kenblu24

If I may make a suggestion, please be mindful of how much of your identity is wrapped up in your choice of OS. It's just a piece of software, and there's no need to be so derisive towards others just because they criticized the OS you use. I promise you Apple will be just fine without you defending their UX choices.

Does MacOS have the ability to turn off mouse acceleration natively? Because that was a major dealbreaker for me and yet it wasn't mentioned in the video. As far as I'm aware, you can't turn off mouse or scroll acceleration, and requiring a third party app for that is really stupid.

Why isn't there a pouch for water bottles on the outside? I can actually understand why there isn't one; bottles can slip out, it's not stealthy, it would allow zippers to get lost under the water bottle area, wide range of bottle sizes, etc. But my co-worker has a bag with MOLLE webbing on the side, so he's got this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Gonex-Tactical-Military-Drawstring-Hydration/dp/B01J7SZII4 The webbing on the left side don't appear to be MOLLE/PALS standard. Why aren't they? Seems like that would have given people more choices for how to use the bag, especially since there are others like me who would like an external bottle pocket:

Note for posterity: The reviews are done through an independent third party, judge.me, so LMG can't unfairly influence the reviews. Linus mentioned not being able to verify reviews themselves on WAN show; that has to be done by judge.me so any wrongly verified reviews are their responsibility.

Ah. I think I see what you're getting at. I thought this was just about XBone/360 controllers, for which lithium battery packs exist, as opposed to a universal standard for that form factor. Yeah, I gotta agree with you on this; I would love if there were standards for replaceable lithium battery packs. Like, it's especially bad in the power tools department, where each brand has their own battery system. But I think this might be a case of https://xkcd.com/927/, with some extra commercial incentives for proprietary-ness. That said, standard single-cell lithium cells do exist, like 18650, RCR123, etc. But practically nothing uses these except some flashlights. I have a dental curing light that uses RCR123s which is neat though. Yeah, those things SUCK. Just yesterday I was working on these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2662828, for which we bought twenty rechargeable 9v batteries. Well, guess what? They couldn't handle the load of the motors starting up, which caused the microcontroller to brownout, causing the whole system to constantly reset. I don't think a standard 2s LiPo battery would have done that... That said, batteries aren't as simple as we'd like them to be. I'm sure there are at least some engineering considerations that help explain why there's no standard for this on top of all the proprietary ecosystem stuff.

Yo what did you use to draw this diagram?

Yes, second that. It will probably look something like this: Make sure the one you get has a button on it. Plug it in, take a picture of the lights. Then, press the button, the circuit it's connected to might turn off, take a picture again. This will give a lot more information than our guesswork.

I think Linus said this was the primary reason in a video or on WAN show a long time ago.

Macrium Reflect gives you the option to use a recovery environment. Like most backup software, it's not required to clone a drive, but if you want a bootable copy, I'd still highly recommend using the recovery environment. The last clone I did failed because I did it online (i.e. Windows was still running off the drive I was cloning) and the resulting clone wasn't bootable. I tried again from the recovery environment and it worked perfectly. That said, this is the first time I've had this issue. Every other time I've done an online clone with Macrium, it's been bootable. But to be safe, going forward I'm doing all my boot drive clones offline.

AAs are standard, relatively cheap, and widely available, and best of all, hot-swappable. And you can gauge the charge level by measuring the voltage of the AA battery. Also, all the Lithium battery packs for Xbox have extra pins for communicating with the battery management system inside the pack, which provides a charge level. There's no need to negotiate voltage in this way, and doing so would be terrible engineering anyways since that would imply voltage conversion, which is inefficient and unnecessary for this use case. Microsoft does many things wrong, but they really did try (and succeed imo) with giving you as much choice as possible with the Xbox controller battery system. Slapping PD on a controller would be expensive and inefficient, because every use case you seem to want is already covered by the current system; as an engineer this makes me very confused why you're not happy with it.

Also, there's some #lienus action going on with the middle three controller repairs in the B-roll hehe

Yes and no. Sony might be anti repair by not providing manuals and replacement parts. At the same time there products are one of, if not, the best in class regarding reparability. to replace the PS4 controller battery all you need is a flat head screw driver and PH00. With PS5 controller it takes longer but they made it even simpler and less chance to leave visible marks in the plastic shell. Yes but there's another benefit to AA batteries: You can keep spares and change them out quickly. Can't do that without a battery door. I'm not a controller designer, but GOD NO. USB-C is not a general purpose connector, and PD is meant for charging, not intra-device power connections. I'm not the most familiar with the PD standard, so maybe you could play hacky wacky with PD and get it to behave, but it'd be a waste of technology. We already have rechargeable aftermarket lithium packs for Xbox controllers. Hell, we even have first party battery packs. https://www.xbox.com/en-US/accessories/batteries-chargers/play-and-charge-kit There's no need to use PD as an intermediary when you can just get a lithium battery already. As for your weird use case of extending a battery connection with a USB-C cable, you can power/charge your controller with a USB battery bank. It's kinda silly and would use power while idle, but it's an option.

On the last wan show at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9PcNrhiMUc&t=2802, Linus & Luke complain about how long it takes for Windows to do an update query. I've had some particularly long wait times after hitting the button, but Linus was going absolutely bonkers at the fact that it's not *milliseconds* fast. They even mentioned that a viewer tried the button and it took eleven (11) seconds for Windows to check for updates. Well, it's not instant on Linux either? I tried using a WSL Ubuntu instance to run sudo apt update which is basically the Debian/Ubuntu equivalent of Check for Updates, and it also took eleven seconds? In the image below, it took pretty much exactly eleven seconds from when hit the Enter key on the sudo apt update command to when it tells me how many packages can be updated. I've also had this command take longer sometimes, particularly if I'm on a bad internet connection. Hell, on Elementary OS, I've had the get updates button take waaaay longer. Funnily enough, halfway through writing this on my Windows 10 rig (which I ran the sudo apt update command from), my computer basically locked up.

