Gali

well the e3-1220 v6 is severely outdated, keep in mind that its basically a i5-7500/i3-8100 and i3-8100 has ECC support, and if you aren't going to use ECC, and IPMI is useless on such a small scale, then why go for server grade hardware?

PCPartPicker Part List: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/DY28pG
CPU: Intel - Xeon E3-1220 V6 3 GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($278.99 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 (2018) 57.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($74.99 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: ASRock - C236 WSI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($282.70 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: G.Skill - NT Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($44.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Kingston - A400 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($26.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Seagate - IronWolf 4 TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($157.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - IronWolf 4 TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($157.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - IronWolf 4 TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($157.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - IronWolf 4 TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($157.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - IronWolf 4 TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($157.50 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Video Card  ($293.14 @ Amazon Canada)
Case: BitFenix - Prodigy (White) Mini ITX Tower Case  ($154.25 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Power Supply: Antec - EarthWatts Green 380 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($112.33 @ Amazon Canada)
 
This is the one I did a while back. Sits in a closet doing server things

Hi
 
I’m not sure what setup you are using or what your goals is, so It’s hard to recommend something to fit in with your needs;

For a really small footprint, have a look at SQLite. It can be used to almost anywhere web, desktop and app’s.

MySQL is mainly for Web. It’s a great DB and there are tons of online guides. Check out WAMP for windows, LAMP of Linux or MAMP for Mac. Then have a look at PHP / HTML to use as an interface to pull and push the SQL.

Microsoft have MS SQL so you could look a Visual Studio (Visual Studio will also work with almost all SQL Databases).

To make your life easier then pick a platform to start with (web, desktop or app) then pick a programming language or interface to use to send and receive the SQL.

For me, I would look at VB.net (or C++ / C# ) with Visual Studio and either MS SQL or SQLite.

At the end of the day it’s all SQL


Andy

Cover yourself in butter and slide about the house listening to Spice Girls playing backwards.
 
Smile at all the cameras as you slither past.
 
 

And this 
https://mobile.twitter.com/MisterMetokur/status/822509772813406208

That's one of the concepts I dug up.

I wonder if he's talking about data coupling ... creating an argument to pass data back and forth. I'll go pester the programmers. Check with OP too to get more specifics.
 
Thanks Lurick -  much appreciated.

Yeah, no, I don't think it would go over like that.  If there's one thing the internet as a whole is known for, it's hating companies with an undying passion.

If i were them i wouldnt warn them about tracking. Let them use it then knock on their door:

We may not all like Razer as a company, but theft of even a proof of concept is wrong. Until we have some kind of news on who did it, or the hopefully possibility that is was simply misplaced (though highly doubtful at this point), then it's best to not even joke about Linus or Paul or Jason or any other known and good-natured tech reporter stealing it.

Sure, Linus' sense of humor is omnipresent with his reviews and coverage of new tech, but these are serious allegations from Razer. Let's keep our guys (and gals) out of the path of the finger point.
 

Well the razor part was meant as a joke, I was actually thinking hotel/convention centre staff sort of inside job.  Probably should have spelled out that much, so; sorry about that.

That's quite the tin-foil idea. Entertaining the idea that it IS 'inside', if it ever came out that the company did this as a PR stunt, that would look extremely poor on the company. I doubt they would risk such self-defamation. The tech field has high stakes, and a lot of these companies, including Razer, are interested in the long run. To sabotage their own company for such a short-lived limelight is quite a ridiculous idea.
 
Anything is possible, though, so we'll have to see.

We may not all like Razer as a company, but theft of even a proof of concept is wrong. Until we have some kind of news on who did it, or the hopefully possibility that is was simply misplaced (though highly doubtful at this point), then it's best to not even joke about Linus or Paul or Jason or any other known and good-natured tech reporter stealing it.

Sure, Linus' sense of humor is omnipresent with his reviews and coverage of new tech, but these are serious allegations from Razer. Let's keep our guys (and gals) out of the path of the finger point.
 

Vizio Sound bars (any of them) are amazing. Every single one I have tested or tried, are very impressive. I just bought the 29" version for my parents, and am extremely impressed. It gets loud, more than 50% is uncomfortably loud. The bass is very good, even without a subwoofer. It sounds amazing - none of this crap "sounds like a speaker in a plastic tube" sound. More like the "if I did not already have a 5.1 system at home, I would buy this", sound.
 
In speaking with a BestBuy guy a few weeks ago when I got the 29" he actually was trying to convince me to get the $50 cheaper vizio, instead of a samsung unit I was looking at. If anything is a reason to buy, having a sales person tell you to spend $50 less than what you were planning on is a good reason. 
 
