MadHatter5045

~$700 and growing...

Since the reference model of the 780 Ti you guys have is a golden overclocker it's really not indicative of that model's performance for most people. I feel like you guys should play the bin lottery again and get a different reference 780 Ti so it doesn't skew the benchmarks.

First, to get it out of the way, Please do not reply with "Switch to Afterburner." I don't feel that helps anything. Thank you. Ok, so I'm completely new at overclocking GPUs. What I've done is raised the core clock on my 780 Ti until I had problems with artifacts/crashing and then backed the core clock back off. This netted me an offset of +181 for a working clock of 1200mhz. I stopped seeing artifacts in Valley at +205 (1224mhz), but FarCry3 was crashing. To my brain that said "needs more voltage." I understand that this crosses a line, but Precision X has the tool right there, only when I make adjustments to the voltage it doesn't do anything and just stays at stock (1175mv). I'm cooled with water so temps are not any of issue here, it never exceeds 51C. Is the overvoltage tool on Precision X just for looks? Why did I have to keep backing down from 1224mhz to 1200mhz after the artifacting stopped? Am I even overclocking right? More questions may arise as answers come. Thanks in advance.

Just wondering what TIMs different people prefer when installing a block on a GPU and why. I used the TIM that came with my Koolance block when I installed it on my 780 Ti last night just because I knew it's non-conductive, no hiccups so far.

Good news, I cleaned it again and reinstalled the stock cooler so I could sell it as broken and gave it one more try before I listed it just to make absolutely sure, and it worked! I'd like to eventually add it (back) into the loop, but for now I'm just enjoying having it back again. Thanks for all the help everyone!

I connected the stock fan to its output on the card to see if it would spin up. It did not. I believe this confirms the card is gone. FML

Bare with me I'm going to sound like an idiot: the GPU itself looks like a diamond inside a square. I applied enough TIM to spread over the diamond (when I disassembled the block there was almost no overage). Should I be applying enough TIM to cover the whole square or just the diamond inside (like I tried to do)?

Answering in order: 1. (Before I posted) I reseated it, crossed my fingers, and prayed. No dice. I said a lot of bad words. 2. (Right now) I took the block back off of it and am cleaning it. 3. My board doesn't have integrated. 4. Really really wish I had another card Should I switch to a different (non conductive) TIM? I have Arctic Silver 5 and the Koolance TIM that came with my CPU block (dunno if either of those are non conductive) Thanks everyone

So after all the planning, research, and prep my POST signal says "No VGA" . I have an XFX HD 6950 (695X-CDDC), the block is a Watercool Heatkiller X3 6870 (fits my card), I used IC Diamond thermal compound. The monitor indicates it is connected when I plug the cable into the card (not sure if that's indicative of anything), but no picture and the POST message tells the tale... So is there a way to troubleshoot and fix this? The only thing wasn't smooth about installing the block was cleaning the old thermal compound off, omg there was a lot of it.

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I'm planning my first loop and I keep going back and forth on whether I want to use a manifold or a quick disconnect for draining. I keep leaning towards the quick disconnect for the clean simplicity, but the idea of flow restriction sways me back towards a manifold. How much would the quick disconnect restrict the flow? Thanks in advance