HungryHamster

I have a temperature monitor on my Corsair AIO LCD screen that tells me the real time temperature of my CPU. I'm wondering which core I should set the reading to. Is Core #1 more accurate than the others or is there a general consensus that when you say "my CPU temp is X" that you are referring to the temperature of a specific core?

My HyperX Quadcast S will sometimes not get powered on when I turn on my new computer. It worked fine on my old PC. What's really strange is that this only seems to happen after long periods between a power off and a power on like when I shut my PC down before bed and then turn it on in the morning. It will only get recognized if I unplug/plug it in again. If I just quickly power it off and power it on, it will still get recognized. This morning even before I powered my PC on I unplugged it and plugged it back in again and it worked so I'm leaning towards this may be some kind of issue with the motherboard and this particular USB device? I've tried different USB ports and the same thing happens. I haven't had any issues with my other USB devices in any of the ports. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for your response. I know the heat build up is worse, but I guess I'm wondering if that's a big deal. I saw some testing from GN and others that tried to get the cables to fail with just a significant bend and when they did thermal imaging on it, it only got up to around 50c while under full load. They never got it to fail that way. I would only start the bend 5mm less than recommended. I can't imagine a lot of people have a case that accommodates 35mm of room before any bend.

I'm installing a RTX 4090 and there's only going to be 30mm of room between it and the case side panel. I have the CableMod cable and they recommend that the bend not get started before 35mm: https://cablemod.com/12vhpwr/ I know pretty much all the incidents of melted cables are due to user error with it not being fully inserted. If I make sure it's fully inserted, do you think I should still worry about having that cable bent up against the glass?

I want to install 2 Samsung 980pro SSDs on the Asus Z790 Hero motherboard. Will this reduce the bandwidth of the PCIe 5.0 slot which is used by the graphics card? I would rather not have to install the ROG Hyper M.2 card. https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-maximus/rog-maximus-z790-hero-model/spec/ I also found this, but not sure how to interpret it: ROG / PROART Intel 700 Series PCIe x16 slot PCIe bifurcation in PCIe x16 slot M.2 SSD quantity ROG MAXIMUS Z790 HERO PCIEX16(G5)_1 1(X16)*/ 2(X8+X8)* PCIEX16(G5)_2 1(X8)*

Does anyone have some experience with getting a custom size mouse pad or could recommend a non-shady website to get one from? I found a few from a Google search, but they ship from China which is expensive and I'm not sure how trustworthy some of these websites are.

If I remember right, JonnyGuru from Corsair recommended a small bit of dielectric grease if you are having trouble getting it to fully connect. You can get some for like $4 on Amazon.

Thanks for the info. I was able to turn it off in the PS5 options menu. For some reason I never had this issue with my TV.

How do I stop my PS5 from turning on every time I turn on my new monitor? I have my PS5 hooked up to the HDMI 1 input and the monitor hooked up to the PC via the Display port input. Every time I turn on the monitor power it powers on my PS5 and defaults to that HDMI output which is kinda annoying. I then have to turn it off and switch to the Display port output.

My new monitor is arriving tomorrow. Can you please link me to some good tools/videos to use to test it out to check for dead/bright pixels, brightness uniformity issues, etc.?

I'm thinking about selling my soon to be old PC and I'm wondering what would be a fair price for it. Here are the parts: CPU: i7-6700k Motherboard: Asus Maximus VIII Formula GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16 GB (2x8) DDR4-3200 CL 16 SSD: N/A AIO: Corsair H110i (needs to be replaced) Case: Corsair 760t PSU: Corsair RM850i Other: ASUS ROG Front Base Dual-Bay Gaming Panel 1 Corsair ML 120 fan I'd prefer to sell it all together except the SSD which I'm going to hold onto. I'm pretty sure the AIO is starting to fail too so I would mention that and wouldn't include that in the price. When I purchased all of this around 6 years ago I believe it was around $4000. Taking a wild guess that a fair price for everything (except SSD and AIO) might be around $500? What do you think?

