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BecauseRussia

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System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-7600K
  • Motherboard
    MSi Z170A Gaming M5
  • RAM
    16GB (2 x 8GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000MHz
  • GPU
    MSi Radeon RX 480 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C
  • Storage
    250GB Kingston SSD and 1TB WD Blue
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650x 650 Watt 80 Plus Gold
  • Display(s)
    Acer KG240 A and Asus VC239
  • Cooling
    Cryorig H7
  • Keyboard
    E-Element RGB Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Mionix Avior
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 579 Headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

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  1. Not silly, always good to start with the basic/simple stuff. Currently I can only use the earbuds at the lowest volume setting before turning the sound completely off. I did read that you can go into settings and enable a Safe Hearing mode which lets you control the maximum volume out of the device. Unfortunately, enabling that feature made no perceptible difference.
  2. Maybe dumb question, but did you check for any drivers from TP-Link for the WiFi USB?
  3. I have a pair of Sennheiser IE300. I have tried using them on my iPad Pro with M1 with both the official Apple USB C to 3.5mm adapter and the same type of adapter from UGreen. With both adapters on the lowest volume setting the IE300 are just too loud, they are painful to listen to for any extended period of time. Notably this issue does not exist on my iPhone 13 Pro Max using the lighting to 3.5mm adapter. So, I don't believe it is an issue with the earbuds themselves. I have used them a handful of times on Windows and while I did have to turn the volume way down, I was able to get it to a comfortable level. Does anyone know of a way to lower the output volume from the iPad, or have a product that could lower that volume? Thus far my google foo has not returned any results.
  4. Have you tried power cycling the modem and router? Have you checked at different times to see if there are any times when it is better or worse?
  5. Just adding if your cat 5e cable is under I think like 10 to 25 meters and is rated for 350mhz then it can still likely do 10G, so 2.5G should be possible. Assuming of course the components at either end can that rated speed.
  6. Open up an admin command prompt or powershell and run the following commands: sfc /scannow dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth These two commands *should find and repair any corrupt Windows files. *Note Windows is weird and they may not actually find the specific issue that is causing the problem. So, a full Windows reinstall may be necessary. You can also try doing a clean installation of your display drivers. A BIOS Update may not hurt either.
  7. Yeah, it shouldn't be stuck on the Windows screen for over an hour. BIOS update could be the problem, but if that doesn't fix it and a Windows 11 installer doesn't work either you could try a Linux distro to see if that can install on the drive. It doesn't really matter which one, the goal is just to narrow down if there is an issue with the drive. ( I like Pop_OS!, but Ubuntu would also be a safe choice) If these installers have issues actually writing to the SSD, then you know that the SSD is faulty and need to do an RMA. If when you go to install the OS it gives an error like "dev/boot partition could not be created" Then there is something wrong with your drive. I had this happen with a server I was setting up and it ended up being a bad SSD drive.
  8. Sounds like a physical GPU issue, but could be software. I would start with a clean installation of NVIDIA drivers and see if the issue persists. You could also try a reseatting the GPU. While you are reseating it, look and see if you see anything obviously wrong with it.
  9. Assuming it is not a thermal issue, which doesn't seem likely. I would go with a fresh install of Windows. Copying Windows from one drive to another can cause issues and some not because Windows....
  10. To clarify, you are trying to install Windows onto the Samsung Evo, not trying to boot into Windows after installing Windows on the SSD? Windows 10 or Windows 11? I would try the other version to see if you get the same results. When you go into the BIOS there should be a way to force boot to the USB. You don't want to change your boot order, you simply want to boot to the USB. This can be accomplished through either somewhere in the BIOS ( Everyone is different) but you are looking for something along the lines of "Boot Override" Or you should be able to hit F12 when you first power on the PC to brig up the boot menu and the choose the USB. Like you said you should see the Windows logo and then the screen should go all purple and then you will go through the steps of installing Windows on your SSD. This process can take some time, so give it a minute or two to go from the Windows logo to the purple screen. Usually the spinning circle does not show up during this process.
  11. You will need to research the specs of the ports on your laptop to see what HDMI and USB-C standards they support. Running things at higher refresh rates for a laptop will mostly depend on whether or not your laptop's ports support those functions. As to whether or not your GPU can play games at those frame rates is another matter, which I am not qualified to speak on.
  12. My first impression is to say that it is over kill, but you haven't given me enough information. 1. Are you making this server for you and your friends? Or are you planning on hosting this server for a whole bunch of people? 2. Are you doing to be running Java or Bedrock? Modded or vanilla? All those things change the requirements.
  13. It will likely depend on regulations. ATX12VO is much more power efficient at idle than current ATX. So, if countries start pushing for more power efficient PC's (which some already are) it will force OEMs to start to make it the norm in their computers. This will likely trickle down to the consumer level to help maintain compatibly, probably with some awful years of transition.
  14. You can try to run "sfc /scannow" and "dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth" in an Admin command prompt to try and fix your windows install. Otherwise you will need to reinstall Windows. *Note the dism online command will only work if you are online, so depending on how broken Windows is that one may not work.
  15. Your cable tester only does verification. It does not do qualification or certification. What this means is that all it is testing is to make sure the wires reach from one end of the cable to the other, it won't even tell if you do them wrong, you have to notice that. It is NOT testing the speed of the cable, the level of interference on the cable or the pairs are wired correctly for the given standard. The situation you find yourself in is that the cable is just good enough to pass a verification test but would probably fail either a qualification or certification test. So likely one of the wires probably #2 is damaged at some point inside the cable. So, this is just a long way of get another 10ft cable. It is likely that your laptop can either better negotiate with the broken cable or is using a different set of pairs to avoid the broken pair while the router cannot do that same thing.
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