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cron.7

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  1. cron.7
    Hey Guys, quick question: When setting FastLED.setMaxPowerInMilliWatts or FastLED.setMaxPowerInVoltsAndMilliamps are the mA or mW per LED or for all LEDs? Example mW: 1 LED: 300mW (0.3W) → 10 LEDs 3000mW (3W) @ full White Brightness Do I write FastLED.setMaxPowerInMilliWatts(300); or FastLED.setMaxPowerInMilliWatts(3000); ? Thanks for your help! 5chmidti
  2. cron.7
    Fix: void loop() { if ( Serial.available() > 0 ) { char a = ','; String input = Serial.readStringUntil ( a ); /*for ( int i = 0; i < sizeof ( commandList ); i++ ) { if ( input == commandList[i] ) { command = input; SerialConfirm(); } } */ the for loop hindered the input of commands, now everything is as responsive as it should be, so deactivate it or delete it.
  3. cron.7
    Additional Info: (forgot to mention) When I first upload the code the first command I enter always works when commands are accepted the serial monitor spits out "OK", but only the "Off"-commands work repsonsively. after the first 1 or two accepted/working commands there is no response EDIT: nailed it down to code input problem, moving to dedicated subforum
  4. cron.7
    Did not help, it's the same as before. Only the "Off" command works, and no other. So it's not my Arduino.
  5. cron.7
    I've got a spare arduino on hand, which i haven't even soldered its pin array on, so I'll give it a try.
  6. cron.7
    Hey Guys, I've finished making this project (LED Project (LTT Forum)) some time ago. The problem is, that if I give a command to the arduino through the serial monitor, the only responsive command is "Off". So it doesn't execute the command I send it. Code (from the project, not mine, just a little adjusted): I can't see why the code shouldn't work properly and accept any declared command. Information: I've burnt my voltage regulator of my arduino, so I bridged it Between the Arduino and the LED Data pins is a Resistor (300 Ohm, 0.6W, 0.25%) and a <2m long wire LEDs are not powered by arduino Baud size in serial monitor is the right one, made it higher once for testing purposes, no change Any help in fixing this problem is appreciated. 5chmidti
  7. cron.7
    Answered it myself, searched a bit
  8. cron.7
    Hm... I know for sure we have tv and internet running through those cables. But the plan is to cancel the tv subscription on favor for more internet speed. I'll take a look at converters and test it out, if they are not too pricey. How will I have to connect this? Just add this to the outlet near the pc and its up and running? Or do I have to feed the line I'm connecting it to with an Ethernet connection coming from the router?
  9. cron.7
    Yes we have cable internet. Our Router is connected to the output on And I have this connections in the otehr room (those ports would have to be cleaned): If I remeber correectly the poeple, who rented this flat berfore had put their internet acces in this room (pic2), where I want to have an ethernet conenction. If I'm thinking something wrong please let me know
  10. cron.7
    Hey Guys, I want to hook my PC up with an Ethernet connection. My problem is, that our router is in another room, and running an Ethernet cable from there to my PC would be to complicated. Can I connect another router/ modem or whatsoever to the coaxial walloutlet in the room with my pc and run is so to speak in parallel to the router? I can't move the router, because there are other things connected to via ethernet. So in short: What can I connect to a coaxial/cable walloutlet to run an ethernet cable to a end-device? What sollutions are viable? Sincerely 5chmidti
  11. cron.7
    Looks like it'll be Schiit then Thanks guys
  12. cron.7
    Hey Guys, I recently bought the Sennheiser x Massdrop HD 6xx's. I already got a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which should be enough to get them fairly loud, yet a dedicated Amp will give the 6xx's a better sound overall (more defined and so on). Now I dont want to spend more than 200$. So the best Amps in that price range would be the Schiit Magni 3 Schiit Vali 2 JDS Labs Objective 2 Little Dot I+ Little Dot MK 2 (Sales not included, Massdrop may Drop some of these) What do you guys think? They probably are all great, but if some of you have hands on experience let me know. Sincerely 5chmidti
  13. cron.7
    Yeah, some ohter componets occupy the 3,3 and 5 V rail, but as I not want to doo all LEDs on white, beacsue I could just turn my light on that, I don't think I would run into a limit from the PSU. The current PSUs I have on my watchlist (because mine is not that quiet and I want to go more quiet with my system) are about 20 A max on 5 V so technically there could be a limitation, but I want to look further, as there are PSUs with 25 A max on 5 V which would fit my purpose much better. I also did thought of DC/C Converters, but having the power drawn directly from the PUS would be better, and I wouldn't need to buy an extra converter. The upside to this would be that I could have more than enough power to drive my LEDs. But for now I'll stick with the PSUs 5 V. So your opinion on this measurment craze is to buy the wires that fit best for the stated amount of current that each LED consumes at full white brightness.
  14. cron.7
    So, my LEDs work just fine at around 5 V (measured when it did this measurment). The LEDs are WS2812b LEDs, which means they are digital as you said. I have 60 LEDs / m and I will run 3,3 m in parallel for every 1m or so to provide a stable enough Voltage. So 3,6 A per 1 m, which will be collectively connected to the PUS. I've already looked at this table and I probably will need 18 AWG or better for some parts. Power will be directly drawn from the PSUs Molex 5 V and the signal comes directly from the Arduino. My real concern here is the amount of current the wires have to handle (with 18 AWG i should be fine for the 1 m parallel connection as it is supposed to draw only 3,6 A and the 18 AWG should do around that, right? ) and the amount it has to draw from my PSU (the 3,3 m strip that is my main one, should only be drawing 12 A) if it is on full white. It probably wont, but I'd like to know how much headroom I have). I'd like to confirm those stated numbers of around 60 mA per LED to be safe. And the resistance implied by the wires is not that huge. There should be (if I take 18 AWG) around 0,075 V of loss per Meter if I run them how I at the moment think I will. so this should not be a problem.
  15. cron.7
    Oh boy, so I bought the 1 Ohm resistor and what did I got? 0,03 V across the resistor.... this would mean: I = U/R so I = 0,03 V / 1 Ohm = 0,03 A, but I had 2 LEDs on this one so 0,015 A... so either the software does not allow to draw the full amount of power (@dany_boy) which I doubt or something other is wrong here. It's not the multimeter (it can read 1,5 and 5 V, but maybe it's to bad for this little voltage) and I would have probably noticed if it was my PSU. So LEDs maybe? I don't know... This was supposed to be easier... Well lets see how this one goes. And maybe I just should go out and buy wires that can carry the amount of current with the official measurements (60 mA). Any thoughts? Would be some longer some shorter wires, but all for max 1 m of LEDs. Cheers Guys
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