I don't have the exact model that was shown on video, but that last one is commonly seen in enclosures like these: https://www.amazon.com/IDEARACE-Compact-Tower-Intel-Support/dp/B07QJY899T/ https://www.amazon.com/Kingdel-Fanless-Desktop-Computer-Windows/dp/B01AU7T1NO/ These are industrial fanless PCs, but I've used similar ones as routers running PFSense. On the second listing, you can see an inside shot of the mobo, and it's pretty similar. The main differences I see are that Linus's board has USB 2.0 instead of 3.0, and the ones I found all have COM ports and Wifi. Also, now you know what voltage to give it, and why the CPU is on the back: It's meant to be cooled passively!

... that's why you turn the whole thing off and unplug from power before servicing... Try unplugging it, turning off the PSU, holding the power button for a few seconds, then plug it back in and see if it can turn on.

If you can afford to wait, then wait. Prices will come back down... eventually. AMD's lackluster driver/feature support is gonna hurt. Get something from Nvidia instead so you have Cuda cores. If you do 3D work, machine learning, or video editing, Nvidia is generally a better bet since people really don't like supporting OpenCL. If you're only doing some mild video work, and are fine with a bit of pain and suffering, and are worried primarily about gaming performance, then sure I guess you could buy it. But keep in mind that with cards this old, official driver support and optimization for newer games might also suck. Competitive titles will probably still be playable, but it's not guaranteed. My 280x was being pushed pretty hard with BF4, even though that's the game that came with the card.

As someone who has an XFX r9 280x, I second this. The 280x is no longer supported, so you might run into weird issues for video encoding. I actually had trouble using Parsec because the resolution downscaling was broken. Worse still, it's now a decade old since it's basically an HD 7970, a card released in 2011. And I remember a few years ago the 280x was going for $60 on eBay. Now used RX 480 is like 300-400, over twice the price I paid for my 280x. That's crazy. Edit: Here's completed sales of RX 480 cards. You might be able to snag one for $200-300 if you're lucky. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=rx+480&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&rt=nc&LH_Complete=1

bruh. a computer is just a big, dynamic resistor. electric heat and a mining rig are literally the same thing. the difference is that one of them gets you money in return. It's literally the reason why Linus wanted to make the video in the first place. Mining in general uses up a lot of electricity and generates lots of waste heat in return. But if you're using that heat to heat your house, it's not being wasted.

Songza was a music discovery/mood music app that had curated music playlists based on your mood. It died when Google bought it in 2016, but the actual curated playlists have lived on in Google Play Music in the Stations feature. Now, Google Play Music is shutting down, and those Stations are not being carried over to the new Youtube Music**. So, in effect, Songza is finally and completely dead. The curated stuff formed a lot of my taste in music. It's pretty much gone now. I'm sad. ** You can migrate Stations that you saved to YT Music multiple times. Any Stations that were not in your Google Play Music Library before starting the migration will not be accessible from YT Music.

What material is that? Do you have any concerns about heat? Yea I was planning on 3D printing most of it, but the PCI card mounting bracket standards were really designed for sheet metal. But I don't want to pay 150 for that, so I guess I don't really need the strength or rigidity that much.

Okay I guess if I think of custom building as a hobby, 600 for a single component makes a bit more sense, especially if I'm considering the crazy amounts people here spend on their watercooling.

I was quoted about 150 USD for a custom sheet metal part pictured below, which is the price of a decent full-size case. How on earth do you crazy people afford what I'm assuming is $600+ for a whole custom-made case? Are you doing the fab work yourself? Sponsors? Are you just a baller?

I have a Barrow D5 PWM pump. It has leads for PWM/tach that go to the motherboard, and gets power from 4-pin 12V peripheral Molex. I had problems where only the pump stopped working after telling Windows to sleep and immediately resuming from sleep (my previous LTT post). This caused my CPU/GPU to reach 104C with fans running at full tilt because the pump wasn't running. The problem could either be with my motherboard possibly not sending the PWM signal after the resume from sleep, or with the pump somehow registering a stall and then deciding not to try and spin up again. I've tried unplugging the PWM/tach cable and it doesn't spin up, but unplugging the 12V Molex and plugging it back in makes the pump work, so my bet is on the latter. Has anybody else had this issue?

I have no idea if it's the pump or the mobo now. I managed to reproduce the error (put Windows to sleep, it wakes up immediately afterwards for some reason) and the pump won't be running. I tried unplugging the PWM/tach cable from the motherboard (pump powered by separate 12v Molex) and it didn't automatically start up again. New theory: Maybe the pump's internal controller registers a stall and doesn't try to spin up again.

I put my computer into standby mode before going to bed. It woke up five seconds later without me telling it to, and the motherboard must have been real confused because I think it turned off PWM to the pump, but everything else worked normally. Either that, or somehow my PSU turned off power to my 4-pin Molex peripheral leads. It was about 20 minutes until I realized the fans spinning like crazy meant something was very wrong. I came back to the computer CHUGGING so hard I initially thought I had a memory leak or something. Once I figured out that the pump had stopped (rad was cold, CPU and GPU blocks were very hot), I shut it down as quickly as I could. I disconnected the pump's power and control/tach leads and ran it off another PSU and it worked fine. Once I plugged the pump back into my rig, it worked just fine. tl;dr: Did my Ryzen 2700x or 1080ti (full block, on same water loop) suffer any long-term damage from being at ~104C or higher for about 30 minutes? And has anybody else had their mobo just decide not to power the pump after a resume from standby?