System Error Message

quite wrong. Most of the people here dont know a thing about anti viruses. I've hanged around cybersecurity long enough to know a lot of malware creators will always beat many anti virus and many of them dont even bother to improve their product. Malwarebytes pro or not is worse than windows defender. The best anti virus based on detection is kaspersky. The best anti virus based on protection behaviour is bitdefender. Sophos is decent after those 2 and provides a lot of other security. Essentially if you want to choose your anti malware, just base it around these 3. All other providers cant even compare. It doesnt matter what some products were in the past. Some AVs have done dodgy things like use your PC for bitcoin or even selling your data like avast recently. Avast was one of the best more than a decade and today is one of the worst, same for malwarebytes that provides absolutely no runtime protection even their pro version. You could argue their offline scan. Kaspersky moved their company out of russia long ago. The incident was more about the CIA not being happy that their backdoors and zero day exploits didnt work with kaspersky so tried to shame them away. There are some companies that i avoid like the plague for many reasons one of which tends to be CIA meddling in their security which also affects their quality. Netgear is a big victim of this where they have backdoors and their quality is terrible, used to be long ago netgear hardware quality was top notch even when their firmwares left much to be desired. Ubiquiti falls under here for being very dodgy as well and less capable. I see mikrotiks as a datacenter preferred with other brands only used per customer request but no ubiquiti for example, and peope love to freak out about every exploit rather than read what the exploit actually is. For example spectre and meltdown allowed access to the data of another application though difficult if done right could get keys and passwords or other sensitive data whereas mikrotik's vulnerabilities could only happen if you leave your management exposed which is something you are supposed to block as part of initial config. There have been proper tests done that i base my recommendation on with tests done on detection and protection. Theres no point being able to detect a malware like malwarebytes case but it fails to even protect. Granted these tests did push some brands to actually improve their product but even fancy AV like cloudstrike does a terrible job and having used it at work before, gets in my way more than actually protect.

i found one of the problems that causes alienwares to burn out. When the screen brightness is set to max, i notice screen corruption from time to time, a sign before it burnt out. Even without barely any power draw, the screen pulling more power can burn out the board and screen itself, including the camera and i forgot to extend the warranty of my alienware. It was serviced this year but i dont know if dell would put warranty on that. The dell included PSU may be insufficient but is not the cause of the burn out or the temperature itself, but rather the laptop's capability to power the screen at max, alongside with updates (for instance running CoH2 recording on faster speeds is what caused the initial burn out). and every replacement board put into it kept burning out. The problem could also be with the PSU itself. Short of the laptop being replaced, a lot of components were changed, board, PSU, screen, etc and the issue still persists. I will not buy another alienware as while the new ones were designed better and priced better, they lacked bios features that would make it good for gaming (talking about the AGA), and quality still sucks on the inside with serious flaws.

but did you overclock the fans (viewers) and yourself? Im using precog to overcome the lack of performance of input devices

one thing i mentioned on the youtube comments instead, you can overclocked the drives. One is the bus they sit on (FSB overclock may affect this, along with PCIe bus too). The other thing you can do is tweak the firmware on the drives, which some softwares can still do with many drives (though they arent free) such as tweaking their acoustic setting (setting 2 WD blacks raid 0 to full performance really rocks the PC both ways ), it may be possible to tweak the firmware with SSDs but i've not seen it done. One way to get more performance from your drives is to get 2 SSDs, put them in software raid 0, and enjoy the benefits of your overclocked ram for a huge cache. You could go a step further with a lot of ram and just use a ram drive, the fastest way to game where as long as you have the processing power, game load times will be near instantaneous especially if you did an FSB overclock too. Its nice the new intels allow cache overclocking like you could achieve with 1st gen iseries, the only limitation is that you cannot exceed the speed of the cache above it.

but will it blend? Does it run crysis?

by law ISPs have to log you, so even if you have a dynamic IP upon request you can get the personal info tied to the IP used at that time. Theres ways to get GPS coordinates, using that personal info alongside tracing and timing you can determine distance as well.

Ip address is personal, because in the past i used to be able to get GPS coordinates for an IP address . You can imagine its far worse for anyone with greater tech access, its to the point where they can just send a missile accurately to an IP. Your IP address will also have registered detail like names, addresses, etc , so IP addresses are very very identifiable. I would like to quote from person of interest "a black box system, no human sees it therefore no privacy is invaded or laws broken and gives plausible deniability" Essentially this is just what google and other companies that require personal info to function can argue. Moderators for instance have to be able to see IP addresses on a forum for doing their job. For instance knowing if it is an imposter, hacked account, duplicate accounts or to do an IP ban but one can argue that a hash of the IP will work the same as well. 3rd party means anything outside the company. Google can function without giving any identifiable information to 3rd parties. They need to collect info to function correctly such as with targeted ads but those ads only see statistics and no specific information. I think a lot of companies did not correctly write their forms as well.

only a little bit, as i said in some posts that the battery wear from charging it high is insignificant. If you think about devices that always drain their batteries, like phones, you can charge it up to full because it spends little time full as it spends most of the day being drained. A lot of batteries like a slow long drain. If you consider how people charge and use their phones, charging it everyday from 0-100% will wear it out within 2 years but this is based on what the manufacturer wants for the 500 full cycle charges before it starts to lose capacity. If you treat the battery exactly the same but charge it up every 2 days, it will last for 4 years before significant capacity lost. What im saying is that the biggest factor to your lithium battery life isnt keeping your battery not full (except for a few months) or picking a charge range but how much you actually use it. If you only charge up to 70% and charge it again from 40% it will still last for the same amount of time because you're still using the same amount of energy and completing the amount of cycles, and if you only use 30% a day, age will be the main killer.

