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Jamarlie

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About Jamarlie

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    Newbie
  1. Okay, maybe a quick update, I seem to have found the problem. I believe my SSD is fine, the issue has probably something to do with my keyboard. Now I was also able to reproduce how. To "force" this error I can just hold down the power button on my PC which will make it turn off, turning it on again after that basically caused the weird pointer to flash again and not boot. That's when I noticed my keyboard was faintly flashing when I did this, I presume it gets barely enough power from the USBs to vaguely kind of half turn on? It's a Steelseries M800 meaning it's basically it's own computer. It usually requires two USBs to be connected for power delivery as well. Now my theory was that the faint flicker of the keyboard probably draws just enough current to make my PC think there is a USB connected as a boot drive. Meaning my PC (most likely) effectively tried to boot from my keyboard, giving me this blinking thing. Disconnecting the keyboard and trying again resulted in everything booting up just fine. More testing might be required but I think I found the culprit. I have absolutely no clue what causes this but if you happen to find this thread and have a similar problem: It was the keyboard in my case. That explains why turning off the power helps to not feed the CPU in the keyboard more electricity and therefore the PC booting up correctly.
  2. But that would be weird. I've had that problem ever since I first built my PC. Needless to say that Crystaldisk doesn't show me any signs of trouble (although I do know that SMART doesn't necessarily mean anything):
  3. Maybe one of you tech savys can help me with my problem here: I boot Windows 10 off of a regular 750 Evo SSD. Now sometimes when I go to start up my system instead of booting up Windows I just see a black screen and small blinking dash at the top right corner. Then nothing is happening. Usually that dash would wander down and Windows would boot up, dunno why it does that. Shutting the computer off and back on usually fixes the issue. I always thought "Hm, maybe my PC boots of any USB device for some reason and just gets confused, heck do I know" and went on my way. After all that only happens like 1/20 boots or so and has always sorta been there as a boot "issue" ever since I built my PC. Today it happened three times in a row though, which understandably made me freak out a bit. I am now certain that doesn't originate from any other device as I went into the BIOS and specifically told my PC to boot the SSD, still the same problem. It was only after shutting off the power and trying again that it booted just fine. What the hell is this sorcery and how do I prevent it? Is it bad? Is it "just a Windows thing"? In case you need specs or anything: i7 4790K, GTX 1070, Sabertooth Mark S MoBo, 256GB 750 EVO SSD (I only use it for booting, it literally is about 2/3rds empty), 2 other Harddrives for everything else, Windows 10 Professional. Built the system in mid 2016 so I highly doubt something is extremely broken that causes this. My SSD has 12TB of writecycles on it, and about 9500 hours of runtime. Crystaldisk says it's at 100% health. Thanks in advance!
  4. It's a double edge sword. On one hand I am super glad my loop still looked the way it did and about the fact that it was still in extremely good condition. On the other hand I am a bit salty that I worried so much my loop was gonna corrode and flood my PC in a disaster the likes of a biblical catastrophe. Oh well, all in all it swallowed 8 hours of my time but hey, I kinda knew back when I opted for a custom loop that I would have to do maintenance at some point ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Also one upside of the entire ordeal was that I found out I had the fins on my CPU block installed the wrong way. They were parallel to the water outlet instead of perpendicular. That shaved off 10°C of my core temperatures. Now my PC runs comfortably at a cozy 50°C after 30 minutes of synthetic load
  5. Okay so if anybody finds this later down the road and is wondering the same thing I wanna say how everything looks after entirely disassembling the loop. I feel the need to point out that this might not apply to you and you should still check for signs of trouble with your loop but in case your question is similar to mine: Holy sh*t what a waste of time I just went through. My loop was as clean as it was on day 1 when I first assembled everything. I have disassembled the pump, the water block, flushed the radiator and there is literally NO buildup what so fucking ever. The loop had no gunk in it when I drained the coolant, the block was shiny and as good as new, the pump was clean and there was absolutely no residue. So overall conclusion for my case: I wasted 40 bucks on new coolant and new tubing, I could have probably let the loop run for another year or so. I seriously don't know why they took that EKoolant off the market because it definitely seemed to have done the trick for me.
  6. Well let's not turn this into a thread about water cooling superiority, my question was an entirely different one, I do understand your rant though.
  7. Alright, then I will get to it as soon as I find the time, thanks for your reply! :]
  8. Hey, the supremacy EVO ain't a bad block by any means tho. But then again, preferences :^) Did a ton of research back when I built this system and from what I could tell this was one of the best user rated blocks I could find, it ain't bad at all imo. So you'd both recommend I at least check on the loop and flush it to see if it needs more maintenance asap, is that correct?
