Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Goobertron

Member
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About Goobertron

  • Title
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

236 profile views
  1. I use a 60mm thick Black Ice radiator mounted in the top. It works fine for me but depending on your motherboard you might have clearance issues with your 8pin CPU power cable and the I/O if you have the rad ports above it. But generally i think two 360mm rads will be fine for a CPU and single GPU. Get a water temp sensor and just overclock as far as you're comfortable pushing the temps.
  2. Also bear in mind not all 360mm radiators actually fit mounted in the rear chamber due to a stupid design floor in the case. A lot of radiators (mine included) are too wide and they hit the front I/O usb cables. The solution is to mod the front I/O cables but sanding down the plastic/rubber moulding which i can tell you from experience is a massive pain in the ass. There is a list somewhere which says which radiators fit without having to mod. I'll see if i can find it for you.
  3. The light is too poor now for me to take a picture so i'll have to do it tomorrow. With mine i have the side radiator mounted in the rear chamber with the fans in main chamber which i believe is what you plan on doing also. To get tubing to the ports on the side radiator requires a 20mm extension fitting and a 90 degree rotary fitting, this left me with 10mm (i'm not sure exactly) of space between the fittings and the top radiator. It's tight but perfectly doable. This was my first ever custom loop so if i can do it anyone can. And FWIW i have my top radiator mounted so the ports towards the rear of the case above the motherboard I/O.
  4. You'll need to use 90 degree fittings for the radiator on the side and another 90 on the pump (thats what i do).
  5. I've looked over the card and i cant see anything obviously wrong but then i'm not sure what the damage would actually look like. I guess its not impossible but i'd be surprised if it was a leak because i pressure tested everything before hand.
  6. I have a Vega 64 reference card that I installed a Byskski water block to for my first water cooled system and everything went fine to begin with. I had the system up and running for about 2 weeks with everything working just fine, temps were good. I decided i wanted to rearrange my loop, largely for aesthetics but also for better access, draining etc . When i did this i also removed the block from GPU in order to clean it out as i could see some debris in it (it was acetal from the threads on my EK pump/res combo). I reassembled the block and pressure tested it to make sure it was air tight and it was. I reassembled my loop, pressure tested it and then leak tested for 12 hours just to be sure. There were no leaks and everything seemed fine. When i tried to boot the system for the first time i was getting no display at all - i tried with different monitors, DP cable, HDMI cable, different power supply - nothing. So once again i drained the loop, removed the graphics card, removed the block, reattached the stock air cooler and then tried again to boot (in a different system). I still got no display, the fan would not spin but the 'Radion' logo on the cooler DOES light up. I have no idea what i could have done to kill the card but since the logo does light up it's clearly getting some power. I appreciate this is a hard question to answer but if i send it off to a company that repairs GPUs what do you think my chances are of it being fixed? Thanks
  7. For reasons i dont quite understand in the UK it seems to be rather difficult to find either 360mm or 120mm foam gaskets that are actually in stock and not crazy expensive. I'm wondering if anyone here has made their own and if so what materials did you use and where did you get them? Thanks
  8. I'd rather not throw any more money at this to be honest, i've already sunk far more cash in to this than i ever intended. I'm just gonna email EK and see they might replace the part with the acrylic version.
  9. This is my EK pump/res combo. Do D5 pump tops and reservoirs vary in diameter? I ask because if i bought an acrylic top I would need it to be compatible with the pump and res in my link above.
  10. I'm only too willing admit when i make a mistake but on this occasion i actually dont think i did. I screwed my fittings in by hand until they stopped, i never tried to really crank them hard as i knew that over tightening fittings is not necessary. I wont be buying any more EK products in future.
  11. After taking it all apart i'm 99% certain the debris is from the inlet and outlet ports on my EK pump/res combo. The threads look quite rough and i could actually see thin strips hanging off, albeit very small pieces. I dont know if this is normal, a manufacturing fault or error on my part by screwing the fittings in too tight?
  12. I've tried taking pics but my camera phone is just too crap to show anything meaningful.
  13. I dont know how to clean the micro fins on my blocks. They're so narrow i'm struggling to get the toothbrush bristles to get in between them. Also, the jet plate on the GPU block (bykski) seems to be non-removable so i cant underneath it to clean.
  14. I can confirm my CPU block cold plat is filled with black stuff. I just tried cleaning with a toothbrush but i cant get it out.
×