AkiraDaarkst

I'll assume you know to check prices on Toppreise and Ricardo (where there are people selling used gear). Digitec sells camera gear. Sometimes I buy stuff from the Swiss German side of the country because prices can be a bit lower. Check this store: https://www.lbag.ch and this store: http://www.profotshop.ch and this store: https://www.pc-ostschweiz.ch Migros-Electronics can sometimes have low prices Also check out camera shops (not general electronic shops like Interdiscount or Media Markt) where they have used gear displayed on their storefront. If you're ever in Geneva check out Photo Verdaine.

Not for a given recording setting, the camera records at lower bit rates if you film lower resolutions.

Where do you live in Switzerland? I know a few places to get good deals and good second hand gear.

100 mbps is quite a lot, getting an extra 20-60mbps wouldn't make a significant impact at all. All it offers is h.264 in MP4 and AVCHD containers with Interframe compression that doesn't require much more data. Besides, the G7 doesn't have V-Log, so unless you need it for serious color grading there's no point in asking for higher bit rates.

Theoretically any camera capable of outputting a video via HDMI or SDI can be used for live streaming... you simply need a capture card to get the video signal to the live streaming device. For your budget of $300-500, there are handheld camcorders and entry level DSLR cameras available.

There are cheaper cameras that can capture RAW video, like the $1000 Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera. Some video cameras are capable of capturing RAW video internally (either in proprietary formats like what RED uses or Cinema DNG like BlackMagic) while others require an external capture device capable of recording RAW (like Atomos Shogun/Ninja devices or Odyssey 7Q+). The Sony FS5 for example is capable of sending a RAW video signal via SDI to an external recorder like the Atomos Shogun Flame and they are saved as Cinema DNG, whilst my FS7 requires an extension unit to be attached to the camera first. I'm assuming the OP saw videos like the following on Youtube and thought the titled implied the G7 is capable of recording RAW. The person who titled the video did so incorrectly, it should rather be something like ungraded vs graded footage.

How do you plan to get RAW video out of the G7?

Refresh the page, I misread your post and thought you wanted to do video.

No technology is truly future proof, but if you don’t want to spend money on an new camera system every year or so often, or buy something and only later think it may have been a mistake, my suggestion is to do some more research and figure out how you want to do something. Since you don’t want to focus on video, almost any DSLR or MILC on the market is pretty good. Some are better than others in their own ways, but they can also cost a lot more.

Assuming that there is nothing mechanically or electronically damaged with the camera and lens, such as non-functioniog focus motor, or you've somehow turned off AF and doesn't realize it... If you want to figure out what sort of focusing issues the camera has, print out a test chart like this (or similar you can find on Google). There are also online guides/tutorials on testing focus, or figuring out whether your camera/lens has a back/front focusing issue. Can't judge anything from your photos other than the fact that there is a focusing issue. Unfortunately from what I can read about the Canon 500D, it doesn't have a user adjustable focus adjustment option in the menu. Sucks. Follow the online guides on how to place the test chart and how to place the camera. Usually you need to plate the chart around a 45 degree angle and the camera on a fixed distance from the chart on a tripod so that it doesn't change between different test shots. When you do the test, set the camera to: 1. Single focus point (best is to use the center point) 2. Shutter release only on focus acquired mode (One Shot AF Mode) 3. Make sure the AF system is enabled of course, check both lens and camera body switches that turn on/off AF. There may not be anything electronically or mechanically wrong with your camera or lens other than the fact that the AF calibration is way off. Some low end lenses, and even high end ones, can have this issue even when purchased brand new. Unfortunately I guess your camera body is pretty low end enough that Canon decided not to include a option in the menu to adjust focusing issues. Nor could I find out whether there are mechanical micro focus adjustment screws in the camera body, usually next to the reflex mirror in the mirror chamber. Probably the 500D doesn't have them either. Once you've done the tests, contact Canon and ask them if they can recalibrate the AF system for free. If you have to pay, ask how much because it may as well be more cost affective to buy a new lens and when you do, take the camera with you to test the lens to make sure any focusing issues it has is minimal. An example of a guide on focus testing

You can't get it with just one effect. Look online for some guidance, there are tutorials and people explaining how they do things.

