honor

I've responded to more than a couple questions on here about lubing keyboards and since I have my last endeavor documented I though I'd write up a picture guide on how to do it.  I'm not doing it here but you can take this opportunity to do a spring swap if you want. Or even change the stem. You could go from a brown, to a red, to a blue switch, just by swapping the stem and spring. My switches here are Zealios, a special type of tactile Gateron switch similar to an MX Clear.
 
I don't claim this is the definitive method, but it's how I do it and that's worked out pretty well so far. 
 
First the tools and links to buy them: Switch opener, Lube, Brush. It also helps to have a tray to keep loose odds and ends in, like all your removed keycaps.
(Note, If you are working with loose switches, either you have a hotswap PCB or you're lubing before you solder, then get a switch opener like this : KBD Fans switch opener or Gateron Switch Opener and skip all the switch opening steps, those are for already soldered switches) 
 

 
Insert the switch openers into the two slots on either side of the switch. This works for Gateron and Cherry for sure, not for Kailh. Can't comment on other brands as I don't own any others.  Also this won't work if you have LEDs that go through the switch unless you desolder the LED first. If you have SMD LEDs (ones that reside under the switch) you should be good.

 
Pry with one tool in toward the switch (not downward but laterally across the keyboard) which will pop up one side.

 
Then flip that tool over and insert it under the switch top. We're not going to pry at all again on this side, it's just there to prevent this side from snapping back together and closing itself again. These guys snap closed really easily.

 
Next pry with the other tool, again across the board, not down or up. The second half will take about twice as much force to get open.

 
It may come off all together or just the top by it self. Just be careful when pulling stuff off that there is no tension on the spring as it can easily shoot itself across the room and disappear forever. 
Here we see just the top has been removed.

 
Switch top, spring and stem. I put the spring inside the switch top like this so it can't roll away and get lost.

 
Skip to this point for unsoldered switches or hotswap boards Instead open the switches with one of these: KBD Fans switch opener or Gateron Switch Opener 
 
Time to load up some lube on your brush. You just need a very small amount.  This here is probably a little much.

 
First I lube the center post in the switch bottom. This is what the spring rides on. So this step not only smooths out the feel of the switch, but also dramatically reduces pinging sounds from the spring. 

 
Also lube the two channels on either side. This is what the stem rides in. No need to reload your brush at this point.

 
Next lube the stem. Get all four sides and the under side of the stem where it contacts the spring. Just in the circular channel, you don't need to lube that post. I do reload the brush with some more lube for this step, but only like 25% of what I put on initially. 

 
Now it's time to reassemble. Put the spring in first. It should feel different sliding in that it did coming off. It should feel softer and more velvety now.

 
Put the stem on top of the spring. Make sure the little arms on the stem face the electrical contacts. Those arms are responsible for separating the contacts and are what make the switch work at all. If it's backwards the switch won't operate. 

 
Next put the top back on the stem. The more steeply shaped side of the top should also face the electrical contacts. Press it down gently and it should easiy snap and clip shut. If it's not going on easily don't apply force, something is not aligned up and you might bend the metal contacts. Take it off and double check it's all aligned. 

 
Once it clips in to place you're done. Move on to the next one. If you get into a real rhythm you should be able to do 1 switch every 45 seconds. Also I use a single key cap to mark my progress so I don't lose my place. 
 
 
 
 
 
Addendum: Kail BOX Switches: 
BOX switches are already pretty smooth and don't benefit as much from lubing. Even so, the internals are different so here are the lube points if you do want to do it. I don't think you can open these if they are in a plate so you will need the KBDFans style opening tool that offers a Kailh opening side. KBD Fans switch opener 
 
 

VID_20200311_171149.mp4 VID_20200311_171149.mp4

Thanks for all the advice @brob, turns out the board is dead. Got it replaced and the new one works like a charm.

well what's your budget? remember you can get used parts if you're broke, no need to get everything new.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($156.48 @ OutletPC) ryzen 1200 will work too, but you lose hyperthreading.
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($73.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory  ($69.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Toshiba - P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($42.33 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card  ($274.98 @ Newegg) used gtx 970 works if you want used.

Case: Deepcool - D-Shield ATX Mid Tower Case  ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic - S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Total: $687.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-17 01:34 EDT-0400

cut the ram down to 8gb and put a gtx 1060 6gb much better then 1050

Ryzen. Get the 1700 though, to save some cash. 

