ShadowChaser

Been really struggling in the battery life department on my latest laptop. My previous daily driver was an XPS 13 9350 and it would consistently last through an 8 hour school/work day with 30% of battery left, and when needed could be stretched to about 12 hours of light use (google docs). My current daily driver can barely get 5 hours of use in a similar use case - note taking (both typing and writing) and video playback (YT or twitch). Granted, I am only charging it to 80% via the MyAsus app, which is the equivalent of a 50Whr battery instead of 56Whr in the older XPS, but the newer laptop is pulling 10-13W when the older drew 5-7W under the same circumstances. Brightness was roughly matched to my eye, all running the same background apps. Relevant details below. The power settings I've tweaked with (Win 10) are: Silent profile in Armory Crate Battery Saver profile in Windows CPU utilization limited to 30% on battery dGPU disabled Screen refresh set to 60 instead of 120 It's worth noting that all I needed to do on the XPS was a mild undervolt and activate battery saver mode, but that was also a much simpler laptop. I was able to undervolt the 8250U to get the extra juice to get from 10 hours to 12 hours on the XPS via ThrottleStop, but I can't seem to find anything for mobile ryzen cpus that is comparable. As a student having to plug in between classes or carry an extra battery bank around is mildly infuriating. I haven't had to ration my battery like this in forever... My X13 is the 5900HS/3050Ti MQ spec with 16G/1TB if that matters. Any suggestions would be welcome!

I would personally get a slightly larger CPU cooler and better SSDs. The U12s would probably struggle to cool a 127K under full load and the S7 is only a Moderate NVME on NewMaxx's SSD list. I would suggest a 140mm tower - a decent one from Thermalright is about the same cost, for instance; as well as a better SSD, something along the lines of a Hynix P31, Crucial P5, HP EX920, etc. Minor nitpicks, truthfully, but those parts felt out of place in a $2k+ build

At that resolution I'm fairly certain you will be GPU bound in most titles, therefore it makes more sense to go with a 6700XT over a 6600XT. Without knowing which titles specifically I'm afraid that's all the advice I can give. Both CPUs will be quite capable for gaming, assuming that the motherboards don't power limit their respective CPUs. I only know of asrock doing this off the top of my head but I would not be shocked if other lower end boards did the same. The 2nd config is the one I'd feel more confident recommending an inexperienced builder since it's more balanced and has a better PSU. The SSDs are of similar quality, motherboards nothing to write home about, so it's just down to your choice. Nothing stopping you from getting a better PSU for the 1st config either. Just my $0.02

Hi all, I use an MX Anywhere 2s for travel (basically any work away from my desktop) and it's starting to get a little worn - the side grips don't fit in the channels anymore and are becoming more and more of a nuisance. Can this be solved with some heat and glue or will I need to source new grips? All suggestions welcome!

I have a salvaged LP156WFG from a gaming laptop and would like to turn it into a portable monitor since it's ips and high refresh. From some preliminary searching the only boards that explicitly state compatibility are ancient and use weird inputs, so I'd like to avoid them if possible. I stumbled across one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000715818110.html that claims high refresh support but doesn't list any compatible panels. My question is this: why can't I use any random eDP controller board provided it is the correct pin and lane count? Is there some driver that needs to be loaded onto these fpgas or something? My knowledge is extremely limited on the matter.

I had an MSI Aero 1070Ti begin to die earlier this year and it finally kicked the bucket a day later in February, right as the gpu crisis was getting really bad. I thought it was funny at the moment since I had contemplated buying a 3060Ti earlier in December. I was sitting in the checkout page, everything ready to go, but chickened out at the last second because I thought 'eh, this old thing will be plenty for the next year' and 'I can just wait for the 2nd hand market' since that was what I did to get the 1070Ti in the first place. It had survived me dropping it, spilling water from its loop, even an accidental short, but it one day just stopped powering on after a day of odd BSODs. But hey, at least it fetched $400 on eBay XD. I then ran a GT730 for a few months until I was able to get both a 1080 and a 3060 very shortly after for very reasonable prices

