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jonnyGURU

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Everything posted by jonnyGURU

  1. The fact that it's "working" and "on the verge of blowing up" means nothing. Secondary capacitors are filtering out ripple. If the caps can't do that, the ripple goes to your components. Your components are not made to filter out a lot of ripple. Therefore, your components end up dying because you refuse to replace your PSU. Therefore, you end up replacing your entire PC. Good luck.
  2. There is an inrush current relay that "clicks" when you turn on the PSU. Is there a reason to believe that's not what the sound is?
  3. I mean.. he's working on a shag rug. That's the first warning sign right there. I'm noting some cheap stuff on a single layer PCB, so I'm going to say it's a cheap unit that I wouldn't bother with in the first place. I mean, Teapo SC's aren't bad caps, but they failed for a reason. Poor thermals? Bad design? We can only guess.
  4. Never got to see a GQ 1000 in person. But I have no reason to believe it's not an ok PSU. Not "great", but not "bad". Personally, not something I with such high end hardware. I will say I note this: The RAM is RGB and removing two sticks has changed the behavior. What else is RGB in the system? RGB fans? How many? Could be something as dumb as overloading the +5V.
  5. Welp.... Looks like @BLIN29 figured out what they were doing wrong. Case closed. *shrug*
  6. Yeah. Arsegames just popped up on everyone's radar a couple months ago. Nobody knows who they are.
  7. At least that's close. This Arsegame only has 588W on the +12V and it's a 650W. Some times you take the +5VSB out of the total and maybe the -12V. But there should be a HUGE gap... as if they're not including the +3.3V or +5V. I mean... Those rails get their power from the +12V. So they wouldn't count as part of the total output power. Really strange.
  8. When you shut it down, are you just shutting down in Windows or are you "turning off" the PSU either via the UPS power button or the switch on the back of the PSU?
  9. Have no idea what you're talking about. Can you describe what you mean by "resonance"? There's no moving parts in the PSU other than the fan, but if it were fan noise, it would change with fan speed.
  10. Ok. Well... make sure you populate all of your PCIe, M.2 and SATA ports as well. (joking)
  11. Cheap units are 25 to 30°C rated. Good units are 40°C rated. And the best units are 50°C rated. But all PSUs have operating temperatures of up to 50°C. The former number means the PSU can't output FULL CAPABILITY at those temps. There's a derating curve that means the top, continuous power output only works at lower temps.
  12. There is no such thing as a 16 pin PCIe. You use two 8 pin PCIe.
  13. They're only sold in Indonesia these days. Shame really. Used to be a huge brand. Loved their cases.
  14. Ok. I see the 30°C statement on the second page. Jeremy was incorrect. That particular unit is rated at 40°C. And he did get it to run over 40°C, but only for 5 minutes. The fan comment was "second hand information" for Jeremy with no context or source cited. To which he simply answers with: "Me being the curiously insane type of humanoid, I’m especially anxious to see how this one does for me when I test it." I'm not aware of a fan dying in a review sample anywhere, but if you have a link to that, I'd love to see it. Again: The odds of that are < .01%. That would be REALLY BAD LUCK to have a fan die prematurely in a PSU.
  15. I don't know who your second and third quote are. Links help. It doesn't seem to be from the JG review you linked earlier. 1st quote: There is no "non-modular version" of the CX750M. There was only one version of the CX750, and its a completely different platform than any CX750M. 2nd quote: The 1st version of the CX750M was rated at 30°C. That's from 2012. The second version, CP-9020061, which is the one in the review you linked earlier, is rated at 40°C. The de-rating curve happens at FULL LOAD. Meaning that a 750W can't do 750W at over 30°C. That doesn't mean the PSU cannot operate at over 30°C. The actual operating temperature range of that PSU, like most PSUs, is up to 50°C. So... I think you're still trying to make a point? But if you use incorrect information, that point is lost. Again, link? Not saying that fans don't die prematurely, but it happens SO infrequently. Guy "hears" about one fan dying and assumes that they die in a high percentage? Even the cheapest PSU fans are still better quality than most case fans. And how many case fans have you had die?
  16. The 10+18 power connectors on the motherboard go to the 24-pin on the motherboard. It has nothing to do with the the DC connectors on the other side or what they plug into. You are Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy overthinking this.
  17. Ok. So, that's a CX750M, not a CX750. And it stopped running when pushed at full load when intake temps were at 42°C when the PSU is rated at 40°C. So.. moral of the story is that context is everything. Example: If a PSU has high ripple at 110% load, you don't go telling people that the PSU has "too high ripple".
  18. One button is "arm". The other is "ignite". Has to be performed in the correct sequence.
  19. It will run an Intel i740. Maybe a Trident 3D Image 9850.
  20. "Tripping", as in "turning off"? Or is the PC rebooting? How do you have your PCIe power cables run to the graphics card? Three separate cables?
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