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About Phate.exe

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  • CPU
    Phenom II X6 1090T BE (4GHz #yolo)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair XMS DDR3-1333
  • GPU
    Powercolor RX 470 Red Devil 4gb
  • Case
    Overstuffed, hacked up Rosewill Abomination
  • Storage
    2x500gb Seagate Barracude, 1x3TB Seagate Barracude
  • PSU
    Rosewill Quark 550
  • Cooling
    2x120 chinarad, 1x140 chinarad, unknown copper CPU block, ebay acetal GPU block, Danger Den CPX-Pro, Custom Reservoir.
  • Operating System

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  1. The only way I could remotely see this happening is if he drained his loop into a gatorade bottle or something, then accidentally took a gulp from it quickly. A few drops of antifreeze in your mouth won't hurt you (it's gross, you'll notice immediately, and spit it out), but actually swallowing any real amount is bad new bears. I used to run 25% Automotive coolant / 75% distilled water in my loop, but switched to nontoxic antifreeze (Propylene Glycol) once children being near my PC became a possibility. Ethanol (aka booze) is used in the treatment of Ethylene Glycol poisoning. So drink up OP, if you're actually still alive.
  2. Not dangerous at all, although AAA's wouldn't be my recommendation. My fans will run slowly at 6 volts, and my pump is far quieter at my usual 7 volts than it is running at the full 12. I have a Molex fan controller. AAA's (and pretty much any "normal" battery other than a 9volt) are 1.5 volts. Wiring the batteries in series adds the voltage together, so 4 AAA's gives you 6 volts, and 5 will give you 7.5, which would power a fan quite well. You've got the voltage, but you don't have much capacity, as you only have the capacity of one of the batteries in series (if I remember, it's around 900mAh for a AAA). AA alkaline's are somewhere in the 2200-2500mAh range, so you've got way more capacity in 5 or 6 AA's. Considering a 120mm case fan typically draws something like 50mA, you'll probably have something like 30-40 hours of runtime on batteries. Really, you're better off just grabbing any old PSU and jumping a couple of pins with a paperclip if you want to power some fans.
  3. The effectiveness (cooling capacity) of a radiator or other heat exchanger is determined by the difference in temperature between the radiator and the medium that it is transferring heat to (ambient or case-temperature air). This is known as "Delta-T", which just means the temperature difference. If your coolant is at 45C, and you're sending X amount of 20C ambient air through the rad, you will be able to remove heat at a given rate, while you would have much less cooling capacity if you are trying to remove heat from that same rad full of 45C coolant with air that is 35C. On something like a car or an industrial chiller, this pretty much doesn't matter at all because the temperature delta is huge (engine coolant runs around 80C, also they have thermostats), but on a PC that we're trying to keep within 10-20C of ambient this is a big deal. So I guess my point is that yes, your idea will work, and it will cool better than either a 120mm or a 140mm rad, but you are greatly limiting the performance of whichever radiator is is last in your stack, since you're trying to cool the second rad with hot air. Since they're both closed loops, I'd put whichever is the most okay with running hot last in the stack (a GPU gives no shits about 70C, a CPU will be having a bad day)
  4. Does the rad get warm? A cool rad and an overheating card is a sure sign the pumps aren't running. If you can't find actual water blocks for your card, you could likely modify the existing pump/block combo to use them as a block. Depending on how they come apart you might be able to just yank the impellers out of them, put them back together, and then use an external pump to shove water through the now-empty pump housings.
  5. Yeah, the system's ability to transfer heat from the CPU depends on the water block, and the ability to then get that heat out of the water loop depends on the radiator and fans. The only real functional differences between a water loop and a heatsink/fan are the difference in case temperatures (if you put the rads on exhaust fans), and the thermal mass of the system. More coolant capacity = more thermal mass = longer "buffer" time until the loop stabilizes in temperature.
