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Thanks. Yeah definitely liking the card. A huge step up from my once state-of-the-art 670.
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It looked like everyone used the translucent so I went with pastel just for something different. I just didn't need the LC setup anymore. It was a fun experiment to do but the pump rattled the steel case too much no matter how I mounted/dampened it. Plus the 970 runs cool enough on it's own that I can OC it almost to the point of artifacting without going over 80C. The backplate and lighting on the 970 looks pretty awesome as well.
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Haha I tried a pellet gun on a scrap piece and it just shattered the whole thing. Even on thicker stuff the cracks would be too unpredictable in size.
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Thanks! Yeah I probably could have unplugged the stuff from the front before I took these.
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Thanks for the comments guys! See my above comment for how I did the bullet holes.
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Thanks a lot! The bullet holes were done with a drill and a hammer and chisel. The drill was obviously for the hole and I hammered the chisel against the edge of the hole to get it to crack. The 1/8" Lexan is tougher stuff than you'd think. Took quite a bit of force to make it crack!
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Hi Everyone, Here are some pics of my recently upgraded C70 build. V1 of this rig had liquid cooling which I removed for several reasons when I upgraded my GTX 670 to a 970. These pics are first. The mobo is a Sabertooth Z77 and I have a Corsair H105 cooling my 3770K. The bullet holes in the acrylic are my favourite touch! I made a little plexiglass mount for my HDD and HyperX 3K SSD with a Makerbot 2 and my school's laser acrylilc cutter after I ripped out all the drive bays for my LC setup. Yes, I made a ghetto-morphic lens filter for a couple of those shots... Thanks for checking it out!
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Here's a bizarre question for you guys: have you ever heard of a video card water-block causing a short circuit on the PCB? When the water-block is installed the system won't turn on but when the stock cooler's installed it does. It's an all copper block and I used non-conductive thermal paste. I emailed Aqua Computer to see if they've seen this before but I'm not sure what to do. Would wrapping non-essential surfaces in electrical tape to slowly eliminate contact points be a bad idea? It's safe to say I am completely baffled.
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Hi everyone, sorry for the lack of updates. I'm in the process of pressure testing my loop (typing this from my Surface) and man have I had some issues. First of all the C70 isn't that big of a case so finding somewhere for the pump was tough. I've had to disassemble and reassemble this thing at least a few times due to a pump hooked up backwards, a punctured rad line, leaky angle fittings etc. This thing is looking more ghetto than I would have liked but I just want to get it running and I'll pretty it up later. Hopefully I'll have some pics up in the next couple days.
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Thanks for all the positive feedback guys! Midterms are over and my liquid cooling gear is coming in tomorrow, progress pics to come!
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Thanks for the help, I'll stick with the 620W then.
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One question for you guys before I proceed: What kind of wattage does a typical pump draw? I have a 620W SeaSonic PSU that looks slick and I'd really like to avoid spending more money on another one. Do you think I'll be cutting it close by powering a CPU and GPU (both OC'd), 6 fans, a pump, and the normal stuff with this? I feel pretty dumb asking help on my own thread but I don't want to buy a new PSU and I don't want to burn anything out. Thanks!
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Just placed a large order at Performance-PCs so I should hopefully be getting parts in next week. In the meantime I'll design and print a video card backplate - it should be pretty awesome! Stay tuned for process pics.
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Glad you guys like it! I got the idea to hide the DVD drive behind the case cover from a YouTube video but I took it a step further and instead of just pushing on the false-front in the right spot to contact the button, I soldered on a + and - extension on the underside of the drive switch (some dis-assembly required). I routed those wires around back and plugged them into the reset switch leads (instead of plugging it into the mobo). To get the case to act as a false-front I took the front facing off my DVD drive and stuck the C70 part on with double sided tape. *Note the actual DVD drive switch still works as it goes to the same place and does the same thing as the "missile launch switch" on the front panel. Once I take this thing apart to add liquid cooling components I can do a more in-depth "how-to" if you guys would like.
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Haha yeah that will definitely be getting covered with a custom backplate! Stay tuned for CAD concepts and pics!