Sigma has improved quality over the past few years, not that they were really bad. They even had some older lenses that outperformed Canon and Nikon stuff.

The Free version has certain limits, like slower or reduced capabilities of noise reduction or usage of multi core CPUs and multi-GPU setups. They make money off their hardware, software isn't their main game.

Interviews, conferences, corporate, commercials, documentaries, etc. Premiere and Adobe Suite, DaVinci Resolve, Autodesk Flame.

Yes, but unless you really need one version or the other don't use it. Waste of space on the memory card.

By the way, Nikon camera manuals can be downloaded from their website and you don’t have to buy the books from Amazon. I only placed those links so you know what they look like. There may be times when you may not have time to edit the photo or you don’t want to. But again, I’m saying it’s a choice you can make.

I forgot to also mention, you need to understand when you should use M, P, A, S modes on your camera. Manual, Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, because these different modes can serve different purposes. As for shooting RAW, there may be some instances where you don't want to deal with processing the image after shooting, in which case JPEG might be a good choice. You have to learn when and where to make these choices.

First of all, this is absolutely wrong. @Hiya! You DO NOT always need to shoot in RAW. And you do not have to shoot in Manual mode. What you need to learn: Understand how the relationships between ISO, Aperture/Iris and Shutter speeds work Understand how different focal lengths and aperture sizes affect the image Understand what each button on the camera does (essentially read the camera manual) and how to change settings to do certain things on the camera You can start learning by reading a book like Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514786536&sr=8-1&keywords=understanding+exposure Or Michael Freeman's book titled The Photographer's Eye https://www.amazon.com/Photographers-Eye-Composition-Digital-Photographs-ebook/dp/B072XD976Y/ref=mt_kindle?_encoding=UTF8&me= Because you only have a budget of $250, and since you have a Nikon camera, you have a few options for flash units: Nikon SB-500 (roughly $250) or SB-300 (roughly $150) or other third party options that are Nikon compatible. I'm not sure if $250 is enough to buy both a flash unit and a lens, you will have to shop around or look in second hand shops. But before getting another lens, develop an understanding of what different lenses help you achieve. And one more advice: IGNORE EVERY COMMENT POSTED ABOVE, other than the one about International Standards Organization. ISO in camera refers to Film Speed, but it is referred to as ISO because the current system for determining Film Speed is published by the international organization. There have been different systems for Film Speed before the current ISO system came along. I wouldn't even recommend Tony Northtrup if you want to be a serious photographer.

You basically need a power inverter to convert DC to AC, and of course the electrical setup needs to output the correct stabilized voltage. In some developing countries, I've seen people use huge acid batteries with inverters to power their homes/appliances because the country/city/village doesn't have reliable electrical grid systems. When I travel, I even have a small inverter in the car that uses the car's battery (via the cigarette lighter port) to power my cameras and other devices.

Depends on the software and the kind of editing she wants to do. Simple cuts and rendering, will be Ok. But more serious stuff and there will be performance issues but still workable if she is patient.

Because those high frame rate cameras record all the extra frames that capture the details for high end slow motion work.

Why don’t you just do a test with the device and see which recording format and which output format works together.

A good camcorder? 1080p handheld camcorders are pretty decent and can be found cheaply.

Tip: when ever you go to buy a lens, take a flashlight (or use the lamp from your phone). Shine the light through the lens and check if there exists any big particles of dust (especially with second hand lenses) or other things that may affect the performance of the optics. But don't be too paranoid if you do see some dust particles in a brand new lens, most lenses are not assembled in high grade clean rooms. Just make sure there aren't any big chunks of particles/dust or residue that could noticeably affect the image. PS: unless you bought the lens second hand, if you purchased it brand new this sort of "defect" should be covered under warranty (depends on the duration of warranty Nikon offers in your region). Even if it's out of warranty, it MAYBE (a big maybe) cheaper than buying a new one to get it serviced. But NPS can sometimes charge insane prices...

I’m not sure if there is something wrong with your camera but I have experienced similar effects due to: 1. cheap UV filters or any other filters you have in front 2. some sort of condensation or oil residue on/inside lenses or sensor that may require cleaning and they become more noticeable on longer exposure shots