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Stagea

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Everything posted by Stagea

  1. Are you looking at used? I don't think they're still making Diamond 9.1s (unless you can find NOS units). Here's a potential option: https://www.richersounds.com/tv-home-cinema/av-receivers/yamaha-rxv381.html https://www.richersounds.com/hi-fi/standmount-speakers/mordaunt-short-speakers-per-pair.html If you're slowly building a 5.1 set, maybe consider a more recent speaker model (to allow you to complete the set later on). Example: https://www.richersounds.com/tv-home-cinema/standmount-speakers/q-acoustics-q3010-american-walnut.html
  2. Did you disconnect the subwoofer too? If it's happening with no other cables hooked up to the AVR, then better cables will not save you from the issue (since a good cable is not quieter than no cable).
  3. There are modern TVs that do accept 120Hz input, normally at a reduced resolution (say 1080p instead of the panel's native 2160p).
  4. Samsung 49MU6103 or 49MU6303 should fit within your budget. Check the OLX agents; they offer good discounts.
  5. I suggest trying to experience both (maybe in a showroom) before deciding on what to go for. If your budget is $4k or more and you're willing to do the changes to your room (controlling ambient light, wiring the projector, etc.), I'd prefer the projector. Otherwise, I'd likely favor a large flat panel TV.
  6. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-UN75MU6290-75-Inch-Ultra/dp/B073R5BJD2 https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-UN75MU6300-75-Inch-Ultra/dp/B06Y1KTT9D
  7. Something like this would do: https://www.amazon.com/VivoBook-i5-8250U-NanoEdge-Fingerprint-F510UA-AH51/dp/B0762S8PYM If she can tolerate a low screen resolution, here are other options (these come with SSDs): https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Ideapad-15-6-Performance-Laptop/dp/B076B491C7 https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-LED-Backlit-Bluetooth-MaxxAudio/dp/B075631BY6 https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Premium-Flagship-Performance-Bluetooth/dp/B0769DQG4X
  8. Name Brand below $100 (Atmos Capable): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-4K-Ultra-HD-Blu-Ray-Player-w-3D-Capability-UP870/322845886476
  9. Disconnect everything from the AVR aside from the speakers then turn the AVR on. If the buzz is no longer there, chances are it's a ground loop. Are you still using any analogue interconnect?
  10. Your friend is correct. IPS suffers from "IPS Glow" when viewed off-axis vertically. How far will you be from the wall? If you won't be close to the wall, you shouldn't worry too much. If you would be, I suggest getting a tilting mount to get the TV tilted facing the viewing area.
  11. You can use it as-is for now, then just get a better screen later on if you feel that it's inadequate. You might ruin it with a coating as not all of them are flexible enough for a roll-up setup.
  12. That LG model is brighter TV, and can work when viewing HDR content in a bright room. If you don't need that peak intensity and the IPS viewing angle, then the Samsung may be the answer. VA just works so much better in dimmer environments. I also prefer Samsung's RGB subpixels over LG's RGBW (the latter results in poor color volume).
  13. I still have a working 58" FHD Panasonic plasma. It's not been my main display for a few years now, however.
  14. I know it's been a while, but the LG UHD Bluray Player is now down to $99 at Walmart (part of the Black Friday sale).
  15. The low frequencies would definitely be hard to control with no mass barrier. For mids and highs, make sure you have some weatherstrip on the door frame and window frames to seal the room off. After that, assess where the noises are coming from (so that you can treat them). Window glass, doors, etc. are generally easier to treat than the floor, ceiling or walls. Some absorbers / diffusers inside the booth would definitely help. Can you put a heavy barrier around the closet to at least attenuate outside noise and room reflections? Maybe a curtain rail on the ceiling and very heavy drapes (if not mass loaded vinyl). Do you have a photo of your room / closet? Are you able to move the recording booth away from corners? What budget do you have in mind?
  16. Look for a different motherboard. That motherboard does not have a thunderbolt controller onboard, which is required to support UHD @ 60 Hz over the HDMI port for Intel GPUs.
  17. Have you tried considering home audio gear? If that is not your cup of tea and you like the character of your current speakers, look at the Mackie MR824. A pair will run you $500.
  18. Samsung MU8000 / MU8500 are very good for the price. Great contrast, very good uniformity, good HDR performance, wide color gamut and very low input lag. MU8000 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-65-class-64-5-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range/5773800.p?skuId=5773800 MU8500 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-65-class-64-5-diag--led-curved-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range/5773708.p?skuId=5773708 MU9000 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-65-class-64-5-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range/5773705.p?skuId=5773705
  19. What version of HDMI and HDCP does the splitter support? HDCP is often a culprit in these cases. Have you also tried another HDMI input on the TV? Some TVs don't support HDMI switches on certain ports.
  20. Marantz PM6006 / PM7005 or Yamaha A-S701 should work for most domestic playback scenarios. They are available from Amazon.DE.
  21. Try watching UHD (or even 5K / 8K) streams if your connection and system can accommodate it. They are typically much higher bitrate.
  22. The center channel is actually specified to be a full range channel for most current systems. They are just bass-managed in most cases. Granted that you do route the low frequencies to the subwoofer, the greater displacement and efficiency of the larger array will let it play louder with less distortion with everything else being the same. One downside of large arrays is comb filtering, however.
  23. A pair of these maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T50-Theater-Standing/dp/B013LIN5W2 You can always add a subwoofer later on.
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