Mina Darsh

They're okay, the Gateron ones are even smoother in my experience. However, these switches are click-jacket, so, the click is generated using a plastic jacket that sits around the stem and slams down after a certain point to generate the clicky noise, pro: Hysteresis (if you care about that.) Con: Not a very pleasant kind of clicky sound. You could also consider Kailh Box click-bar switches, which uses a metal click bar that a lot of people find to sound much cleaner, and can actuate a lot heavier too if desired. Also it does another click on the way back up. This kind of switch does not have hysteresis, which would be better in gaming usage, I suppose. The GMMK Pro has received mixed reviews, a competing keyboard, the Keychron Q series, the Q1 specifically, seems to be better in a few key areas, especially after doing a little modding.

Hmmm, don't often look on Banggood, most of the time on Ali Express, could have a look there too. So, I take it something different than what is now on the board, but still matching nicely with the case colour, if that is the case colour? Could see if I can recommend something. Also, there are many keycap profiles too, the most used one being OEM, followed by Cherry (OEM but less tall pretty much), are you looking for something like that or perhaps something else? (There are options that are much taller, more retro looking and there are options that don't have a different shape for each row, making it easier to use keys on a different row.)

Can see if I can help, thing with this layout, that is known as 65% layout, is that you need a 1.75U Shift (U being just Unit, so 1U is just one square button), and in this example's case, you need 1U Modifier keys for the right-hand side Mods. Looks like you also need an Escape key for the number row, and Delete for the row relative to the top Alpha keys, Page Up for the middle Alpha row and Page Down for the lower Alpha row, the rest is pretty standard. Best question to start with if wanting to help finding a keycap set for this board, what is your budget?

Yoooo, sick project, really love it.

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks: I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.

I do know that the part number for the wiring is MPJY1 and for the mounting screw/cap is PX9DM. Dell sadly can't just mail those, so far also no luck trying to find these parts in the online stores I checked so far.

Hello, I recently acquired a pretty neat machine packed with lots of features within a 1.16L package, but there is one thing missing, or... partially missing. Most versions of this model come with a WLAN module and the antenna to go with it, but mine sadly didn't. Now there is an M.2 slot for both an SSD and WLAN module inside, but no wiring for the latter. Now I have been looking around to see if I could find something similar to what Dell has, but finding a single antenna with two MHF-4 connectors seems very difficult, at least I have no luck yet. I don't really feel like drilling an additional hole in the back. I have contacted Dell and even found the part number, sadly, they're unable to provide it separately, so no luck there either. So, short but simple, anyone know where to get a single RPSMA antenna connector, with two MHF-4 plugs? PS: Anyone also know a solution for securing the WLAN card? The standard screws don't work. Pictures for convenience:

Sadly so far, mini-ITX has been somewhat exclusive to Intel for some reason, I was wondering a while ago what it would cost to make an AM3+ based mini-ITX, to my shock, only some unknown brand made a board so far that is extremely hard to get... I hope this won't stay that way... I haven't seen anything yet.

CPU: Intel i7 6700K @4.0 GHz. GPU: MSI nVidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition. (+235 MHz on the Core, +500 MHz on the Memory.) RAM: 8 GiB DDR4-2133. Oh, and only 12 liters big.

Yes, I take my hand off the mouse as I don't need it... It goes on the keyboard, and my left will control a Pen Tablet, I draw in Photoshop. So a mouse is a recipe for disaster then.

I use Intel myself myself because I pretty much bumped into the same things that have been said here, single Core performance is great on Intel, but I also pay my own electricity bill so I prefer my computer to be efficient as well. Also, as I actually found out after building this system though, there are almost no AMD Mini-ITX boards. And with a 12 Liter system being the main aim, it turns out there was no choice anyway. Though aside from that I would've chosen Intel. I also have seen multiple articles where it was shown that, I believe the Bulldozer architecture, had Cores that had to share the FPU, while ideally you want each Core to have their own FPU. Anyway, I'm not against AMD, it's good that they exist, and I hope they do make Intel sweat and perhaps make it interesting to try them again, rivalry will prevent too small increments on new generations... Looking at you Intel!

I work a lot in Photoshop and sometimes in Illustrator, with Photoshop I use the shortcut keys for most of the tools, like Brush (B), Pen Tool (P), Lasso Tools(L), and many more. I also do use the Shift modifier to swap between Tools within a category. Other often used shortcuts are Image resize, Canvas Size, Repeat Effect and Save for Web. (And ofcourse the more basic ones like Opening, Saving, Saving As, Copy, Cut and Paste.) I actually already changed that the Convert Point Tool is also added to the Shift - P rotation, though lately that became obselete as I noticed Alt can be added as a modifier to Convert Anchor points.

That motherboard temperature though, how is that one so high?

@i_build_nanosuits has a point, it may be that the cooler is not seating well, it can happen. When you pull the cooler off you will know as if it didn't seat well, you'll see areas on the cooler where thermal paste didn't touch it. It does sound like it's not the cooler's fault, I myself have a mini-ITX system as described in my signature, so I only have a tiny four heatpipes cooler, and I'm not even getting temps that high.

Noctua is pretty darn rock solid, and well, one major advantage of air cooled is that there are less spots where it could fail. Oh, come to think of it, have you checked how much voltage your mobo puts through your CPU? Mine was pumping more voltage than needed which also causes unnecessary heat.