the pokemon kid

Hi All, Got a bit of a strange issue which appears at random times. The computer will shut down suddenly with no blue screen. It has done this while completely idle, while I have been at lunch and once during a game of Apex. There is no faults or errors within event viewer before either. The system from there will not boot, the PSU makes its normal click sound when the power button is pressed, the fans spin once and the motherboard shows 00 before turning off, this is under a second of power and then off again. I cannot get it to boot after this unless I pull the power cable out the PSU and leave it for a few minutes. I have tried holding the reset CMOS button on the motherboard and powering on to see if that gets it to boot but it does nothing. I have also tried taking the power cable out and pressing the power button until the internal motherboard light goes off, but again this has done nothing. The system will boot and work completely fine again after it has had a little time to rest. I have stressed tested it twice since this has happened, once with Aida64 and once with a large workload on Fusion360. This is both with and without the overclock turned on. The system specs are as follows: CPU: AMD 3900x MB: Aorus X570 Master RAM: 64GB (2x32gb) DDR4 Viper GPU: RTX 3080 PSU: AX1200i Storage: Corsair NVME This is a brand new AX1200i. I got this as a replacement for my faulty AX1200i and this is brand spanking new. Things that I have done so far: - Gone into the Corsair iCue software and turned it from multi-rail to single rail - Moved the EPS 16 pin from slot 3 and 4 to 7 and 8 on the PSU. - Turned off the small 4ghz @ 1.2v overclock and ran at stock. - Run Memtest64 and Windows Memtest. - Ran two 24 hour stress tests using Aida64. - Ran a GPU only stress test. What else could it be? Is the new PSU I have gotten faulty? The system is currently up and running completely fine and has been for the last 14 hours.

Lubing the stems makes a big difference in feel, my Yellows and Ambers both feel much smoother and quieter after lubing them. If I even get some browns I am going to be sure to lube them up too!

The lube on alps is quite a long lasting lube however you could open them all up and give the sliders a lube as it will make no difference to the overall tactility or click. Might help the switch out with becoming smoother. However I have had some NOS yellows which were just scratchy straight away. It might just be bad consistency...

Restoring alps only really goes so far. Once dust has gotten in then it usually does unrepairable damage to the sliders and they just remain scratchy. Which Alps are these? Blues, Ambers or SMK? The mod looks ace though, very clean wiring!

One of our keyboard makers in the UK made this a while back... Its called the Hyper7 and he brought it to our last keyboard meetup. The thing is a monster! All the keys at the top I believe are 2u caps with two switches underneath. So in theory you could program each switch individually if you wanted even more macros!

Just as an update, I decided to get a really small CPU cooler from Silverstone. Its one that they market as a upgrade to the stock Intel cooler. However it is running whisper silent now. The only thing that is actually making noise in the whole machine is now the power supplies fan...

Hi All, I am putting together a PFSense router together. I have got a Intel 4130t which I am using as the processor. This processor has a thermal disopation of just 35w! The whole system is going into a 1u server case which will eventually be rack mounted along with my NAS. This rack will be on the other side of the room in my office. I bought one of these 1u turbine style fans to go into the system and it is kicking out a lot of noise! So I would like to find out if I could buy a Noctua L-9i cooler, take the fan off and run it entirely passive. When I mean entirely passive I mean; no fans in the system at all. I wouldn't be able to fit the fan on the Noctua as the case is just too short to support it. The system at no stage will be under any load as it will be running as a PFSense router on a small network.

The new block arrived earlier this morning and I got to work with swapping everything over. I needed to swap to the 2011v3 jet plate and insert for optimal cooling. I gave it a quick leak test however the block was in way better condition than my old one. I then applied the liquid metal to both the CPU and CPU block and strapped it down. Put the tubing back together made sure everything was fastened down! Time to fill the loop again! However this time, everything went smoothly. After about 30 mins the system was full, leak testing and the bubbles were coming out thick and fast! After another 30 mins or so, the system was pretty much bubble free and I was fairly happy it wasnt going to spray liquid everywhere. So I gave it one more hour before connecting everything together. Booted her up and no blue smoke escaped! Success! So as soon as the system booted I went to doing the same test as before: Give the system 30 mins for temps to flatten out, open HWMonitor, CPU-Z and Aida64 just before doing test to get idle temps. Start Aida64 on just 'Stress CPU' for 15 minutes. Snipping tool results as system cools off. Here are my before results: Pretty warm I know. The 44C idle was the concerning part as my fan curve was really ramping up at that stage. The 68C max isnt bad but I was expecting better. However I was not ready for the improvement that was in store for me... THATS 17C OFF THE PACKAGES MAX! I was astonished to say the least! A 12C drop on the minimum and 10-17C drop across each core at maximum! The system is now running super quiet in comparison to previously! I am watching HWMonitor all the time and it has even dipped bellow 30C for the first time ever!

