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About Phate.exe

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  • CPU
    Phenom II X6 1090T BE (4GHz #yolo)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair XMS DDR3-1333
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    Powercolor RX 470 Red Devil 4gb
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    Overstuffed, hacked up Rosewill Abomination
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    2x500gb Seagate Barracude, 1x3TB Seagate Barracude
  • PSU
    Rosewill Quark 550
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    2x120 chinarad, 1x140 chinarad, unknown copper CPU block, ebay acetal GPU block, Danger Den CPX-Pro, Custom Reservoir.
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  1. Who buys things local anymore? For less money it can be on my doorstep in 2 days, and I don't even have to be sober or dressed to buy it.
  2. IPS has nothing to do with the framerate, it refers to the type of LCD panel in the display. IPS generally has better viewing angles and more accurate/vibrant colors, while having a bit slower refresh rate compared to a TN panel. Expensive TN panels can look decent, and expensive IPS panels can be fast. Freesync just means the refresh rate on the monitor will change to match the framerate in your game, which allows the gameplay to feel smoother even at lower framerates. You can have an IPS monitor with freesync. I have one. If you have a freesync monitor and you are able to peg your FPS against the maximum refresh rate the whole time, no you won't notice a difference. But if you're a bit more borderline and the framerate bounces around between 45-60fps, your gameplay experience will be much nicer.
  3. Of course it would. I'm putting a Cryorig H7 on my 1600x that I plan on overclocking a bit. I think those are $35 on newegg right now.
  4. A good 80% of the time, state troopers running speed traps on the highway either just leave their Ka-band radar guns on constantly, or they are using pop mode on the cars as they go by. Pretty much any non-shit radar detector will pick up a radar gun that's on from a good distance out. On flat sections of highway, I can usually pick them up from a mile out, in ideal conditions just under 2 miles. Pop mode is a bit harder to spot, but if you get used to using the detector you'll figure out how to recognize it (usually sudden jumps from no signal to 2-3 bars of signal that then disappears). Most of the local police near me leave the front/rear firing radar on when they're driving around, so they're easy to pick up. Seriously, just use a decent radar detector sometime. They absolutely work. I would hardly call it "Luck" or an exercise in futility. I hear your argument all the time from people who have only used a crappy Cobra that went off after they saw the police car, then decided because their overpriced low-end unit didn't work for them, the whole product segment must be junk.
  5. Yeah, they're legal in pretty much all of the US, except Virginia, because Virginia is weirdly draconian about speeding. Check your local laws obviously. I know they are illegal in Quebec (there are signs shortly after you cross the border), and I don't remember if they are in Ontario. A decent radar detector is extremely useful. Obviously an all clear from it isn't permission to just go fast, but it'll help you catch yourself in time if you are. I have an Escort Passport 8500x50, and it's great. On the highway I'll usually get around a mile of warning (much more if it's flat). My only complaint is that it's very sensitive and goes off all the time, so if you can swing it I would go for the next model up, the 9500, for the gps lockout functionality. If you have false alarms on your commute from automatic doors and such, it will automatically learn to ignore them.
  6. I preordered mine, I think it's supposed to ship on the 2nd? Completely stoked. It's tiny, about the same size an an Enthoo Evolv ITX. Only it takes mATX mobo's. Stand up an mATX board, then add the height of a power supply, and that's pretty much the height of the case. Since I'm using cad to help design/layout my new desk, I made a few quickie models of a few different PC cases I was looking at. Grabbed a screenshot for a size comparison. From left to right: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX, Inwin 301, Rosewill Blackbone (my currently case, just for visual size comparison), and the DIYPC Cuboid G. The Inwin is narrower and a bit lower than the Evolv ITX, and a good couple inches lower than my current machine or the Cuboid G, which is stupidly wide because it has a horizontal motherboard. In the top view, the Inwin is an inch or so shorter than the Evolv ITX, way shorter than my rosewill.
  7. They're fun, but I adore the F20B. It's a destroked H22 with higher compression, normal sleeves, and hotter cams for more revs. They don't make awesome torque, but with basic boltons and a tune you can see nearly 200whp, which is pretty nuts for a 2.0L from the late 90's. Despite my current Subaru-bro affiliation (aside from the lack of flatbrim and my car being a legacy and not a bugeye), and the fact I've pretty much covered all of the "turbo subaru starter kit" stereotypes (supertone horns, "stage 2" downpipe and tune, accessport, XXR wheels, rumbly exhaust, and the fact I vape), I cut my teeth on wishbone honda's.