Here's the thing though, I know Razer isn't the best, but I'm also not entirely convinced about the Flow X13. It's a great laptop, I'm sure, but I'm not ready to drop $2800 for the whole setup when I have a 3060 and 1080 already, the enclosure I'm building costs $150, and the Razer Book was $1200. I would have loved the X13, honestly, since it's basically got the Book beat in every way. It's only got a 1 year warranty, though. My unit's got 2, and from my experience with previous gaming notebooks, they're engineered to die right after that warranty period unless you hardly use it at all. I'd rather drop the money on a $1200 unit with something I can carry onwards as opposed to a $1500 laptop and a $1500 dock that can't be operated without the other. Trust me, I looked long and hard at the X13 before ultimately saying no x_x Edit: also you basically can't get it anywhere Didn't even realize this until I actually looked at retailers

Yeah, I really hoped that someone out there would test 30-series with the older boxes. I'm getting an eGPU mainly since I have a few cuda workloads I'd like to run and honestly as nice as a desktop + laptop setup is, I'm a little tired of shuffling files around so I'm ditching the desktop for an egpu. Don't plan on doing a ton of serious gaming though so I can stomach the extra cost of a 1080/3060 despite those not really being significantly better at gaming over TB3 The XPS 13 is also soon to be replaced by a Razer Book 13, so I can even do a little bit of gaming on the go with xe graphics. I would have gone ryzen but none of the high end 13" ultraportables I was interested in had them :c thunderbolt/usb4 on ryzen still seems like a unicorn after all.

I'm probably one of the dozens of people where an eGPU setup makes sense, but with all the shortages and gpus being hard to find, empirical data on eGPUs or x4 PCIe has also been hard to find. In the past, the rule of thumb was a 10-20% framerate deficit running an external display, and roughly double that when passed back to the internal display. I wanted to know if this is still the case, better, or worse now that pcie 4.0 gpus are mainstream. It would dictate whether I use a GTX 1080 or an RTX 3060 as my external gpu. (rtx doesn't matter and those 2 are close enough in both power draw and compute/gaming performance for me) My current knowledge is all based on the 10 and 20-series which is pcie 3.0, my enclosure is pcie 3.0, and TB4 enclosures or adapters aren't exactly a thing yet. I plan on testing for myself once all the components for the enclosure arrive in July but until then if anyone could shed some light on the matter or point me towards any resources I'd appreciate it!

Tried a clean install, still nothing. Just going to go through ebay and get a refund it seems. Ebay, yep. Bid on an older gpu and got a decent price for it Can't run gpu-z in safe mode. In wddm mode it just says GTX 1060 but no clocks or mem

Installed but not running: afterburner and gpu-z

gpu is bone stock and cool as a cucumber

Hoping this will fix my issue

I thought that would be the cause of the first 2 bsods but doesn't explain why rebooting results in bootlooping forgot to mention that I predownloaded all the drivers and installed them with networking disabled after the first ddu attempt

Purchased a GTX 1060 to tide me over until stock gets better and have been having issues with it, here's a quick rundown of what's been going on. I plugged it into my open air bench and saw that it showed up under device manager as a gtx 1060 using the previously installed nvidia driver (461.33), moments later BSODed with page fault in nonpaged area referencing nvlddmkm.sys. Booted into safe mode, DDUed all drivers, tried again. 1060 is now a windows basic display adapter but still present in device manager. Downloaded latest nvidia driver (465.89) and while installing got a video tdr failure BSOD also referencing nvlddmkm.sys Safe mode once again to DDU the driver just in case, then downloaded an older driver (461.92), same thing happens. I then try 460.89 (and 461.72) and it installs and gives me the restart prompt. I click restart and the PC begins bootlooping until the windows recovery environment starts. I've tried all the pcie slots on this motherboard and all video output has been through the igpu at the moment. The slots and psu previously powered a gtx 1070 Ti and have been verified with an RX 580 and GTX 1070 on loan from a very nice friend. Windows driver installation has been disabled and the latest attempts were done offline. Specs: Asus Z170-A i5-6500T 1x16gb Corsair LPX 2666 Segotep 600W gold Samsung pm851 128gb + win10 pro Any help would be appreciated!

