willishutch

I'm on ~120V in the US. So I have gotten some different feedback about possible solutions related to the UPS side of things. One poster on another forum told me that I would need a unit with "double conversion online" topology as opposed to the "line interactive" topology that my current unit has. My understanding is that the double conversion type basically has the battery system on all the time, eliminating the lapse in power that occurs when the line interactive type switches to battery power. They suggested this unit, which is a little outside my budget: https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-1500VA-120V/P-SRT1500XLA Another user suggested that a unit with "Sine wave" wave form as opposed to the "stepped approximation to a sine wave" that my unit features. That seems to agree with what johnnyGURUsaid above This model has that feature and fits within my budget much better than the one above: https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/Back-UPS-PRO-BR-1500VA-SineWave-10-Outlets-2-USB-Charging-Ports-AVR-LCD-interface/P-BR1500MS Can anyone here confirm or deny whether either of these would definitely fix my issue?

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. My old EVGA unit is in use in a system that I gave to another family member. I could swap it out and tell them that they're getting an upgrade, but I would feel a little weird about that. I've learned that efficiency ratings don't necessarily correlate with quality. Before I got the Thermaltake unit I also had an equivalently rated unit from Enermax that I discovered was unsuitable for my purposes due to the division of +12V power on multiple rails with limits on each of 480W which wasn't quite enough to run two 250W GPU's on each. These have been some expensive lessons. I ended up giving that one to a friend who was building a new PC as a graduation present. As far as the issue with the sin wave coming out of the UPS, do you have any recommendations for a unit that would solve that issue? I've been looking mostly at PSU's from Seasonic, Corsair and EVGA with Titanium ratings in the 750W to 1000W range. Alternatively, could I solve the issue by getting a better UPS?

I have a UPS, and not a cheap one. Both PC's are connected to it and it has a 900W max output on the battery backup outlets. The links you posted are for surge protectors, not UPS's. Here is the one that I have: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842301561

I have tried that. We used to have the PC's on separate circuits and the problem was still present. The outlet is on a 20A circuit. We did trip the circuit breaker a couple times when I had the quad-GPU setup and we had our microwave was on another outlet on the circuit, but haven't since I downsized. I don't think the problem is the outlet. The grid in my area is notoriously inconsistent, which is the ultimate cause of the issue, but there's not much I can do about that. Further the occurrences of the restarts don't correspond with high power draw from the PC's. We can both play games at the same time without issues and the restarts are just as likely to happen when both PC's are idle at the desktop with nothing open but Chrome, or even when we aren't home.

I live in an area where the power grid is relatively unstable. We experience frequent fluctuations in voltage and occasional outages. Whenever an outage occurs, even if it only lasts a fraction of a second, my PC would restart, but my wife's PC, which has a very similar configuration, would not. The biggest difference between the two PC's is the power supply. We used to both have EVGA 850 G2 units. The problem started a while back when I decided to put four graphics cards (I know, it was stupid) in my system and "upgraded" my PSU to a Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 1200W. I have since gone back to a single GPU configuration, and we recently connected both PC's to an APC Back-UPS XS 1500M. I expected the UPS to alleviate the restarting problem, but it has actually made it worse, since it switches to battery power every time there is a fluctuation in voltage from the wall, and for some reason my PC loses power whenever the UPS switches to battery or back to AC power. What should I do? I was thinking about getting a better PSU to try and fix the issue, but I'm not sure what to go with. I expected the 1200W Platinum unit to be better than the 850W Gold one, but it seems to be the source of this issue. I've mainly been looking at Titanium units in the 750-1000W range and I think I like the Seasonic Prime Ultra 850, but I don't know if that will fix the issue. Should I just go back to the 850 G2? I feel confident that would fix the issue, but I would hate to go backwards in efficiency. Should I try to get a different UPS? If so, what kind? What do you guys think?

So here's my situation: I recently put together a system for my wife to use, built mostly out of spare parts that used to be in my own system before some recent upgrades. The system consists of an FX 9590 on a Gigabyte 990FXA UD5-R5 with an R9 280X from XFX and a EVGA 850 G2 for the PSU all inside a Phanteks Eclipse P400S. The CPU is being cooled by a LEPA Aquachanger 240, with the radiator mounted vertically in the front of the case. Everything is working most of the time, albeit with some relatively high temps in games. After playing something like Fallout 4 for several minutes, both the CPU and GPU report temps in the low 80's in HWMonitor. However, sometimes when the system is left on for a while (and sometimes not that long) the system will just freeze. The screen stays on but the system is completely unresponsive, and desktop apps are visibly halted. Looking into this problem, I found some other people having a similar problem who fixed it by changing some BIOS settings. That was yesterday and so far the random freezing seems to have stopped, but the heat is still an issue. I had most of these components together in another case, with the radiator mounted in the top, a while back, and it was hot, but not like this. I have seen reports of this aio having problems with bubbles in the loop and I was thinking that might be a factor at play in my situation, especially since when the side panel is open I can touch the radiator and one of the hoses is significantly hotter to the touch than the other, and the top of the radiator next to that hose is hotter than the rest of the radiator. I have tried a variety on fan configurations and found the best one to be 2x 120 intake on the top of the case and 1x 120 rear exhaust, with the radiator fans acting as exhaust on the front. However, I think that even this configuration has some significant shortcomings, since the front vents on the case are relatively restrictive and are probably resulting in a significant amount of the exhaust from the radiator being pulled back in, even with the top and bottom vent covers removed from the face plate. Anyway, my main question is whether it would be a good idea to replace the aio, and if so, what would be the best option, given the restrictive front ventilation of the case and the limited placement options elsewhere in the case. I would look into getting a different case, but my wife seems rather attached to this one. I have mainly been looking at the H100i v2 or the H80i v2 from Corsair, but if there are better options, I'm open to suggestions. The consensus seems to be that the larger radiator is more effective, but I was also thinking that the H80, mounted in the rear exhaust slot would help bring down gpu temps as well, and eliminate the feedback loop of hot air from the radiator being mounted in the front. Do you guys think that the H80i v2 could handle an FX 9590 with acceptable temps? Is there something else I could do to try to bring down temps without compromising the aesthetics or dust resistance of the case?

Hoping maybe someone here can help me figure out how to fix this problem. I can connect to wifi, but if I choose the "connect automatically" option, the next time I reboot my system or wake it from sleep, it will say that it's connected to the internet in the wifi panel, but my browser will not load pages and steam will not connect until I manually disconnect fro the network and reconnect. This is a minor annoyance, but it has been going on too long and I've decided to fix it, but can't find any information about this specific problem. I am running Windows 10 with all the latest updates and using a USB wifi adapter. I have included a picture with the driver information for the wifi adapter. I am also using a Centurylink ZyXEL modem/router model pk5001z. If anyone has any ideas about how I can fix this problem, your help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there's any potentially relevant information that I have left out.

I would prefer the blade. Need a solid laptop for college and would love it to be able to do some gaming as well.