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Chaftalie

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  1. Like
    Chaftalie got a reaction from GertBreynolds in Wiring HDMI and Power into single USB-C cable for external monitor   
    I can't say anything about signal quality, I do not know if HDMI will work after soldering it to an breakout board. Which resolution and refreshrate are you planning to use?
     
    If I am interpreting it right, you want to power your monitor over the USB C Cable, which does not make a lot of sense, because your Laptop probably can't deliver that kind of power. (At least I never heard about a Laptop which can output Power with PD)    
    EDIT (I just read somewhere that some/most Laptops can use their PD port to charge other things with PD):
    powering your Monitor with your Laptop would need something like: https://www.tindie.com/products/oxplot/stusb4500-compact-breakout/
     
     
    The other way around, charging your Laptop with your monitor makes more sense (at least for me) you would need a PD Module in the Monitor, which can negotiate with you Laptop how much power the laptop needs. There is a big Problem there, your laptop probably needs a powerbrick with more than 100W (max for USB-C, Dell has some USB-C power adapters with 130W, but with that they are stretching the USB-C spec a little.) so it won't charge with that solution. (I think your Laptop needs 180W)
     
    EDIT2:
    What I did not think through, is that in any way, you have to split your cable at your laptop to get the HDMI out.
    What you could do to eliminate that, you can use a standard USB C to HDMI adapter t your Monitor and somehow get USB PD working over that
  2. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to LukeSavenije in How many watts do I need? 2.0 (Intel 10/Nvidia 3000 series update)   
    Introduction:
    By the popular concept of @Aniallation, who since retired from the forum, the "How many watts do I need" is still one of the most asked question by many people wanting to build a PC. By similar methodology, here a simple guideline to how much your PC would need, assuming the quality of the PSU itself is good. These numbers are estimations based off a stress maximum load, one you will likely never reach in normal use. Take these numbers as a guideline, but feel free to ask on the forum itself if you're still not sure what you need with your exact configuration.
     
    Methodology:
    CPU+GPU+50=estimated wattage, chosen worst case out of the configs
     
    Low-end APU system:
     
    Midrange APU system:
     
    Low-end gaming:
     
    Midrange gaming:
     
    Mid-high gaming:
     
    High-end gaming:
     
    High-end 3080 gaming:
     
    High-End 3090 gaming:
     
    Low-end hedt/tr:
     
    Midrange hedt/tr:
     
    High-end hedt/tr:
     
    Ultra high-end hedt/tr:
     
    CPU power consumption:
     
    GPU Power Consumption:
     
    License
     
  3. Agree
    Chaftalie got a reaction from leadeater in Looking for a type of server cable?   
    There are also cables which directly convert to USB, if your PC doesn't has a RS232 Port:
     
    https://www.amazon.de/Cisco-Console-Cable-USB-RJ45/dp/B01N1625DE
     
    But I never used such a cable.
  4. Like
    Chaftalie got a reaction from Fasauceome in Really hard problem, no one could help me so far!   
    If you open the PSU (what I cannot recommend if you do not have any electrical background)
    do NOT touch any exposed metals. do NOT touch the underside of the PCB, the caps can still be charged with mains voltage
    and touching that can be lethal!
  5. Agree
    Chaftalie reacted to DailyProcrastinator in The fans on my MSI prestige go from 0-100, and it still gets really hot.   
    Welcome to the forum! 
     
    I would see what your temps are like before exploring the option of possibly adjusting your fan curve or undervolting. Use HardwareMonitor to record a session and see what your temps get up to, for longevity purposes undervolting probably isn't a bad idea as it will decrease temps and battery load. 
  6. Like
    Chaftalie got a reaction from Eigenvektor in Folding@Home auto on/off with external Signal   
    Thanks a lot for that info!
  7. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to Eigenvektor in Folding@Home auto on/off with external Signal   
    The "FAHControl" program has the ability to control all kinds of things over port 36330 on remote systems. So yes that is possible, you just have to read a bit into their protocol.
     
    Here's an intro to their API: https://github.com/FoldingAtHome/fah-control/wiki/3rd-party-FAHClient-API. If you look around a bit, there should be libs for some programming languages.
     
