Selven

Thanks, when you mentioned reseating the chip or replacing it, I was thinking of soldering in my head, but yeah if its the same as yours it looks pretty easy, my laptop is probably the cheapest thing asus has ever put out not a strix though. I'll take a look sometime tomorrow, but that deff sounds right, this thing always runs hot even just watching a stream.

You had this issue with an asus laptop before? I think I'm still in warranty so I'll probably send it in after the new year if so.

Hello everyone, currently staying at my parents place for the holidays, and my laptop has this wierd internet issue going on. The internet connects no problem, but every minute or so I stop receiving any data for 20-30 seconds. I don't lose connection to the router/modem, I just stop receiving data, attached is a screenshot of my task manager which I think shows the problem better than I can describe. I am using a 64 bit windows 10 asus laptop I have checked for drivers, tried an older driver and used the asus wifi driver repair tool (kinda suspicious this exists) The built in asus software isn't showing any issues or outdated bios It is an i5-11357G integrated iris xe graphics intel ssd 16gb RAM My parents have xfinity, no other devices are having this problem and I have never seen this at home. I have restarted the modem and laptop multiple times. I ran flush dns, and I have set my ipv4 dns to googles 8's. I have never seen something like this, nor could I find much info from googling. I am not great with network stuff, so if you need more info please let me know. Thanks for the help.

Hey, I have a friend getting a new SSD, 1tb, I've checked the tier list and scouted it down to 2 options. My first thought was just grab the cheapest one with any cache, which would be the 970 evo at $100, I'm not super versed in comparing ssd's, I just remember always being told cache is a good thing back in the day, I'm not sure how well it holds up today. It is in the same B tier though as the PNY XLR8 CS3030 for only $75. For a budget end pc, i5-12400 and 6650xt with 16gb ram, is there going to be any noticeable difference for a light user going with the 970 EVO and its cache?

Its a brand new install of the firmware from their website and their logitech options tool after the fresh windows. Their software detects the correct mouse and displays its battery, just does not work in windows.

A friend of mine is having problems with a pc I gave him a while back where his wireless logitech M510 mouse does not work with windows. It worked in the bios but not windows, he chose the nuclear option and reinstalled windows on the pc but the problem has persisted with a fresh install. In the device manager there is no "mice or other pointing devices" section, and there is no I2C HID Device in the HID section as well. In msinfo under inputs the pointing devices section is just empty. I went to MSI's website and installed chipset drivers as well as logitechs software which detects the mouse and its battery but still the mouse did not work. I am helping him remotely and have no access to screenshots or anything. It is an i5 4960 in an MSI z97 pcmate motherboard on windows10.

We tried switching it into a different port on a different set of sata plugs, that didn't work either, we were able to do a bios update, but that didn't seem to fix anything either.

My friend is upgrading his pc and is having problems booting his system to windows. He upgraded to an i5 10600k with an MSI MEG Z490 UNIFY motherboard and a 2x16 set of corsair ram (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MGwqht). These are his old specs, including the Samsung 850 evo that we are having problems booting to https://pcpartpicker.com/list/t4cxbj. The system is in bios and displays the ssd as a storage device, but it is not in the boot priority list. It is the only drive plugged in but still does not show up the boot priority.

That worked for me, thank you

I have removed the hard drive from her laptop and have it connected to my desktop via sata, I have disabled it in my bios boot but it still does not let me boot into windows.

My mother's laptop (windows 10) has had an issue booting up the last couple days, the system does the diagnosing issues windows thing for about 5 minutes, than says there was a problem detected and brings up the windows repair tool. I tried going through the repair and safe boot options with no success, so today I am trying to get some of the data off the hard drive for her. However when I plug the hard drive into my system (windows 10) via sata, I get my asus splash screen than a SMART failure prediction for the hard drive. I can only go into the bios. I have disabled her hard drive from my boot devices but it still does not allow me to boot to windows with the drive connected. Is there any way to get into windows to get the data off the hard drive.

Just finished this https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CPZytg build for my brother to play games on his samsung MU6300 tv. I used an old monitor (1650 x 1050)to set up the pc and installed drivers for the motherboard, graphics card and wifi card successfully, the pc boots and works fine, however it will not connect to his tv unless I first start it with the old monitor first than switch to the tv while the pc is on, but if the pc turns off, it will not reconnect to the tv. The samsung tv shows it as not powered on in the source selection screen. I'm using an hdmi cable out of the graphics card to the tv which only has hdmi inputs, and I tried disconnecting the graphics card and using the mobo output with the same results. Windows 10 64 bit.

So say I throw a hyper 212 on it with 3 120 corsair af fans, could i get a decent enough OC to make the better RAM worth?

This is an interesting option, is it still worth it to get faster ram with ryzen, say 3000 vs 2400 for only 20 cents more per gig?