  8. I'm putting a TSX K24 and 6 speed into my friend's EG hatch. It's a CX, for maximum flying tin can effect. Car should be a death machine. Also: I get to cut up a wrecked TSX with a sawzall to get the powertrain out, so that's fun too. Depends on how much you're planning to do with it. A K24 is a whole ton more effort than an H22, JDM H23A bluetop, or F20B. Yes, the K24 is "better", but it's usually quite a bit more effort and expense (need to replace all mounts, possibly have to cut/weld mount brackets, need aftermarket $$$ axles made for the swap, shift assembly, ECU, harness, etc) compared to the swaps listed above that pretty much just bolt in by mixing and matching stock mounts, stock axles/intermediate shafts, and running wires for the vtec solenoid and the dual runner intake manifold. I'm currently considering abandoning my M90 supercharged F22 project in favor of just dropping an F20B into the car with basic intake/header/exhaust. It won't have anywhere near the hilarious torque of a boosted F22, but it will have ~180whp, an 8400rpm rev limit, and near-stock honda reliability. So less of an abomination, and much more "I can just go out and beat the crap out of this car knowing it won't break".
  9. I also swapped the engine, mostly because if I bought the engine and trans the junkyard would come pull it out of the car with a forklift. Parts Used: 1996 F22B1 longblock F23A1 intake manifold (flows WAY better than the stock one above 5000rpm) idle air control adapter plate F22B2 fuel rail and injectors (from the old engine) Cheapo F22Bx 4-2-1 header 1996 Accord EX 5 speed transmission 1994-1997 accord EX MT driver's side CV axle 1994-1997 accord MT intermediate shaft 1994-1997 accord MT shifter and cables 1994-1997 accord MT shift knob and shift boot (attaches right to the automatic center console surround) 1996 or 1997 Accord EX MT ECU (OBD2, just plugs right in, I might have had to mess with a couple of pins) 10k Linear Potentiometer (for faking 5v sensor values) I made a custom trans mount bracket, but later just bought the auto>manual swap mount from hasport. Clutch (exedy OEM replacement) Flywheel (generic one of rockauto) Axle Seals (always a good idea to replace them while the trans is out of the car Clutch slave cylinder stainless braided clutch line (direct from clutch master cylinder to slave) Wire, soldering iron, and electrical tape It sounds like a lot, but I also upgraded some things in the process. I used the wiring harness that used to feed the transmission for the reverse switch, vtec wiring, and any other things I needed to add.
  10. Aren't the Vega compute cards supposed to be 12.5 teraflop? It wouldn't make a ton of sense for the consumer gaming GPU version to somehow have less performance. Unless it's small Vega, although even then I'd assume they would want something between RX 580 and GTX 1080 performance (to compete with the 1070).
  11. I swapped my accord from auto to manual when I killed the transmission, so there will be no settling for an automatic. Outback XT's were made with a manual until I think 2007, so those are basically just LGT wagons on stilts with bigger tires and smaller brakes.
  12. 75hz with freesync is still pretty reasonable. If someone wants a 27in 144hz IPS 1440p monitor with Gsync, the cheapest one (AOC) is literally $600USD. The Predator you mentioned is $800.
  13. Oh for sure, prices just tend to skyrocket once you get much beyond 75hz IPS panels.
  14. Unless you get a really good TN panel (read: expensive), the color quality and viewing angle blows. Unless you get a really shite IPS panel, your game will look better than it does on even a very expensive TN panel. And it's not only games, everything will look better on the IPS panel. I count better colors and more viewing angle under "better graphical experience". Smoothness is great, but I (and many others) tend to run slower-paced and single player games like GTA or the Witcher 3 on the highest settings we can get away with while still getting an acceptable framerate. Don't get me wrong, when I was heavily into CS:S I used a 17in flat CRT for way longer than anyone can really justify. I totally appreciate how in certain types of gameplay you'd want those shorter frametimes, but the specific games OP mentioned see seriously diminishing returns once you get past a consistent 60fps.