whoisit1118

I only heard of colorful (I live in Korea), so I would recommend buying that.

can you use a ziptie?

Try running chkdsk
 
https://neosmart.net/wiki/chkdsk/#From_the_installation_disc-3
 
Then boot up and try to get back into windows.
 
If you're able to get to the login screen/desktop, immediately restart your computer so it can successfully shutdown and restart. 
 
 

Wait for Ryzen 3000 early next year if you can to get a cheap effective 6 or 8 core CPU
 
Otherwise an R5 2600 is the best value CPU currently, or just get an 8700K and maybe get it delidded.

Id go for the latter if you can get another stick in time.

Linears
MX RED -  Red Stem - Light 45 linear
MX SILENT RED - Pink Stem - Light 45 linear with rubber padding inside the housing to dampen the down and upstroke
MX SPEED - Silver Stem - Kinda Stiff >45 - Slightly heavier mx red with less travel and a shorter actuation distance 
MX BLACK - Black Stem - Heavy 70 Linear Prob worst linear switch scratchy af compared to gateron and vintage mx black 
Cherry MY - Black/White stem with open housing - Heavy ~70 - Linear AVOID THIS AT ALL COSTS FEELS LIKE SHITTTT!!!!!


Tactile 
Mx Brown - Shit Coloured Stem - Light 45 - very light tactile and tactility is not very defined IMO, feels like shit
Mx Clear - Clear Coloured Stem - Medium 65 - More tactile than Mx brown, stiffer when bottoming out.  Tactile bump is near the start of the switch fells kinda like a rubber dome but is good for touch typing
Mx Tactile Grey - Lught Grey Coloured Stem - Heavy 80 - Most tactile cherry tactile switch - Best tactile cherry switch imo 

Clicky
Mx Blue - Blue coloured Stem - Medium-light 55 - Very Loud and clicky Most common clicky switch 
Mx Pale Blue - Pale Blue Stem - Heavy ~75 - Rarely found least tactile and loud cherry clicky switch
Mx Dark Blue - Dark Pale Blue Stem - Medium-light 55 - Rare, Smoother feeling to Mx Blue 
Mx White/Milky - White Stem - Heavy 75-80 - Predecessor to Mx Blue Quiter than Mx Blue due to the grease applied to damn the sound - IMO best cherry clicky switch
Mx Green - Dark Green Stem - heavy 80 - Heavier and more tactile than Mx Blue 

Clones:
Gateron - Probably imo, the best Cherry Mx Style "Clones" they feel similar to vintage cherry mx switches (Smoother and less grainy feeling than Modern Mx switches) 
Some of their best switches are:
Gateron Blacks - Smoother version of cherry mx black
Gateron Yellows  - Smoother version of cherry mx red
 Gateron/Zeal PC Zealios  - Smoother version of cherry mx brown with more defined and stronger tactility 

Kailh - one of the most common "clones" some of their switches have production quality issues but their new switches are pretty decent
Some of their better ones are:
Kailh x Novel Keys Box Jades - very clicky even more than mx blue and green
Kailh x Novel Keys Box Royals - more tactile than mx brown
Kailh x Novel Keys Box Navy - more tactile and clicky than Mx Green
 
Alternatives:
Topre - Very nice and smooth feeling capacitive domes, ONLY GOOD IF YOU HAVE A SPARE KIDNEY OR TOO MUCH MONEY
ALPS - Better than Cherry Mx in many ways how ever is no longer produced, and they feel terrible when dirty
Romer G - Kinda like a Mx Clear with the tactility of Mx Brown (Light tactile bump near the start) Also has relatively short travel 
Optical Switches - Flaretech makes some nice optical switches like the ones found the the Wooting keyboard they're contact less switches and feel very smooth, possibly the smoothest switch. 
 

I would get the 860 EVO from Samsung. They are fast, reliable, and affordable.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540489467&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+860+evo+500gb
It's only 87 dollars right now too.