  9. So basically after the new LTT video I realized that I have been a tad lazy when it comes to showing some love for my water loop. Basically I used a bunch of high quality stuff, EK reservoir, pump and block, XSPC rad, primoflex, monsoon fittings and EKs UV blue coolant. Now I built this system back in September 2016 and haven't cleaned the loop since. Luckily I planned ahead and already installed a drain point below my reservoir. However, well, laziness. It has lost absolutely no fluid over the year and a half, I still get great temps (always below 60°C under synthetic load), the PC isn't in direct sun light, I don't have cloudy coolant and I don't have any visible gunk swimming around in the water. Needless to say the EKoolant has a biocide additive so I highly doubt algae can live submerged in there, especially after I thoroughly cleaned everything prior to installing. Now for my question: How urgent would maintenance be for that setup? I've looked around online and I found that everybody said you should clean it about every year but they were all talking about distilled water loops. I could not find any specific recommendations for my coolant and how often people recommended to change that. Should I clean it asap? Can I wait until I hit 24 months of running and then do some major maintenance like retubing etc? What should I clean and how thoroughly? Should I redo the tubing, disassemble and thoroughly clean EVERYTHING? I'm kinda worried I'll get leaks if I do that and reassemble. Or if it is urgent to clean, is it enough if I just flush it, I mean the tubes seem to be fine, I can't see any build up and they are still as transparent as ever. Thx in advance for your help.
  10. Ahhh, okay, so you're basically saying I shouldn't worry? :] If that is the case I am sorta calm. ^^' I don't assume I did anything correctly on that build as it's one of the very first builds I ever did and I ofc went full retard to build a custom water loop. ^^'
  11. I am not sure if you can pack both of them in there. Usually you can run two different GPUs in any rig without an issue. You can't however expect massive performance boosts if they aren't SLI bridged (which won't be possible as they are two different cards and to the best of my knowledge SLI is only available on GTX cards with few exceptions). You'd have to check though as those ancient cards exceed my knowledge by a bit. If you are upgrading the rig anyway however it heavily depends on what games you want to play because then your HDD space might reach its limit really fast. I haven't clogged up my 1TB drive with too many games and not really big ones either and it's already at like 400GB usage. My operating system and private files like photos, music and videos not included as they lie on different drives. I'd suggest you just go with another drive if you have the finances just to make sure. A 1TB HDD only costs like 40$ today and you can get really good ones from WD for 45$ upwards so it's worth it.
  12. Well air can damage the pump from what I've heard And if there's too much air trapped in the CPU block it could make it overheat. Plus the possibility of any sort of leak scares the living bologna out of me. But yeah, when I was first filling up the loop I only had the pump connected to the PSU and I swung the case around lightly to get rid of access air, also tilted it in a few different ways
  13. Well, you aren't exactly gonna play GTA 5 or Crysis 3 with that PC in 4K so I guess for lighter titles that are a few years older 256GB should be more than enough. But since this PC is super old I'd check if the HDD has any SMART issues tho. You can use CrystalDisk for that to check the SMART-values and get a quick overview of it's state. For 40$ you can't really complain about any of this here, it's kind of a steal tbh. The processor won't win you any awards and the GPU is pretty outdated (dur, really?) but it should do. If you still have a GT210 lying around you should be able to add it without a problem. Not sure about the old hardware but as long as you have PCIe slots you should be able to.
  14. Heya, so I built my first custom watercooling loop a while back, about 3-4 months ago. For the spec part: It consists of an EK X-RES 140 Evo pump + reservoir combo mounted at the back of my case, an EK Supremacy EVO block, an XSPC 280MM radiator top mounted and Monsoon compression fittings on Primoflex Chill tubing. Diameter should be 13/10 if I am not mistaking. For cooling liquids I use EK's EKoolant. For the loop I pass the water through the CPU block, then up to the radiator and from the radiator a bit down to the pump. Now to the problem: When I first had my watercooling setup I ran everything for about an hour under full load with careful surveillance to get all the airbubbles out and check for leaks. I later checked on the system carefully every hour for the past three days to ensure nothing was leaking and all visual airbubbles were gone. When I started the pump a few times on prime I noticed that the coolant was sort of bubbly but I got most of the visible bubbles out the system. Now this system has been running for a good 3-4 months, not under that heavy of a load I might add. Never had an issue with air bubbles since it usually never surpasses 50% load even when gaming and recording. I rendered a video today, aka 80-90% CPU usage and now all of a sudden I have a few tiny airbubbles passing through the pump every now and then. There has only been one big airbubble after 2 hours on continuous rendering that just passed by and scared the living fuck out of me. I panic checked the entire loop for leaks as I could see no air get passed into the system yet there seems to be a lot of air coming out of it. I found none, zero. The system is tightly sealed since the day I built it. My question is: Are those just bubbles that are still in the radiator and are they something to worry about? My CPU temps seem fine, with a 4790K running at stock clock under full load for more than an hour I get temps in the mid to high 50°Cs. The pump also only turns to max speed once the CPU surpasses 50°C. Is it possible that due to the fact that the intake of new water and output of the used liquid are so close by that some of the air that passes out of the loop into the reservoir is immediately sucked back in and I just missed that? Thanks for your answers in advance!
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