Leetee

I don't think he's complaining nor hating on it. What he's doing is just asking a legitimate question on a product that noone's really had a chance to see or experience. Its perfectly valid. Given how much it costs, you really want to know the long term details about it.

Its been a long day trying to figure this out so i'm just going to keep it as simple as I can without rambling. I can provide more information as needed. I tried to change the boot drive of my pc from sata ssd (Samsung 500GB) to NVMe (ADATA 1TB). What attempted was to clone the drive using Acronis True Image. I ended up using recommended or automatic and I ended up with the exact copy of the drive onto my adata drive. Meaning my adata drive ended up being 500gb partition with another recovery partition that was almost half the drive instead of 1TB. I wasn't able to extend the drive to get all the usable storage space so after a couple google searches I did it again, except using manual, and selecting "As Is". This time it was similar but i got unallocated space instead of recovery partition, which was a good sign. But when I tried to extend my drive to use the unallocated space, it didn't work somehow and it remained unallocated. Then I was poking around the disk management window, I remembered I right clicked and selected "set as active" thinking it would help somehow to allow me to get the allocated space. Didnt work. I tried rebooting the PC and then I got an error with "Unable to find Operating System". So I couldn't get into windows. At this moment I have my samsung and adata drive connected to the pc. I am unable to boot into either of them due to my mistake from #3 above, but all of the data is still present in the drives. I attempted to remedy this by creating a windows install USB, delete everything on the adata drive, install windows on it, and attempt to fix it through the new install of windows since all the drives are still connected. After installing the new windows and opening up disk management, I figured that because I set the drives to active, The bios wasn't able to find the boot directions somehow which resulted in my problem. So I attempted to reverse the "set as active" by following directions from this link I found here to "unmark a partition as active." Rebooted PC and it did not work. That brings me to now. So this is where I'm currently at: Samsung Drive is connected with all old data on it. Unable to boot into. Adata Drive installed with a fresh windows 10 on it. Able to Boot into What I originally wanted was to migrate everything from my sata drive onto the nvme without any reinstallation or whatsoever. Basically just change out the drive for a faster one with more storage. Now i'm stuck in a weird spot. I do not want to wipe my old drive and just start everything fresh. I'm trying to avoid this because its just too much work, and I'm personally not comfortable with having to reinstall all my programs and getting all my settings back to how I liked them. what I'm think is the solution is to reenable my samsung drive back to booting properly so at least I have that. From there i would clone/migrate my data onto the adata drive and get to my original goal. Is there a solution to this? ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Also something not quite relevant, but something I'd like to know because im curious, i noticed there is a Boot Manager option in the bios boot menu after fresh installing windows. This wasn't there before when I had my samsung and adata drive installed, and I was able to boot into each drive no problem through a boot override. Now that I did the fresh install, I can't boot into the drive directly to get into the fresh windows. It need to go through the boot manager. Is this normal?

Any lights come up on your motherboard? I'm getting a red CPU led when I try

So far I've investigated the led, and its for the CPU. So basically my cpu light comes on when I try to wake my PC from sleep. I doesn't seem like its a GPU problem, but I still have my old one to check.

I recently put together a new PC, but its not waking from sleep properly. When I try to wake it up using my keyboard/mouse, the fans start up, a red led turns on, and my monitor lights up but that's it. Nothing else happens and I have to hold the power button down and force shut down my pc. What's going on? I've tried turning off fast start up, but that didn't work. PC Specs: Windows 10 64Bit Ryzen 3700X Asus ROG Strix B450-I BIOS 19.10.16 PowerColor 5700 XT Dual Fan 2x16 GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Corsair 450W SFX PSU Samsung 850 SSD

Hey that's awesome to hear. Thanks for helping!

