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Incredibly disappointed with the responses to this thread, jesus fucking christ. Hope this provides some closure to Madison. They deserve it after what they've been through.

I don't have a free extra room to put a loud/hot box in, nor do i have a dozen 20 foot cables to run back to my desk.

I have one rear exhaust and one top exhaust, 3/4 of my P12 Max's were duds with coil whine so thats all for now. The case has a few inches of extra top height though, so I'm not really sure how much top exhausts would effect it other than more quickly getting rid of the relatively minimal CPU heat.

The GPU sits too close to the bottom of the case to add in non slim fans without creating more turbulence than airflow, and I've got the GPU fans going about as fast as they can without it bothering me.

3 120mm/140mm fans should be able to spin slower than 3 90-ishmm fans that are built into the GPU, no?

Built a new system recently with a 7900xt Merc 310 Black, and it turns out that a 300+ watt GPU kicks out a lot more heat than my old 2060 Super (crazy i know). I've tuned and undervolted it to the point that its relatively tamed at about 70-80gpu and 80-90 hotspot without too much fan noise, but it could certainly be better. Seeing as aftermarket Air coolers seem to be basically dead, I thought I'd see what my options are as far as watercooling goes. My build is MicroATX in an AP201, so I have room for a 360mm Rad at the top but I don't think I can fit a reservoir in without also watercooling the CPU, so I'm looking at just block and rad. Alphacool has the Eiswolf AIO which seems like a pretty ideal choice for my needs, but I've never done PC watercooling before so I really don't understand everything I'm looking at/should be looking for, so some direction would be really appreciated. Thanks!

Based on a random reddit post from like 2 years ago, I used MSI’s “Secure Erase+” tool in the bios, and for some bizarre reason it worked. No clue what was stuck in there stopping me from installing windows that the previous dozen wipe+formats couldn’t find, but we made it boys. Thanks for trying to help @Needfuldoer <3

I've been removing the SATA drive during installation and have been reformatting between installs I guess sorta related but if I launch with the SATA drive installed and pick the M.2 Drive's installation in the recovery boot manager, it just power cycles. SATA volume will launch fine.

Actually, it *does* show up in Legacy mode, but it just tells me to insert boot device if i give it priority.

Trying to switch my Windows installation over to my new M.2 drive so I can put my SATA drives back in my old system to give to my girlfriend. Drive is detected perfectly fine by the bios, within windows as a secondary drive, and by the windows media creation tool. Unfortunately, no matter how many times I've tried, MCT "finishes up," the system reboots, and the MCT opens back up with nothing changed except the drive is now partitioned and 10gb's are being used. The BIOS does not allow me to select the M.2 drive in the boot menu at all, in either UEFI or CSM mode. Diskpart lists it as GPT. If I put my SATA drive back in it gives me a boot error, but I can just hit F9 and pick the SATA volume and I can get back into my old install. Im currently making a new bootable USB via Rufus, but any other ideas what it could be? MB: MSI MAG b650m Drive: WD 770 2tb CPU: 7800x3d OS: Win 11 Pro

Cu Current gen Ryzen is very sensitive to CAS latency, I'd look for something more like CL30. DDR5-6000. Nvidia's built in encoders provide a pretty big advantage in streaming, so if you're planning on streaming a lot a 4080 might be better for your needs.

My understanding is that the Torrents cooling performance is pretty much best in class, so I wouldn't worry too much in regards to airflow/cooling. There is a version of the AP201 which has a tempered glass side panel, which would be more solid.

I don't, but to be honest I find a lot of the AMD board partners cooler designs to be ugly and cheap looking for something I'm spending $800 on. It's purely a vanity thing and if it won't work then I'm fine with the look of the reference design, but I figured I'd ask around.

If you're willing to go through the hassle of a mail in rebate, Amazon still has HAF XB Evo's for $139 along with two $40 mail in rebates (Amazon seems to be marketing them as though they can both be used, but I'm not sure.) So potentially either $100 or $60.

So, I'm fairly confident that the card should fit without having to do any creative clearancing, but I'd like some second opinions. Asus rates the max GPU length at 338mm for the AP201, and the XFX Merc 310 is 6mm above that at 344mm. However, going by this build on PCPartPicker from DeadsetRTX, there's a fair amount of extra clearance on this 337mm card even with an SFX power supply mounted in the lowest position. I think if I pick up an SFX power supply and mount it in the top position, especially considering the Merc 310's down-slanted front, there should be room, but I figure I should get some second opinions (especially from owners of this case, especially especially if they'd be willing to do some sanity check measurements for me) before I decide to say fuck it and just buy the case early to do my own measurements. Thanks y'all! (SS in spoiler so it doesn't make thread unreadable.)

