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ndfr623

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Everything posted by ndfr623

  1. Alright, I've put the i7 950 and it's done... Pretty much nothing. The board still refuses to boot with BCLK higher than 160. There's a small improvement, in that now I have a max multiplier of 24, but if I decided to stick with this I'd also be losing 2 cores (and the 4 threads that go with them). I'm going to run Cinebench to see if it's stable, at least for a moment. Alright, the multiplier seems to be unwavering. I'm going to play a few games and such and see how it goes, but it's still a bummer that the board (or RAM) is misbehaving like this.
  2. I was running 200x20 at around 1.22v or so. I've never been able to get x22 really working stably on this board and CPU ever. I think I tried raising the multiplier to 22 and tried to bump the CPU core voltage along with it. I think I also tried a 210 BCLK, but I don't remember if it was unstable or if it just refused to boot. My PSU is an Antec CP-850, so the whole system is inside an Antec P183. It's never failed me in the least. The whole thing was working fine when I got it from a family friend who was moving. Due to the age of the parts and all that ( I got it with a GTX 285 inside), the system must be 9 or 10 years old. I got myself the CPU on AliExpress for about 20€, put it in and freaked out for a few months until I figured out that all I needed to do was update the BIOS. I put in the old owner's i7 950 (which I still have, I might give that a try), updated the BIOS and it ran perfectly. Over the course of a couple of weeks I bumped up the overclocks (mainly BCLK) from 160, to 180, to 190, until finally settling on 200x20. A voltage of around 1.21 or 1.22 served me fine for months. Yeah, I ran that OC for months with no issues. RAM speed was around what it normally runs at (everything on default leaves the RAM speed at 1333), so that wasn't the problem. I usually have the UCLK around 3, 3.2 GHz, but I'll try raising it to around 3.6. Still, it's rather strange that all this would occur right after a higher failed OC. I might actually have (partly) fried the CPU. I will try the old i7 950, but still...
  3. Okay everybody, it's been a few days (a week) and I've tried all your suggestions. I tried going back to defaults and back up from there several times, I've opened it up and reseated everything, even pulled out the battery. But no dice. At this point there's not much I can do except live with the CPU at 3.2 GHz (which is a bummer because 4 GHz was working fine), contact ASUS support or start saving up for a new platform (which is gonna be hella expensive for the same level of performance) instead of a graphics card upgrade (I'm currently on a 750 1GB). Thanks, y'all. I'll let you know how it goes.
  4. Alright, so about a month ago I had my system (ASUS P6T WS Pro on latest BIOS, Xeon X5650, 12GB Kingston DDR3) running stable at 4GHz (200x20). I watched an X58 overclocking guide and decided "why not. let's go higher". So I tried to OC higher, I'm not sure if I tried to do multiplier x22 or up the BCLK a bit more. The point is, that did not work, no matter the voltages, timings or anything. I never went above anything unsafe (never above 1.3v, I believe it was). So I decided "whatever, the old OC is fine". Except that I typed in the BCLK, multiplier and voltages and... no POST. "okay, maybe it's too high". 180 BCLK and nothing. So now I have to stick to a 160 BCLK and an x20 multiplier because I can't lock in the x22 stably. The highest I can go on the BCLK now is 164, and going that high introduces issues with my USB audio interface. Anything higher will not post and turn on the DIAG_RAM light. I don't know what to do! My old clocks don't work anymore. I tried reseating the RAM and only 8GB were detected (so I was missing a channel, it's 6x2GB). I reseated it again and at least I got my third channel back, but no dice on higher clocks. Does anybody know what might be happening? Did I f*ck the memory controller or the memory itself? Shall I pull out the PC again and try reseating everything once more? Thanks.
  5. ndfr623

    Hey how do I change from Intel graphics 4000 to…

    If it's a desktop, make sure that (if available) the iGPU is disabled in BIOS. Also make sure that the display cable is plugged into the card and not your motherboard. Lastly, you can try disabling your HD 4000 in Device Manager and install all your updates.
