mechanicalfluff

No.
 
Your cpu has 24 pci-e lanes.
4 go to the chipset
4 go to the first m.2 connector
16 go to first pci-e x16 slot.  These 16 lanes can be automatically split into 2 x8 slots if you insert two video cards.
 
The chipset talks to the cpu using those 4 pci-e lanes. In turn, the chipset creates additional pci-e lanes for pci-e slots, or uses those lanes for other things. The chipset can create up to 8 pci-e lanes, which can be arranged in various combinations of x1, x4 or x8 .... anyway, just look at the picture below.
 

thanks guys  needed a little sanity check 

Ubiquiti's line of cameras don't require a cloud setup to work, only a server under your control and their software. https://www.ui.com/products/#unifivideo

While they advertise a "hybrid cloud" setup, the feature that lets you stream using their website has to be specifically enabled (I double checked the documentation before recommending them). Otherwise, it just uses their controller software which is a Java based server that you install on a Windows desktop or Linux server

What you would probably be looking for is a basic, run of the mill (probably Chinese) wireless IP cam. All these name brand companies want to 'improve the user experience' by forcing them to be used with the cloud. Doing this, they can 1. make money from the cost of a subscription, and 2. give the user features that they would have to know how to set up on their own in order to use.
 
So, with that said, just be aware that if you want things like remote-viewing capabilities and recording, you need to set up your own NVR at your home.
 
I personally have used this camera.
 
It used to be the cheapest PTZ wifi IP camera on the market, not sure if it is now. But the built-in software is kinda limited. There is a hacked firmware buy the name of Dafeng Hacks that really opens it up to do whatever you want. Gives it things like ONVIF and an HTTP server.
 
It's 1080, has night vision, and really looks no different than a standard NEST cam. AND it has PTZ.
 
Edit: just read the part about weatherproofness. There's plenty of options on Ebay, take a look around!

@mechanicalfluff actually thought ur profile photo was a bug on my screen and tried to squish it XD

if going to reglue, use RTV sealer (dab in a corner) do not use cryo-glues.

You need to be in UEFI mode and GPT layout to boot from an nvme drive; it sounds like your partition layout before was MBR which means that if it simply cloned over the drive won't work in that configuration.
 
If Windows is currently installed in CSM/Legacy mode, changing to UEFI on the same drive will make it unbootable since Windows won't be able to load properly.
 
Your best bet here might be to do a fresh install; it's not something I usually advocate since cloning is a lot better than it used to be, but a simple clone in your situation won't be sufficient.
 
Edit: Also, I absolutely hate your display picture. I just tried to get it off my monitor after thinking "Ah, hell, the cat has fleas".

sniffle... sniffle.. i used to have hair lol... no hair blowing back nowadays

coming from only an hdd? almost any ssd will blow your socks off

i'd say you're better off drilling and mounting rackmount ears to a close enough sized desktop case, than you are trying to find a rackmount case that can DIY into an enthousiast level case.

I've thought of the places of which we do not speak, but my ISP is rather uptight about such locations. I don't really want to burn bridges with "alternative connection" options either
 
I like the idea of spotify, but i'd like to avoid paying for a service for stuff i already own. I do most of my recent discovery over youtube then get them on googleplay/amazon if i really want them. Podcasts usually take up most of my audio time. But as an "investment", i wanted to have high quality backups on my plex server. 
 
I might try to ebay some of the cd's, see where that gets me. might get lucky and find a 'lot' of some of the cd's i like. Otherwise i might slowly start going to hdtracks or other places to get hq versions to hold on to.
 
Thanks!

I recently stopped using MP3's and started my Spotify Premium subscription
To be honest I wasn't very keen to try it but now that I'm using it I do see benefits, Control music playing on PC via my watch, or any other combo - Having access to music I didn't try before giving my new music - Convenience  factor, no more copy to SD card, ripping CD's,etc - and a must is offline play, data is expensive and I prefer to be able to listen to music when I do not have a connection to the internet.
 
But for recovering low bitrate MP3's, sadly it isn't possible
That file has been compressed, which removes certain parts of it to make it smaller.
When they are removed, you cannot get them back unless you get the source again aka the CD.
I remember having 2 MP3's of nickelback - how you remind me. One sounded like I got used to it, but it turned out to be a low quality version. Listening to the actual CD made that clear. 
 
TL;DR
You cannot recover the file, you could get them through other means like :
Spotify
iTunes
Amazon
Or other places we do not speak about

it totally worked - can run all the usb devices i need with pci expansion cards
 
10000% better gaming at 5.1ghz --- Should've made the move a long time ago

Yah, the GPU will pull PCIe lanes directly from the CPU and the add-on cards will grab from the chipset. Even if you add in an M.2 later and it pulls PCIe lanes directly from the CPU and the GPU operates at 8x, you'll suffer no frame loss (we're talking margin of error levels low at worst).
 