Whichever one you get, get one that has an output for a subwoofer. You can get cheap used subwoofers at second-hand stores (goodwill, etc) and use them to improve the bass if it doesn't include a subwoofer.
 
Here are some Vizio Units that are in the sub $200 price. 
$79 - 29" + Subwoofer Output: SB2920-C6 (same speakers as the 38", just, shorter physical size).
$99 - 38" + Subwoofer Output: SB3820-C6 (Same speakers as the 29")
$140 - 38" + Wireless Subwoofer: SB3821-C6 (Same speakers again, just, includes a wireless Subwoofer)
$199 - 38" + 3.0 channels, Subwoofer Output, HDMI, and Google Cast Built-in: SB3830-D0 (This is for people like me, who cannot stand anything without a dedicated center channel).

Why buy when your body is conveniently full of blood!?

OK, there's your problem then, you need to inject drivers into the windows 7 installation, you'll have a bit of work to do here... you need to create a windows 7 installation disk/usb with usb3 drivers injected  http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/ASUS_EZ_Installer_Win7.zip?_ga=1.236429633.114281723.1482528015
 
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE/HelpDesk_Download/
 
I've seen loads of people fall into this problem with z170 boards, IMO it's easier to just use windows 10, but if you're insisting on using windows 7 I've linked you the tool above, and reference on asus website.

Oreo.

It's always a possibility that K9s (and other domesticated pets) sense ailments in us - but don't put too much stock in this particular case. Feet are the first things canines smell with hoomans they don't know because they're the lowest point to the ground. Depending on the dog, they might smell you for months and beyond, just because it's a 'new' scent to their environment. Sure, you two can be bros, that doesn't mean the pooch won't smell you anyways. If you're concerned it is health-related, I would use an antifungal spray in your work shoes/boots anyways ... it's a good habit to get into to prevent trench foot (Kidding - I mean athlete's foot/ fungi).

This kinda ties back to my post about overspending on hardware. Again, if you have the funds then by all means go for it--it just personally urks me when someone would rather throw money away into synthetic benchmarks when real world performance doesn't reflect on money spent. 

10/10 will use it again, thanks

Speaking from experience, just remember that you're probably not going to want to replace all that cabling once you're done. So it pays to go a little bit overkill. IMO the cost gap between Cat5e and Cat6 is so small that you're better off going with Cat6. And unless you're doing a run through some extreme conditions (outside, alongside power etc) you don't need anything fancy. But wallplates do matter because that's the bit you will interact with, wear out and see.
 
In terms of the number of runs? Make sure you do runs to all of the places you think you'll need it. A good rule of thumb is to do one to every bedroom and every place you're likely to sit a TV or computer. Then as others have said it's not a bad idea to do two runs. Especially behind TVs and so on. Sure you can always put a switch there and most of the time that'll be fine. But you might want those two cables doing different things. For example you might want one doing PoE at 1Gbps and the other one a standard 10Gbps. There are ways to do most things it with just one cable but having options isn't a bad idea. 
 
The last thing, look at your WiFi at the same time. Consider getting some nicer access points along the lines of Ubiquiti or something. Do some runs to places that make sense to those at the same time. Because once again you're not going to want to do that once you've got it setup. And usually where you want to run network cables and where the best spot for an access point are don't overlap. Especially if you have a double-brick house and made a point of running all the cables through external walls.

Yah, basically they run fiber to a box outside near your power and other utilities and then from there they run a copper CAT5e cable to your line and couple the two together.
 
Then you'll be just fine, I have a couple 150 foot runs with no signal loss at all. Crimping your own cables is pretty easy to do and allows you to have custom length runs which cuts down on cost in the end. I think in total I did 20 runs throughout the house and wall plates plus jacks cost a total of like $50, mostly because I did CAT6 cable, the Cat5e stuff is a little cheaper. I used maybe 500 feet all said and done of cable to do all 20 connections.

One other tip I can give you, since you're in NC, like me, if you even think Google fiber or ATT Fiber might come to your house at some point, run an extra line into a crawl space or just down the wall near where your other utilities come into the house, it will save you loads of time and trouble in the future

Maximum length for CAT5e and Cat6 is roughly 100meters so unless you have a huge house and need to run from end A to end B you shouldn't have much to worry about there. You can get 1000 feet for around $100 and make all the cables yourself and have it look really nice. As someone who's done it before I would suggest getting a smartbox to have all the cables co-locate into or at least a nice 24 to 48 port patch panel you can screw into the wall

my opinion on the whole cat5e/cat6 thing is you're better off getting a high quality cat5e, than pay the same amount of money for a standard cat6. (and still, in a house you dont need a high quality cat5e, any ol' cat5e cable will do.)
 
beyond that, i'm gonna give you this piece of advice: everywhere you're running cables to, run two of them, your future self will thank your present self for doing so.