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jonnyGURU

Member
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  1. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from KnightSirius in Is active PFC UPS crucial for gaming pc?   
    Wow.. This thread is a mess.
     
    I think you mean PFC.   Pretty sure all UPSs have APFC for their charging circuits.  If it didn't, it wouldn't make any difference.
     
    I think you mean either a pure sine output UPS or an online UPS (opposite of an offline or line interactive UPS which are passive, e.g. only provide power to the PC when the mains goes down.
     
    MOST, if not all modern, PSUs work just fine with PSUs with APFC.  Think about it.  In the EU, PFC has been mandatory for 10 years.  90% of consumer UPSs are simulated side wave (aka step wave, etc.) and nobody is returning their UPSs in droves.
     
    Precisely.  If the old UPS didn't have a pure sine wave output and worked with your PSU, it wouldn't all of the sudden decide not to work with another UPS with simulated sine wave.
     
    Precisely.  Wattage rating is usually about 60% of the VA rating because they'll take into account that you MAY NOT BE using an APFC device and therefore, will subject the UPS to a higher VA.  A 600VA UPS is usually only capable of supporting about 350 to 400W.
     
     
  2. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from KnightSirius in Suggestions on Pure sine wave UPS?   
    That's not true.
     
  3. Funny
    jonnyGURU reacted to nox_ in Where in the back?   
    What?
  4. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Ankerson in Replacing Caps in my Power Supply   
    I mean.. he's working on a shag rug.  That's the first warning sign right there.
     
    I'm noting some cheap stuff on a single layer PCB, so I'm going to say it's a cheap unit that I wouldn't  bother with in the first place.
     
    I mean, Teapo SC's aren't bad caps, but they failed for a reason.  Poor thermals?  Bad design?  We can only guess.
     
  5. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from WereCat in Replacing Caps in my Power Supply   
    I mean.. he's working on a shag rug.  That's the first warning sign right there.
     
    I'm noting some cheap stuff on a single layer PCB, so I'm going to say it's a cheap unit that I wouldn't  bother with in the first place.
     
    I mean, Teapo SC's aren't bad caps, but they failed for a reason.  Poor thermals?  Bad design?  We can only guess.
     
  6. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from ShrimpBrime in Computer Boot loop support   
    Never got to see a GQ 1000 in person.  But I have no reason to believe it's not an ok PSU.  Not "great", but not "bad".  Personally, not something I with such high end hardware.
     
    I will say I note this:  The RAM is RGB and removing two sticks has changed the behavior.  What else is RGB in the system?  RGB fans?  How many?  Could be something as dumb as overloading the +5V.
     
  7. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from CommanderAlex in Replacing Caps in my Power Supply   
    I mean.. he's working on a shag rug.  That's the first warning sign right there.
     
    I'm noting some cheap stuff on a single layer PCB, so I'm going to say it's a cheap unit that I wouldn't  bother with in the first place.
     
    I mean, Teapo SC's aren't bad caps, but they failed for a reason.  Poor thermals?  Bad design?  We can only guess.
     
  8. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Spotty in Do any DC-DC psu not have the full available wattage on the 12v rail?   
    At least that's close.  This Arsegame only has 588W on the +12V and it's a 650W.
     
    Some times you take the +5VSB out of the total and maybe the -12V.  But there should be a HUGE gap... as if they're not including the +3.3V or +5V.  I mean... Those rails get their power from the +12V.  So they wouldn't count as part of the total output power.  Really strange.
     
  9. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Mateyyy in 4 pin psu cpu cable   
    Ok.  Well... make sure you populate all of your PCIe, M.2 and SATA ports as well. 
     
    (joking)
     
  10. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from ShrimpBrime in A total noob needs some help   
    Ok.  So, that's a CX750M, not a CX750.  And it stopped running when pushed at full load when intake temps were at 42°C when the PSU is rated at 40°C.
     
    So.. moral of the story is that context is everything. 
     
    Example: If a PSU has high ripple at 110% load, you don't go telling people that the PSU has "too high ripple".
     
  11. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Dissitesuxba11s in Do all Corsair RM650x PSUs buzz?   
    That's different than what the OP is reporting, but perfectly normal under high loads.  Mine screeches occasionally when running the Catzilla benchmark.
  12. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Gigakv in Seasonic Focus and RTX 3080   
    I don't recall anyone ever saying the ripple is "out of spec".
     
  13. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Johnny999 in Do all Corsair RM650x PSUs buzz?   
    No.  I doubt it.
     
  14. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Johnny999 in Do all Corsair RM650x PSUs buzz?   
    Fixed.
     
    Efficiency and safety requirements over the last five years have caused better PSUs to be more sensitive to line noise.
     
     
  15. Informative
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Johnny999 in Do all Corsair RM650x PSUs buzz?   
    Depends on the mains. 
     
    Most people don't have an issue.  Some people always have an issue. 
  16. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Ligonsker in Which of the following PSUs?   
    I don't see what you see.  He tested at an ambient of 30 to 32°C and only found the B3 and beQuiet System Power to be quieter.
     
    Also, the guy that wrote the review is the same guy that runs Cybenetics and gave the Lambda A rating for noise to the CX550.
     
    That said, we're still talking about PSUs that are not engineered for low noise.  If an extremely quiet CX550 is STILL too loud for you because your case is up on your desk 2 feet from your ear, then you need to stop looking at these sub $100 units and look at something that's actually marketed as a low noise unit.
     
  17. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Ligonsker in Which of the following PSUs?   
    Where? 
     
  18. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Ankerson in A 850W PSU for my first build?   
    I don't agree.  I think you should stick with 850W.
     
  19. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from boggy77 in A 850W PSU for my first build?   
    I don't agree.  I think you should stick with 850W.
     
  20. Agree
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Pitrus in A 850W PSU for my first build?   
    I don't agree.  I think you should stick with 850W.
     
  21. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from Ligonsker in Which of the following PSUs?   
    I would certainly say a Lambda A rating is NOT at all noisy:  ftp://members.cybenetics.report/PDF_Reports/d/cybenetics_CUj_eu.pdf
  22. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from ThinkThankThunk in Which PSU would you go for? [AU]   
    True.  But you know how it goes with PSUs.  It's the last thing anyone ever thinks of replacing.   OP gets a high end graphics card later.  Upgrades the CPU, etc.  and they're still using the same PSU 10 years later because "it works".
     
  23. Funny
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from akio123008 in Have no clue what to do   
    Upon being reminded of my avatar, I changed it as to not offend the many friends I actually have working in the clown car... er... Nvidia.
     
  24. Like
    jonnyGURU got a reaction from marcusrlsouza in Why is my PSU buzzing randomly?   
    No.  UPS only helps if the power goes out.  Even a line-interactive UPS only help if the power needs to be boosted or bucked.
     
    It's not harming your PSU.  But if the noise bothers you, you should get a LINE CONDITIONER.
     
  25. Funny
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