PhantomTaco

I like the fact that it has optical image stabilization and that it doesn't look like cheap plastic like a certain other korean manufacturer...

Haven't had the time to push the voltage yet, but I have hit 1325mhz on both cards without going beyond the normal 1.21v (I think it is) that you're normally allowed to increase to. Honestly I'm just enjoying having the system up and running again for now and life has kept me from doing much beyond that. That being said I do plan to push them as high as they'll go on air.

Thing is classified's can have voltage unlocked up to something like 1.4v, and I've seen benchmarks of people pulling over 350W on a single classified before, so I decided I'd rather have plenty of extra headroom over a bit of headroom. I had an 850W PSU before. What part of it? Or just some of the sleeving itself up close?

Hey guys, another build to show off. With the launch of the H440 I was kinda excited because it was the first white case in a good while that I actually liked the look of, and I love white cases. I like to tryt o build my computers using different color schemes from most (i.e. not black and red ), and I think this one turned out pretttty good. Without further ado here's a PCPP list: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ TigerDirect) Motherboard: Gigabyte G1.SNIPER 5 EATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($231.50 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($269.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($104.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($759.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($759.99 @ Amazon) Case: NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($121.83 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ NCIX US) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (32/64-bit) ($107.80 @ NCIX US) Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-AC66 802.11b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan ($35.31 @ Amazon) Keyboard: Vortex KBT PURE PBT Wired Mini Keyboard ($111.50 @ Mechanical Keyboards) Mouse: Func MS- 3 Revision 2 Wired Laser Mouse ($49.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $3592.40 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-04 14:06 EDT-0400) I had my good friend Jappetto from over on Reddit help me make the sleeving for my PSU (which proved interesting because he had never made a sleeved set for the Supernova, so I had to end up testing the cables and getting a pin out diagram together), and I have to say his work is as always gorgeous. I don't have a lot of photos of the system at this point but here ya go: For lighting on the system I used 2 12" cathodes on either side of the side panel window, and unfortunately my phone's camera isn't very good at capturing how well they light the system. So how do you guys like it?

Thanks! Yeah I'm really loving that bridge too! There's actually a guide a followed lemme see if I can find it for you... http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=250217 Really not that hard to do, but it takes some accurate measuring, and someone with access to a cnc machine if needed.

You could always contact Jappetto over on Reddit and talk to him about getting a set made. He really focuses on letting you pick what you want and showing you a made sample so you can decide how you like it. I really enjoyed working with him and his work is top notch.

Not all CLC fans are loud, and when the fan curve is managed, even the annoying h100i yields decent noise results while still maintaining acceptable temperatures for OCs. As for the pump noise I beg to differ. With the exception of the h220's pump issues and the old h100 pump noise, a properly working CLC pump is pretty quiet. In fact last I checked Martins liquid lab did a pump noise review. Actually I have a lengthy post from Reddit berating someone who brought up a similar debate (albeit in a much more derogatory way), lemme see if I can find it for you....here it is: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1nfdd4/anandtechs_custom_liquid_cooling_guide_how_to_why/cci7kwm

Why? You're going to get the same OCs with high end air vs clc.

I'm going to take a different route than most others and criticize you specifically because you're losing sight of the goal related to purchasing cooling solutions (as almost every other hardware enthusiast). The point of getting a custom cooling solution (be it big air, clc, or full custom loop) is NOT to get the lowest temperatures possible in a utilitarian sense, but rather to get ACCEPTABLE temperatures to go with your MAXIMUM overclock. Remember that far more often than not (basically just about always) you run into voltage and OC issues LONG before you run into temperature being your problem. Most people tend to forget that thermal cutoff for intel CPUs (for example) is 105C. No it is NOT TJMAX (which only represents the temperature at the IHS, a figure you cannot possibly calculate without a temperature probe sitting in your TIM). With this in mind, the way you should look at cooling solutions changes dramatically. Yes it is nice to be able to boast that oh my 4770k loads at 38C @ 4.5ghz, but that isn't yielding you any benefits outside of epeen (and a silly form of it might I add). Instead of saying this one is better than that one, people should always be including the caveat EITHER WILL GET YOU YOUR MAX OCS. Now moving on to the next consideration to make in these scenarios, while highly subjective, is looks. I think personally that in 99% of scenarios clcs look orders of magnitude better than big air because it doesn't block out something like 30% of the view in your case, and can be made to look nice with LEDs and such. When you look at it all this way, it doesn't make half a difference which way you swing when it comes to big air vs clc, as with both (assuming you pick decent ones on both sides) are going to get you your OCs. In the end what matters is your personal preference to looks and your budget.