Hey All, So I have had the 5930k a while now and I have used Liquid metal thermal compound to get the best cooling possible along side my custom watercooling loop, however I have been suspecting that it wasnt making the best contact as the temps weren't inline with what others were getting. So I drained the loop and pulled the waterblock up to find this: Not ideal, I know... It was either the CPU or the waterblock which was causing the poor contact. I partially suspected it to be the CPU as Intel have soldered their IHS's to the processor which usually cause bulges and an uneven finish. However I wasn't up for sanding down a Golden sample of a 5930k. The first place to take the sand paper to was the EK CPU block. I found a nice large piece of flat glass and got to work with slowly sanding the blocks base down, putting equal pressure down throughout. I started at 200 grit and moved up through the grains, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, and finally 7000 grit. This took me an hour or so as the actual block itself was in pretty good condition. I didnt get pictures of this part as there wasnt a massive change in the look of the block. It went from Shiny with liquid metal stuck on it, to shiny with no liquid metal stuck to it... After this, I decided it was time to take the plunge and to lap the processor. So I masked off the important side of the processor with green painters tape and started to move through the grains. I know this first photo isnt great, but you can see the high spots which the processor has at 200 grit: This second photo is at about 600 grit and you can really start to see the base layer of the IHS shining through but also the high spots which are making primary contact with the heatsink. This RHS high spot matches well with the thermal compound spread pattern on the EK CPU block. Which makes me think that the EK CPU block is flat and that the CPU itself was off. So I continued going through the grits until we had a mirror finish and that there was no low spots left which I could see. At this point I was happy with the overall finish of the IHS. I applied the Thermal Grizzly conductonaut to both the CPU and waterblock then strapped them down to the motherboard. I put all the tubing back together and started refilling the system up. Everything was looking good until the CPU block started a micro leak, something I was really not expecting! I have drained the system now and found that the block as a small crack in it. No idea how it has happened but a new block as been ordered! Bam, an hour of sanding has gone to waste. However after contacting Overclockers and doing some research, I found out that EK Supremacy Evo waterblocks are flat... -.- What a waste of time. So stay tuned for tomorrow when the new waterblock gets here, I can fill the system and get some results!

I take it that you are taking the stems/ top housings out and then ultrasonic cleaning? If you are doing that, I suggest to getting some new Alps springs from SPRiT!

Looks pretty nice! Any shots of the whole board?

Love the styling of the Mira, really clean. My friend has one and the build quality is exceptional! The only thing that lets it down for me is the logo above the arrow cluster. Just cant stand that bit... Nice caps though too!

Got the chance to review the Varmilo MA105C with their new Contactless switches; the 'Sakura' pink EC switches. My review can be found here: https://caps-unlocked.com/blog/mathews-reviews-varmilo-ma105c/ I also posted my review in the members review section but it felt more fitting I also post it in here

I am using the same springs in both. SPRiT Gold 72g springs which have been lubed. The stems in both switches have also been lubed.

You would think that, however its actually the opposite. The stem on a cherry clear is very round in comparison to the Zealio stem. You get a much bigger bump but the switch feels way scratchier. I have Clears in Zealio housings on my Clueboard. Also the stems are slightly wobbly in these as Zealio housings are basically a gateron top with a custom bottom and Gaterons are known for beeing wobbly.

Because they are way smoother than cherry clears and have way more tactility than normal Zealios. Overall a much better switch than what both Cherry or Zeal makes stock.

My KBD75 is being delivered tomorrow! Hype! Got my Zealio stems in cherry housings ready! I cannot wait!

Cherry white switches are pretty rare! I will throw a spanner in your works... There is two types of Grey. Tactile greys and linear grey.

Actually the leaf on a Cherry brown is identical to the leaf on a cherry clear and all the other cherry switches. It is the size of the bump on the stem which makes the difference in tactility. I have got clears, Zealios, Browns and mod switches and you can see a huge difference in the size of the bump between them all. The clear bump is quite sharp and steep compared to the browns.

We are getting our meetup keycaps made by Max keys. They can make a full set of backlit keys for fairly cheap! Opening switches isnt that easy. It only works with boards which have got the cutouts on the plate. Whenever I have gotten plates made for my boards, I have made sure it has switch top opening so that I can do just that/ change the stem to something else if needed!

Not in bad condition! I had a model M from 92 for a while. Retrobrit'd it back to its original colour too! On a different note, I have just entered the CA66 Groupbuy! Thing looks awesome!

Cheers dude, Here is a parts list: Case: Tex TKL Aluminium case (Custom painted) PCB: lfkeyboards.com TKL PCB Plate: MX/Alps ISO Aluminium TKL Switches: 85cN Amber Alps and 150cN Alps locks (SPRiT Springs) Keycaps: DSA Alps Lightcycle in ISO UK

Here is my most recent board guys! Just finished and took it along to our UK Mechanical keyboard meetup! Amber Alps Build by Mathew Teague, on Flickr Amber Alps Build by Mathew Teague, on Flickr It took a long time to get all the parts together for this but I think it has come out really well! The Amber alps are just like clicky Topre, which is glorious!

100g is pretty useful. I type quite heavy handed and it means that I hit all sorts of keys. 100g stops me doing that, especially on caps lock! Here is a quite layout image: The Case is made by Skully and its called the Clueboard. I bought mine through Massdrop but you can also get it through the Clueboard website. The Artisan has been dubbed the Gauc cap. I bought it from Taobao and it was the best $5 I have ever spent! I put it on the escape key as I only have one and it would look out of place on the right side on its own. It would make me buy another Artisan. The Amber alps are much louder and way more tactile! The click leaf in a Amber is pretty solid which gives a great amount of tacility, however once it is pressed much like Topre, it just collapses.

Haven't been on here in a while however I see that Mechanical Keyboard chat is still going! Here is my latest keyboard. Clueboard with DSA Dolch. Cherry clear stems inside Zealio Housings with 72g, 80g and 100g springs. Clueboard by Mathew Teague, on Flickr Clueboard by Mathew Teague, on Flickr Clueboard by Mathew Teague, on Flickr Then this is now my next project. This will be my Alps end game! I cannot wait for get this finished! Some lovely, very clicky Amber Alps! Amber Alps by Mathew Teague, on Flickr Some 85cN SPRiT Gold springs. They match the weight of the Amber Alps, just a refresh of the old springs. New Springs by Mathew Teague, on Flickr The bottom housing, Click leaf, Slider and Top housing Building new switches! by Mathew Teague, on Flickr