I'm excited! Haven't done a completely new PC build since I built my rig originally back in 2013 but it's finally time to retire the ol girl

It looks as though its being corrected with BIOS updates and honestly as long as any issues are covered by warranty I'm willing to accept a little risk. I'm also probably 2~ months out at least from building the PC as it stands, so I've got time to see if the issue persists even with the fixes.

Not really interested in going used. I really hate the front grill on the Torrent. I'm definitely not 100% committed to the V21 but I haven't seen too many small form factor cases that I like a lot more without stepping down to ITX. Really? I figured 200w over estimated would be fine enough, but no big deal to go up to something more powerful I guess. I've built in way worse, trust me. That being said I'm not particularly taken by any cases atm honestly. One of the only things I'm absolutely 1000% sure of right now is that I'm going AMD. 7800x3d fits, I've got a ton of headroom left in the build I've posted and I'm even willing to go a little over $2000 if its actually worth it.

Liquid cooler is more of a placeholder than anything. From all the testing I've seen the difference between the 7700 and 7700x is almost entirely negligible, especially in the things I'd be using it for.

Original parts list if interested ig: Updated parts list from feedback: PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YDRhVw CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($449.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($179.99 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming OC Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card ($799.99 @ Newegg) Case: Asus Prime AP201 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Phanteks Revolt Pro 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1898.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-05 11:55 EDT-0400 Budget (including currency): 1500-2000 USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, light video work, 1440p Reasoning Saving up to finally do a full system refresh, coming from a 2060 Super/8600k system. Memory, SSD, and Power Supply are all sorta placeholders of generally what im looking for, so go ahead and give recommendations for those if you have them. Want to go AM5/DDR5 for the upgrade path Looking at the 7700 non-X for the core count (I pretty regularly max out my 6c/6t 8600k) and the lower TDP (I live in FL its too damn hot). Also considering the 7600x since its $70~ cheaper and seems relatively performance equal. Looking at the 4070ti for 1440p performance + TDP. Bouncing between it and the 7900xt (4070ti for better Raytracing and DLSS stuff, 7900xt for more VRAM and generally better rasterization performance.) Going to buy late in hopes that the sales issues of the 4070 will push Nvidia to institute some price drops. CPU Cooler will be the last thing I buy, stock AMD cooler should hold up for thermals so I'm gonna see how noise performance is before I buy an aftermarket cooler. If I do I'm looking at 120mm AIO's. Core V21 because I've always liked smaller systems and want to go Micro ATX this time around. Looking at other cases as well of course. Thanks in advance for the help!

I understand that that's the model, but how much more would it actually have to cost to keep data private? Double? Triple? I guess you get to double dip if you're only *pretending* to care about privacy but it feels like *someone* should at least have tried to run this business without data selling by now.

I'm trying to research genetic testing companies since me and my girlfriend are interested in learning more about our genetic history, but frankly I'm getting really annoyed at getting 2 pages down a promising looking companies website before finding the paragraph where they legally have to admit that they're still selling your data, just that they swear it's super private and only for research. Preferably I don't even want them to store my data any longer than it takes them to put my test results into a readable format and send it to me on a flash drive, but I'll settle for just actually not going to sell my data. Are there any companies that are actually decent, or am I going to continuously hit dead ends here?

There are foam kits for the ID80. You can hear a sound test here. I wouldn't count that out of the running just yet.

The Keychron K4 and Royal Kludge RK100 are the only boards I'm aware of that meets all of your needs, and they're both compact layouts. There's not really much of a market for full size wireless keyboards, and even in general enthusiasts have been going toward smaller and smaller layouts.

So I've owned an MSI monitor for about a year now, and for the past week or so it's been having little lines flickering on it. It started doing it pretty randomly, and I've already gone through all the diagnosis things I can think of to fix it and nothings worked, so I think I'm going to RMA it. The problem is, a few months back it got a small chip in the outer plastic screen from a USB cable (monitor was laid on my bed while I was cleaning my desk off to move back home, tossed some cables onto my bed not thinking anything of it) and I kinda don't want to go through all the hassle of packaging and sending my monitor and spending the shipping money just to find out that MSI is one of those companies that will come up with any excuse possible to deny RMA, so I figure I'll ask for people's experiences here.