Hikaru12

So NVME drives get their own special section of the chipset that doesn't count against the lanes from the Graphics and CPU? It's been a long time since I've looked at the architecture changes on how things get routed on the motherboard so this is good to know.

The above quoted specs from one of the forum members says otherwise: Intel® Z270 Chipset : 1 x M.2 Socket 3, with M key, type 2242/2260/2280 storage devices support (SATA & PCIE 3.0 x 4 mode)*1 1 x M.2 Socket 3, with M key, type 2242/2260/2280 storage devices support (PCIE 3.0 x 4 mode)*1 The one in the back is SATA and PCIE from my understanding. I didn't know the M.2 connector supports both nor did I know that NVME was the method by which communication with the PCIE bus was setup. That makes sense now that M.2 is just the form factor and connector type.

Hmm I figured it would only be sata so is this a special type of board that can run both? How is it able to support both a SATA SSD and a NVME drive in the back at the same time? The one on the top underneath the ROG heatsink logo is strictly NVME only. I don't personally want to do 2 NVME's but I do want to keep everything clean inside the case. I have room for 2 SATA SSD's but I don't want to have to use them unless necessary. I'll go with a 1TB SATA M.2 in the back if that's supported. I have a 1TB 960 evo on the top slot.

I got an Asus ROG Z270i board, love it but the only problem is the M.2 on the back of the board seems to be capped to SATA M.2 which has greatly fallen in popularity to NVME. Would it possible for me to put a NVME M.2 on the SATA M.2 slot on the back of the board and have it work (albeit, at greatly reduced speeds)? I'd be willing to do this until I could upgrade the board. I find it very strange that Asus decided to go with this setup as I thought the Kaby Lake Series of chips had 28 PCIE lanes available so the GFX card would take x16 and the other two NVME's would take x4 each respectively. Not sure what kept them back from this.

That sounds about right. What do you suggest I do with those 120s I have hanging around? I have a 60mm 120 and another 45mm 120. This were purchased a while back before 240s were cheaper than they are now.

It would be a custom loop. I probably should have clarified in the OP.

I've got a 45mm 120mm radiator that just about fits inside my case (380T). I could fit a slim 240mm in here better but that's an additional cost (not significant but still adds up). I'm wondering if the 120 would be enough to cool a 7600k to 4.8ghz overclock or if I should aim for the larger surface area of the 240. As far as I'm aware surface area is superior to rad thickness. Thanks. Edit: This would be for a custom loop.

I guess to better phrase my question is screen tearing likely at high frame rates? I know at low frame rates you're more likely to get it as the monitor will likely be at a higher refresh rate than the card is putting out.

I've been looking at some 2560x1080 144hz monitors, so I know they're easy to drive. I don't expect many dips below 90-100fps with a 1070. Should I even bother caring about if it's GSync or Freesync? Freesync is pretty bad for being on spec and it's hard to know the range of each monitor without doing some heavy digging. Can I expect many screen tears at high framerates?

Yea I've heard that because the PPI is so low. How's the scaling for games from 3440x1440p to 2560x1080? Is there any noticeable difference? Black bars and the like?

This guy claimed issues with that setup: Not sure why that's the case, he says the 1080P scales as it should on a 1440P screen. I think the hype is too much on Volta, I believe it'll be around the TI's performance level if only a little bit better at around the same price or around $500 but I'd like to be proven wrong. Regardless, I need to go with Team Green because I have certain applications that require Nvidia better driver support when it comes to OpenGL so if it reduces the price of current gen cards I'm all for it.

That would leave me with black bars all around the screen though and ruin the immersiveness. I'm not convinced Volta is going to run TI performance levels off the bat, not enough for Nvidia to seriously reduce the price of their card but I could be wrong. Everything is skewed right now because of the miners. That's a tough call. At that price point the X34 is only $30 more on Amazon right now but I'd have to at least jump to a 1080 which is another $200 to even begin to touch the 1440P resolution. I've seen one without Gsync for that monitor for $500-$600 but didn't know if there were better options (the one I'm referring to has brightness issues).

The cost of the hardware to run the X34 is a bit more than I'd like to pay overall so I'm looking to upgrade from my current 29" LG Ultrawide with one closest matching the X34 with the following: 34" 2560 x 1080 resolution IPS Screen 100hz minimum refresh rate Gsync (if necessary) This monitor would be paired with a 1070. Let me know if you need any more info. Let me know your suggestions. $800 budget.