Personally the Samsung Evo/Pro series like the 840/850 have been pretty good performers. Also Intels server SSDs. Though I'm pretty sure you won't get a 500GB of one of those for <=$100.
 
Edit: I am mistaken. Prices have dropped a lot. Go full ham, 500GB.

You will definitely find cheaper. Don't buy it, because you can get used 1060s at that price.

Not necessarily. Heat sinks are often just a marketing gimmick as those NVMe drives are designed to get hot and will not cause shortened lifespan just by using it as designed.

Unraid isn't too bad of an option if you are a new user.
 
That said, I don't think that is the right solution for you. I think what you are looking for is NOT a server, but rather just a gaming PC with Network shares that you can use from different devices on your network. 

SLI isn't supported well anymore and more importantly, 1060s CANNOT SLI.
 
I would say Titan Maxwell is a bit better card than 1070 since 1070=980ti, but I say go for 1070 since it runs quite a bit cooler.

Sure, the cpu has pretty much nothing to do with it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor  (£282.99 @ Aria PC) extra threads will help for your work.
CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING - FROSTFLOW+ 280 76.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (£39.99 @ Amazon UK) 
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (£135.44 @ More Computers) 
Storage: Crucial - MX500 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (£59.99 @ Aria PC) same performance but cheaper.
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (£46.95 @ Aria PC) double capacity for less.
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GT OCV1 Video Card  (£244.98 @ Ebuyer) 
Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 275R (White w/Tempered Glass) ATX Mid Tower Case  (£66.50 @ Aria PC) 
Power Supply: Corsair - TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  (£58.98 @ Ebuyer) 
Total: £935.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-16 13:25 BST+0100

For about 35 dollars, you can get the Cryorig H7. For about 40 dollars, you can get the Cryorig H5. Both are very capable coolers.

Definitely get the MSI OCV1. In fact, I have had both cards(although the EVGA one was with a 1060 3GB card), and the OCV1 is far superior. You should be able to overclock 150-200mhz yourself with additional headroom.

Could we see what card they are? The worse card can be overclocked to match the more expensive one, but it would probably louder with a worse cooler.

I wouldn't be surprised if the Kraken 280mm is not sufficient to handle the 1950x overclocked to 3.8ghz. 
You might want to check the thermal paste application since TR4 is a huge socket or change fan profile of your radiator to see if those solve your problems.

Do you have the motherboard already? You might as well buy the Ryzen 2700/2700x because E5-2680 v2 or E5-2690 you mentioned are dead platforms. It is much better for gaming, and it will perform just as well as the 2680 v2/2690 since it has a higher clockspeed. Between the two you mentioned, I would go with the 2680 v2 because it was built on a much newer processor node, has more cores, etc. There is no reason to go for the E5-2690 if it costs more.

Use of same sockets make them seem compatible, but they are not. It will only accept 8th gen CPUs. 

Overclocking on the 2700x has very little value if you have adequate cooling. You might gain some performance, but its minimal. Precission boost 2 handles the core clocks really well

Firstly, some English help  You do not need the apostrophe in want.
Secondly, the 8700 should be superior in this case. I have seen a reliable Korean site benchmark the difference between 2700x and 8700 in gaming/streaming applications, and the 8700 beat the 2700x by quite a bit. This likely means the gap between 8700 and the 1700 will be even bigger. 

Firstly, some English help  You do not need the apostrophe in want.
Secondly, the 8700 should be superior in this case. I have seen a reliable Korean site benchmark the difference between 2700x and 8700 in gaming/streaming applications, and the 8700 beat the 2700x by quite a bit. This likely means the gap between 8700 and the 1700 will be even bigger. 

I had the same problem, and it is in the BIOS. Many other people have experience the 2.2ghz frequency lock if you search on Google. Best fix is resetting the CMOS, and it should be back to stock frequencies. Update your BIOS after you reset it, and see if that fixes the problem. I recall that it was some problem in Voltage and for me, updating BIOS eventually fixed it.

Pretty sure there was an LTT episode about how Quadros are able to game.