L. Kenter
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Everything posted by L. Kenter
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Hi all, I just got a balanced cable for my iBasso SR2's only to realize after receiving my order, that this cable has a 4.4mm plug. I'm using an EVGA Nu Audio (non pro) which has Line Out over RCA and a single 6.35mm Headphone jack. As far as I could find the EVGA Nu Audio should have a balanced output but after learning some more about balanced sound I'm starting to doubt it. So my questions are; does my sound card actually have balanced output or not? And if it does, what would be the best way to hook up a 4.4mm cable to this card? Would something like this DD HiFi DJ65B work, would the output still be balanced? And if it doesn't, is it worth to get an external DAC with a balanced output and hook it up to the sound card?
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Thanks for the replies! I will need about 3 meters max to route it nicely and it will remain plugged in pretty much permanently. So I'm not gonna cheap out but good to know there is really no point to buying an expensive cable, at least for my use case.
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Recently I got a great deal on used iBasso SR2 headphones, condition as new and everything included, except the 3,5 - 6,35mm jack adaptor. The seller said he didn't have it anymore either. This meant it didn't fit in my Asus Essence STX ii, so I used another set of headphone cables I had lying around. I hit iBasso up and they sold the original adaptor separately for a very fair price, and today it finally arrived, so now I can use my headphones with it's original cable. The sound was amazing before but I swear its even better now. However, only today did I notice the original cable is rather short and doesn't comfortably fit around/underneath my desk to the back of my PC. Long story short, I'm looking for a 6,35mm extension cable and I'm wondering how much the quality of this extension cable matters. Any recommendations on brand, pricepoint, do I need a balanced cable or not, does gold plating really matter, etc? Unfortunately iBasso themselves don't sell this type of cable.
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Hi everyone, I just got my new mouse deliverd, an Alienware Elite Gaming Mouse AW959. It comes with 4 magnetic side attachments, two flat ones (left one with 2 side buttons) and 2 bigger ones with thumb and pinky support (left one with 4 side buttons). The side piece with 2 buttons functions as you'd expect, they are used for forwards and backwards. However, the one with 4 side buttons has them programmed as literally 1-4. When I press them in a text field I get the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4. I'd like the top two to be backwards and forwards, as on every mouse ever, and macro the other two for something else. This doesn't seem to be possible through software (Alienware Command Center). Does anyone know how to change this? Thanks in advance!
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Hi everyone, So since updating my iPhone X to iOS 14 both my Chromecast 2nd gen (on 2,4G) and my Chromecast Ultra (on ethernet) are not being seen by any app as long as my phone is on 5G WiFi. They both pop up when I switch to 2.4G on my phone. However, having my phone on 5G, the 2nd gen on 2.4G and the Ultra on ethernet has always worked flawlessly. I've give permission to the Google Home app and all other streaming apps to use my local network, I've reset both Chromecasts entirely and reconnected them to the network, I've reset all network settings on my phone but nothing works. Meanwhile, my other devices (Asus laptop, MacBook Pro 2015, windows desktop) can cast to both Chromecasts from 2.4G, 5G and ethernet no problem. In the end I am able to cast but I don't really feel like switching back and forth between 2.4G and 5G every time I want to cast something. Does anyone have any idea how to solve this? Thanks in advance
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So it may be time to make the switch to AMD as well... Thank you so much for your help!
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Alright, so does that also mean that I could use the Hyper card with 4 drives if I only use one slot on the motherboard or does it only work with 2 drives max because of the non-HEDT motherboard
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So it will also work with Z490 and probably anything coming up from both Intel and AMD? And how would it work if for example I got a non-HEDT mobo with 3 M.2 slots, fill all those up, and have a discrete GPU? Would I still be able to use two more drives using the hyper card?
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Hi everyone, I recently got a great deal on an Asus M.2 X16 V2 card only to realize my 7700K/Z270 combo isn't supported as I need PCIE Bifurcation. Asus' own website lists a couple of compatible motherboards but I believe those are only the ones available during the launch of this expansion card. There is a little table all the way down on Z490 but I don't really understand that one... So is it safe to assume anything newer since then and/or anything with PCIE bifurcation will support this Hyper card? I really couldn't find anything else about compatibility with newer motherboards. Thanks in advance!
