Srishunbagasundaran

This was exactly what was wrong turns out a small clip on the cpu cable wasn't connected, thanks for the help!

1. Try re-plugging every cable on both ends, make sure they are plugged in properly
2. re-seat every component making sure they are seated properly.
Something might  not be plugged in correctly.

1. Try re-plugging every cable on both ends, make sure they are plugged in properly
2. re-seat every component making sure they are seated properly.
Something might  not be plugged in correctly.

So what's your available bandwidth and ping to the nearest IXP (Internet Exchange Point)?
Depending on that you might not be able to host anywhere near 100 players.
 
Then we can talk hardware...

pretty sure it's Lian Li building the pc, Razer's just licensing their brand. So if Lian Li is good build quality, it's probably good build quality.

no since it's royalty free monitor producers should not be charging extra for it, unike g-sync. So people are paying for other features such as aspect ratio, panel, HDR, etc.
And free sync has 0 -ve impact on hardware performance without amd gpu.

no since it's royalty free monitor producers should not be charging extra for it, unike g-sync. So people are paying for other features such as aspect ratio, panel, HDR, etc.
And free sync has 0 -ve impact on hardware performance without amd gpu.

Your cpu officially supports maximum 2133 Mhz as you can see here (scroll down to memory specs): https://ark.intel.com/products/95443/Intel-Core-i5-7200U-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3-10-GHz-
 
Unofficially, the processor is most likely capable of higher frequencies but it's up to the motherboard manufacturer to make the board well enough (layout of physical wires aka traces on the circuit board, placement of slots etc) and to program the BIOS to recognize and configure higher frequencies. 
 
The memory sticks have a tiny memory chip which contain several presets, some that are standardized by JEDEC (an organization that does memory standards) and some that are non-standard. Your memory sticks probably contain presets for 1866 mhz, 2133 Mhz and 2400 Mhz and the bios of your laptop probably automatically picks the highest preset that it supports which would be 2133 Mhz.
The bios may or may not have somewhere the option to force the higher preset, 2400 Mhz.
 
However, my guess is that increasing the frequency really won't give you a significant plus in performance.

Memory Specifications
Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type) 32 GB Memory Types DDR4-2133, LPDDR3-1866, DDR3L-1600 Max # of Memory Channels 2 Max Memory Bandwidth 34.1 GB/s ECC Memory Supported ‡ No https://ark.intel.com/products/95443/Intel-Core-i5-7200U-Processor-3M-Cache-up-to-3-10-GHz-

I won't deny Egypt is hotter than Aus. during summer. But my point still stands 75c is fine for a gpu. Technically 80c is fine. I think you're supposed to start getting worried when it hits 90c. And since you wont be overclocking you will be fine.
 
I'd go for the msi one over the g1. I'm positive it's a better performing card and the utility software is way better. I use msi afterburner with my g1 instead of the gigabyte one. Easy to monitor temps and lower voltages if you start feeling worried.

I've spoke to the FP team about this, and this issue should now be resolved. If not, please let me know and I'll pass it on, but please also open the dev console (F12) and take a screenshot of any errors.

http://www.wsgf.org/mgl/uws
this should give you an idea of which games have native support and lead you to how to play unsupported in uw

You're being a bit aggressive, buddy, no one works for you here, we're all just trying to help. The absolute most of current games and almost all future games will support, so it's very common, but if you have a problem with watching content or playing one or two games with black bars, go with the normal one which won't give you any problems.

I don't think intel is the only way to go. I assume, so long as you have enough cores + smt you can get a good primary gaming + 2ndary excellent streaming vm. So, threadripper would work.
On the other end, I'd love to know how small could you go, and still have good gaming (60+ fps at v. high) and stable streaming 1080p 60fps 4500kbs and 720p 60fps 3500 kbps.

to get the most out ryzen the higher MHz the better, the recommended is 3000. If you can, definitley go for it, you'll be getting your monies worth.
LIke others have said, the cooler you originally chose is not significantly better than the stock one. But I would forgo oc for now, I don't know your experience with oc, I am assuming you are new. I'd do a lot more research on the subject before spending money, just my advice.

Don't bother with the Hyper T2. Use the stock cooler unless you want to overclock. In which case consider something like the Cryorig H7.
 
Consider a B450 motherboard.
 
The chosen memory makes no sense and will perform poorly.
 
The system doesn't need a psu anywhere near 750W. A 550W unit is more than enough.
 
I'd suggest a slightly less expensive fan.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor  ($149.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($89.89 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($138.85 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: ADATA - Ultimate SU650 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($39.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K3000 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($59.93 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Asus - Radeon RX 580 4GB Dual Video Card  ($183.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Thermaltake - Versa N21 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($47.97 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($63.62 @ B&H) 
Optical Drive: Lite-On - iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer  ($13.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case Fan: be quiet! - SilentWings 3 PWM 50.5 CFM  120mm Fan  ($19.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Monitor: AOC - G2460PF 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor  ($196.03 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1004.24
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-16 00:56 EDT-0400

Ghost Recon Wildlands, really good game even if it is buggy

Can someone explain Steamlabs OBS vs uhh, normal OBS?

All g, I totally understand the desire to get an immediate upgrade, especially when the benefits are pretty clear. The temptation is very real.

Thanks for seeing my side of the story. In hindsight, I should have just gone with my gut to save up for the 1080 TI, since I'd achieve results (relatively) close to that of a 1080 by overclocking my card. Have a great day, and enjoy your GTX 1080, haha.

wait, since it's not a necessary upgrade. Patience is your friend and your desire for immediate satisfaction is your enemy.

