Stagea

Been into electronics and audio gear since I was a kid in the 80s and 90s. I used to fiddle with whatever we had at home. My dad had HiFi systems and I got hand me down components when I was in high school (aside from the portable stuff that all kids kind of had then). Audio (both home and mobile) has always been one of the things I spent on when I started earning for myself in the early 00s. While I understood electronics (like how amps work, electronic repair and mobile audio installs) before this, it's only around 2007 (27 y.o. then) when I started to really put effort in learning acoustics and human hearing. This is also around the time when I started having measurement equipment and being serious about getting my systems to sound "correct." My spending on audio started to rise at that point and peaked at around 2011; it's taken a slow decline since then. 

Been into electronics and audio gear since I was a kid in the 80s and 90s. I used to fiddle with whatever we had at home. My dad had HiFi systems and I got hand me down components when I was in high school (aside from the portable stuff that all kids kind of had then). Audio (both home and mobile) has always been one of the things I spent on when I started earning for myself in the early 00s. While I understood electronics (like how amps work, electronic repair and mobile audio installs) before this, it's only around 2007 (27 y.o. then) when I started to really put effort in learning acoustics and human hearing. This is also around the time when I started having measurement equipment and being serious about getting my systems to sound "correct." My spending on audio started to rise at that point and peaked at around 2011; it's taken a slow decline since then. 

Me? I designed my first speakers at age 17. First tube amplifier at age 18. First solid-state amplifier (that didn't detonate) at age 20. And ironically... it took until almost 23 before I built a headphone amplifier. I didn't build a headphone amplifier until after I had built a 400 W, 100 kHz bandwidth power amplifier.
 
In case it isn't obvious, I like hardware more than I like the music. 
 
 

Not every home theatre needs to have the most badass speakers. If they sound good, and he's enjoying the setup, that's the primary factor.

That's a good selection from very different price points. I'd probably go with bigger units if you'd be running without a sub (Monitor Audio Bronze 100 perhaps?).
 

If I’m doing the price conversion correctly those are $30 headphones. The DAC likely doesn’t support anything higher and to be honest, even if it did, you’d never notice the difference with $30 headphones. 

Thanks they are just stained and satin clear coat on birch ply.  
They used to bigger in the ported boxes when I had my dedicated theater room.  
 
 

Congrats on the new pair of speakers. The 3.5mm cable would indeed work for your setup; the Bluetooth connection would work too. Here are the advantages/disadvantages:
 
1. 3.5mm to RCA cable - Pro: Will work with most devices; Con: Analogue connection is prone to noise from the computer (buzzing, humming, etc.)
2. Bluetooth - Pro: Wireless and not likely to transmit noise; Con: Compressed audio will not provide the highest fidelity
3. Optical/Toslink - Pro: Galvanically isolated (no electrical connection) therefore no noise transmission; Con: Not all computers have an optical output
 
Your motherboard needs a back plate with a toslink/optical output that connects to that SPDIF header to use an optical connection. That part looks like this:

 

If you'd be using the 3.5mm cable to the speakers, you can also wire your sub to the 8-channel analogue output. That will let your computer handle bass management.
 
If you'd be using Optical or Bluetooth, then the subwoofer would not get the signal that's being received by your powered speakers by default. That makes adding a subwoofer more difficult.

Skip the sound card and get the R1700BT / R1700BTs instead. You can hook it up via your motherboard's toslink/optical out (if it has one). This model performs so much better than the R1280T.
 
The BTs model includes a sub-out and an internal bass management crossover, in case you're adding a powered subwoofer.

Given Polish pricing, maybe the Samsung QE55Q60A. Good black levels, screen uniformity and color gamut with excellent motion handling.

Dont buy speakers off amazon. Utter rubbish on there.

You can get cheap none car speakers as well.

Just google speaker component seller. 

More nits will matter most in a bright environment though. You'll create infinitely more contrast by putting absolute black next to 800 nits than putting 4000 nits next to 800 nits instead of 2000 nits. Of course it's nice to have higher peak brightness, but in a dark room my C9 can get eye-searingly bright already. Even though it's only 700-800 nits it's borderline too bright. Not to say QLEDs and such aren't great, but for me nothing beats literally not being able to see where the TV ends and the wall starts when there's a dark scene.
 
In the end we need (want) both. High peak brightness to not saturate the highest peaks, and absolute blacks for the best contrast.

