Kpeckham

Thank you for our help my account is unlocked

Wrap in tin foil so the earwax doesn't get everywhere then place in the microwave for 12:00 if you hear popping that means it's working:) (_)(_)::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::D~~~~~

Will do, thanks for what you have told me I hope to get this sorted out soon so I can go back to buying games 

At this point, I would suggest emailing Valve with full details of what happened, including the fact that your chargeback cannot be cancelled, and let Valve sort it out.
 
Hopefully, they will unlock your account, and give you a "freebie" when it comes to the fact that you did a Chargeback.
 
Remember: Chargebacks are really only there for emergencies, and absolute last resort. Like if your credit card or debit card got stolen, kind of thing. Or if Valve refused to refund the extra money, after multiple times if you asking them.
 
It sucks, but this should be a valuable lesson on patience.
 
I agree about the vague instructions - but "making a noise" and doing a chargeback are two totally different things. Making a noise is like shooting your gun in the air to warn an intruder to leave. Doing a chargeback is dropping a nuke on his head.
 
Fraudulent charges are by definition malicious and intending on scamming you out of money. This charge was not fraudulent by any definition. This was simply a mistake by Valve, or by Valve's bank. Mistakes happen. It definitely wasn't the fault of whoever support agent he got. Overdraft charges suck, yes, but they are easily reversed by the bank once everything has been sorted.

Steam is an official retail store whereas G2a is a bunch of resellers. It's like using ebay/craigslist as a baseline compared to Amazon. (A lot of G2A sellers buy keys when they're on sale/in bulk and/or from countries where prices are lower)

Damn son a 2008 F150 in good condition (w/ 100K miles) for $2000? That's an awesome deal. My dad just recently sold his 2010 F150, and he got well over $10K for it, and it had at least (probably more) than 100K miles on it (He would drive it down from Ontario to Florida every year for at least 4 years in a row).
 
Here's my take on this: You seem to really want the truck. You don't seem to need your gaming PC (and can live without it for a while), since you said you have a decent laptop.
 
I'd say try and sell the PC for as much as you can get, add that to the $850 cash, and then save up whatever remaining difference, and get the truck.
 
Then take the next 6+ months and save up for a kickass gaming PC that you can slowly buy parts for over time, or just save up and get one all at once.

Good will try that if I ever run into that problem