As i said, depends on the charge controller. I would not believe tesla much either. Regarding cars thats a different issue because with cars you are pulling a lot of power from those batteries, hence why you should not accelerate hard with your tesla if you want the batteries to last long. Since tesla is manufacturing their own batteries, they can set their own rules for their own batteries. Hence tesla's advice only works for tesla. Perhaps you may want to ask why this is and the reason is simple, tesla needs to compete against petroleum based cars, so to get the range they need to eek out as much power as possible, not to mention that those motors can draw a lot of amps.

doesnt apply to lithiums and deep cycle lead acid batteries. Lithiums have a consistent profile, you can fully charge and discharge them, but as you said controllers have a reserve. The reserve is there for safety as overcharging/discharging lithium is unsafe, however doing so also coincidentally improves battery life. Many brands would want you buying often, so they'd rather have a low life battery but they cant do that without risking the user experience and safety of their product. Batteries wear out as the barrier between electrolytes and the cathode and anode break down as the purpose is to only allow electrons to flow, but not the molecules as the reaction would be severe. This is why lithiums explode when you overcharge/discharge the battery itself as the barrier breaks down so the internal chemicals can touch and react.

if you need a lot of ram and dont need the real time performance of ram, for instance perhaps you have a web server, i think this is one place where optane would save you a lot on having to buy ram. Think of database caches and so on, that instead of having to use ram you can use optane instead.

The way that lithium ions work as a battery isnt what people think. Any battery when empty readily accepts voltage compared to when full so you can actually trickle charge non rechargeable batteries, this part the video got right, but everything else it got wrong. Lithium ions are designed to be fully charged and discharged 500 times before losing capacity. If you charge and discharge your battery only half way, then after 1000 times will capacity be start to be lost. Capacity is also lost from age as well so even if you use just 30% of capacity you're not actually going to get 1500 charge cycles (not full) till the capacity starts to drop as age sets in first. You might as well just charge it from empty to full each time.What the video showed was charging it up so frequently that you'd be using a powerbank, thus draining that powerbank instead. My advice is that you should just make the best use of your phone to avoid charging it from flat everyday. As i mentioned previously my samsung galaxy s4's battery lasted 5 years and only lost a bit of capacity towards the end , the battery still works fine but i switched to a larger high capacity battery knowing i'd need to use it a lot more where i went. If you want your phone's battery to last long then try optimising the power use so you charge it once every 2 to 3 days, or charge it from half or low everyday. have a shortcut to turn off GPS, wifi, etc for when you dont need them. Get rid of those horrible laggy social apps like facebook from your phone, go through the settings and use something like greenify and set yourself to check social when you want and not whenever a message comes through. Every chipset is different in the way they draw power so they can be different to optimise. What truely harms battery life is heat, charging it too fast and drawing out a lot of amps from it. Fast charging doesnt harm battery life because it charges based on the battery profile which is fast when its flat, slow when its near full. Even the battery percentage devices shown can be a lie as well depending on how one defines the percentage. Remember that unlike other batteries, lithiums dont care when you charge them from their capacity, so if you charge them from 50% use everyday it is the same as charging up from 0% every 2 days. You can also leave your device plugged in as that wont wear out the battery. Many devices have a smart enough controller to allow discharge to avoid losing battery life when plugged in with the battery not being used (its why on your laptop you dont see your battery charging at its rated capacity as discharge was allowed when left full). @LinusTech This video of yours was absolutely horrible. Please spend time around EEEs and do some research, i know you do some research but i think you hit wrong info. edit: there are people out there who use crappy phones or batteries with crappy controllers (or none) or cheap chargers. While those devices are more of a minority they arent exactly safe and need manual care in regards to charging/discharging. Although apple tunes their batteries to stuff more capacity rather than longevity so i guess you can say that they are in this same set of devices as well. Lithium ions do a lot better than other battery types in being consistent, however they arent the best battery when it comes to drawing a lot of amps which is why cars still use lead acid batteries or super capacitors where a lot of amps need to be drawn. This is why not drawing a lot of power at once is the best thing for your battery life so try not to game heavily on batteries.

i want to clarify and clear a big misunderstanding. A lot of battery and battery controller manufacturers can tweak their batteries. For instance in the past apple used to tweak their batteries to have the maximum capacity at expense of life. This is why apple batteries would die quicker. A lot of manufacturers actually know about battery charging and discharging, the thing about lithium ion is that it is consistent. How much you charge and discharge equally wears it however there is a minimum life (500 cycles) and if you treat it well you can get up to 1000 cycles. For instance my samsung galaxy s4 lasted for 5 years on stock battery because after tweaks i charged it from empty to full every 3-5 days. Following the minimum cycle before it wore out, 3*500 cycles is 1500 days, so more than 4 years before it started to lose its capacity. Think about electric/hybrid cars too, the purpose of the controller is to control the charge/discharge so that the battery performs consistently and will last as expected. It doesnt really make a difference between discharging fully and charging and only partial with lithiums if the battery controller considers 80% the max charge. It is very dependent on the battery controller.

totally fine, as long as 2 specific wires for the PSU arent shorted (on button) you will be fine. I've pulled out cards from a running PC, you dont damage the port or card either.

only some electronics can get spoilt by static electricity. One of the things that board manufacturers can do is test for static discharge with a special tool that can provide a high voltage static usually with computers you just long press the power button as its connected to a PSU without being plugged in to discharge the board (The PSU is needed for this)