  6. Alright... I guess I'll just put it on display or throw it away. It seems like whenever I come to this forum (or any forum for that matter, be it LTT or XDA) I am never lucky and I never get a solution that works. Welp, life sucks like that. Thank you for your time. Side note: My case fan is noisy and needs replacing. It's fraying my nerves, honestly.
  7. It might have gotten jostled a tad on public transport, but it was in a bag made of friggin' bubble wrap. Highly doubt it. Yeah, but I don't think that it would also say "Memory Size = 0" as well Maybe the stock and boost clocks would appear as well. It does indeed seem like the card is just plain broken. Nah, I traded a bunch of my old parts for the card. I'll assume that the other guy's brother (that's where he said it came from) just bought it. As for my own PC (what you most likely meant), the previous owner bought it (I assume) from Mountain PC, judging by the sticker on the front. However, as stated in my profile and in the original post, all my parts are off the shelf, the motherboard in particular being an ASUS P6T WS Pro. It was hassle-free with the previous owner's GTX 285 (which I still have, and still works just fine) and my current GTX 750. I've kinda neglected to mention the model of the GPU, but I put a link to the listing as well as a link to the other BIOS I flashed. If you don't feel like clicking the link, the model in particular is the N760 TF 2GD5/OC from MSI, (AKA an MSI GTX 760 Gaming).
  8. Alright. So I was selling my old computer stuff on a Spanish app called Wallapop (https://es.wallapop.com/item/bundle-cpu-disipador-ram-y-placa-base-250911277 to be exact) and a guy contacted me about trading that for a 760 (https://es.wallapop.com/item/nvidia-gtx-760-msi-2gb-gddr5-oc-255461635 to be exact). I agreed because I wanted the old stuff out of my hands and I figured I could just get a lot more juice out the 760 by overclocking it later. We meet up in person, we swap items, everything's fine. I get home, swap my 750 for this 760 aaaaand... Error 43. (This was on Windows 10 build 1803 to be exact) The card refused to work with any drivers. It was sort-of-fine in Safe Mode but it refused to budge from "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems". I noticed the card was also starting to display artifacts. In the OS, these artifacts were a bunch of blue spots (not individual pixels or something like that) arranged vertically around the sides of the screen. The artifacts can also be seen during boot, with the normal POST messages in white having small bits in purple. As you can see, when you enter the BIOS Setup ( I have an ASUS P6T WS Pro motherboard on the latest bios, BTW, full specs in profile) there are more artifacts in the form of purple lines. I was still holding hope (for some reason) that the problems would go away when using a different OS. I was getting a little tired of Win10 anyway, so I formatted and installed Windows 8.1. During the setup, there were no artifacts and the card behaved perfectly. Upon reboot, there were still artifacts in the POST messages, but the OS seemed to load fine. Everything went fine. I went to download and install NVIDIA drivers. I think (think! I already want to forget this card exists.) the installer failed. I checked Device Manager. In true Windows Update fashion, the driver had installed itself. The status rectangle read "Your device is functioning normally. Please reboot to complete the driver installation." I was like "okay, this is a step forward...". So I rebooted. Same artifacts on boot. The Windows loading animation appeared and the screen went black for a sec. It seemed like it was going to work, but the screen remained black and after 5 seconds or so of blackness the computer rebooted on its own. After a few bootlops, naturally, the Startup Repair came up. Since, for some asinine reason, you can no longer cold boot into Safe Mode, I had to wait for the repair options to come up. So I rebooted into safe mode and the OS loaded. Device Manager, obviously, stated that the Status of a device is not available in Safe Mode. I opened GPU-Z and noticed that some of the fields were blank. These are the fields and boxes I think were blank, with the mockup to the right being done in Paint (sue me). I could pop the card in my system again and take an actual screenshot, but I am in no hurry. This tells me that, on Windows 10, whatever is wrong with this 760 makes it so that the driver doesn't load and it won't detect both of my monitors. On Windows 8.1, the card makes it so that you can't even get into the OS when the driver is installed. I've tried everything I can think of. I reseated the card twice, DDU'd and installed the driver a couple times, I even backed up the BIOS and flashed one off of TechPowerUp (https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/158738/158738 to be exact). That didn't work and it created more artifacting, so I reverted to the original. As far as I know, the situation is hopeless. Internet wisdom would dictate that the card was either dying when I exchanged it for my bundle of parts, or that somehow it got f'd up on the way back home and in the time I got it out of my backpack and into my PC. Since it is at least capable of outputting video somewhat correctly when not using a real display driver, it's not completely dead. Seeing as I probably won't be able to get my stuff back to at least sell it, the situation is kind of desperate. Shall I try the bullshit of sticking it in the oven and see if that fixes it temporarily, or shall I just forget about this thing and throw it out?