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I have to admit that I completely forgot about the Win + G thing, that does make it a lot easier. However, I'm just wondering if there isn't any physical switch thing that's just an extension of the software part. Like some speaker sets have the 'remote' volume knob that just changes the system volume, not the actual level of the speakers itself. Anyway, thanks for the Win+G suggestion! No more alt-tabbing back and forth to change outputs for me
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Hi everyone, My current audio setup for my PC is a HyperX Cloud II (with the USB controller thingy) and Logitech Z623 speakers and I'm looking for a dedicated switch to easily select one or the other as output. I'm looking for a switch that can switch between USB audio output and regular 3.5mm audio out. After a lot of Googling the only thing I found that comes close is the M-Audio AIR|HUB, which looks to be just a regular Line Out amp with a USB hub. Does anyone know of a USB/Line out switch or am I out of luck here? Thanks in advance
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My GPU and NH-D15 are definitely audible while gaming but it's a different kind of sound. I don't have any HDD's or optical drives. When I stop the front two redux fans with my hand it becomes a lot quieter, which makes me think there may be something wrong with these fans. I also have the "silent" fan profile enabled in the Asus AI Suite software and didn't change any fan settings in the BIOS. The models I have are 3-pin and not PWM, could that have something to do with it? Aren't PWM fans generally more quiet?
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Hi everyone, At the moment I'm not very satisfied with the noise levels of my PC. I got a NH-D15 on my 7700K and three NF-P14s Redux 900, two in the front and one in the back. The case I'm using is a Be Quiet Pure Base 500 Window. The redux fans seem kinda loud when gaming and I'm looking for something more quiet. While looking into this subject I was wondering if adding two more fans at the top of my case would help with noise levels or make it worse. So my questions are: - Adding top fans, good or bad idea? - NF-P14s Redux 900, should they be this loud? Are there quieter options? I hope someone has some first-hand experience and can help me out, since all these fan tests and comparisons online are really inconsistent.
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Sorry for the late reply! As I mentioned in the post I tried multiple PSUs and GPUs, and tried those parts on different systems too. The only constant factor in the test scenario is the CPU. The intensity and frequency of the whine does change with different motherboard so there's still a possibility that I'm just really unlucky and all three motherboards have severe coil whine. I'm 100% sure my PSU doesn't produce any coil wine and my GPU only in light games with upcapped framerate (like in the thousands). In the mean time I got so fed up with the issue that I ordered an ROG Maximus IX Apex Z270, hoping that this high-end board will put an end to the coil whine.
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Hi everyone, Over the past couple of weeks I've basically upgraded my entire PC except for the OS SSD and CPU. And now its making some terrible coil whine. It happened first when I upgraded my Asus Z170K to an ROG Strix Z270H Gaming to be able to use two M.2 SSDs. I got myself another SSD and all the other hardware including my 7700K were unchanged, then after reassembly I noticed the coil whine first. So naturally I started looking for the problem, steadily removing and/or swapping out parts to see what was producing the coil whine. After a lot of testing I figured it had to be the motherboard so I applied it for a refund and got another one, an MSI Z270 Pro Carbon Gaming. I just put everything together with the new motherboard and.... still coil whine. As a final test I put everything back on my Z170K aaaaaand still coil whine. So either I got two motherboards with horrible coil whine and somehow my previous motherboard which never had any issues suddenly developed coil whine too, or my CPU is producing the noise somehow. Is it possible for a CPU to make a whining scratchy noise or am I really unlucky with the two new motherboards and my old one developing the same issue for no apparent reason? And if it is the CPU, is there any way to fix it? Specs and tested parts: - i7 7700k with NH-D15 (fans tested with and without Y splitter) - MSI Z270 Pro Carbon Gaming (used for testing: Asus Z170K and Strix Z270H Gaming) - Hyperx Fury 2x8gb 3466Mhz (used HyperX Fury 2x8GB 2133Mhz before, both kits tested in every combination and slot) - Gigabyte RTX 2080 Gaming OC White (used for testing: MSI GT620, GT710, Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1070 and EVGA RTX 2070S Black) - Samsung 960 Evo 250GB + Kingston A1000 960GB (used for testing: Crucial P1 1TB, Sandisk 120GB SATA SSD, every slot and combination) - Corsair HX1200i (used for testing: Corsair TX550M V2, Corsair VS350) Assuming all the new parts worked as they should I already sold some of my old parts so I can't put everything back together exactly as it was when I had no coil whine issues.