I think I did try to bend it back, but it was basically snapped in half. I hadn't heard of those transmitters, but that might be a good investment. Thanks.

I'm getting the new Asus PG42UQ monitor and it has a built in option to shrink the display size to 27 inches or 34 inches. I probably won't use it much, but I was just wondering if that would be the same as using a 4k 27 inch monitor? I seem to remember something about pixel density making it look a lot worse than a native 27 inch monitor displaying 4k.

I just found out as of iCUE 4.29 you no longer need to enable SPD write for DDR5 on Asus boards so I won't have anything to worry about.

Damn, that doesn't sound good. I really want to be able to control the RGB on the memory, but I don't want any issues. It sounds like potentially the RGB software could ruin the memory.

That's good to know, but I'm still not sure if this is something that is likely to happen. Like how dangerous is it to disable write protection? Is that only something that would get messed up by a virus or something?

I was reading some reviews for Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR5 6600mHz CL32 and the top review listed the main con as: "On Asus motherboards, requires SPD WRITE DISABLE to be FALSE" What does that mean? Is that a big problem? Can someone please explain.

You're probably right about this. I guess my point is just that with the push/pull configuration that one side still gets some cooling from the fans even though the other side is pretty much completely clogged with dust. I would theorize that my temps would be way worse with fans on just one side and potentially even catastrophically so.

I don't say this with pride, but I didn't clean the radiator on my Corsair H110i for 6+ years. My friend installed it for me and I just always worried about it leaking or breaking if I tried to take it out to clean it. I'm making this post as a testament to the quality of Corsair AIOs and to the advantage of using a push/pull configuration. I credit the push/pull configuration for keeping at least one side of my radiator completely free of dust. I definitely think this extended the life of my AIO and continues to keep my CPU cool to this day (30C idle and always under 70C at full load) even though one side is completely covered in dust. That said, I highly recommend the push/pull configuration. I should also mention that for about the last year my AIO has occasionally been making weird bubbling noises and yet it still hasn't leaked or stopped working. I'm very glad my Corsair radiator has lasted this long running almost 24/7. I'm certainly going with Corsair for my next radiator.

As far as I remember one of the main issues with VA is text when you are scrolling.

Thanks for your response. That's strange because the 16-pin to 2 x 8-pin PCI-e cable included with the PSU is something they just recently started including with the ASUS Thor P2 specifically for the 40 series. ASUS themselves says their cable is capable of 600w. I came across this post on a reddit threat from a Cablemod employee: "Basically, 2x8pin will be enough to power the 4090, but if you want more redundancy by splitting the power output through more connectors for peace of mind, you can do that too." ... "I don't think major PSU brands would come out with a cable dedicated to specific GPUs that can't stand the power output that they're designed for." I'm still a little unsure what that means. If they can both provide enough power, what's the difference? BTW I'm not doing any overclocking so 450w should be fine. I'm definitely not going to use the faulty (and ugly) adapter included with the RTX 4090, but I would consider using the one that CableMod is making if there is a big difference in performance or safety. I would prefer using the ASUS PCIe cable since it wouldn't jeopardize my warranty, though.

I'm trying to understand the difference between these 12VHPWR cables. I've heard that 16-pin to 4 x 8-pin PCI-e cable is better, but I don't know why. Could someone explain? Is it less likely to fail? I'm asking because my ASUS ROG Thor P2 1000w PSU shipped with a 16-pin to 2 x 8-pin PCI-e cable, but CableMod is offering a 16-pin to 4 x 8-pin PCI-e cable.

Good game. I definitely recommend it. I used the flamethrower a bunch and it literally melted my GPU. Hopefully it gets people hyped for Warhammer 40k Darktide which comes out at the end of the month. I saw some people playing the beta for that game with a RTX 4090 and only getting around 60FPS (in 4k).

That Sapphire Nitro card is definitely my style!

Whoops, sorry. That's what I meant. Will edit. I was disappointed the ASUS ROG Strix 4090 didn't look like those! I guess they just ran out of room for RGB on the side.