iovey

Okay sweet, does it need to be the same brand/skew? I remember DDR3 throwing fits if you tried to mismatch anything

One of my Corsair RAM sticks went bad, I'm currently trying to track down my receipt in my email so I can RMA it, but I think I may have bought it in person and I definitely haven't held onto a physical receipt for that long so I'm losing hope on that front. There shouldn't be any problem if I buy a single stick to replace it, correct?

I removed one stick of RAM and it seems to have cleared up, was able to play Dark Souls for about 3 hours last night. Thanks for your help!

Underclock ram to 2400, booted but crashed. BSOD Memory_Management

Removed GPU and while it did boot on integrated graphics, it still crashed. BSOD- Page Fault in Non-Paged area.

New codes: SYSTEM_PTE_MISUSE, MEMORY_MANAGEMENT

For the past month or so I've been having repeated stability issues in BSODs. Currently it's not booting, with stopcode 0xc000021a. It's had a bunch of different BSOD codes, mostly relating to drivers, memory, and storage, though I don't remember them all. My GPU was changed about a month before this started, and I replaced my boot drive a few days after it started. Everything else is about a year old, bar my power supply, which is about 7 years old, and my other drives which are a litany of ages. I've reinstalled windows 4-5 times, which seems to make it work 90% normally for about a week before it starts creeping back to instability. I've reseated all of my drives, memory, and GPU. I know this is vague, I'll start logging BSOD codes in here to give a better idea of what errors it's throwing, but if anybody knows anything I could try or some troubleshooting things to try that'd be great. System Information: i5 8600K ~1yr old Corsair 8x2 2800mhz ~1yr ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 ~1yr GTX 2060 Super ~2mo Samsung 860 Evo 500gb ~1mo Corsair CX600M ~2013

Ended up rolling back to my previous version of Windows and it worked just fine, the Windows Defender process doesn't even show up on here. A bug that makes Windows Defender spike usage to the point of freezing a 6 core processor is bad enough, but having a bug in that same build that makes it impossible to disable is so much worse.

Additional note: Seems like it does it the worst on OS applications, File Explorer and Task Manager take much longer to launch than my browser does.

I've had Window's Defender disabled since I upgraded to Windows 10, and it's been working fine up until I updated it earlier to try out GamePass. Ever since the update, it takes a good 5 seconds or more from when I click on any given application for it to launch a window, and from watching task manager it appears to be Window's Defender causing the freezes. I've enabled and redisabled it in regedit, I've made sure it's excluded itself, and I've disabled every option in Windows Security. None of it has made any difference. Does anybody have any ideas what might be going on? Is it a known issue with the current build of Windows? (Win10 Pro, Version 1903 Build 18362.145)

Right off the bat, unless 4k is important to you I'd cross the Q535 off the list. I'm not sure that a U series processor will handle 3D software very well, although that depends on what actual software, but it definitely strikes me as a different sort of laptop than the other two. As far as the GU501 and the S63, personally I'd pick the GU501. The two extra cores will likely help a lot in any sort of 3D software and having a 120hz screen on a laptop sounds pretty fuckin sweet.

So I've been using the same copy of Windows for about 6 years now, and I have long since lost the disk for it. I also just got a Macbook Pro for school, and I wanted to know if there was any way for me to use the copy of windows thats on my computer to make a usb installer for boot camp, or if I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new copy of windows.

Didn't think to check the cable, but it works fine with non-quickcharge, and after a reset, so I don't think thats it. I'll check out the Ampere app and try and use a different type c cable if I can get my hands on one!

So I recently got an LG V20, and I've had issues with fast charging the phone. I've tested 2 quick chargers, the stock LG one and the stock Samsung one, and both of them charge INCREDIBLY slowly. Android's prediction is about 7-8 hours from 0%. I can usually fix this by restarting the phone, where itll go down to a much more normal charge speed. The phone charges perfectly fine from my computer and my battery bank, which both do normal charge speeds of about 2-ish hours, so I really don't know what's wrong. UPDATE: Checked Ampere, when its charging slow, its outputting around 60-80 mA, and when it charges fast, its outputting about 900-1000 mA.

So i recently ran into a BOOTMGR is Missing error on my SSD, which is inconvenient but normally somewhat easy to fix. The issue is, that because of the way that Windows 10 upgraded, I don't have a Windows 10 disk. Is there any way to fix it without using Windows Recovery or do I just have to go out and buy a disk?

I'd definitely use the a5000 for a bit if you can, then buy a new camera once you've taken the course and know more about what you want, if that's possible

Theres something about 35mm slr's with nifty fifties on them that I just love I used a Leica II once which was probably my favourite purely on the cool factor though

Alright I might have to get a license, I have a terrible issue with cataloging and organizing

I've been using Photoshop for graphic design and editing for the better part of 2 years now, and now that I've been doing more with photography, is there any major reason to get Lightroom instead of just using Photoshop and Camera RAW?

Long exposures on film is sadly a very hit/miss situation. Film definitely requires that you get a feel for how your camera works and how the light works, so just do some trial and error. Maybe change your exposure slightly between shots, and then compare them once you get them developed, to get a better feel for how much light youre getting.

It's a good image, well framed and good leading lines. I would probably play with contrast and stuff in post a bit, and it's a lil busy, but other than that it's good! (Sony a6000, Canon FD 20mm f/2.8)

It should work for outdoor sports like Football perfectly well. You might have issues using it for indoor sports, although that depends on the size of the stadium.

I think it would have been a lot more interesting if it were a G7 but 200 dollars less without physical controls. Maybe not for pros, but as a slightly more serious point & shoot for beginners. Sadly, seems like its also slightly worse, which means there are better options

The Yi is out for about $500 with a kit lens, which is 200 less than the g7 First Impressions seem to be pretty mediocre, sadly. The interface seems good though

A phone tripod and some lamps will do perfectly fine for a while. Make sure you keep bulb brand and model consistent so your lighting isn't messed up