Altecice

Ahh I assumed your m.2 would be empty... You could do what you've suggested but it is quite a bit of effort. As @cekcons has suggested, it may be best to create a 2nd partition on the 1TB M.2. Install your fresh windows installation on that and then within your new Windows install, rename your previous Windows folder Windows.old and let Disk Cleanup remove it. You could then shuffle your data/partitions however you'd like.

I suspect they stop updating the list soon after first release. Even if they continue to support the board via bios updates I doubt they retest more memory.

I suspect they stop updating the list soon after first release. Even if they continue to support the board via bios updates I doubt they retest more memory.

Yep so I now have my PG35 and its awesome! for sure however, I find leaving HDR on 24/7 is distracting on the desktop with the dimming zones. Makes everything look almost foggy... So I just resort to turning it on via the hotkey when launching a game. 😄

Edit: Welp I just played with the sdr brightness and its MUCH better now, HDR stays on! 😛

Yep so I now have my PG35 and its awesome! for sure however, I find leaving HDR on 24/7 is distracting on the desktop with the dimming zones. Makes everything look almost foggy... So I just resort to turning it on via the hotkey when launching a game. 😄

Edit: Welp I just played with the sdr brightness and its MUCH better now, HDR stays on! 😛

A quick rundown of the settings i use now to achieve that accuracity.
 
Monitor OSD
Overclocking - 200Hz
 
Blue light filter - level 0 (disabled)
 
Color:
Contrast - 50
Red - 94
Green - 100
Blue - 97
 
Image:
OD - normal
Veriable Backlight - fast
Auto black level - off
 
System setup
Eco mode - off
 
 
Windows HDR settings
Brightness for SDR content - 0
This results in a target peak brightness for SDR content of 100 nits, which is what SDR is mastered for. You can control that however you want to achieve higher brightness but 0 is most accurate.
 
 
You can try to copy those settings, due to it's fairly good factory calibration they might be applicable for your unit. If they look bad somehow you can of course reset them or tweak to your liking.
 

The color clamping works quite well in Windows, that's not the problem. Using this monitor in Windows HDR actually does clamp the gamut to sRGB for all standard apps that don't specifically call for DCI-P3 or any other color space. The problem that remains is the inaccuracity of colors like a wrong gamma curve, black crush, etc. Even with the hardware tools i have there is sadly no fix to that other than just leaving HDR disabled when it's not needed. But you actually got me interested, i have a few things that came to my mind right now. I'm gonna pull out my colorimeter again tonight and play around with some settings. If i find something that helps, i'll let you know.

Well thanks for your input, its been very helpful!
Regarding HDR on the desktop, I did a bit of reading around and perhaps might have found a solution. It turns out AMDs drivers have the ability to clamp sRGB colour space baked into the driver (Nvidia does not)... tbh I don't know why Windows is still trash at managing colour. Anyway the point is, some smart person has decided to write a little program to enable it within Nvidia drivers natively. 

Taming the Wide Gamut using sRGB Emulation | PC Monitors

GitHub - ledoge/novideo_srgb: sRGB clamp for wide gamut monitors on NVIDIA GPUs

May be of use to you!

Yes, HDR and SDR are different picture modes so you can set the backlight to different behavior depending on which one it is you're currently using. I also keep HDR disabled in windows to avoid any color inaccuracities and weird tonemapping when windows converts SDR content to your HDR monitor. With windows 11 there is the Win+Alt+B shortcut that quickly disables/enables HDR. So whenever i start an HDR game, i quickly press the hotkey combo to enable HDR and disable it again after closing said game. But if you don't care about a slightly more inaccurate SDR image you can also keep HDR permanently enabled in windows. But inside the monitor's HDR picture mode you can obviously not disable the FALD dimming if it's a bit distracting during desktop useage.

In Win S-Frame
http://www.inwin-style.com/en/goods.php?act=view&id=S-Frame

Im sorry have have you seen there new "cheap" IMAC for $1000. Its a damn dual core with intel 5000 graphics and 8gb of DDR3. I could sure as hell build something better for that money.

They run a butchered Linux Kernal.
 
They are locked down tight.
 
All the fan boys insist "ohh I don't need an antivirus its a MAC" ... WRONG.
 
They ARE overpriced for what they are.
 
 
 
*fishing line out*
 
 
 
----
 
ps - I don't hate Apple its just my reasons I Dislike them.

In Win S-Frame
http://www.inwin-style.com/en/goods.php?act=view&id=S-Frame

WD external drives are notorious for having the mini/micro USB ports go bad on them. Might be worth taking apart the enclosure and directly plugging the drive into a desktop and see if you can get all your files that way.

Yep  I'm using XenOrchestra these days instead of XenCenter tho

yes.

If its worth the $49 to you then go for it. I myself store anything "important" on my RAID10 server so I have no need for my desktop to be redundant. 

Now that you have taken the heatsink off the CPU you have no choice. You need to clean off and replace the thermal compound. What you're describing is perfectly normal and correct on a laptop CPU as they are missing the IHS that desktop CPU's have to allow them to distribute the heat more efficiently, so need the extra thermal compound to act as the TIM or buffer for the gap between the CPU and the heatsink.

Now that you have taken the heatsink off the CPU you have no choice. You need to clean off and replace the thermal compound. What you're describing is perfectly normal and correct on a laptop CPU as they are missing the IHS that desktop CPU's have to allow them to distribute the heat more efficiently, so need the extra thermal compound to act as the TIM or buffer for the gap between the CPU and the heatsink.

Now that you have taken the heatsink off the CPU you have no choice. You need to clean off and replace the thermal compound. What you're describing is perfectly normal and correct on a laptop CPU as they are missing the IHS that desktop CPU's have to allow them to distribute the heat more efficiently, so need the extra thermal compound to act as the TIM or buffer for the gap between the CPU and the heatsink.

I believe you are just used to the fast speed of SSDs.

@Altecice they didnt quote you but... here

Wow this worked thank you so much

The update is a gradual release update. Meaning they slowly push the update out in batches to stop some unforeseen bug from wiping out the whole Windows user base.
 
You can download it manually here if you want it now :https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

You want the OOBE (Out Of Box Experience). This is what big OEM's like DELL,HP will do for home use computers.
 
 
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/hardware/commercialize/manufacture/desktop/boot-windows-to-audit-mode-or-oobe