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ShadowChaser

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Everything posted by ShadowChaser

  1. Reflashing the BIOS has fixed the issue (not a new bios, even though I should do that) I should've tried this from the beginning but I hope that's not something to be concerned about.
  2. There does not appear to be any software on the amd side that can disable prochot for mobile chips sadly. I can't find anything as all the results are for desktop cpus.
  3. throttlestop is intel only but I have tried ryzen controller which does not have the ability to change these flags. I don't like the idea of disabling a safety measure to begin with though.
  4. This is a bit of an odd one for me. My Asus Flow X13 is behaving as if it is thermal throttling despite nothing externally appearing wrong. Checking HWinfo64 the flags for thermal throttling are on under both HTC and PROCHOT EXT but I can't find any sensor reading that seems off-nominal. Could this be a software bug somewhere or is something I can't see getting hot? The last time this happened it was because one of the fans was left unplugged after a cleaning (oops) but this time that does not appear to be the case as I can manually force the fans on in software. This happened after it died overnight (thanks windows modern standby) after draining the battery. I plugged it in and at no point has the CPU been allowed to clock beyond 400mhz. In the past when I see it getting locked a quick plug and unplug of the power cable or swapping performance modes fixes it, or a power cycle if those fail. This is the first time it's persisted so I'm left scratching my head on what I can do. I have tried: Different performance profiles in both windows and armoury crate Switching between battery and wall power Rebooting/Powering from cold Manually forcing on fans in case it is something getting warm in the vicinity of the cooler If it is software, should I be looking at wiping my install and starting fresh with windows or is the problem potentially deeper than that? If it is hardware, where do I even begin to try and isolate what's causing the issue? I'm planning on repasting this notebook soon but I imagine that if something is getting toasty it's because it's not contacting the cooling solution.
  5. Breaking down my options and what I personally want in a laptop, it does appear that the FW 13 leads the pack. Funny how that works, right? Daily Use Flow X13 (2021) Flow X13 (iGP) Flow X13 (4070) FW 13 AMD FW 16 (iGP) FW 16 (7700S) CPU 5900HS (+) 7940HS (+) 7940HS (*) 7840U (+) 7840HS (+) 7840HS Memory 16GB DDR4 (-) 16GB DDR5 (*) 32GB DDR5 (+) 32GB DDR5 (+) 64GB DDR5 (+) 64GB DDR5 GPU 3050 Ti (40W) (*) 780M (++) 4070 (60W) (*) 780M (*) 780M (+) 7700S (100W) Display Size 13.4" 16:10 (+) 13.4" 16:10 (+) 13.4" 16:10 (++) 13.5" 3:2 (--) 16" 16:10 (--) 16" 16:10 Display Res. 1200p 167ppi (*) 1200p 167ppi (+) 1600p 225ppi (+) 1504p 201ppi (+) 1600p 189ppi (+) 1600p 189ppi Refresh Rate 120hz (*) 120hz (7ms) (+) 165hz (3ms) (-) 60hz (+) 165hz (9ms) (+) 165hz (9ms) Touch Yes (+) Yes (+) Yes (-) No (-) No (-) No Storage 1TB (-) 512GB (*) 1TB (+) 1TB (++) 1TB (++) 1TB Battery Size 62Whr (+) 75Whr (+) 75Whr (*) 61Whr (+) 85Whr (+) 85Whr USB 4 0x (*) 1x (*) 1x (+) 2x (+) 2x (+) 2x USB A 1x (*) 1x (*) 1x (+) 2x (+) 2x (+) 2x USB C 2x (*) 2x (*) 2x (+) 2x (+) 2x (+) 2x DP/HDMI HDMI (*) HDMI (*) HDMI (+) DP+HDMI (+) DP+HDMI (+) DP+HDMI Weight 1.3kg (+) 1.3kg (+) 1.3kg (+) 1.3kg (*) 2.1kg (-) 2.4kg Sub-score 0 3 9 8 8 8 Servicing Storage 2230 M.2 (*) 2230 M.2 (*) 2230 M.2 --- (*) 2230 M.2 (*) 2230 M.2 Storage --- --- --- (+) 2280 M.2 (+) 2280 M.2 (+) 2280 M.2 WLAN None (+) E Key M.2 (+) E Key M.2 (+) E Key M.2 (+) E Key M.2 (+) E Key M.2 Memory Soldered (-) Soldered (-) Soldered (+) 2x SODIMM (+) 2x SODIMM (+) 2x SODIMM I/O None (*) None (*) None (+) 4 Modules (++) 6 Modules (++) 6 Modules GPU No (*) No (*) No (*) No (+) Yes (+) Yes Dust Fair (*) Fair (*) Fair (*) Fair (-) Poor (-) Poor Sub-score 0 0 0 4 5 5 Other Build Quality Good (+) Good (+) Good (++) Excellent (*) Fair (*) Fair Skin-ability Good (*) Good (*) Good (+) Excellent (+) Excellent (+) Excellent 2-in-1 Yes (+) Yes (+) Yes (*) No (*) No (*) No Fingerprint Yes (-) No (-) No (+) Yes (+) Yes (+) Yes IR Cam No (+) Yes (+) Yes (-) No (-) No (-) No Stylus Yes (*) No (+) Yes --- --- --- Sub-score 0 2 3 3 1 1 SCORE --- 5 12 15 14 14 Price $1,200 $1,100 $2,500 $1,403 $1,877 $2,240 VALUE 0.455 0.480 1.069 0.746 0.625
  6. Batch 5 Pre-order (Barebones with GPU and Expansion Bay) and I'm, like many others, very excited about this laptop. I really hope they address the lack of support in the keyboard deck but if it truly is as easy as shimming with a thermal pad (or something similar) I think I could live with it. I'm still on the fence about it though. Based on the timing of the upcoming batches, this will essentially be a graduation gift for myself as a Bachelor's degree well-earned. I'm expecting to pursue a Master's so I will still need a fairly powerful & portable machine. Thankfully the FW16 looks to be just that. My thoughts are below. Pros: Modularity - 6 user defined ports + ability to add/remove a dGPU is amazing. Solid battery life - I've missed the old days where thin & lights got 12 hours of battery life and this is going in the right direction. Bring your own everything - I'm so happy I can kit this out with 64 or 96 GB of ram and not have to also get a giant SSD with that config or vice versa. Cons: 16" Footprint is huge - I used to daily a 15" thin & light and couldn't live with it in a college setting. 13 and 14 inchers are far more appropriate to me. Panel gaps - I'm sure these will get grimy fast and I hate dealing with little crevices that dust can collect in. Speaker grilles are my worst enemy. Price - the preorder is $2.2k plus another $200 for storage and ram. Over $2.5k after tax. It's funny that the primary contender I'm considering isn't in the same class in just about any metric, except for CPU performance. I've had a Flow X13 for a few years now and my alternative would be to upgrade to the latest iGPU only model because the 780m would be good enough for any gaming I do, but if we're keeping things fair then I should use the one with the 4070 as a comparison since that's $2.5k retail. The X13 checked all the boxes for me personally because it was the only 13" 2-in-1 performance laptop that has good battery life. I'm reasonably certain this is no longer true, however, but the latest version is quite compelling. And it's this apples to oranges comparison that makes choosing one over the other so difficult. Maybe I should just throw in the towel and split the difference by getting a FW 13 AMD edition instead.
  7. There's no real solution for the gpu without installing a vga cooler unfortunately or massively altering the stock heatsink assembly.
  8. To be completely honest you should use one of these: https://www.newegg.com/silver-raijintek-0r100006/p/2T3-0007-00003 Plus some cheapo heatsinks to slap on the memory ICs if you wanted to cool this gpu the way you want to. But for that amount of money you probably could've gotten a better GPU to begin with... such is life.