  9. No, no they're not. I have a GTX 750 and I can tell you that, by seeing it in action, Pascal kicks ass. You should go with the 1050 or 460 because the architecture improvements (at least on Pascal) are worth it over the 750 (which, mind you, is still a pretty great entry-level gaming card). I would not recommend going with the extra 2 GB of RAM as, in my experience, they won't give you that much of a performance jump (if at all) in most games (over 6 GB). It'll only really matter for RAM-hungry games. Also remember to get a card with at LEAST 2 GB of VRAM. I'm running the 1GB version of the 750 and I am constantly fearing if DOOM (or even CS:GO) are going to need more VRAM than the 1024 MB that I have, as the usage has gone up even to 1014 MB on games like GTA V, even for lower resolutions like 1366x768. You can always get more RAM down the road, but you can't get the graphics card to have more memory without getting an entirely new one (and it is unclear to me wether Windows is actually using ANY RAM to compensate for the lack of VRAM with "Shared Graphics Memory".
  10. Wow, everybody else is way better at parting out than I am. . Even better when you consider OP said he already had a 600W PSU. Whatever you go with, happy gaming, OP.
  11. While going for Coffee Lake will give you an upgrade path, you're already getting that motherboard for a killer deal. You can overclock the hell out of the CPU and, if you need something more powerful in the future, you can always upgrade to something better WITHIN Skylake. Not to mention it will be way cheaper than Kabylake or Coffee Lake. Another suggestion I have is to get a bigger SSD. With the rig you originally posted, you should have enough headroom to get a 240 or even 480 GB SSD. You're going to love having your heavy games (such as DOOM or GTA V) load fast. Don't get me wrong, the reasons listed above are all great to buy Coffee Lake, and more cores (with per-core performance) will smooth things out further, to a degree. But (at least from what's on my screen) the price of entry into Skylake is way lower than on Kabylake or Coffee Lake and, again, you can always get a new (or used) 6700K or 6800K later down the road. Still your choice though.
  12. Thanks everyone. Even the low-requirement Red Eclipse just gave me a graphics glitch right now. Will install 8.1, WannaCry patch and drivers and report back. See y'all soon.
  13. Windows 10 has also given me problems ("Application has been denied access to the Graphics Hardware" anyone?) so I'm just going to go for the feel it gives. It's still a pretty nice OS and I like it. It just feels like the sweet spot between "too old" and "too restrictive".
  14. That's the thing. Even if I disable the iGPU in Device Manager, Windows Update will still install the drivers for "ATI Radeon 3000". Should I just run the installation, spam the hell out of Windows Update to protect myself from WannaCry and then do my own driver installation?
  15. Crazy Train by Ozzy Osborne. Wait, it just finished. Now it's All The Same by Umziky.
  16. @tlink It doesn't give me an option to do so. I am on the latest BIOS but neither the one it shipped with nor this one have an option to disable it. It only allows me to choose wether the primary graphics adapter is on PCI or PCI Express, but nothing more (which I find stupid because it does allow you to disable onboard audio and network)
  17. Hi everybody. I just wanted to ask a simple question because my Windows 7 install has been going downhill lately. I want to give Windows 8.1 another try (and only if that goes awry will I give WIn10 another go) and I was just wondering wether to install my iGPU drivers or not. My GPU is an XFX Radeon HD 5450 1GB and the iGPU is a Radeon 3000 integrated on the ASRock 960 GC-GC GS motherboard. I have had fresh windows installs crap out on me because of video drivers. Essentially, if I'm not going to use the iGPU for anything, need I install the drivers for it as well as the ones for the 5450 or should I just install the 5450 drivers, disable it in Device Manager and forget about it? This may seem like a noobie question but it is troubling me. Thanks.
