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About Phate.exe

  • Title


  • CPU
    Phenom II X6 1090T BE (4GHz #yolo)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair XMS DDR3-1333
  • GPU
    Powercolor RX 470 Red Devil 4gb
  • Case
    Overstuffed, hacked up Rosewill Abomination
  • Storage
    2x500gb Seagate Barracude, 1x3TB Seagate Barracude
  • PSU
    Rosewill Quark 550
  • Cooling
    2x120 chinarad, 1x140 chinarad, unknown copper CPU block, ebay acetal GPU block, Danger Den CPX-Pro, Custom Reservoir.
  • Operating System

Profile Information

  1. Undervolting R9 Nano using Crimson WattMan

    Yup, the Superposition benchmark is a free download. I think paying for it unlocks a bunch more settings and whatnot, but the main presets everyone uses are all available in the free version. Not sure how the triple monitor setup would effect things.
  2. Undervolting R9 Nano using Crimson WattMan

    At stock voltage, is the card maintaining the full 1000MHz under load? If you're hitting the power limit (which I'm pretty sure these Nano's do out of the box), you'll see the card drop in clockspeed. With the reduced voltage, you're looking to get the power within the restrictions at the full clockspeed (state 7), so the card doesn't throttle. You should just be able to look at the trendlines in Wattman to see what it's doing. I'd recommend downloading the Unigine Superposition benchmark. Only takes a couple mins to run through, beats up on the gpu pretty nicely, gives you a score, as well as framerate/clockspeed/temps to watch. You can go WAY lower than 1228mV. 1200 is enough for 1050MHz on my Fury Nitro, and is probably still throttling you back to State 6 once you start leaning on the card. Seriously I'd just set it to 1175 and go from there. Worst case it crashes on you and you turn it back up.
  3. Ryzen 1600x idle temperature?

    If I had to guess, the version of Corsair Link you have installed hasn't been updated to remove the 20 degree temperature offset that was in place for some reason when ryzen launched. If HWMonitor, Aida64, and Ryzen Master are reading the same thing, that's probably accurate, especially if they are all the most up to date possible versions. 48C under full load sounds like a pretty believable temperature for a 1600X. XFR is pretty aggressive and tends to throw voltage around a lot, but that's the behavior of a stock chip so AMD seems to think that's nothing to worry about. I'd say you're probably fine.
  4. I'd say that some kind of benchmark results would be a pretty good way to advertise performance, but then you'd inevitably end up worrying about chips that are only good at that benchmark and might kinda suck in other workloads. Like if you based the gaming performance of my old Phenom II X6 machine on some of the 3DMark scores, you'd assume it's completely unusable, especially since Timespy can't even run on it. Because the benchmarks are currently only used by tech reviewers creating content for nerds, that's not a problem, but you'd quickly run into issues once things go into mainstream advertising.
  5. Undervolting R9 Nano using Crimson WattMan

    Note: My experience is all with a Fury Nitro, but it should still apply aside from the fact you've got 64 CU's vs my 56, and you're working with a much lower power limit. The R9 Nano is power-throttled, so if the card uses too much juice it's just gonna drop to a lower power state. Dropping the voltage would reduce the amount of power being used, so the card is less likely to drop to a lower power state. At stock clocks (1150MHz) I was able to run 1175mV (vs the 1250mV it runs out of the box), although I encountered some slight stability issues after playing certain games for a while. 1200mV works fine at 1050MHz, but I wanted to drop the power consumption/heat a lot more. Once I underclocked it to 1030MHz, it's been nice and stable at the 1175mV, and I really haven't noticed much of a performance hit. I was gonna do some more testing to see how much lower I could send the voltage, but ended up playing games for a while instead, lol. 1050MHz (the factory OC from Sapphire) seems to be pretty close to the point where Fiji starts requiring LOTS of power to go any farther, and the card absolutely has the power delivery for dual 8pin madness like that, but I don't really feel like those extra 20MHz are worth 30-40 watts. Since State 7 for your card is 1000MHz, to start off I'd drop to 1150mV or so, and apply that to states 5 - 7. You don't really need to worry too much about the lower Pstates, since it's just gonna end up spending all it's time in state 6 or 7 when you're beating on it anyways. I usually only touch the voltage on the middle power states when I've gotten a higher state down to that level (for example, if you got State 7 to 1100mV, and you probably will, I'd drop State 4 to 1100mV). Pulling numbers completely out of my ass, I wouldn't be totally surprised if you were able to get the voltage down around 1075mV. Run the your benchmark of choice (I like to use Unigine Superposition 4K optimized), and watch for artifacting. If you see super-distracting "flashes" of light, you've probably got the voltage or power a bit too low for that clockspeed. Depending on the benchmark used, you'll might get small artifacts from having not-quite-enough VRAM. There's nothing you can really do about that, and you'll probably notice them stock as well. The first sign of successful progress will be the card staying in the higher power states/clockspeed for more of the benchmark (obviously resulting in better scores), and the next is going to be a reduction in fan rpm. Less fan speed at the same temperature means you aren't kicking out nearly as much heat.
  6. I7 4770 still worth buying?