  9. Noctua 4020s are inaudible - Get about 150W of TGP at 80C Arctic 4038s @5k rpm are drony - Get about 180W of TGP at 80C (This is what I daily drive as F@H rarely needs more power than this) Arctic 4038s @15k rpm are jet engines - Get the full 250W TGP at ~65-70C Originally I got this for some local LLM but 24GB of vram is getting borderline for some of the larger creative writing models and the token generation rate of Pascal is just not it chief. I think I'll be getting something Turing based for inference in the future. In the meantime, this is generating science and keeping my apartment warm
  10. do you have room to attach two 40mm fans on the end? Due to the heatsink design it isn't possible to flow air in the way you've described. The finstack is enclosed at the end that you want to attach fans to. It's harder to describe but if you look through the fins it'll be pretty obvious what I mean. I recently designed this adapter to put dual 40mm fans on my P40. Regular 40mm fans can screw in and deeper fans clip on. When I tried with regular noctua 4020s it is somewhat borderline but with proper server fans it can be cooled but is loud.
  11. not talking about the 5600. That thing sips power and doesn't get hot anyway. The case fans I've had since the very beginning so the $15 or so per fan hardly matters anymore The Tesla is probably 6 or 7 years old and doesn't look like it's been serviced in those years. I have it as supplemental heat since Pascal GPUs don't push as many points in F@H as they used to.
  12. The recent F@H sprints have allowed me to revive my PC of Theseus that has existed in some form since 2019. Currently the only things remaining from the original build are just the fans and case, but it's fun to see this thing still hanging around. The latest iteration is just a mish-mash of spare parts I had laying around to get some extra points and warm up my apartment: CPU: Ryzen 5 5600 Mobo: AsRock B550 PG4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x16GB 2666 GPU0: EVGA RTX 3060Ti FTW3 GPU1: Nvidia Tesla P40 Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB PSU: Revolution D.F. 650W All this built into a Raijintek Ponos and uses Noctua Redux 140 and 120s as case fans. The Tesla P40 has a dual 40mm adapter I designed and is cooled by Arctic 40mm server fans. Pretty pleased with the cable management in this iteration. For a budget case the Ponos is pretty good on cable routing options and that has always come in handy whenever I build in this chassis. I can't quite get the P40 to dissipate more than 200-ish watts without the fans going screamo mode but I haven't repasted it yet. Hopefully that'll allow me to drop a few degrees and let me fun the 40mm fans at a more reasonable rpm. It is living in a hallway where the ambient temperature is about 15C so that does help matters a little
  13. The cold snap hitting us has me considering bringing the Tesla P40 I have back online. An extra 250W might help with the temperature at night as this apartment has terrible insulation only question is what computer to chuck it in and how to cool it since the server that used to house it no longer exists.
  14. 41% on my evga, 50% on an FE. Those numbers roughly point to a minimum tgp of ~100W. Wonder what they tweaked to get GA104M to run at sub 100W and as much as I'd like to also fold on my CPUs the power bill this month is already too high XD
  15. oh yes, I was just using that as an example my nvidia gpus tend to run ~60% of their max power draw so there's not really any point tweaking the PL and stuff but the amd ones tend to run closer to their limits so I will drop it as much as the software will allow.
  16. I would too if most of my computers weren't complete hot boxes. I'd drop my power limit by 20% and call it a day. Miss the days when gpus topped out around 200W
  17. Yeah I just wish that you could edit the v/f curve in afterburner on amd like you can with nvidia. Guess I need to actually learn how to use MPT now
  18. I debated using MPT or not and it looks a little too complicated for a plug and chug sort of operation. Maybe in a few years when I retire this card and try and get as much out of it as I can. I'm not power or thermally restricted in my daily use case but going from 550W total system power down to about 400 without any perceivable performance loss is pretty good in my book. If I do something stupid like trying to stuff this gpu into a Fractal Terra again then maybe I'll invest the time and budget to do it right. Shocking! Jokes aside I dislike running this card at 350W+ but if you use that as a baseline...