  18. I also forgot to mention that the card never goes over 75 Cº under full load, but it is a passively cooled, low-powered (under 25W consumption under load) card so I don't know its thermal tolerance.
  19. Actually, it can pull off 30-ish FPS with everything on the lowest settings at my monitor's native resolution (which is barely HD but whatever). It is capable.
  20. I guess you're right about that, after all, it was never meant for gaming and i chose it only for the ability to run more than one monitor. Still, this did not happen before I switched to the FX-6300 (and I refuse to go back to the 64 X2 5000+). 99% all of the time. Invariably.
  21. Hi. As you probably guessed from the title, my games will often times freeze up for a sec or two, then continue as if nothing had happened, except then they aren't outputting video. It happens like this: 1. Playing game, doesn't matter if it's pause menu, mid-gameplay, or title screen. 2. Game will freeze up, showing either a black screen or get stuck on a frame. Sometimes the game will get stuck in a loop that can also be heard (tiny loops of music being heard over and over) 3. At this point the game will either refuse to work completely or continue like always, except now the game's stuck on a black screen or a single frame. As I'm sure you will understand, this is incredibly annoying and a waste of time. This ONLY happens on games that max out my GPU (GPU usage stuck at 99%), which isn't really hard to do. My PC consists of the following components. I really don't have money to upgrade it and I'm only able to get a single component at a time once in every blue moon. Cpu: FX 6300 @ 3.8 GHz on Air cooling (Alpine 64 Plus) MOBO: ASRock 960 GC-GS FX on latest BIOS (P1.70 or something like that) RAM: 4GB of DDR3 @ 1600 MHz (HyperX Fury, single module) GPU: XFX Radeon HD 5450 1GB DDR3 (manually OC'd to 800 on the core, 600 on the memory) Storage: 240 GB SSD from KingDian as well as a 1 TB WD Green PSU: 250W OEM power supply, it's old and probably not very reliable No case fans Network and sound are the onboard ones. Monitor 1: Packard Bell Viseo 190W (1366x768) plugged straight into the VGA port Monitor 2: Don't know the brand, it's 1280x1024 plugged into DVI with DVI to VGA adapter OS: Windows 7 64-bit SP1 (switched back after Win10 CU gave me crap about programs "being denied access to the Graphics Hardware") I KNOW that the GPU is a MASSIVE bottleneck and as such it will be the next component I upgrade, whenever I get the money. My main problem is with the drivers. I have the Catalyst 15.7 WHQL drivers installed, straight from AMD's website. I've also tried 15.7.1 and the newest Crimson drivers. This issue occurs on all of them. So what I'm really asking of you here is this: Is there a way to clean install the video drivers without the iGPU (Radeon 3000, on the motherboard) getting in the way? If not, is there some way to eliminate the freezes when the GPU is maxed out? My thanks. PS: If you say "LOL my laptop could do better than that just get a better PC" you're not helping.
  22. Tried zooming in or changing the resolution? It can happen...
  23. The off-topic is a bit weird (everybody's going on about wether the FX's are worth it or not) but kinda acceptable... it IS a very old architechture. For all those saying it's not a true six-core, or eight-core CPU... Anyways. Mileage varies. Depends on what you're doing.
  24. The whole point of ASIO is that it offers much, MUCH higher performance and lower latency than Windows DirectSound. In my opinion, it's what matters if you want to have your voice on something... I tried it on a Skype call. It really wasn't that great, but mileage may vary, so I encourage you to try.
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