Jump to content

JJTortilla

Member
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About JJTortilla

  • Birthday Jan 30, 1991

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    JJTortilla

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seneca SC
  • Interests
    Formula SAE, College, computers, and a whole lot more!
  • Biography
    I'm a tall, random guy
  • Occupation
    Engineer... soon? Still in college

System

  • CPU
    i7-6800k
  • Motherboard
    Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3
  • RAM
    4x8GB DDR4-2400 G.Skill Ripjaws V Series
  • GPU
    Asus ROG STRIX-GTX1070-08G-Gaming
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    1TB Corvair Blue HDD 2x512GB Samsung 850 Pro SSD and 256GB M.2 Samsung 950 Pro
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860
  • Display(s)
    Samsung 27" 1440p
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i v2
  • Keyboard
    K120
  • Mouse
    ROG mouse
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

JJTortilla's Achievements

  1. Cool, I'll give the 3M tape a go. Thx for the help. Also yes, it is an odd choice, but so are a lot of things about this little laptop. I don't even really use it for gaming, but the IPS panel 4k screen makes youtube, hulu, and netflix look amazing!
  2. Hey guys, long time no see, anyways I got a bit of a pickle here was hoping there was some suggestions in here about it. I got a little ASUS laptop that I'm hoping to swap the M.2 SSD in for a 1 or 2TB one next year since this is my school laptop and I'm graduating this summer. You know, clean slate and all. Anyways, the rubber feet are starting to fall off and its really pissing me off, originally they were held on by some sorta double sided tape washer. I would glue them right back on no problem except there are screws under the feet that hold on the back panel which I need access to next year to replace the ssd. Anybody here have suggestions about a tape or glue that will hold ok, but is otherwise easily removable? Id rather not have to chisel away glue to get at the last screw holding the backplate on.
  3. Well thx M. Yurizaki. We sent it in today, looks kinda like an xbox 360. lolz. Anyways, I might build it anyways depending on the quote I get for the heat sinks as its pretty perfect for my Asus G501JW. I'll throw a picture of it with the shell and side panel hidden so you can see the basic design. Turned out pretty simple with just heat pipes out to heat sinks and a couple fans. Probably going to add some Reinforcement in the middle to bear the weight, but I can do that later. SUPER expensive, but we weren't supposed to make a cheap one. lolz
  4. Hey guys, So I didn't really know where to go with this, but my mind drifted here and so I figured I might as well ask. For a project for my heat transfer class we are designing a laptop cooler, you know, those gimmicky things with usb powered fans. I'm thinking, dumb dumb dumb, blah blah blah, but then the professor says don't worry about making it cheaply, you have to incorporate a heat pipe into the design. Now I'm excited, but I need some real world data, that is what I'm asking for. If anyone out there has a temp gun and Aida 64 that doesn't mind helping a guy out, I'm hoping to get locations of hot spots on the bottom of the laptop and how hot they get. We are designing to keep a 6x6in section of the bottom of the laptop at 60C (roughly, the design hasn't been flushed out yet but the contact pad with the bottom of the laptop is supposed to be in the center), but if most laptops have hot spots off to the sides then our design would be pointless. Also, my laptop has a nice flat bottom to get contact with barring the 4 rubber stand offs at the corners, but we did notice most laptops have strange uneven bottoms, or even grip strips going along the whole length of the bottom raising the whole laptop out of contact (dang it Dell!) I was wondering how common is this on 15.6" models (we are designing for 15.6" and smaller as we assumed an additional external cooling solution wouldn't help a 17")? I don't know if anyone will help out or even how to collect the data, I guess I'll just browse through the comments or maybe create a strawpoll or something later. Thanks to anyone that helps out! And if you have any ideas about better contacting a wider range of weirdly shaped laptops I'd love to hear it! Here is a quick poll I made of the bottom shape question. Thanks for the help guys! http://www.strawpoll.me/13418058
  5. Yeah, I've seen a few builds particularly for the original xbox 360, and one media PC that didn't have a graphics card in an xbox 360 slim, but this one was going to be hopefully all the parts in the list above to make a pretty nice gaming rig. I think I can fit the gpu on top of the mobo if I do a VERY custom water loop but I don't think I can fit the radiator I would need in the bottom with the form factor PSU that I can find. Even though no overclocking will happen I don't really want to undervolt too much and I'd be saving space by going watercooled as far as the volume the card and CPU heat sink would take up. One option, and since the 360 slim came with a power brick I was considering it. Get some cable mob cables and do a fully modular external power supply. That would allow me to use the entire bottom end of the slim for a radiator. Thinking a dual 80mm radiator would do it since it won't be turned up that high. That would leave a little room for the reservoir and pump, maybe hack out the back and put an all in one reservoir and pump just under the IO which will be up as far as possible on the back of the case, and put in a dual 92mm rad. I don't know for certain yet, but I'll probably be opening this thing up and getting better measurements of the space I can use this weekend or next.