Consider belt-drive options too. They're more delicate than direct-drive models in general, but you do tend to get better quality audio for the same outlay. The belt drive isolates the platter from the motor's vibration, plus belt drive motors tend to be cheaper (more of the money gets spent on the cartridge, tonearm, plinth, preamp, etc.). Here's an example of a belt-drive model from Audio Technica:
AT-LPW50PB - Fully Manual Belt-Drive Turntable | Audio-Technica
 
Rega and Pro-ject offer a lot of belt drive options too (with significantly more brand panache), though they do tend to cost more than AT for the same feature set.
 
Direct drive turntables tend to be very durable and tend to have very strong motors. That makes them the top option for professional use and DJing. Here's AT's current Direct Drive offering.
AT-LP120XBT-USB Direct Drive Turntable (audio-technica.com)

You stated GETTING a soundbar that has ARC. which one is it?

I don't know of a single Dolby Atmos Soundbar that doesn't have at least 2 HDMI Inputs. (not saying they don't exist)

I would connect nearly all those devices (especially the Roku and Bluray) if possible directly to the Soundbar via HDMI letting it act as a HUB, (Kind of like an AVR/Receiver) then one HDMI cable from the Soundbar's ARC output to the TV's ARC input.

 

This reaally depends on the exact model, but typiclly the high end mirrorless cameras have things like:
-higher burst rate
-better auto focus
-better build quality
-better controls + more control dails(great for fash changing settings, keeps you from having to press a iso button for example)
-dual card slots(then a card failure won't cause lost footage)
-more menu options(also gives you more specialized options often, and some low end ones won't let you do things like have a electric shutter in manual mode)
-better io(like a pc flash port or external trigger
-better viewfinder.
 
The entry level cameras are fine for most hobbyiests and users, but the high end ones do add some little goodies, and make it easier to get a good shot.

Dad bought that few years ago. he's very happy with it for casual LP playing.

Would you be using it for playback or for DJing?
 
A new Technics SL-1210 will run you almost twice that amount. Consider Audio Technica's much cheaper "equivalent" models, if you're looking for a budget direct drive turntable. The AT-LP120XUSB is the latest release for that series, afaik. You can always upgrade the cartridge and preamp later on. 
 
If you're not DJing, there are a lot of good belt drive machines within your price range.
 

What do you need it for, what is your budget/location. Etc.
Come on, at least make it look like you put some effort in.

what software are you used to record with?
 
you could apply a (noise) gate plugin to get rid of the noise in post
 
(oh btw how bad is the buzzing?)

Holy Supertweeters O_O
 
 
 
 
Can I join?
 
Not really a home theater but it's as close as it gets to one in my tiny home lol it's a dual use system
 
The pc side is going through pre outs on the AVR 3805 because it cleans up the humming until I further solve the problem. The Denon is running on EXT in mode, and pre outs get sent to the 2.1 system for the pc, but rear B powers the speakers under the TV all at the same time and both are independent from another in volumes. It's a ghetto rigged system lol
 
The speakers for the pc are:

Focal Shape 65 I got for $380 after replacing the left woofer from letgo
 
The Subwoofer is a Mirage Omni S12 I got from a thrift store for $45 and did mild repairs on
 
The ghetto sound bar is a couple of Aperion Audio 522D I got four for $35 on FB marketplace
 
Receiver is a Denon AVR 3805 I got for $50 at the same thrift store as the subwoofer
 
Sound card is an Asus Xonar SE, old better card broke, need to get a better sound card or go optical at this point with a 2.1 DAC so I can break up the computer from the TV sound system and not need reciever to clean up the PC audio signal as I suspect I have grounding issues causing transformer hum with the Focals.
 
They aren't the loudest speakers in the world, but it's damn near studio quality, and my frequency response is 24Hz-35,000Hz, which ain't bad for the same price as a pair of KRK rockits.
 
The Focals get down to 40Hz all by them selves and in this apartment I actually almost never use the subwoofer, hell I can't even figure out how to enable stereo upmix at the moment on this crappy sound card after my Xonar DX died
 
Anyway, I used to mess with car audio and used to buy and sell car stereos on craigslist a long time ago, which is how I was able to get all this together by deal hunting for a couple years. I named the setup Scrapyard Battlerig lol

@King_PIN
Amazing build! There truly is no replacement for displacement. Those pro drivers can be used to fill a commercial theater. 