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Terrible coil whine from motherboard
L. Kenter replied to L. Kenter's topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I was planning on doing that anyway but I'm afraid it won't help much against the high-pitched whine so I guess I'll have to replace it... Thanks for the reply! -
Hi everyone, Over the past few weeks I have been steadily upgrading my rig with mostly silence in mind, but of course also performance. I upgraded my GPU, RAM, motherboard, PSU and swapped out my SSHD for an M.2 NVME. And now my PC makes this horrible coil whine. Current components: - 7700k stock with NH-D15 - ROG Strix Z270H Gaming - 2x8GB HyperX Fury 3466Mhz - MSI GT710 (temporary backup card till my RTX 2080 arrives) - Unbranded USB C PCIE expansion card - Samsung 960 Evo 250GB + Kingston A1000 960GB - Corsair HX1200i - PowerMac G5 modded case with a couple of Noctua Redux fans After a lot of research and troubleshooting I manged to isolate the problem to the motherboard. I tried: - Messing around with the BIOS C-state settings and other power saving features - Read that a long stress-test could remove coil whine so did that too - Different power supplies - Different graphics cards (including none) - Different motherboards - Different RAM - Different storage Only when I tried my CPU in my old Asus Z170K motherboard the coil whine was almost gone. Still slightly audible but probably never noticed it before since it's always been in a case. However, with this new motherboard the coil whine is clearly audible even when inside the case. The only constant factor in this whole test scenario is the CPU, which can't possibly be the source since it doesn't have any coils, right? Does anyone have any tips or tricks to remove or at least reduce this obnoxious noise or should I just ask for a refund and get another motherboard? Thanks!
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Alright, so a used, high-end 1080ti model for less money would be a better option than a cheap 2070S. I'm still afraid on missing out on cool RTX stuff in the future, but since the performance impact is so insane I'll probably never use it anyway. Maybe when RTX does become an actual valid option to turn on, I'll get the RTX 40-something.
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I did some digging about the 2070S models too, and the cheap custom cards like the MSI Ventus perform worse than the Founders Edition while also being hotter and noisier. And the better custom cards are priced much higher than the FE.
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Took a look at those too but for some reason there is about a €200 price difference between the cheapest 2070S and 2080(S). I assumed because of the new Supers, the regular versions had to go and would get a discount, but nope, they just priced the Super models higher.
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Hi everyone, With the release of the 2070 Super I am considering upgrading to be able to get the most out of my 1440p 144hz monitor. I am currently in doubt between getting a 2070 Super or a used 1080 ti, since their used prices are quite attractive and the 2070 Super (not to mention the 2080 (Super)) prices are ridiculously inflated where I live. A used 1080 ti is about half to two-thirds of the price of a new 2070 Super in my country. So, what are your thoughts about about both cards? What are the benefits of one over the other?
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I did notice some websites still sell new ones, but not in the Netherlands... Also, for that kind of money I'd rather get a 2080ti. I'm aiming around €500.
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Could it have anything to do with my RAM? I have 16GB now which should be plenty but it runs at 2133mhz. I saw some tests done with a 7700K with different memory speeds where both FPS and frame consistency improved quite a lot with higher clocked RAM. Others say ram speed doesn’t matter at all with Intel CPUs.
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Most games like E-sports titles etc. run fine on max at 1440p, but newer and more demanding games don't run so great. Mosty notably Monster Hunter World, with all setting set to medium/low/completely off it barely reaches 60FPS. Resolution makes almost zero difference in FPS. Same for some other more recent titles. So I figured its time for a GPU upgrade. Waiting for Navi seems like a good idea indeed.
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Waiting for Navi seems like a solid plan, totally forgot about that. About the G-Sync not working properly; my monitor isn't officially supported (Samsung LC32HG70QQU). When I turn it on most games run like they should but I'm not really noticing any increase in smoothness or fps stability. And with some games the brightness flickers very slightly during some specific moments, which isn't really that much of an issue but its not giving me extra smoothness either. Thanks for the suggestions!