  19. I know the 6950XT is pushed a little far beyond the optimal spot on the VF curve so for my daily use I simply dropped the PL by 10% and let it chug away happily at the 255W TGP that results. I got interested in seeing how much further down the VF curve I could go considering that a 10% drop in power is the maximum that AMD supports on this guy compared to the 40%+ on other GPUs. I would be interested in seeing how other 6950XTs compare but I doubt people bought this card just to kneecap it with ridiculous limitations I used Afterburner to make changes though Adrenaline would be fine as well, Time Spy to verify stability, and Furmark (1080p 8xMSAA) to get worst-case power draw. My testing was mostly limited by how much time the Time Spy stress test takes to run as well as how this card simply refuses to run all core loads at lower power (as is to be expected given the original PL limitation) Undervolt Target Clock Power (W) Core Clock Core Voltage Time Spy FPS Avg (20 pass) %diff FPS %diff Power Furmark Power Furmark FPS %diff FPS %diff Power -10PL Stock N/A 255 2235 1006mv 131 --- --- 255 114 --- --- 1080mv 2400 245 2330 956mv 137 4.58 -3.92 272 121 6.14 6.67 1090mv 2300 220 2235 900mv 132 0.76 -13.73 245 117 2.63 -3.92 The baseline is the -10% PL that I have been dailying and so the goal was to match performance while pulling less power. Should be easy, right? My best result had the card running at 2235mhz @ 0.881v but it was borderline unstable so bumping it up to 0.9v cleared things right up. A power reduction of over 30W in a traditional rendering scenario is pretty solid IMHO and even under a torture test it still drew less power than the original power limit change. This GPU really doesn't like to be worked hard under 0.9v I've found. Not sure why that is, perhaps it's so low that the vf curve just falls off. Maybe someone with more knowledge on how AMD's powerplay tables works could educate me on this as I've only really UC/UVed Nvidia GPUs in the past and they tend to be just as happy running at 0.85v as 1.05v.
  20. sometimes some f@h WUs are just really hard on hardware. My 3060Ti crashed out of nowhere on one specific WU despite that undervolt being rock solid for literal months playing games or rendering/simulating
  21. What are people running in the top 10 to get PPD so high? Or are 4090s just that op and I'm getting old >_>
  22. I did manage to scrounge around and get enough parts to get my EVGA card up and running. Figured that this was an event that deserved having this gpu work a little instead of living in a display next to my desk Too bad AMD cards aren't great for crunching numbers, but tagging out my 6950XT for another 3060Ti will be great for my power bill XD
  23. Can't wait to finally get heat back in my apartment Electric bill will suck but it'll be worth it
  24. I really enjoyed the way Corsair engineered their compact gaming/workstation computers in the way that the whole system is cooled by a single fan (a la Mac Pro Trashcan), but could never bring myself to buy one due to the high asking price. The NZXT H1 is similar in size and footprint and I personally liked it, though the One does a much better job with the rear i/o so I wanted to build something that had easily accessible i/o (front and rear), was liquid cooled using a single fan pulling air through the chassis, and was still performant yet quiet under load, all while costing less than an equivalently specced Corsair One (doubtful). I'll keep a running total of all parts costs pre-tax through the writeup and include a PCPP list at the end! My parts choices were distinctly last gen and probably not the best use of the money, but I was happy with how I spent it and that's what matters, right? And how did I do compared to a (roughly equivalent) Corsair One? The a200 is specced with a better 5900X but an inferior 3080, and is the closest analogue to my build here. That computer cost $2600 compared to the $2100 I spent, though it does have a 2.5" HDD in it and double the SSD storage... With that said, the Terra also supports a 2.5" drive and there's a spare M.2 slot on the back of the board. Had I spent a little more on storage I'd reach parity there and still have saved hundreds! Using "saved" in this context is rather meaningless considering the cost of all the superfluous watercooling hardware though, haha. Building the system itself was quite tedious. I came in prepared to be frustrated and I was proven correct as there just is not a ton of room to work with. With that said, the performance of the system did not disappoint. While it would saturate the loop if both CPU and GPU were running full tilt, the water loop was able to dissipate about 300W under steady