TV: Sony x900h 85" 
Receiver - Denon x4500h
4K BR player - Oppo UDP-203
Amplifier for mains - Monoprice Monolith 5 channel
Amplifier Cooler -AC Infinity AIRCOM T8
Subs- 2 x 21" FTW21's in sealed boxes gets me down to 6hz in room/4000 watts per sub. 
Sub Amps - 2 x Behringer ep4000's bridged on their own 20 amp outlets
Front Speakers - Klipsch RP-8000f
Center Speaker - Klipsch RP-504c
UPS - Rack mount 1500va/1500w CyberPower PR1500LCD
Power Conditioner/Distribution - Ultrapower HDC150RM and Tripp Lite RS-1215-RA
NAS - Qnap TVS-882T with 10 slot Expansion unit - 100tb's
Satellite Receiver - Bell HD PVR
Gaming - PS4 & Nvidia Shield Pro

One day when I have room I will build these for the front 3 consisting of a huge waveguide and dual JBL 15's.
I have almost $12k in these speakers and the parts are all sitting in different closets waiting. 

 
 

LG B9 65"
Panasonic DP UB820
Denon AVR-X3500H
I have this in a 5.1.2 Atmos configuration 
Energy CF-70 L&R
Energy CC-10 C
Polk S10 SL&SR
lol using my old tiny sony speakers from my old HTIAB I bought on clearance 20 years ago as my HL&HR
BIC America F12 sub
I also have a zone 2 output going to a cheap amp feeding 2- Klipsch KHO-7 outdoor speakers 
Tivo cable box
Kids gaming PC r5 1600, gtx1060 6gb, 8gb ram
and my pc can be hooked up as well.
 
My next upgrade will be the atmos speakers.   But as this is not my permanent home I want to see my future house before I decide on what of atmos speakers to get.
 
My biggest dislike is some of the features on the tv itself.  Ethernet connection is crap.  I can't use free-sync/g-sync because I still have pascal cards,  once a I get a new gpu this problem will go away  . . . when ever that is

What equipment are you all rocking in your Home Theater set up? (Displays, Media gear, Receivers, speakers, etc.)
What do you like/hate about it? 
What's the next upgrade or addition you want to make?


I use a Roku Ultra 2020 as my media streamer (has the most Dolby Vision/Atmos support across more apps than anything else... at least when I bought it). 
For 4K UHD Player I have a Panasonic UB820, but I need to build up my collection of 4K Discs.
For TV I have a 4k Vizio P Series Quantum-X 65" 2019 TV. I prefer "calibrated" to calibrated dark, with Local dimming set to medium but gamma set to 2.4. I almost never use the smart features but it supports ALL HDR standards as well as all Chromecast and Airplay. (doesn't have EARC, but I don't need it)

All my Devices connect to the brain of my Home Theater; the Marantz SR6014 Receiver. It's a 9.2 Channel receiver  (but can process 11 channels w/ an external amp)
I'm running it in a 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos configuration. For Main Left and Right Channels I'm running 2 Polk S55 Tower Speakers, a Polk S35 Center, 2 Polk S50 Side Surrounds, and for heights I've got 4 Polk S15s
(BTW if you need a GOOD speaker mount I can't recommend Rockville RHSB4s enough, multiple different mounting abilities, 180 degree rotation, and 30+ pounds support, but get better screws, mine stripped)

I love how it sounds in my space, but after having it for almost a year I'm noticing where the center channel  dialogue has noticeable imperfections at higher volumes, especially with stereo content up mixed using the Dolby Upmixer. I'm not maxing out my power delivery so I'll need to mess with that more. Also I need better Subwoofer calibration, Although after I mess with settings after a while I do notice improvement. but its a little less set it and forget it.

What's next? Well besides actually building a 4K UHD collection I want surround back speakers (my space will support them)
So I need an external amp (probably will get a 5 channel amp [or a 2 channel for L/R and 3 Channel for Center, And Surrounds] to power my mains, and leave  height channels on main AVR)2
And what I'd LIKE to do is get 2 Polk S60s and put them up front, move the S55s to the side, and placing the S50s in the surround back positions. BUT I'll probably end up getting a nother pair of S15s for surround backs or S10s.


What about YOU?