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jonnyGURU

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About jonnyGURU

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    Veteran
  • Birthday 1971-01-29

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  1. PSU Disposal Questions

    That's why I said "if".
  2. PSU Disposal Questions

    5 year warranty. You don't need "material" to do an RMA if you need one. You just need the PSU and the receipt.
  3. PSU Disposal Questions

    Shame to see a PSU that's still under warranty get considered for scrap.
  4. PC crashes randomly.

    That PSU is old. Needs to be replaced before it fails completely.
  5. Raidmax or corsair???

    Been trying for the past year. Price just doesn't align.
  6. Raidmax or corsair???

    With recent raw material cost increases that essentially doubled cable costs, material shortages and now a 25% tariff, probably never.
  7. EVGA budget PSU quality

    Not if the unit with DC to DC is still shit even though it has DC to DC. Just yesterday I opened up a TT GX1 600W. It has DC to DC (and falsely claims to have an FDB fan). Check out the size of that 85°C rated Elite bulk cap.....
  8. Then buy a different 24-pin cable. DO NOT use an extension. Maybe even just cut the boot off (if the look of the caps don't bother you too much). I see so many melted pins on extensions and adapters, it makes me sick.
  9. That's typically because it doesn't cost any less to make a lower wattage Gold and higher PSU, so they don't bother. If it costs only $1 less to manufacture a 650W Gold PSU than it does to make a 750W Gold PSU, do you think it makes sense for the reseller to sell a PSU that has the same performance, but 100W less for only $1 or $2 more? And it doesn't have to be "Gold" to be a good PSU. "Gold" is merely an efficiency level.
  10. You shouldn't get a case you don't like. Casse choice is very subjective as its based on personal preference. And it's something you have to look at whenever you're sitting at your desk using your computer. So I certain would never suggest getting an Antec GX200 when you don't even like the way the case looks. As Spotty said, the VS has a 550mm long 24-pin cable which is long enough for 99% of the chassis out there. I would very surprised if it didn't reach when used in that Aigo case. Where did you get the information from that you would need something longer than a 550mm long 240-pin cable? I can also confirm that the CX has a 600mm long cable and other PSUs like the TX-M or RMx are actually 610mm long. But do you think that 50 to 60mm will really make that much difference?
  11. Agree with everyone that it's just the breaker getting overloaded. But you really do have the cheapest PSU possible in there with the worst efficiency ever. If you had something that was more efficient, it would use less power and may not trip the breaker.
  12. It was discontinued by Cooler Master some time ago. I believe the serial number sticker might have a date code on it. RS500AMBADXXXX where the first XX would be the week of the year and the second XX is the year. I believe. Not sure. So here's the thing.... It may actually be more dangerous that the PSU is old and bought recently than if you had owned it and been using it for a long time. Capacitors don't store well unless they are at room temperature and humidity between 30 and 60%. Capacitors poorly stored can be "re-formed", but you can't re-form a capacitor that's already installed inside a PSU. I actually knew a guy that bought a Corsair CS650M only six months ago. That PSU was over two years old. It had sat in a warehouse in Northern Europe at freezing temperatures. That primary cap eventually blew like a firecracker. So yeah... the concern over using old PSUs is a valid one.
  13. Depends on the graphics card... depends on the PSU.... depends on the cable.....
  14. Good quality 400w psu enough for GTX 1070?

    Did you at least order a decent 650W PSU?
  15. Raidmax or corsair???

    That's not how it works. A PSU only puts out what's demanded of it. Nothing more. Typically, higher end PSUs don't come in lower wattages because it doesn't cost any less to make a high-end, say "550W" for example, versus making a high end 850W. So they just don't bother making the 550W variant. For example: It only cost $1 less to make the AX760i versus the AX860i. So instead of having both products on the market at essentially the same price, Corsair discontinued the AX760i and only sell the AX860i. You need to look a little deeper than "brand" and "wattage". Sticking with just Corsair here to keep it simple: Take the suggested Corsair CX450M, for example. It's has a double forward topology and a sleeve bearing fan (while newer models might have a rifle bearing). For the same amount of money, you can get a CX450 (non-M) which is a resonant LLC topology (which is better) and a rifle bearing fan, but is non-modular. But they're both Bronze efficiency and only have a 5 year warranty. The RMx is the next step up, and is a better product over all in that it's Gold efficiency, has all Japanese capacitors, is rated to run at 50°C, has better voltage regulation, lower ripple-noise, is fully-modular and is quieter with a zero RPM fan mode. It also has a 10 year warranty. But the RMx doesn't come in a 450W, so you have to get a 550W. Say you want a better fan like an FDB and the ability to monitor power consumption, voltages, fan speed, etc. via software. Then you would go up to the RMi. But the RMI only starts at the RM650i. You can't even buy a 550W RMi. So yeah... Your system only needs 200W. But if you want to have a better selection of components to choose from, you shouldn't look at wattage FIRST. Look at the features you think you'd want first, the warranty, is it quiet or loud (if that matters to you), etc... .THEN look at the wattage.
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