  6. Hey guys, I'm kinda new to the forum, but I've built a few computers now and I'm getting the itch to attempt something crazy. I used to love sitting down on the couch and playing my games on my console, It was awesome to me at the time, but now I pretty much hate everything about consoles and am strictly a PC gamer. That being said, it would be AMAZING if I could convert an old console to a PC! Also I was sorta inspired by the ridiculous water cooled PS4 video the other day. I don't use my 360 slim anymore, and its one of the coolest looking consoles I've ever owned. So I thought, hey maybe I could turn it into a PC like those tiny ones Linus is always playing around with. This is what I have so far, the budget is probably no higher than $2000, its really a question of fitting and more so cooling it that I'm stuck on. PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TJNrcc Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TJNrcc/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($236.98 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($110.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($304.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini ITX OC Video Card ($369.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($87.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1210.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-03 00:00 EDT-0400 Side note: I live in South Carolina in case that means anything. The dimensions for the slim found on ifixit's teardown are 10.38in x 10in x 2.63in I was thinking if worse comes to worse I could have an external radiator/pump assembly and water cool it, water cooling might be the preferred method. If ya'll got ideas I'd be super open too it as I'd really use this almost interchangeably with my other PC.
  7. Solved, most recent BIOS update fixed it. Now computer keeps shutting off and rebooting, RMA PSU and go from there. Thx for the help guys
  8. sidenote, just got off the phone with Intel, and after they tried to sell me the tuning plan thing, they had no explanation either. Although they did mention that the X99 Sabertooth mobo that I have isn't on the list of official motherboard support. Sooooo.... maybe Asus just hasn't gotten around to it on this board?
  9. So, I just got off the phone with Asus a little while ago and after much fiddling about we found out that I have all the current drivers, bios, and Asus tools that I should need. Then I was promptly told that they don't have official overclocking support, duh, and they proceded to do some research for me. Interesting, I said sure whatever. The guy told me my i7-6800k, my unlocked processor was blocked from the factory to go over its max turbo boost of 3.8GHz.... Now I know I've seen other people overclocking this chip so that can't be right. Anyways, to sum it all up. Yes I have current drivers and BIOS, no I have not figured out my issue.
  10. Here are pictures of the BIOS, lemme know if ya'll need more. I'mma be playin Kingdom: New Lands 160913215504.BMP 160913215516.BMP 160913215536.BMP 160913215554.BMP
  11. I know I checked the bios, it was the latest out of the box. I'm pretty sure I updated all the drivers as well, I'll triple check when I get home
  12. Will do in a bit. At school, I'm using cpu-z as well as the aida plot for cpu clocks. I've run aida 64 for twenty minutes with the cpu clocks maxing out at 3.8 despite cpu-z reporting the multiplier set at 42. I've also run fire-strike extreme and time spy. Cinabench. I ran realbench as well (I think that's what it's called). Again I'll post screenshots when I get home. Thanks
  13. Hi guys, This is my first build that I did for myself. Its got a couple issues I'm working out, but it works wonderfully and I'm incredibly impressed by the performance so far. However, the plan when buying the chip and board, was to overclock to 4.0-4.2GHz. So I tried to overclock the chip. No matter what I do it absolutely refuses to overclock. It reaches 3.8GHz and simply sits there. The multiplier is still set to 42 at the moment and I've had the voltage turned up past 1.3V. My system never crashed and never seemed unstable. It thermal throttled once because the Noctua fan wasn't spinning on the radiator but I fixed that and again it absolutely refuses. I've looked through motherboard settings and tried to figure it out, but I simply can't find out why it won't break 3.8. I made sure that I have the current BIOS and I did out of the box. I haven't had any issues with the system at all actually, but it simply refuses and its pissing me off. I'm opening it up to put in the 850 pros this weekend and to redo all my fan headers so if I need to crack it open it'd be nice to know sooner rather than later. All and any help at all is greatly appreciated. Build is posted in the link below for full parts list. PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/cq9XkT CPU: Intel Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH X99 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan Case Fan: Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-13 01:00 EDT-0400
×