Its mostly going to be for playing games, streaming, and some illustration work. My case for this is an NCASE M1, which has ample airflow to cool everything. That being said, I am thinking on this 5700XT since it would fit my case with the least amount of extra stuff needed. But gotta be honest, there's not much information that I could find about this card in particular so if its a bad model, i'll just skip out on the XT. And if there's not much overclocking on those cards, then its fine by me. It just means less to factor in. I just want to get the most out of the card I buy. https://www.microcenter.com/product/611002/powercolor-radeon-rx-5700-xt-dual-fan-8gb-gddr6-pcie-video-card

I'm building an SFF PC, and I have a Corsair 450W SFX Platinum. Initially I was planning on using the PowerColor 5700 dual fan, but there's a discount for the 5700XT version that's $35 more which I'm deciding if its worth it. However my main concern is the title of the post. Is my 450W PSU enough for either cards if I'm OCing both the cpu and gpu? I left the 5700 in the list below, but the prices I would be buying them are: 5700 @ $349.99 5700XT @ $384.99 PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($326.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($74.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($151.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.29 @ Adorama) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 8 GB Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($84.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A9 PWM 46.44 CFM 92 mm Fan ($16.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan ($29.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan ($29.90 @ Amazon) Total: $1224.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-30 19:11 EDT-0400

Thanks, but the storage and case were not in question so i omitted that information out. And in regards to windows key, i'd rather not go the route with a grey area key. They work, but from my experience they don't work for longer than 6 months. I'd rather not have to deal with the license key expiring on me.

I did this with my first PC, and windows invalidated it twice on me after about 6 months. The first time I messaged the guy who sold it to me, and he gave me another key for free. After awhile after that my key got invalidated by windows again. After that i decided to just buy my license. YMMV of course.

Planning a new PC to start fresh as i'm moving to Windows 10. Below are the listed parts I'm thinking about getting for it: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($329.00 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING X Video Card ($284.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($99.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.39 @ OutletPC) Total: $1033.25 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-09 17:18 EDT-0400 1) PC parts picker tells me that my motherboard and CPU are incompatible, which i have a feeling is only because Zen2 just recently launched. I'm assuming its perfectly compatible so let me know if I'm wrong! 2) I know the new 5700 series and Super cards just came out, but those cards all seem to be out of the range of what I'm looking to spend, and that aside I'm primarily playing gonna be doing a lot of photoshop work and as for games i'm mostly playing Final Fantasy XIV which doesn't have super high requirements. The 1660 Ti seems to be a good sweet spot, but that was based on my research before any reviews on the 5700 or Super cards. Is this still the case? My monitor is a 1440p, 60Hz.

I'd rather not use a USB to Wi-Fi adapter, and as for an pci-e/m.2 Wi-Fi, is there a reason for this over having it integrated into the Motherboard? How much cheaper am I looking at if I do this? Prices on https://pcpartpicker.com/products/wireless-network-card/ don't seem to be any different from a Motherboard without wireless. And if its about upgrading the wireless card in the future, i would assume adding a new pci-e/m.2 when the time comes and using that would be no problem. Damn. I wasn't even aware of the Vega 64, thanks for letting me know. I might actually go with this instead, but the only downside to doing this is the need of a new PSU. I currently have a 500w supply, and getting a Vega 64 would mean upgrading that too.

