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About WhiteSkyMage

  • Title
  • Birthday 1995-11-27

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin
  • Star Citizen

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Computer "stuff"; Gaming; Sports (Soccer);
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    i7 5820K
  • Motherboard
    Asus X99-A
  • RAM
    Corsair LPX DDR4 16GB CL13 2133MHz
  • GPU
    RX Vega 64 Liquid Cooled (EKWB)
  • Case
    Corsair Vengeance C70
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 Pro 128GB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA G1 750W
  • Cooling
    Swiftech H240-X AIO Open Loop Liquid Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Raptor K50
  • Mouse
    Corsair M95
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud Gaming Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Professional

Recent Profile Visitors

1,784 profile views
  1. I was thinking about just making it easier in a way that - a flow meter. Just have the PC shut-off when the flow gets under a certain value. But my MB doesn't have a header for that... uhhh...
  2. I know what you mean. maybe I will find a work-around, but what I am trying to do here is to protect the PC from myself. So when I think about watercooling, I also think of how to safe-guard it. But yes, I do agree with your answer - it's just, maybe not from anyone else but myself.
  3. Hi guys, I would like to discuss something important for many of you who would like to take your cooling outside your PC case and are considering using something like the MO-RA3 420 (https://watercool.de/). JayTwoCents recently uploaded a video on “How to install a PC KILL SWITCH” (video: So what do I intend to do is to use a Raspberry Pi to essentially “control” the switching on and off. Imagine a scenario where someone would like to play a prank and disconnect one of the tubes outside your case that is going into your external radiator. Imagine that you forgot to plug them in yourself after a maintenance. What would happen? Perhaps a huge leak disaster that will cost you your whole system. So here – what I would like to do is get a QUICK-DISCONNECT fitting with a 2-pin cable which will return a 1 or 0 depending on if the male part of the quick disconnect is connected or disconnected. Then connect this to a Raspberry pi that is always on (using a mini-UPS). The power switch is also to be plugged in the raspberry pi and to the motherboard power switch pins. The Raspberry pi will: NOT allow the PC to be switched on, if one the quick disconnects reads a 0, no matter how many times you press that power button on your case. NOT allow the PC to turn on at all if the raspberry pi itself is not on (due to power outage). Switch off the pump if one of the quick disconnects is suddenly pulled while the system is ON. Switch off the system by bridging the two power pins on your motherboard for x amount of seconds. Control your PWM fans (and maybe pump) speeds depending on water temperature. The question is whether there are quick disconnects out there on the market that would report whether they are disconnected or connected, like how a thermistor would report the temperature of the water in your watercooling loop to the motherboard by plugging it in the sensor header?
  4. It's actually a good time to get in there if you want to become a good pilot. There is a new flight model in the newest Alpha Patch 3.5. If you want to kick noobs' butts at release (because there is a learning curve!), then yup, it's a good time to start now. In terms of development, for me the 'real' development of Star Citizen Universe MMO has begun in 2015. Before that, they were mostly working on the Arena Commander and Hangar modules. It was about building tools and the company itself. I do not care if it takes till 2025 for the MMO-part to release. To be honest, I am more excited about SQ42 now than anything. I find it a bit shocking that they decided to develop 2 games at the same time - all I wanted was a space sim, Freelancer 2.0 to be more precise. I didn't need it to be MP, much less an MMO. I can't wait to put SQ42 on the hardest difficulty, without any tutorial and have the Vanduul shove 200 million missiles up my ship's engine hole.
  5. yes. But where are the Ryzen/Vega APU tablets then? I will not buy a Surface Pro with the shitty intel integraded HD Iris graphics. They SUCK. I need Ryzen Mobile and Vega 11 in a tablet (15W SoC). That's gonna crush both Apple A12Xs (in iPads) and anything from Qualcomm. Yes, Battery won't be long, but I can sacrifice WEIGHT and THINNESS for an even bigger battery. Maybe dual or triple batteries. I.E. I want to carry powerful BRICK of a tablet. Double the fatness of this first generation iPad. Example:
  6. A surface-like Android tablet is what I am asking for... I don't care if it costs $1000-$2000. This is how much iPads cost anyway...though I wouldn't buy an Apple device, I need an Android with the same kind of power.
  7. Qualcomm announced that really powerful SoC that looks like it can match an Apple A12/X. Why are they marketing it for laptops and not for tablets? You can have a big enough battery in an Android tablet to supply those 7W. I would like an Android tablet with the power of a console...(like the iPad has an Xbox 1 performance). I don't actually care if it weights 2kg and it being fatter than all the tablets that exist on the market currently.
  8. yes, the thing you stick paper to the wall... it seems to work for now. I don't know how much it can hold up but im hoping it would hold for at least until my new radiator is here. Hopefully Alphacool hasn't got this issue. By the way, what kind of screws should I use not to pierce the rad? They say "not long" but you have to use long ones to go through the case and through the fan and into the rad. I am sure I haven't punctured this rad and it's just a defect. But I just wanna make sure to avoid this with the alphacool one.I think they provide 30mm screws but again, isn't that too long?
  9. Blu Tack. Yup, this is water resistant it seems... I have tissues under just in case..
  10. Well I will be replacing it for sure... Most likely with an alphacool rad (I already ordered one...
  11. Well, shell or not, it leaks from there, through those holes.
  12. Stop there. Yes - it does use screws to seal the rad. Look carefully See the screws at the bottom? Yes - that is where it leaks!
  13. yes, that is what i did. I swapped the ram sticks/took hdd and ssd out, changed GPU, and reset CMOS, and took battery off and on... result: no post. Red LED on CPU and 00 q code. Everyone i asked told me it's a dead CPU. I came to the same conclusion. I can take it to a local store for testing, id pay them, but I don't expect that this CPU will ever post.
  14. It doesn't leak from there. It's the opposite side of the extensions where the leak is from. I think it may be a loose screw or something. I will not put pressure on my PC until I don't replace this radiator... There is no leak right now as the glue tag is stuck there and there is no pressure from my pump (running low speed).
  15. which "extensions" are you talking about? Do you mean the screws around the radiator?