I hope you meant x299 and 10900X instead of x99 and 10900 x99 only supports the first generation of lga 2011 cpus (haswell/broadwell-e) the 10900 is lga 1200, the 10900X is lga 2011-v3 As for your block, check the manual for compatibility but I wouldn't keep my hopes up. 2011 is a big socket.

This occurs when the motherboard manufacturer essentially 'auto overclocks' the cpu you install. By disabling the multicore enhancement or similar option in bios you then bring all the power and voltages back to the official intel spec and should not be producing excessive heat and drawing excessive power.

hah, don't have any gpus that are capable of mining at the moment since my 1070Ti is resting in pieces (worst time, really) Maybe in a few days once the 1060 I scored off ebay arrives (for way too much, I might add) For the $110 each Tesla cost, they're practically worth their weight in gold to me right now since I can enable wddm mode and still game on them!

*glances at his p104-90 with a 92mm zip tied on* Granted it's still pulling roughly 300k PPD! Not a bad little rescue And my pride and joy(s), dual Tesla M40s that cost me $1.30 to run everyday, but it's for a good cause!

Woah that interface looks amazing! Is that something homebrew or is it someone I can pull off a github repo or register online for? Time to spin up the old Teslas and get them working hard again! This calls for more than cpu grunt

Vetroo V5 for cheap hyper 212 but better Scythe Fuma 2 for high end but not noctua pricing

if you have multicore enhancement or an equivalent turned on in bios, I'd try turning it off first. The 9900K is also a hot chip so while a 120mm may be alright for a 9700K it is definitely getting slaughtered by a 9900K once you put any load on it. I'd also check your mounting pressure - a thinner application of TIM might actually be better at showing you if anything went wrong during the mount. Definitely invest in a better cooler, though.

if you bought a thin and light, you also bought into doing good maintenance. If you did in fact take good care of the laptop then that really sucks, but companies upsell you warranties for a reason - 99% of the users don't need it, but for the 1% who do and don't have it, it's even more lucrative than selling it to you in the first place. Laptops, especially thin, hot running ones, will always, always find a way to get dusty no matter how clean the environment is. I dust my Aero 15X out every month with compressed air and every three months I remove the fans to clean those and any dust bunnies that may have formed between them and the heatsink fins. Just because you don't see dust doesn't mean it's not there. Assuming you did take good care of it... man, that really sucks. My condolences on the death of a good machine. Untimely deaths of electronics happen. It's just how it is. Some people have gpus from 20 years ago still chugging along and many others have gpus that die after 2 years or even less. My 1070Ti kicked the bucket after 3 years of use under water and showed no signs of it until one day just not booting anymore, while I also still have an Athlon XP system kicking around doing random things. I'm hoping that a repaste and reset will fix it, fingers crossed.

The ranking has this as a caption: "Based on TPU review data: "Performance Summary" at 1920x1080, 4K for 2080 Ti and faster." So yes, they are ranked based on benchmark performance in games. Not sure how they calculate the ranking for server GPUs but those tend to be similar to desktop counterparts in wddm mode. For $170 I'd try and shoot for a GTX 970. Unlikely you'll get anything better but that is leagues ahead of a 550

In the current market something better than a 1050 that you can actually buy would probably be a GTX 970, 3gb GTX 1060, or a 4gb -70/-80 Polaris card. Those all land in the $200 range roughly assuming you are willing to place your bets on ebay. Not great value, for sure, but it's about as good as you can get in this landscape other than botting or looking for local deals.