My votes go to the Phanteks, in just about every roundup I've seen they've been at or near the top. I've had cougars before and I just can't give them my vote because depending on orientation they can start to make a clicking noise that really pissed me off.

In terms of VRAM usage with 4k and multimonitor Guru3d did an interesting benchmark about a month or so ago looking into this specific scenario. What they found was when you have MSAA and such off VRAM usage doesn't really add up to very much. They only benchmarked Tomb Raider and Hitman but it still paints a picture: At high resolutions you're real bottleneck doesn't tend to be VRAM, but rather raw GPU horsepower. At 4k I'd imagine you probably DON'T need much AA given the pixel density, but when using multimonitor 1080p it's probably a different story. Link here http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/ultra_high_definition_pc_gaming_benchmark_review_uhd,5.html

Don't get me started on Asus mobos. This Sabertooth Z77 has been RMA'd about *counts* 4 or 5 times now? And the x58 Sabertooth before it was also rma'd once. That and I recently had another run in (today) where my asus wireless card decided to collide with my acx cooler and now I'm getting a replacement cooler shipped from EVGA (there was no GPU sag, nothing). The problem was that the wireless card (PCE AC66) has a (what I believe is) capacitor on the back of the pcb that juts out about 4mm. Left the house today and came back computer was off and wouldn't power on again .

A part of me would love to make the jump to x79, unfortunately I don't like ANY of the boards out there to date. I don't like the red and black color scheme personally (no offense ), and everything else either doesn't allow for the right spacing, has a bland color set (like the up4), or for some dumb reason has the third x16 slot in x4 (I'm looking at you Asus x79 Pro).

I actually have a second one (2/3 way bridge instead of 2 way) because I've been mulling a platform upgrade, or at least a mobo change to allow for dual slot spacing between the cards, plus they look so much cooler .

What they have is a midplate with preapplied thermal pads to cover the vrms and memory. Let me see if I can find a photo for you, yeah here it is. On the underside of the midplate there are preapplied thermal pads that cover all the vrms etc

On load with OCs they dropped from around 88C to around low-mid 70s tops. I absolutely love the coolers. As for the balls, thanks haha, my last couple builds were fully custom loop water rigs so I'm pretty used to taking apart GPUs and the like, actually quite enjoy it.

I agree to an extent, but the thing is most cases interior is black, plus an all black mobo, you end up with a really dark and gloomy inside (which is why I wanted the lightbox, or at least one reason). By having a motherboard with some color to it it brightens things up a bit. Honestly, I would LOVE to see a white motherboard, I'd be all over that and maybe a couple 780 HOFs

I'm actually looking forward to changing it TBH. While they do make for a clean looking build, the all black makes it difficult to add some color accents. For my next build I'll probably go for a board that has either yellow, orange, or maybe blue accents. I chose green because I'm tired of the typical red and black schemes with ROG boards and such, and wanted something a little different.

Most people say beneath 1.35-1.4 ish (a little too high when you're approaching 1.4 imho) is the safe high end. I load at around 88C, which is still plenty fine.

I think it's at 1.33 ish right now

Luck of the silicon lottery I guess?

I play at 1440p 120hz. Have 2 QNIX's, but only use one for gaming. Thanks it took a while to figure it all out. Actually originally the green was chosen because of the stock coolers on the Titans:

In person the lighting is actually fairly even, you have to realize that the cards look brighter because them and the sli bridge are the only parts that aren't black (fortunately or unfortunately depending on your perspective). The other reason it looks off is because my phone camera isn't all that great at getting light balance right sadly.

So I thought I'd share my most recent build, Vidar MKII. First off a quick breakdown of the parts: CPU: Intel i5 3570k @ 4.8ghz Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 RAM: Avexir Core Series 4x4gb 1600mhz White LED Cooler: Corsair H100i Fans: 6x Noiseblocker eLoops 1600rpm GPUs: EVGA GTX Titans with ACX Coolers @ 1153mhz SSD: Crucial M4 256gb HDD: 2x 2TB WD Greens, 1x WD Black, 1x Seagate Barracuda 3TB PSU: Kingwin LZP 850W Platinum EXTRAS: EVGA Pro SLI Bridge, custom made acrylic lightbox, Evercool 2 5.25 to 3 3.5 drive bay converter, and finally custom extensions by my good friend Jappetto over at Reddit's Cable Management subreddit (HUGE props to him for making a badass set of extensions) And finally without further ado, pics (apologies for size if they're big and if they're sideways, dropbox is dumb like that) So...thoughts??