    As others have said, $400 puts you into a R5/B350 setup, and you'll be on a brand new platform with long term support. I'd lowball the crap out of them, and if you can get those parts for $300 I'd do it, but even if you do that, you're not gonna be that far off from just buying new fancyboy parts.
  7. The school computers

    The way we used to do it was using either flash drives, or eventually running software from our network drive. This would have been the early-mid 2000's, so think P4 Prescott Dell Optiplex era.
  8. ATX motherboard VS mini ATX

    With most of the B350 boards, the mATX versions use the same VRM. That said, it's way easier to find a beefy ATX board if that's what you're looking for. ATX is 12 x 9.6 inches, and mATX is 9.6 x 9.6. So pretty much everything above the bottom two PCI express slots will be identical.
  9. I've felt like 4 threads is not enough for a few years now. Unfortunately until this year that pretty much meant buying an i7. I didn't want to spend i7 money, and 7th gen i5's only being quadcores makes them pretty worthless to me. Coffeelake i5's seem like the way to go, if you want to run intel. For an example of what moar coars is awesome for, I was just playing CSGO at over 60fps while encoding a few seasons of ripped TV shows. The system barely notices how hard you're leaning on it, it's completely unreal.
  10. It's smoother for sure, but once you get above 100-120hz you're seriously getting into diminishing returns. But based on testing data I've been able to find, a stock 1600X should be very capable of pushing the frames OP is looking for. They either need to turn the graphics settings down because their 1060 can't do it, or they need to figure out their cooling situation because they're cooking the shit out of their 1600X. Without know what kind of cooler OP has, or how high they have the graphics settings, the entire thread is pointless.
  11. Besides that point: From what I can find, a stock 1600X paired with an RX 480 rocks a 125fps minimum and 162 average in Rainbow Six Siege at 1080p high settings. 720p/low testing to eliminate any GPU bottlenecking goes well over 200fps. OP probably just needs to turn the graphics settings down because they're trying to run 144fps out of a midrange gpu. Also it sounds like they have pretty garbage cooling.
  12. Under 65C in a tiny case with the fans set to a quiet profile. It's also sharing that space with a Fury Nitro, so nothing inside this machine runs especially cool.
  13. Because ESPORTZ. Everyone knows that FPS's are literally unplayable at less than 120hz.
  14. Don't start at 4GHz? That's likely as far as you'd get anyways. Set your voltage to like 1.3 or something, set the processor to something low like 3.5GHz, then start ramping up clockspeed running a couple benchmarks until it starts crashing on you. Add a bit of voltage, try to run benchmarks again. Rinse and repeat until you either can't keep the thing cool, or you're no longer comfortable adding voltage. Keep notes handy to record voltage, clockspeeds, temps, and benchmark scores. Once you get the thing maxed out, you can dial things back a bit to keep almost all the performance without leaning on the CPU nearly as hard. Because it boosts to 4.0 or 4.1 when you're only using 1 or 2 cores. I haven't bothered to overclock mine because it already runs at 3.7/4.1 out of the box with a cheap Cryorig H7.