state. Given that only about half of each radiator was being used to its full potential, I am happy with this result. That was more than enough power budget for gaming, and that is what I brought with me to LTX 2023. I really like the Fractal Terra! The reps at LTX were also super stoked that I managed to cram this much hardware into a case as small as this guy here. The case itself just looks stunning and the internals are very well laid out. I wish the power cable and GPU support bracket weren't so intrusive as to prevent installation of a second fan (the screw holes are even there!) and that the front i/o included a second USB-A port, but apart from those two minor gripes, there's really very little to complain about. The materials feel premium and justify the price, plus it's very easy to build in. None of my difficulties encountered in the build process were fault of the chassis itself, after all. Beauty shots of the Terra in its natural habitat: The Internals: After LTX, I decided to swap components between my two systems. My main rig got the new CPU and GPU, and the Terra got the 5800X and 3060Ti out of my NCase. These two components were far better suited for the ~300W power budget afforded by this build and it has run beautifully in the months since. Maintenance has been fairly simple - I placed the QDCs in the loop in such a way that I can unhook both side panels easily for dusting. It also makes the loop easy to service. I can fill or drain the whole thing next to the sink and bleed each radiator individually. It is more time consuming, yes, but not a headache like other res-less builds I've done. Was it worth spending $600 on water cooling components for this build? Absolutely not. Those same parts would perform the same if not better in this case air cooled! What about the hours I put into the build? Also probably not worth it. I spent so much time tuning power and thermals, modeling and making small modifications, all for a silly idea. The end result, however, is something I adore. I love how it looks almost completely stock from a distance. I absolutely love this computer now that I never have to go through the pain of building a custom loop inside a case utterly incompatible with one. I love how a full setup can travel in my LTT backpack to LANs and events. I've learned a lot that can be applied to future impractically small water cooled builds. I feel like I've redeemed myself from the horrid Node 202 loop I did years ago with something that I can feel good displaying on my table Having used this computer for about 6 months, I have some small housekeeping items I'd like to address in this build in the future. I want to lap that coldplate so that there isn't a 30 degree C delta between my CPU and GPU temps under full combined load (F@H I'm looking at you). Shame on Nuovolo for skimping on this considering that the block was almost $150! Some nice to haves would be fan speed control based off of coolant temp - this board doesn't support a temp sensor so I'll probably have to go with something like an Aquacomputer Quadro. I think I should also install a second fan or wire up the PSU fan to the motherboard/quadro to keep it running constantly and improve thermals. PCPP List: Thanks for the read and Happy New Year If you have questions or comments, fire away!
  25. The off-brand DDC I have in my NCase + Iceman loop is starting to run loud and hot and I'd like to replace it with something that's more performant and can be speed controlled. I'm not sure if I should go with the lower power, lower performance DDC-1T from Laing or the higher power, higher performance DDC 4.2 from EK. I know the EK uses SATA instead of Molex but since I have no other SATA or Molex devices I need to run dedicated power for this pump anyway. I am fairly certain the water pump header on my motherboard supports up to 3A of power so I could potentially rewire the pump into a standard 4-pin fan connector. Would I expect to see dramatically decreased performance with the DDC-1T given that the loop is fairly constricted? Given that DDCs are more pressure optimized than D5s I'd expect it to be a non-issue but if anyone has more experience on the matter could chip in just to make sure that would be great. 2x XSPC TX240 Bykski 3070 GPU Block EK Quantum AM4 CPU Block Since both are DDC pumps the pump base should be the same thickness, right? Assuming that I am keeping the stock plastic housing and not installing any metal housing or heatsink. The 1T is quite a bit cheaper than the 4.2 so if it's adequate for my needs I'd just choose that one. If anyone would like to share their experience with either of these pumps I'd appreciate it!
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