It's been very difficult finding someone who has owned both sets of these cans but I'd like to try. I have a $1k budget and I have a Burson Soloist amp which pairs nicely with neutral or brighter type headphones. I'm trying to decide between the HD800 or the Koss ESP 950. Koss is no longer made in the States as I've learned but they have a lifetime warranty on the cans. They're also a bit cheaper. I've been curious on trying Electrostats for a while and would eventually upgrade the amp down the line with a Stax compatible one. On the other hand, because the Burson amp is considered slightly warm it should clean up the 6khz spike in the HD800's. I don't personally feel like investing the time in modding them. Are there any other options I should be looking at? I listen to everything but mainly hip hop and electronic. I'm not a basshead so that's not a priority. Thanks.

I love Team Red but I've had the best luck with Team Green in terms of driver support and OpenGL support in emulators that require it (like Cemu). I'm looking to sell my RX 480. It seems like the mining craze has died down so I'm wondering what a good price to sell it for would be? I'm looking to upgrade to a 1070 in the near future. Any help is appreciated.

I've actually connected the modem directly to the wall instead of how I had it (a power strip connected to another power strip) and it seems to be holding the upstream level at 43dbV so we'll see if it continues. This may have fixed the issue.

I found -this- signal booster which is bidirectional which I've heard some good things from. I might use that with your suggestion of a 2 way splitter. I've been planning on switching the home phone which goes from POTS to Coaxial over a RJ11 adapter modem to Google Voice w/ a Odaheim box. I want to get this sorted out now before I upgrade to a Docsis 3.1 modem w/ a 200Mbps plan (right now I'm running a 25mbps which is starting to not cut it anymore) because I've heard Docsis 3.1 specs are even more tighter and stringent.

I've checked the power levels and the upstream seems to be too high. It fluctuates as right now it's steady at 44 but sometimes it goes as high up as 50 or so so I have a strong feeling that's the issue. I also notice that, that's where it gets stuck when the modem reboots as the downstream works just fine and is within spec. It's a DOCSIS 3.0 Motorola SB6121 cable modem. I took a look outside at my cable box. It's using a 1000MHZ 3 way splitter with -5.5DB loss at each end. I'm wondering if upgrading this splitter outside to a higher MHZ band would help the upstream power level? I've thought about buying a coaxial amplifier but I heard that introduces unwanted noise which can affect my downstream power levels too. What are my options? For the record, my log states most of my issues are T3 related. This rebooting happens every few hours to every day or so.

Hi guys, I have two users who are running Windows 7 who need their machines upgraded to Windows 10. I attempted to do in place upgrades as the easiest way to preserve files and settings but I get weird issues like, the default user profile changes, browser home pages don’t copy over, Office 2016 Word, etc wants to run Setup files for each new user, etc. Therefore, I created a clean image which I intend to wipe these machines with. My issue is these machines are multi-user (3 users total use each machine throughout the day) and they save stuff to the desktop, etc. and have specific settings in Outlook, like rules, etc. Is there a free software program I can use to back all this stuff up? I'd like to back it up to the same drive that's getting wiped on a different partition as I don't have any flash drives or external drives to backup to (if I did I would just use the built in Windows 7 backup tool). Thanks.

From the benchmarks it looks like it's around a 10 second difference so with GPU acceleration might not be a huge deal. I'm thinking 7600k might work here.

I'm wondering how much a difference hyperthreading makes in Handbrake to justify the $100 in price difference. I plan on putting this under custom water so I should be able to hit at least 4.8.

I'm planning a HTPC build where I'll be gaming at 1080P and also doing Handbrake encoding of Blurays to prepare the media for Kodi. My question should I go with an 1800x or a 7700k? I already have a z270 board and Ryzen doesn't have any mini itx boards worth a damn out yet. I'm willing to wait so that is not an issue. Thanks!

Well I was thinking of doing a Tee Valve, the Apogee and the radiator. Would be a tight fit but it should work if I keep to the same thicknesses as the AIOs.

Top kek

I've tried searching for this online and come up short. From what I can see it can accomodate a 25mm fan and a 45mm thick radiator with a SFX PSU or a 30mm w/ fan with a regular ATX PSU. I wanted to see if I could get my EK 60mm in there with an SFX power supply. Because their is no back 120mm I can't rear exterior mount it either. Trying to avoid going with an AIO if possible. Would couple it with an Apogee Drive.