Just make sure you update the BIOS on the Z170 board to support the 7700K

"ddrescue" can be used to copy one drive to another, including every single bit on the device, such as the partition table. ddrescue is a variant of dd that is designed for cloning potentially damaged drives/filesystems. But be careful - I don't know what "dd" actually stands for, but it is colloquially known as "data destroyer". It will happily do exactly what you tell it to do - meaning that if you put the wrong destination (output) device, it will start writing data on that device without any further confirmation.
 
I recommend this procedure:
-get a Live CD ISO, like Ubuntu, and make a bootable USB drive, or burn to a disc (a Live CD or Live DVD means that it isn't just used for installing, you can actually boot directly off of it)
-turn off your computer and unplug every drive except the source (failing 2TB) and destination (8TB). Boot from the prepared media.
-open a terminal and use gparted, fdisk, lsblk, whatever you need to in order to determine which device (e.g. /dev/sdb) is the 2TB drive and which is the 8TB. It should be easy due to the size difference. CAREFULLY WRITE THESE DOWN
-Follow the ddrescue instructions (not the dd ones) at this page: https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Disk_cloning replacing sdX with the source (input) disk and the sdY with the destination (output). I am not responsible if you swap these and erase your 2TB drive. Input first then output.
-You can now shut down the Live CD (do a proper shutdown from the terminal or GUI, in case there is any data cached in memory that needs to be flushed) and disconnect the 2TB drive. If you leave both drives connected at the same time, there will be a conflict because they now will have the same IDs which are supposed to be unique (they will still have different serial numbers, but the dd will bring over all the filesystem headers exactly). You can now reconnect the other 2TB drives and boot up the system. It should recognize the 8TB drive as being exactly the same as the old 2TB drive. 
-once you are certain that the 8TB drive has all the data from the 2TB drive, and is accepted by your system without issue, you can start thinking about expanding it to use the remaining space. Do not try to do anything to the partition table, like try to expand partitions using gparted or other tools, until you know it is working.
-if the 8TB drive is not accepted as an exact copy of the 2TB drive, we will need to know mor einformation. You will still be able to shut down the system, and swap the 8TB drive with the dying 2TB drive, and boot back up to be exactly where you were at the start.

how about getting a 6700k for your current server, or doing that and using z170 board as your desktop as it would be faster at games.
 
power wise a idle r710 is about 130 w with low power chips(dual quads) and would be slower than a i7 cpu wise. there kinda loud.
 
 

Good catch  thanks
 
Heck, i'll even save it and grab a cheapo xeon on ebay and use it as a nas/transcoding box

Ahh, up and running. Well, it makes sense that the program completely takes over the drives, that way even the OS can't make any changes while cloning.

I'd just reboot the system first before going straight for a format, would be a much less likelihood of losing data, then try again.

will do - thanks
Will also try on a linux machine.
 
If all fails, i guess i'll go grab another drive and hope to migrate

Best lens I own is the SEL35F28Z. The size and lens hood is perfect to not have to worry about the camera.
 
As for a good all-rounder SEL1670Z
 
Wait a while on a 2nd hand resale site, they all drop to below half the new price.
 
Be very weary of the faster lenses because of the extra size. Also consider if you want to settle on APS-C or Full frame lenses, if you want to leave the upgrade possibility open.

Yup
 
also, for fun, you can get an M42 screw mount adapter and canon FD adpater for like $10 - and get awesome legacy lenses for pennnies on ebay!
 
Good for playing with, and trying out different focal lengths - some legacy glass is actually very sharp for very little money 
 
- no AF or anything so all manual - but worth it  
 
 
 

For an E-mount lens that is versatile enough for both photo and video, I recommend the 18-105 f/4 OSS PZ.

Just to jump on the band wagon I would also recommend the 18-105. I have a lot of Sony e mount lenses lol and I use the 18- 105 more than any lens. It's a great all around lens. Also people like to think the 16-70 is so much better because it's a zeiss but it's really not. So don't waste your money on that one. It performs identically but has 2x the cost and less focal length. Plus if you are doing video the power zoom on the 18-105 is very nice to have.

For this sort of thing, with a camera like the A5000, the 18-105 lens would be sufficient.  Get spare batteries (or USB power banks if the camera can utilize them).
 
Any other lens you want or plan to get, get them for other purposes and not to film those corporate training videos.  For example, get them because you want a very fast lens with super shallow DOF or you want a long telephoto for sports photography or super wide to capture wide field views.
 
If you are going to film presentations, I recommend that you consider adding the powerpoint slides as images during post processing.  Slides projected onto a projection screen do not always look their best when being filmed.  Film them anyway when someone is giving a presentation, but think about replacing them in post with images you add to the NLE timeline.
 
As for the lighting... believe me, you may think the lighting in the locations you will be filming is enough because they appear bright to your eyes, to the camera it will be a different story.