hotbrass

If they are stolen or not legitimate then Microsoft would be taking them out of service.  They are not.  They are legitimate OEM keys.  And I have gotten support from Microsoft when my motherboard died from leaking AIO liquid cooler and I called Microsoft support and they gave me a code to reactivate my key to work with a new motherboard.  And they never asked where I got my OEM key and the reactivation code is good forever.  I can switch anything, any part, or reactivate my key on a new computer if I want.
 
And no they will not answer support questions about specific hardware or software like they might do with a retail OS.  OEM's are supposed to support the systems they sell or build.
 
Of course your mileage may vary.
 
This is such a dead horse I cant believe people still have questions.  You can buy keys on ebay and we all know that if Microsoft wanted they could turn that off in a second.  Call Microsoft if you want to know if the oem key is legit.  But you have to buy it to find out.
 
I'm done.
 
Carry on.

Or get a USB Ethernet adapter

I have the same problem now after installing windows 1809 yesterday.  I never installed a mouse driver, its a usb mouse just plug and play.  Scrolling works on all other pages that I have used except Windows Settings.
 
Thanks!

Well lets take a look at my first question.  Why are there so many versions?  I assume that Win 10 Pro versions 1703 and 1809 are just as secure in their updates. 
 
And is there in advantage to staying with one version over another?  Pros?  Cons?

necro

Yes.  Biocide is Petra's Tech Nuke PHN Concentrated Biocide.  Dye is Bitspower Deep Red Dye.  Distilled water is from Walmart.
 
I have not explanation as to why the dye lost its color.  The system is perfectly clean, like new and runs great. All I can figure out is it just degrades with age and use.  RGB lights on it all the time could also have something to do with it but I dont know.  That is why I inquired.  Will see how long it lasts.

It leaked. The experience ended any trust I have in AIO cooling. It was a very expensive lesson.  I think it may have damaged my CPU also.  It runs well now but I had some problems with it even in a new mobo after the first mobo fried. I have three computers with custom water cooling loops and I have more confidence in them since I connected each fitting and picked each part.  After doing some research, all AIO coolers have reported leaks, some more than others.  So I would never recommend any AIO cooling.

Black is the most efficient heat absorbing color.  And it is also the most efficient heat radiating color.  Color aside, the type of paint is important also.  Some types of paint are more efficient at thermal transfer than others.  Flat as opposed to glossy, and metallic as opposed to plastic, will get the job done better.

i haven't seen any other reports other than that initial one on the wan show. even if it is an issue as long as it works initially i don't mind.
 
as for overclocking ill let the XFR deal with that initially maybe go for a manual one later if i have some free time to dial one in.
 
also thought i would add that the Asus Crosshair VI Hero supports am3 coolers.
 
if you look at the AM4 mount you should notice a second set of holes for older am3/+ coolers
Crosshair Vi Hero

Hey all a quick update,
I was able to finish up the loop in the case and get it up and running but I wasn't able to take too many photos at the moment and I have some more mods left to do so for now I'll just leave you all with a sneak peak.
 

 

 

Part 2

Hey all, I've decided to try a scratch Build. I've been planning it for a while now and I've been able to start it. I wanted to make a simple, clean case that allows for easy liquid cooling integration. I've posted this on another forum and I wanted to see what kind of feed back and critiques I can get.
 
Completed Pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Computer Components
[CPU] - Intel i7-4960X
[GPU] - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970
[MB] - Asus Rampage IV Gene
[RAM] - Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB
[PSW] - Corsair RM1000
 
Liquid Cooling Components
[RAD] - Hardware Labs Nemesis GTX 280
[GPU Block] - Ek-FC970 GTX ACX – Nickle
[Fittings] - Ek Black
[Pump] - Aquacomputer D5 Pump (Ek Top)
[Monitoring] - Aquacomputer aquaero
 

This is the initial Model of the Case made in Solidworks
 

Finished product after water cutting and bending
 

Back Panel
 

Rad Cover
 

Motherboard + Tray, with acrylic cover
 

Acrylic Sides for the Rad Box
 

The Back Panel is installed with metal bars
 

Side of the Rad Box
 

Other side of the Rad box with the Acrylic Side
 

Here you can see the front of the Rad Box
 

Motherboard Tray installed
 

Back of the Motherboard
 

Here is the overview of the assembly
 

Where the Rad, Pump, and PSU would go
 

With the Acrylic Side
 

Front of the assembled case
 

Motherboard placement
 

Flow rate Monitor and Pump
 

Pass-throughs with Side Acrylic
 

Without Acrylic
 

Back of the case
 
After the Power Coating:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you to everyone that followed and commented on the build, it made the process all the better!
 
The build is now complete, and I have just finished assembling the system. Cable management in this build turned out to be quite a challenge but worth it in the end, I also like that the PSU is half the length of the case.












 
Here is a HD Imgur album link for the above pictures http://imgur.com/a/QBVi1
If you want to keep up with my builds and projects I'm at;
Instagram @WillyDijo
Facebook WillyDijo
Twitter @WillyDijo
 

Since last update I have been painting the cases aluminium. I had quite a setback in that I used "Paint + Primer" paint and after I finished the paint then started to assemble the case I found the paint did not stick to the aluminium, and I had to scrape, thinners and sand all the paint off and start again.



Ford Octane Orange is the orange I'm using and also flat black.

I've still got a bit of paintwork to touch up, then its build photos.