The 1700 overclocks just as high, but it cheaper. The main advantages of the X series; XFR and higher clocks, are negated when you manually OC. 

Personally if I was spending that much money on a PC I would go to a professional, not a forum.

yes, you can return it and get ryzen 1600, i5s are dead, not really worth getting. 

Thanks, I sure will have fun  
 
My biggest problem with building a computer is that I can't build them often enough  

Get Windows 10 for cheap (about 30 bucks)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($197.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($83.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($131.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card  ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus - VS239H-P 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor  ($103.57 @ Amazon)
Total: $972.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-24 11:41 EDT-0400

I think you can get windows for 20-30$ on kinguin or other scources
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($197.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($83.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($141.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card  ($169.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $889.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 14:23 EDT-0400

I think you can get windows for 20-30$ on kinguin or other scources
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($197.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($83.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($141.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($104.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($47.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card  ($169.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $889.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 14:23 EDT-0400

Get windows for cheap on kinguin or other scources for 20-30€
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1800X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor  (€457.93 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (€159.90 @ Caseking)
Motherboard: Asus - CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX AM4 Motherboard  (€257.84 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (€337.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (€319.43 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (€60.75 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS Xtreme Edition 11G Video Card  (€837.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  (€89.90 @ Caseking)
Power Supply: Corsair - HX Platinum 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (€157.18 @ Mindfactory)
Monitor: Asus - PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor  (€802.99 @ Mindfactory)
Total: €3481.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 21:13 CEST+0200
 
EDIT: Thermal Paste is preapplied (on the NZXT x62) and is good enough, so no worries there

Instead of a cpu with a dated architecture, get Ryzen.

That build is great, BUT if you have the cash, rather go for the 1700. Build a good foundation and go for quality over quantity. I made a built based loosely around @honor's build, with changes that swap all components for those with a higher quality and more aesthetic and thus longterm appeal. Since you have upgraded your gpu once, getting the best gpu is nonsense anyway, especially in times were the gpu prices have rocketed skyhigh thanks to cryptocurrency miners... Save the money until prices drop. Nvidia will be releasing a new gpu this year anyway and Vega is also coming, which will make all of the current ones way cheaper. This is why i put in the cheapest graphics card available. Then, when the new generation of gpus will be released later this year, use te money you saved on this build and get one that is way better.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor  ($349.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: Asus - CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($334.99 @ PC Canada)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($194.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB Mini Video Card  ($144.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($99.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($99.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1224.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-20 18:48 EDT-0400

Feast your eyes on this:
 
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Elite (Gray) ATX Full Tower Case  ($929.98 @ Newegg)
 
 

@Cyberspirit @honor
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9x38gL

This would be the parts list for is w/o water-cooling. Dual system mounting is nice but I already have my last gaming system as a server \ NAS \ media station. Feel like there is a lot of wasted space in that case. 

For a good shop look here : https://www.alternate.at/ 
 
They sometimes have nice outlet things for good prices... 
For Example one of the Mainboards from the signature... Price new around 300 € that time, got it for 80, there were only 2 sata cables missing.

Learn more about Project Orthrus: http://geni.us/QKiQ8wz
 
Follow LukeD on Twitter: https://twitter.com/LukeD_NC
 
Buy GTX 1080 Ti on Amazon: http://geni.us/szrn
 
This is, by far, the coolest case that we've laid our hands on so far, and for now it's one of a kind... Project Orthrus!!
 
 

Look into the Dell R620 or the T620 or T610 on ebay. You can get some really good deals on used server hardware that's powerful and quiet. I've got two R620s (I know they are rack mounted and you're looking more for towers) and I can't even hear them. I got them sitting in a closet in my room and don't hear anything at night. If the towers are anything like their rackmount counterparts they'll be pretty quiet too  

Either this or a 1700 if you want it to last an extra year or two

I'd argue that a 1700X paired with some nice RAM as you mentioned earlier is a better option for everybody. It offers nearly the same performance with more cores. 

Maybe try Ryzen instead? You could save a few and spend more on something else. 

Getting it $500 or under is very hard, if you don't mind going over your budget slightly then this PC will be good... 
 
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/fPBJ2R