Phate.exe

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About Phate.exe

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Phenom II X6 1090T BE (4GHz #yolo)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair XMS DDR3-1333
  • GPU
    Powercolor RX 470 Red Devil 4gb
  • Case
    Overstuffed, hacked up Rosewill Abomination
  • Storage
    2x500gb Seagate Barracude, 1x3TB Seagate Barracude
  • PSU
    Rosewill Quark 550
  • Cooling
    2x120 chinarad, 1x140 chinarad, unknown copper CPU block, ebay acetal GPU block, Danger Den CPX-Pro, Custom Reservoir.
  • Operating System
    Win10

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  1. $45/month for a 50 megabit symmetrical line. No TV service though.
  2. I was about to post that exact video. Before I saw that, I was super-interested in Pstate overclocking, or otherwise overclocking while keeping efficiency gains. Now I care very little, lol.
  3. Provided they actually have the cooling for 300 watts of power draw, I certainly don't care as long as it's fast enough. Even a lowly 650W PSU that cost me $60 will easily handle a 300W card and a Ryzen CPU with breathing room to spare. A Strix 1080ti uses like 285 watts. Gaming Vega isn't going to be a massive jump in power requirements over the Fury I have now.
  4. It's not really "wireless" It's just a side panel that has electrical contacts to the case for powering the fan. If magnets are involved, all the magnets do is hold the contacts together well enough for an electrical connection. Those contacts are functionally no different than wires or any other electrical connector.
  5. I really like Hitachi/HGST Ultrastars. I've bought a bunch of server-pull 2TB drives for like $30 each. I think I'm up to like 6 of them?
  6. 4 threads isn't really enough anymore. Look at the minimum framerates between an i5-7600k and an i7-7700k (or the i5 vs a Ryzen 1600/1600X). Your computer is doing stuff in the background, and if your game is hitting all of your processing threads hard, as soon as something needs to happen in the background you're probably going to see framerate dips/stuttering.
  7. Oh god, I didn't realize OP was asking about this. Used to work at Radioshack, it was pretty much a daily occurrence to have a customer come in requesting a "USB to USB" cable. Sometimes they'd be talking about HDMI, but usually they saw two devices with USB A ports on them, and assumed they could plug the cable between them to accomplish anything ranging from file transfers to video. It never went well when you would tell them that what they were looking to accomplish was not possible.
  8. Nah. I mean a couple of Samsung smart TV's at my friend's house, another friend's ipad, the roku at my parents' house, ipad at the GF's parents' houseand a few other players I've given access to. I can see who has been active and when.
  9. Gigabit is gonna limit you to around 120 megabytes/s no matter what you do. If that's enough transfer speed for you, just connect the computers to the router or a gigabit switch normally. Set up network share drive(s), and call it a day. If you want to go faster, it becomes a bit more complicated. You're going to be limited by the narrowest pipe you have, so if the NAS has a gigabit connection to the router/switch, that's all the bandwidth you have to share between all your clients. If you put 10 gigabit between the NAS and the switch, and gigabit going out to the clients, as long as the drive speeds aren't holding you back you should be able to get the full gigabit speed to each client simultaneously. You could also put a 4 port gigabit NIC in the nas, and run point to point connections to your clients. Going faster means 10gb ethernet, so either grab a 10gb network switch and some 10gb nics for your clients, or just get 10gb nics and go point to point.
  10. I have like 4 people outside my house that use my plex server, but only ever really had 2 remote streams going at the same time I was using it at home. Gradually transitioning to higher resolution content, but as of now the highest resolution displays in my house are my 4k monitor and Lumia 950, so it's hard to justify 4k unless it's a movie I really care about. Honestly I'm genuinely impressed with how well the i3 is doing. An undervolted Ryzen 1600 is super-tempting, but since I already have everything for LGA1155 I might as well just spend the ~$100-150 for an e3-12xxv2 and more ram off ebay instead of pretty much building a totally new machine.
  11. Even my crappy little i3-3220 does just fine in a Plex server, multiple 1080p transcodes while not making the computer totally unusable locally. I want to toss a an ivybridge xeon into it, pretty much just because I can/moar coars, but as of now it's not really struggling at all. No idea how many clients you have using your Plex box though, and obviously 4k content is going to be a way more intense load than my 1080p collection.
  12. I'm getting itchy waiting for my AM4 bracket from Cryorig. Not their fault it took forever, autofill messed up my address on their form and I missed the email from support, lol. I know I could have saved like $40 or something if I'd gotten a 1600 and overclocked it, but it wasn't like the price difference between a 1700 and an 1800x, and a 1600X has all the single-thread of the 1800X for half the price, and I basically won't need to screw with it aside from making my ram happy. I turned a $160 RX 470 into a Fury Nitro thanks to the mining craze, and after shipping/ebay fees still had enough for a couple large cold brew iced coffees. Looking at benchmarks, I should be able to keep most games comfortably inside the freesync range on my monitor at 4k/high-ultra settings, so I can't complain there. Oh for sure, totally see the appeal of that. My new build is pretty much me dipping my toes into the high-end to see what it's like to have nice new things.
  13. Oh absolutely. Once you get to the point of "it won't be holding the GPU back at 4k60", that tells you that games will run just fine on your new theoretical $4000 computer if you try to play them. That's all you really need to know in that regard. Gaming is more "it will do that, as well" for CPU's like these. However there's nothing that can be done about people buying hardware that doesn't fit their use-case at all. I like a decent amount of cores because I have a handful of workloads that will use more than 6 threads, but mostly just hate closing stuff in the background, and my computer gets used for a mix of gaming (mainly gaming), dicking around on the internet, and Onshape (think solidworks for people that don't want to spend $5000). I'd like to get into 4k gaming. A 1600X and a Fury Nitro (until I see how RX Vega performs/costs) seem to meet my needs very nicely.
  14. Cryorig H7 is a pretty great choice for basically any processor, and costs $35 while looking inoffensive. I'm waiting on my AM4 bracket to show up this week before I put one on a 1600X, but I've used them on a number of other machines as well. The one in the build I put together for my friend keeps his Phenom II x4 that we unlocked to a 6 core (aka an old power hungry CPU) nice and cool, I've barely ever heard the fan spin up in a very open case sitting next to his TV. It's not like Ryzen is gonna clock much/any higher with one air cooler vs another. The architecture hits a wall right around 4GHz basically no matter what you do. Edit, just saw OP has an R7 1700. The stock cooler is fine, I'd start with that and only grab an aftermarket cooler like an H7 if you feel like you're having trouble keeping temps in line.
  15. GTX 1080, for the ultimate in rock stable 60fps in literally any game you throw at it for the next 8 years, lol. Also I really like that the gamersnexus Ashes of the Benchmark results included both a 1090T and a 4GHZ 1090T. Looks like my new 1600X will bring me up to ~31fps/23min vs the 15.3/6.9 on the overclocked Thuban. Kinda wish the graphs would be sorted by minimums/frametimes though. Once framerates get much over 100fps I tend to not care (either on my current display or my new 60hz 4k freesync panel), but lower minimums would annoy me while playing.