    ~edit: If you get the signal on the same machine the client is running, it's probably easier to use their CLI, e.g.
    ./FAHClient --send-pause ./FAHClient --send-unpause  
  8. Agree
    Chaftalie reacted to Tristerin in I told my brother that I'm going for a Ryzen 3600 and he told me this... Is it true?   
    A lot of bad information overall in this thread.  
     
    1.) You cant go Quad Channel with Ryzen 3000 (or Intel consumer products afaik)
    2.) Single Channel (1 stick) is performance degradation on both platforms
    3.) Almost all of AMD product line-ups are overclockable, highly recommended from me
    4.) Your brother has no idea what he is talking about
    5.) A iGPU (integrated GPU) will only work for doing Netflix and stuff.  Some games like Pinball will work fine with it but overall its not a GPU (built in graphics display on intel).  If you are not building a gaming rig, then go with AMD APU's, still a much better offering than Intel atm.
  9. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to dalekphalm in Cat Cable pricing   
    Indeed - the realistic answer is that Cat 5e is still sufficient for the needs of 90% of home networks - even ones wired and installed properly into the walls w/ wall jacks, etc.
     
    With that in mind, you basically only want to wire your house once, since it's kind of a bitch to do (alas, if only it was standard practice to run empty conduit to every room during home construction), and can be somewhat expensive.
     
    So, due to that, if Cat 6a is a relatively small price upgrade from Cat 5e - you might as well.
     
    Note, Cat 7 and Cat 7a are only recognized by the IEC.
     
    TIA/EIA (the standards body that standardizes the other Cat ethernet cables, like Cat 5/5e/6/6a, etc) does not recognize Cat 7/7a as a standard. Does that have any practical implications? Not necessarily, but it's still important to note.
  10. Like
    Chaftalie reacted to vanished in Home network   
    That seems reasonable to me if you don't need anything weird or fancy.  The provided modem is fine if it's giving you sufficient speed, and you can expand the number of ports available with a simple switch.  Should be $50 or less unless you need a crazy number of ports.  Then just a bunch of cable and go to work.  With a setup like that, there's not really anything technical to do in terms of configuration, etc.  it's just a physical job of actually running the wire.
     
    One recommendation would be to install Cat 6A or better so you're set for 10 Gbit.  It's starting to catch on and in 5 or 10 years you'll really wish you had done it if you don't, especially since I doubt the cost is even significantly different.
     
    As for brands, personally I would avoid D-link at all costs.  We've tried two different products from them (a router and a webcam) and been extremely disappointed in both and ended up returning them shortly thereafter, but that's just a sample size of one so take that as you will.
  11. Agree
    Chaftalie reacted to Windows7ge in Win 10 Reinstall but no Setup   
    Are you sure it performed the re-install or did it fail and bring you back to your old login page?
    Do you have a Microsoft account on this machine? If you didn't do a fresh re-install but used a built-in option that just deletes your files it's possible it's using your Microsoft account/password.
  12. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to mariushm in SUB 3.0 Type A internal pin   
    Vbus gives 5v to the usb 3 port that's on that vertical row of pins.
    If you look at the picture, you'll see each vertical row of pins belongs to one of the USB 3 ports, they're just offset by one pin for keying purposes (so you don't plug the connector the wrong way around)
     
    So yeah, you can plug it in, just one usb port won't work. You can try to insert a pin or a wire in the plug and connect the other end of the wire to that other Vbus pin with lots of care to not touch the other pins in the row.  This way you'll get power in both usb 3 ports.
     
    An alternate way to fix it is like this... see picture below :
    Basically, use some fine strand wire, one or two strands of wire from let's say some power cable or some network cable, and insert them between the two holes. In the picture, the yellow is the fine strands of copper.
     
    Where you have the broken pin, insert some broken pin or some bit of solid core wire into the hole, so that the thin strands of copper are fixed and making contact with the metal inside the hole.
    On the other hole that has pin on the motherboard, when you insert the connect in the header, those fine strands of wire will make contact with the header pin and the tiny strands will be thin enough that they won't damage anything... so now power will be sent through those fine strands of copper into the other usb port's 5v power
    The fine strands of copper will not be able to carry a lot of power, but the length of the wire is short enough that it should be fine ... worst case scenario the thin strands will act like a fuse and simply break if the usb device consumes too much power.
     
