DatSniper

just looking at your name get a mac jk i don't actually know what you should get, i'm just passing by

I'm looking for a budget secondary monitor for all kinds of tasks, primarily for just browsing or something but in the future i'm probably going to do coding with it. A few minimum specs: Panel: VA or maybe IPS Response time: doesn't matter Refresh rate: 60Hz Resolution 1080p or 1200p Size: around 24", i can flex from that Adjustability: pivot rotation i'm looking for a price of a maximum of 150€, although i'm going to buy it from black friday. I live in finland where everything is just a lot more expensive

The build is still a WIP, so before I changes the mobo and CPU to these ones, i had selected the G.Skill Ripjaws V 16Gb (2x8) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 Is this still viable on the current configuration?

I'm looking for memory for a Ryzen 7 2700X and an ASRock Fatal1ty X470 Gaming K4 On AMD:s product page it just says "System Memory Specification: 2933MHz" and ASRock:s product page it says "Supports DDR4 3466+ (OC)" Also on the motherboards QVL is a load of different memory configurations, all of which I presume are tested and supported I also read that the CPU only supports / is better with SDRAM, correct me on this one and how is this different from normal DDR4 memory?

I am looking for a Noctua CPU cooler for the performance of it (currently on my list is the NH-U12S), but I want to use a chromax fan because i don't like the normal fan color. My question is that does Noctua sell just their heatsinks without the fans, OR heatsinks with preinstalled chromax fans?

http://www.robvanderwoude.com/wait.php this is your best shot at it, i had this problem once but i don't actually remember solving it

I wouldn't consider the ram as overkill compared to the CPU, you might even want to add more ram in the future depending on your budget the CPU is a good futureproof as you don't have to immediately upgrade it again when you start doing something more demanding

PSU: FSP Group FSP750-50ERN 750W 80+ Silver It's already over a year old, and i don't even know if it has warranty left, also i don't remember where i even bought it I haven't seen any markings on the mobo

all but the audio, the connector was too short when I upgraded my PC

Attention readers: This has not been a problem after the incident, I just wish to find out what happened. A long while back, like 6 months ago, i heard a zap from my PC and almost immediately smoke started coming out of the front panel. I quickly unplugged my PC from the wall and disassembled it. Nothing was wrong with it, no visual problems and nothing was hotter than usual. I took the 24 pin mobo power connector off and tested any problems with the PSU with a paper clip. (one of those PSU tests you find online) There was nothing wrong with that either. I decided to put the PC back together and try to boot it, and it worked flawlessly. Nothing had gone missing nor i was having any performance issues. As I said nothing like this hasn't happened ever after that one case, and I still haven't figured out what it was. From general interest on what happened, now I'm asking your help on this. Specs: Mobo: Acer Aspire XC-705 prebuilt mobo CPU: Intel i5-4460 Graphics card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1050 Ti D5 4GB Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury black 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR3-1600MHz PSU: FSP Group FSP750-50ERN 750W 80+ Silver Storage: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM Cooling: Intel stock CPU cooler NZXT FZ-200 200mm fan slapped on the side panel Small 40mm fan on the front panel NZXT GRID Fan controller

My Steelseries rival 300 has recently started having the double click problem (double clicking when i click it once and sometimes stops when i hold it down). I don't really have enough money to buy a new one (and I am so attached to the steelseries rival 300 that i don't want any other mouses) so I wish to try and repair it. I will probably first try to open the switch itself and turn the contact plate to a better position. This is only a temporary solution and I want to buy new switches for it. So first of all can I see the switch type from just looking at it, and if I can't, does anyone know what switches does it use? I looked around and saw a video of someone changing the switch and he used the Omron D2FC-F-7N(10M or 20M) This will probably work on it, but I just want to know if the switches 'feel' the same as the original steelseries switches? Switch changing video. Switch repairing video. The switches on ebay.

well i've done it for about 10 years already and after all it's nothing more than just a small nudge here and there

Yes i do indeed keep my keyboard like this and yes i do turn it whenever i'm typing

So i recently found out that i've been using WASD differently from my friends, and I want to see how many other people use it/ opinions on it. I have my pinky on shift and control, ring finger on tab, middle finger on a and q, index finger on w, e and s and thumb on d, z, x, c, v, b, r, f, g and space. [EDIT] yeah i forgot D

Me every time i see someone dab