Contreramanjaro

I built in a 4000D fairly recently and the main things I don't like are the flimsy-feeling front grill, the filter on the top doesn't have a very snug fit, and the power button doesn't have a ton of tactility. Other than that, it was easy to build in, had plenty of room for most things. One thing to note is that the way the cable management holes are lined up makes it basically impossible to use a right-angle SATA cable with rear-facing SATA ports, like was included with my MSI board. The way 2.5" drives are mounted, it also won't fit on the SSD side. I had to dig a cable out of the cable box that came with my old X38 board. I'm using a be quiet Dark Rock 4 on a Ryzen 7700X and thermals have not been a concern at all with the CPU happily boosting with no thermal throttling that I've witnessed. It's kind of an OP cooler, but that's how I like it. Also worth noting that the GPU doesn't get a ton of direct airflow, so I'm leaning more towards a high-pressure setup. I also got the version with the tinted glass side panel because I care not for RGB and the only thing you can see through it is the red Radeon logo, which looks pretty cool IMO. As far as noise, I guess that depends on your fans because there's not much of anything blocking sound. IMG_8559.HEIC IMG_8560.HEIC IMG_8361.HEIC IMG_8366.heic

One thing to keep in mind is that phones don't charge at a constant speed. As the battery charges, especially with fast chargers, they can get hot and the speed will drop to keep it in a safe operating window. Furthermore, the first and last 15% or so will charge more slowly for similar reasons. With iPhone, leaving "optimized battery charging" and "clean energy charging" enabled in the battery settings will deliberately slow charge your phone to keep battery health high. Battery health is one of the reasons I purposefully slow charge my phone much of the time, but the importance of this really depends on how often you upgrade. When it comes to cables and bricks, I really recommend sticking with known brands that have an image to keep up and some kind of accountability. Ugreen and Anker for example. I just saw too many dollar store lightning cables snapped off in the port back when I was a tech to take the risk. When it comes to the 7 minute charging thing, someb0dys is right. That's not happening with any cable or brick. To get the best fast charging speeds, put your phone in a well-ventilated area so it can stay as cool as possible. iPhones also like to do some background work when they're plugged in and on Wi-Fi such as backing up your photos to iCloud, which can make even more heat. for the few minutes that takes. Disable "optimized battery charging" at night if you want fast charging around the clock, but personally, I think this is a clever iPhone feature. It's also worth asking if any of your "charging stations" could be made more efficient by using a multi-port charger like this 40W Anker that can do 40W on a single port, or 2x 20W on dual ports. It's on sale for $19 which works out to $9 per device and takes up fewer outlets than two bricks. You can also keep old some old chargers in service for AirPods and Apple Watch since, if I'm remembering correctly, those max out at 2.5W anyways. Beside that, $14 per brick is about what these things cost right now and you're not going to do much better outside of sales. Also, Amazon Prime Day is coming up on Oct 10, so there might be some decent sales.

You mean like you have a wheel already and you want to use it for racing games on PC? I think you could use a direct drive wheel base, like the Moza R5 with an adapter. There are other brands as well.

This is a good point. I bought a used PC with an AIO and the block went bad a year or so later. It was an Enermax, so hardly a surprise. I need to fix up that X79 PC... I could find something to with it it.

I was just going to say it sounds like a bad paste job, old dried up paste, or a bad mount.

AFAIK those were just held on with the thermal pads.

This sounds like wireless interference to me. IIRC the G602 receiver was 600MHz so I wonder what may be operating in that range. Are there any wireless routers or anything like that nearby? Have you tried using the front USB in case or a USB port from a powered hub?

Are you talking about the Reapers? It looks like the heat spreaders are held in with just screws so it's probably not too hard. You'll probably need new thermal pads though. Also sometimes you can damage the RAM when you remove heat spreaders if they were stuck on.

I discovered it after some very frustrating trial and error. Windows handles it a little better than my work Mac OS computer. I had to sit in noise cancelled silence during a long meeting. No background music.

So, most bluetooth headphones have two modes: a low-latency mode for phone calls/chat, and a standard mode. Smartphones are pretty good about switching between these seamlessly as needed. Windows seems to have trouble with it more. You might just need to disable the hands free version in your sound controls.

That depends on your monitor. Most PC monitors can do full range on the pixel format with no issues. HDR in windows is a bit dramatic so I prefer it off most of the time. You can see my settings for my gaming monitor here. It's an Acer CB281HK. Nothing special.

The TP-Link AC1750 might be a good fit for you. It's fully gigabit and on sale. I know it's a little over budget but I think you might appreciate the extra 2.4GHz speed if you're trying to reach upstairs. And yeah, Fast Ethernet is max 100Mbps, kind of dumb haha.

Have you checked either the pixel format and color options on this page in the AMD software? Or perhaps the HDR settings in Window itself?

Did you install both the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth drivers directly from Intel for the AX200? Under drivers and software here: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/189347/intel-wi-fi-6-ax200-gig.html

You can get replacement coax cables pretty easily from ebay. I've replaced plenty of them when I was a phone tech a few years ago.