     

     
  13. Agree
    Chaftalie reacted to MeatFeastMan in Used GTX 1080 or new RTX 2060   
    Is a new RX 5700 an option? Otherwise, the 1080 slightly beats the 2060 by a whisker while having 2gb extra vram, so I'd get that if I had to choose.
  14. Agree
    Chaftalie got a reaction from WikiForce in Laptop ssd speed   
    no, every Laptop is compatible with every SSD aslong as they have the same interface for example:(sata or m.2 nvme)
  15. Like
    Chaftalie got a reaction from Ben17 in Which function generator should I buy?   
    I will get an oscillioscope in the next few days (the Siglent SDS1104X-E)
    Now I also need/want a function generator:
    at least 40Mhz 2 Outputs (probably not needed, at least not for my current Projects) PC Software (which works out of the box with win10 or Linux)  
    My preffered Price range would be 100€ to ~200€ maybe 300€
     
     
  16. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to FunkyHunk in Powermac G4 Ryzentosh/Win10 Gaming Rig   
    Sharing is caring  
    Here you go, for all interested in macOS on AMD cpus: AMD-OSX Forums
    It requires some additional tinkering to get to work on AMD, a little bit extra in contrast to installing macOS on an intel system. 
    Also, Nvidia drivers for macOS is not released for Mojave yet, so if you want 3d acceleration in the OS you have to stick to High Sierra for now. 
    This is the guide I followed to install macOS 10.13.3 on my computer:  INSTALL AND POSTINSTALL OF HIGHSIERRAAMD V3 UNOFFICIAL
    You also have to do a separate guide to install Nvidia web drivers to get a nvidia gpu to work on macOS. 
    Most AMD gpus work fine natively in macOS. 
     
  17. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to Fasauceome in Need a good PSU   
    I would absolutely not put an S12II with a Vega GPU.
  18. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to Zando_ in Need a good PSU   
    ^^^ I have the 620 Evo, never ran it with my Vega cards, too scared to. IIRC it's still running on a 10+ year old design and isn't too reliable so I haven't trusted it with my beefy hardware for a good long while, it just sits in a bin now. 
  19. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to Fasauceome in Need a good PSU   
    It's unfortunate that Seasonic has a reputation now with bad transient response, the only Seasonic unit I'd trust with Vega is a Prime and that's not exactly budget friendly.
    That would be a suitable choice.
  20. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to Zando_ in Need a good PSU   
    Yeah. The bitfenix you recommended sounds good, corsair also has a bunch of solid PSU lines, the CX/TX/RM, etc PSUs. 
     
    Yes. TXM units are awesome. Semi-modular, very quiet, really reliable. Have one in a watercooled rig for a friend with a 6700K and R9 290X, Hasn't had an issue in nearly 2 years of running with basically no maintenance, I think it's been dusted out once? Still doesn't make any noise at all too. 
  21. Agree
    Chaftalie reacted to Mihle in Brand name   
    I personally would like it better if it was all one colour, or maybe ring one colour and letters another....
  22. Agree
    Chaftalie got a reaction from Origami Cactus in Where can I buy hardware in bulk?   
    Just go to your local retailer.
     
  23. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to FRSHPRNCFBLR in Stock AMD cooler uses Thermal Adhesive WTF? (2200G)   
    That sounds like the thermal paste dried up. Disconnect the cpu fan and let the cpu and thermal paste warm up. 
     
    Then carefully twist the cooler from side to side. 
     
  24. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to mariushm in Stock AMD cooler uses Thermal Adhesive WTF? (2200G)   
    Simple... just run the pc for a while then shut down, unlock the cooler and gently twist it left and right by a tiny amount while the heatsink is still warm/hot, to loosen the thermal paste. Don't pull straight up, because you risk pulling the cpu with the heatsink out of the socket.  It's a ZIF socket, zero insertion force socket, and there's just a small amount of friction force sideways keeping cpu locked in when lever is pressed down, so if you pull too hard up, you can beat those friction forces and pull the cpu out.
     
  25. Informative
    Chaftalie reacted to porina in Stock AMD cooler uses Thermal Adhesive WTF? (2200G)   
    It is normal... just the suction effect of the paste being strong enough to rip it out of the socket. Seasoned tinkerers would run a load to warm it up before removing, but that's a little late now unless you can remount it with the cooler attached? Otherwise, gently warm it up (e.g. hair drier) will make it easier to slide the CPU carefully off.
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