My Current PC is using an i5-4590 w/ H97M MoBo and an R9 380 graphics card, and I'm thinking about upgrading my PC. Windows 7 support is ending soon and since the new expansion for Final Fantasy XIV is coming out late June, I want to do everything now. I want to upgrade my CPU and GPU. Part of the upgrades now are so that I can get great performance and not have to think about upgrading for awhile. The stuff I have now lasted me 4 years, so i'm hoping that these upgrades would last me longer than that. I'm planning on overclocking too, which means i'm gonna need a new MoBo and RAM. That being said, if I can get away with not having to upgrade something because its not going to make a huge difference in performance for me then by all means let me know. This is just stuff I've been thinking about upgrading for awhile now, but I don't have the time to do full research on it. Budget: Budget to upgrade would be around $1000 USD, but I have not kept up with the market trends very much so its not absolute. And because of that, I'm not looking to get the most out of my budget but rather to get best price for a certain performance area. Purpose: Primarily would be to play games and be able to stream them. The game I play the most is FFXIV, which is an MMO. I plan on playing other stuff too, but in terms of demanding games I would say Monster Hunter World and games like Darksouls/Sekiro would be the extent of what I play. I also would be using the PC to do artwork such as Clip Studio Paint and Photoshop, but to my knowledge this stuff isn't demanding in terms of performance. I think RAM is the only thing that matters for this, correct me if I'm wrong. Windows 10: To my knowledge, the free upgrade from Windows 7 to Windows 10 expired long ago. I built my current PC right around the time that upgrade was available but I wasn't ready to commit to Windows 10 since it was still new. Is there any kind of promotion that would let me upgrade for discount/free, or do I just have to buy windows10 license? CPU and Motherboard I'm looking at 2 bundles on Microcenter's website one that's Intel at $530 and the other AMD at $480. Between the two, its a Ryzen 7 2700x or i7-8700k. I don't have much of a preference for which company, and they're pretty much the same from what I gathered so I'm leaning towards AMD because the bundle itself is cheaper by $50. Should I consider the intel's 9th gen CPUs or wait for the next gen of Ryzen processors? I'm not in a rush to upgrade now. I'm estimating around the end of May when I buy this stuff but I don't mind pushing this off until maybe mid July. I expect the response to be to not wait and just buy the available parts now, but I'm not very experienced or in the loop with computer parts and stuff so maybe its better to wait. EDIT 1: Getting a lot of comments about waiting for Zen 2. I'll wait and see how that comes out. As for the motherboard, the only requirement I need is just WiFi. I use a powerline for my current PC but sometimes it randomly loses internet connection and its annoying. It doesn't do it during games, only with general internet use. Having WiFi as a redundancy for that is the plan. Graphics Card: I haven't gotten too far with the planning here. Its just back and forth between the 1660Ti and 2060. Is there anything else to consider here? EDIT 1: I got recommended to get a Vega 64. Seriously considering that over the 2060 and 1660Ti EDIT 2: If I were to get a Vega 64, I would need a new PSU. Currently I have a 500W powersupply, and I could probably still use it if I were to use a 2060 or 1660Ti.

I don't expect the switch to fail. Nintendo has gotten the train rolling really hard to make this console a success. Only reason it can fail is if they repeat the mistakes they did with the Wii U. If they didn't learn the mistakes they made (which doesn't seem like it so far minus the friendcode system) then they may as well fuck up again because you shouldn't make the same mistake twice. At its worst, the switch will have a slow start. The 3ds had a slow start too (Because aside from OOT there weren't too many hard sellers) but its dominating the handheld market. The Vita is only being kept alive because of 3rd party support since Sony has stopped its support. But this is Nintendo, and their software sells. You can expect all the main franchises to come out on the switch. Its the unofficial successor to the 3ds. They may have stated that the 3ds isn't going be dead, but you can't have two handhelds made by yourself in direct competition. It'll be phased out eventually because its still going on strong. Once the switch gains enough praise and success, I predict nintendo to slowly retire the 3DS. I want the switch to be a success too and I can't wait for tomorrow to get mine. People seem to be so hung up on Launch titles and Launch dates etc. But face it, launch lineups always suck. They're never good, which makes the argument a moot point. The only reason the switch has such a great launch game like BotW is because it was in development to be on the Wii U for such a long time. Pushing BotW onto the switch was a good move as frustrating as it was. Its not like 1-2 switch or snipperclips are console sellers.

The friendcode system is a drag. Is it possible to amend this system though? The method I can think of that comes to mind is to add on a username system instead of replacing it because its not like those friend codes are going to go away if some old man made the final decision. We have NNIDs for fucks sake.