  6. It's extremely possible, ESPECIALLY if you buy some used bits. Not that my setup is necessarily what I'd recommend most people use, but it performs damn well for a modified AIO that I have maybe $120 into. I can say that most waterblocks are hilariously overpriced for what they are.
  7. Build your own?
  8. I've used IEM's with no bass at all, and I've used IEM's with obnoxious amounts of bass (think 17 year old's car with subwoofers in the trunk). The old V-Moda BassFreq's were terribly unbalanced and cheaply made, but a very fun IEM to listen to electronic music and hip hop with. Every time I need new earbuds, I'll go over to Head-Fi and look through their sub-$100 reviews to find something from the Chinese market. Currently I have a set of Fidue A65's, which are $63 on Amazon and I'm extremely happy with them. They also have an in-line mic with one button for play/pause/voice-assistant. Overall, they remind me a lot of my old V-Moda Vibe's (the metal construction 45-degree plug ones, not the plastic garbage ones), and that's a good thing. For genuinely cheap IEM's that sound good but I won't care too much if something happens to them, I highly recommend the DUNU DN-12 Trident, which is like $25. They sound good enough that I'm perfectly happy to listen to them for a long time, they're comfortable enough I regularly fall asleep wearing them, and they're cheap enough that if I pull a wire and one side stops working, I won't be too sad about it. DUNU also has some higher-end models, but I haven't personally listened to them. Both are full-metal construction. Both are quite nicely packaged in boxes with a lot of chinese characters on them. Last time I was shopping, I was originally just going to spend $100-120, and ended up buying another set of DN-12 Trident's, as well as the Fidue A65's.
  9. RAM latches that only have a lever on one side (like on my Crosshair V). I don't want to just "push it until it clicks". I like the old-style with levers on both ends of the ram stick, so you can visibly see the latches drop into place when the ram is fully seated. Not that I was fighting a slot that didn't want to fully seat or anything, and being unable to get the system to post with 4 sticks of ram. Not in a PC: Every single ZIF/Ribbon cable in an iphone 6 plus.
  10. I'm in love with Hitachi Ultrastar server-pulls. Probably won't buy anything else for mechanical drives.
  11. If you ignore BF1, it's actually a 4.1% improvement in gaming. With BF 1 massively skewing the results it ends up being ~7.5%. The graph is a bit weird in that it treats the single-CCX "quad core" as the baseline, and the 2+2 setup as the comparison. Since we're interested in seeing if performance improves without the inter-CCX latency, I'd have used the 2+2 setup as the baseline, since that is most similar to the way R7 functions currently, and compared it to the 4+0 "quad core".
  12. A quad core apu with RX 470 performance would be the ultimate console-killer setup for me. Put it in a tiny case with a decent cooler, use the space that otherwise would have gone to the GPU to stuff a 2x120 rad inside. Add an SSD or two. And that's pretty much it. 1080p60 on high/ultra settings, in a box the size of a modern game console.
  13. Nahh, zMeul seems to be pretty okay on topics that aren't AMD-related. He gets into it with people, argues points hard, and tends to select the "AMD are morons" conclusion in any way he can with the data given, but typically keeps the arguments on-topic. zMeul provides links to support his arguments. I might disagree with his conclusions, but he's a sane person with an odd grudge. Patrick made genuinely absurd claims, and would argue them to death, often making additional equally absurd claims in an attempt to either support his point or deflect entirely. Also liked to whip his education out and attempt to belittle people. I think the best example was the Bristol Ridge delid thread, where he was adament that the CPU in the image was actually an old xeon model that didn't actually exist. He'd also cite unverifiable sources like "my contacts that work in ______ chip fab" say Ryzen will never clock above X.Y GHz (somewhere in the low 3's I think).
  14. Not sure if I am actually getting these or not to be honest. I'm on insider slow ring on my computers, and fast ring on W10 Mobile, so I've always gotten "Hey, we changed this feature, check it out!" sort of messages.
  15. His point was that the R7 is better at gaming than the 7700k is at being a workstation processor.