You're absolutely right; it's not a necessary upgrade. Thank you for the reply, and the advice.
Well, that settles it. I'll wait a few more months, and pick up a 1080 TI at around the current price! (Hopefully, lower.)

wait, since it's not a necessary upgrade. Patience is your friend and your desire for immediate satisfaction is your enemy.

I agree 100%. Their positioning also feels a bit close which might be limited due to space reasons but something like the RT podcast which has a great set, proper lighting, great audio mixing, mic stands, and mic quality.

So after watching The WAN Show and picking up that Linus+Luke were regarding a better audio setup. I really feel I needed to pitch in as I feel Focusrite got them a decent setup, but not what I would call fit for purpose.
 
I'm not really after doing some d*ck swinging competition, but I've got nearly 10 years of experience of recording sound - mostly in the studio - but more recently on set for films, commercials, interviews, etc. I've recorded for global clients, and a bunch of celebs, and I'm pursuing a PhD in cutting-edge audio technology. All I'm saying is there'll be some decent info below, not some 4-times regurgitated information from a tutorial for Gamerz (RGB is not included in this post).
 
 
Firstly, I want to start with an analysis of the current audio setup - what its' problems are and where it's doing well.
Distortion: This is the first issue I want to touch on. It drives me mad that it clips like crazy every time they (mostly Luke) talks loudly or laughs. It's more difficult to deal with this 'for beginners' in a live situation, but with the right equipment, it can be done. The Microphone: AKG414 (XLS?). Well, this is a great mic. Really. It's versatile (due to its interchangeable polar patterns), robust, and sounds great. Very popular on stage and in the music studio. Problem is, you've only got one, and to get a decent sound you do have to keep it close enough to your face that the mic and stand in camera frame (this may or may not be an issue you're bothered about). I'd suggest this is not the correct selection; two lesser microphones for half the price may well be more appropriate. The Studio/Environment: The reverb isn't too distracting (although this can be improved on), and other people making noise off set doesn't appear to be an issue.  
 
My recommendations are based on these problems I hear.
 
 
Distortion:
My guess this distortion is coming from peaking (or overloading) the ADC (analogue-to-digital-converter), by means of having the preamps set too high. Of course, you need your preamps set high enough to get a good signal; for beginners, it's a constant battle between getting a good signal and not peaking it. 
Quite simply, you need the right hardware (and/or software) to manage your levels.
 
The first piece of hardware I'm recommending in is a new sound card. Focusrite make great stuff, but you need something with the ease-of-use that Focusrite doesn't provide. The Sound Devices MixPre-3M (or MixPre-3) fits your requirements: It has analogue limiters which are extremely hard to peak, and the quality of audio you can get from it is more than just great. Edit: The reason for using analogue limiters is that they limit the audio signal before the ADC digitises the clipping: Once the clipping is digitised, it's practically impossible to get out using software processing.
 
It's your all-in-one solution sound card where you don't necessarily need any more hardware/software to manage your audio (think: software compression & EQ plugins), but it could help improve your audio. Also note that the MixPre is designed to also be a portable recorder, so it can double-up to provide these features in your dual-system filming operations.
 
 
Microphone Selection:
The selection comes down to a complex interaction of various factors. I'm omitting lavaliere mics: Too much hassle and potential problems.
I'm going to assume you don't want microphones or stands in camera frame - it's less distracting, doesn't get in your way, you avoid plosives (breath pops) and rumble transduced through the stand, and just looks more professional. If this is the case, then you'll want to avoid dynamic mics as they're less sensitive. As long as you remember to turn phantom power on (as you have been with the AKG414), you'll do just fine.
 
My suggestion is setting up two condenser mics - one each - just out the top of frame. What sort of mics and their positioning is more had to provide conjecture on without trying a few things out first.
 
Generally, there's a few different types of mics you can go for;
Interference tube (Shotgun) microphones: These tend to be used in filming because of their good side-rejection, although generally we should avoid using these indoors, especially in small/reflective spaces. As I don't think your space falls into that category it shouldn't be a particular problem for you, although I'd stick to short shogun mics. Pressure gradient microphones: These don't have an interference tube and rely on different methods to reject sound and focus the polar pattern. They tend to sound more natural than shotgun mics (especially with off-axis sounds).  
I'd like to recommend some Sennheiser supercardioid MKH 8050's for this, but I suspect at around $1000 a mic, you don't care about sound that much.
Instead, try a more budget-friendly (but poorer-quality) pair of the Rode NTG-1 or NT5: The NTG-1's will provide more focused sound, while the NT5's will sound more natural (especially if the talker moves off-axis). I'd put my money on trying the NT5's first, and if your voices sound too ambient/reverberant, go with the NTG-1 or a supercaridioid mic like the MKH 8050.
 
 
Microphone Positioning:
You'll need some half decent mic stands or C-stands for this, even though these mics are a lot lighter than the AGK414 + shock mount.
I don't suspect anything special has to be done here: Place the mics just above the heads, pointing towards their mouths. Don't place the mic so close that you can hear the levels change too much when they turn their head. You may want to pace the mics a little more centrally, pointing outwards, as you'll be talking to each other often.
If the mics are getting too close together, and especially if you're using a mic with a looser polar pattern, you may want to look into using a coincident XY positioning technique to avoid phasing effects caused by combining signals from mics in close proximity.
 
 
 
 
Maybe this will be enough information for LTT to get sound right. We can hope.