aduman

Since it says in your signature "SimRacer", If you plan on doing any VR sim racing, AMD and FSR is the way; 6900 XT or 6950XT. DLSS increases the latency too damn much, leading to some major motion sickness and very choppy gameplay on pretty much every VR headset; especially noticeable in ACC. In fact, that is the key difference between now previous gen GPUs - AMD have a bit lower average FPS, but provide smoother gameplay.
But if you can wait a bit more, you should be able to get an used GPU for A LOT less with the beginning of the new year, at least for the EU. They basically shot all miners with a shotgun in the face with the accepted €1000 transaction roof and the personal information requirements. Even more from June all platforms will be liable for clients/investors losses, so... the picture looks really REALLY bright for the again normal GPU market in 2023. Already there are hundreds if big mining rigs being sold in parts. 

I don't have a problem with my RX6900XT at 3440x1440 over 120FPS in the games I play. BF2042 I gotta turn settings down to medium (still looks great) and will get above 120 FPS. I don't play RT games and think the performance hit is not worth it, more so on a 6900XT. 
 
Just my $0.02. 

i cant really complane about my 6800XT for 1440p UW even tough im bottlenecked with my X370 Board and PCIe 3.0

I use an RTX 3080 10 GB for 3440x1440. It works very well. I haven't had any issues with lack of VRAM with the exception of some machine learning tasks, but in that case it required CUDA so the 6800XT wouldn't have worked anyway. When not using RT the 3080 is more than enough for 3440x1440. I usually do use RT and I still get acceptable performance for the gaming that I do. For example in Cyberpunk I run it on Ultra Ray Tracing preset and I set the DLSS to Balanced and I still get about 67 FPS and it looks amazing.
 
I usually run mine undervolted and I get slightly better performance than stock and depending on the game it uses between 250 and 300 W. Typically it uses about 290 W.

I think the in-built stuff in Adrenaline is quite good, you could use that. (Open the "Fine tuning controls" dropdown to manually enter values instead of trying to adjust the horrible graph)

Problem with SMR - data can be written/erased only in very large blocks. Most SMR hdd-s have relatively large write cache and as long as you stay within this cache you are fine. After that you get single-digit write speeds and severe delays (and be severe i mean worst case hdd can stop communicating with the host for 10-s of seconds or even minutes to the point when some software might assume it's dead). In ideal world it should only happen with random writes, on practice it happens with any writes for device-managed SMR. Different manufacturers have different implementations so experience might be different too.
 
Honestly in my opinion the only thing where SMR is fine is backup storage or media storage, potentially with some caching solution on top. For everything else you are bound to run into performance issues sooner or later. If at all possible it is better to avoid SMR, it is vastly inferior product sold for nearly the same price.

True, the SMR drives are slower on large writes but overall, once the data is there, there is little difference while you may save a bit of money. I'd get the Ironwolf over the Blue if that's the choice you have. That being said, for reliability I would get a WD Gold drive instead, might be a bit more expensive though. You can run NAS drives in non-NAS environments without problems. The data recovery thing is fairly useless in my book. There are additional costs that are not included with the warranty. Also sending your data off to some data recovery center that has a standing contract with Seagate would have me worried in terms of safety. The current WD Blue drives used to be WD Green drives, I have several still in use daily after 5 years, not a lot of writes though, just large storage. Make sure to run a drive integrity test before copying your data. I usually let Seatools run on the new drive to verify it. If it throws errors you can get it replaced before risking your precious files. 

Toshiba X300 is my pick

Yea a SMR drive would work fine for that. Normally sequential writes are fine, and only random writes really suffer in terms of performance.

IMO anything from basic desktop models from any manufacturer which is not SMR. You can look up specific models you have available locally on manufacturer's sites and should be able to see if it is SMR or not.
Be careful to look at specific part numbers, because there can be both SMR and CMR drives of the same model and same size.
For example for toshiba p300 is looks like this:
 

cmr means the drive will do random writes much slower than a cmr(or normal) drive. I believe ltt has some videos about it
 
DO you have good backups? Make them now. I have seen drive last a while with those errors, and some will die soon.

Id get the p300 as its cheaper, there basically the same drives.
 
 
Keep a backup if you care about the data, drives can fail at any time with no warning.

DI probalby go blue or p300, they will all work about the same for a basic desktop use.
 
Id consider getting a bigger drive, not that much more, and the extra space is nice.
 
Reds will work fine, but really won't help you here, and aren't more reliable, if you want a better drive, get one without smr, like the skyhawk or n300

Thanks everyone for the help, much appreciated!

No.
You boot to recovery mode from your current Windows install by mashing F11 while your system is booting.
Then you made your way to "Reinstall Windows 10" and do that.
Select "Keep my personal files and folders".

it depends.
for steam: no, you just tell it where the games are
for EGS: kinda. You have to rename the game folder, then start the install. then pause, then close the launcher (like in the bottom right hit exit) then delete the new folder, then rename the old one back to the old name.
for  MS Store/Xbox app: no

LOL , yes i do ,
it was just the heat i worried about , but doesn't seem to be an issue .
Thanks  

Backplates are almost always an aesthetic thing, not really worth it if you're looking for performance improvements.

If I'm looking at gigabyte it's the aorus pro (the one with the proper heatsink on the vrms, although the b550 variant has poorly implemented dual bios that can be a headache).
Of those 3 though, I would get the b550 tomahawk

have they done a wide benchmark? ill have a look
 
 
i guess i missed this one. though it was only a couple of games
 
 
here you OP, lots of content to look at

wait for harware unboxed`s full range benchmarks. they will give you a very clear picture what the difference is.

Hardware Unboxed did a video including these two GPUs already, try find it.

Woohoo! Happy to help.

Could you try plugging the speakers into a phone directly, but without moving the cable, and then do something GPU intensive.
 
Could you also try plugging the phone into the fulla's line input and then switching to that input, and doing something GPU intensive.
 
Either way, this definitely sound like a EMI issue rather than a grounding issue, especially as it's fine through headphones but not the speakers. The solution would be to use a balanced connection between the fulla and the speakers.

Potentially that part of the issue is through grounding (despite all you've tried to fix that) and that part is through interference.
 
What might be worth trying is using a passive DI box between the fulla and the speakers, unfortunately this means some spending. the DBX DJDI should be available in most regions and looks to be the cheapest that i'd actually trust to work, you'll then need 2 xlr cables between the DI and the speakers and the shortest 3.5mm to dual 1/4'' you can find.
 
The only other useful advice i can think of is to check that internal USB header cables are routed away from any power cables, and again externally.
 
I can't say this will definitely fix 100% of your problem, but it's as much as i can think would have any effect.