TheBean

7 hours ago, SimplyChunk said:

it's just an easy thing to check first.  Could be the laptop panel was destined to be a VRR panel at the factory and it never got fully implemented by lenovo and now it can only kinda come half-on when the monitor is attached (cause attaching that would enable the G-Sync options in nVidia's control panel)

 

another way to check, if you don't have those options in the control panel. Hook it up to a 60Hz panel and test it.  Just your TV will do for an example. It's just to test after all

im using hdmi so there is no gsync

there was no option for it either in the nvidia control panel. 

45 minutes ago, p3rhaps said:

I thought about this but those kind of adaptor cables I have always found to be quite hit and miss with how reliable they are. Any suggestions?

i mean as long as you get a high quality cable, should work. dont get a cheap one. (i estimate a good one to be around 10-15usd)

ill check when I get home, but why would the problem happen on my laptop monitor that does not have any freesync/gsync?

laptop:

lenovo legion y7000p-1060 (i7-8750h + gtx 1060)

monitor:

Nixeus NX-EDG27X (using hdmi so im limited to 144hz, not the 165 that it can do)

any usbc to a cable can do that. no need for an expensive pcie card. 

why do you want to go faster than 5ghz? 

you'll only get maybe 2-3% more performance. is that worth the additional headaches?

Im getting an exceedingly strange behavior from my laptop. 

When I boot my computer (after shutdown), everything is fine. my laptop gets the normal 60hz. but if I plug my 144hz monitor in, my laptop display goes to 32hz (still shows as 60 in the display settings), and my monitor goes to approximately 102hz (shows 144 in settings). even if I go to monitor only and disable the laptop screen it shows 102hz. 

unplugging the monitor does nothing and my screen stays at 32. so every time I have to use my monitor or unplug the monitor my refresh rate gets cut in half until I do a fresh boot. (sleeping/waking does not do anything).

im getting the 32/102 numbers by looking at the ufo test. it shows that as the frame rate, but its also extremely obvious by just looking. 

another weird part is that on the monitor at least, it doesnt stay at 102. it will fluctuate a LOT. ill get random short bursts (for like half a second) of the full 144hz and then back to 102. (I can feel it when I play games). 

The attached video is what I see when I use my monitor. recorded with my phone in slow mo

I will sometimes just let fans go to 100%. shutting it down will turn off the fans so I dont turn it off

its alright guys... I didnt get any of those 3 lmao

the nixeus one was 180usd so thats a no brainer 

(no longer that price. its back to 380 on newegg)

9 hours ago, e22big said:

Gigabyte only have DP 1.2 (which is not acceptable even for this price for me)

what does this mean? I know it limits the bandwidth, but does that limit the Hz?

Its either the MSI G273QPF or the LG 27GP850-B or Gigabyte M27Q-P. They both seem incredibly similar but the msi has a slight advantage on contrast, and M27qp seems the slowest response times. msi has best stand.

Ghosting is quite noticeable to me which is why I need something fast. contrast is also quite important because I watch a lot of youtube so idk if I should go with the LG one. But I am not sure how much contrast matters if I am not in a "dark room". I always have lights on and do not use displays in the dark.

Current pricing that I could find:

27GP850-B: $300 (LG website)
G273QPF: $260 (Microcenter)
M27Q-P: $250 (out of stock currently, but hopefully I can get it when its back in stock)

context: I am currently using a 60hz ips display and the ghosting is getting very annoying to game now.

You can try resetting the network devices. if you go to the windows network settings, at the bottom there will be a network reset button. 

desktop and laptop both are on wifi?

if you open task manager and to go the performance tab, click on the wifi one. on the bottom left. there should be something like 802.11 something something. what is that there?

5 hours ago, Dedayog said:

https://www.electronicfirst.com/gift-cards/windows-10-professional-oem/?c=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyMKbBhD1ARIsANs7rEG66y85PWaaeGiUZu9PAOFpjFm5l0X-19rmZD73gUucmyU8bBujd04aAvKaEALw_wcB

maybe remove the affiliate part of the link and post the raw version (remove everything after the ?

10 hours ago, CrimsonDarkLord said:

How bad is Windows 11 actually?

Isn’t Windows 10 losing support in a couple of years time?

win11 is going backwards in a lot of ways which I dont like. win11 just looks like win10 with a fresh coat of paint but secretly made quality of life worse. I will be using win10 as long as possible. 

when it loses support, you always have the option of upgrading for free anyway. 

try unchecking the number of processors thing you have there. it should automatically use as many as available. 

free option: no personalisation options, and watermark (this is officially supported by microsoft)

~20$ option, grey market keys (I have bought 1 and have not has an issue)

100$ option: buy official windows 10 key, and upgrade

140$ option: buy official key. 

I would personally buy grey market keys. also, stick with win10.

win11 is a downgrade imho

3 minutes ago, Clintos said:

I don't have a driver installed on the fk2 to uninstall

is there one available anywhere? sometimes windows update can fix that. 

if you have another mouse temporarily, you can also go to the device manager, right click on the mouse where it usually says "HID Compliant..." and select update. then update, and select automatic

again, IMEI is only for cellular devices. So thats phones, and smart watches. no other devices have IMEI. laptops/desktops do not have an IMEI. 

looks like its potentially possible, but because its illegal, I would advise against it.

Further discussion of this will likely get this thread locked/deleted

theres no specific distro or even OS thats "best" for offline use. hell you could use windows offline. it just depends what you have saved on the device. 

download the man pages, download the OS/distro docs/wiki, download all of wikipedia. 

from my experience, if you're using a device offline, windows is honestly good at that. if theres no updates or random crap updating every 2 seconds, windows will generally not get in your way and is actually quite stable and less ways to randomly break your OS which can cause problems if you're offline. which is why im very confused and intrigued by the question, because I dont fully understand what you're asking

also, if you're offline, what networking capabilities are you talking about?

you cant as far as I know. if you're really worried that much about privacy, you shouldn't even have a phone (only cellular connected devices have IMEI). 

the IMEI is sort of like the serial number. its not something you want to change even if you could

do you rent the router from the isp or is it free? and is that router required or could you get your own?

because the ones they provide are worse than shit. 

the ones they provide are a router, modem, switch, and AP all in 1 box. and it does each task poorly because they are cheap devices just made to be barely functional. buy your own and your network will get better.

also, use ethernet where possible. like your tv (for netflix), ethernet is a must. everything that can be ethernet, should be ethernet. 

the WAN show stream just got privated. what happened? I was about 20 minutes behind live so did something happen right now?

so you're getting kicked from discord calls or form the whole internet? it could just be a discord issue if you're only getting kicked from calls.

i think dark level smearing is inherent to VA. the rated response time is usually just the **fastest** time, not the average, not the slowest. so the numbers listed are always skewed and are there purely as marketing speak.

the only way to make for sure, is to look at reviews that create those 2d spreadsheets of all the response times with the transitions (like what HardwareUnboxed do with their recent reviews)