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Hans Power

Member
  • Content Count

    600
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About Hans Power

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core I5 4690k
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5
  • RAM
    16GB DDR3 HyperX Savage 2133
  • GPU
    MSI RTX 2070 Armor
  • Case
    Xigmatek Aquila
  • Storage
    SSD: Crucial m500 120GB | HDDs: 2x Seagate Barracuda 4TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650i
  • Display(s)
    liyama XB2783HSU-B1DP, LG Flatron E2210
  • Cooling
    CPU Cooler: Bequiet Dark Rock 3 | Casefans: Bitfenix Spectre LED red 200mm (Intake), 2x Bequiet Pure Wings 2 140mm (Exhaust)
  • Keyboard
    Cherry MX-Board 3.0
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65
  • Sound
    ALC1150 with TI Burr Brown® OPA2134 OP-AMP
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

959 profile views
  1. Hans Power

    RTX 2060 PC restarts

    Might also be a driver issue. Try opening the device manager and under "system devices" (or whatever it's called on an english OS) and make an automatic search for new drivers for every device. I had some troubles where the system would just freeze and sometimes bluescreen after a few hours of idling (like when I let it sit overnight) and updating chipset and CPU drivers (for the DRAM Controller and PCIE controller to be specific) appearently fixed the issue. You could also try to disable the several c-States in the bios - those are additional power saving features which only take effect when the system is idling. Disabling the P-States might also be worth a try (means the CPU doesn't clock down anymore while idling). Edit: Also, try to set the Windows 10 energy mode, energy...saving..plan (?) (again not sure what it's called in english) to full performance.
  2. Hans Power

    Do all the 2080 gpus perform the same?

    I wouldn't bet on it cause it's not advertised on the official product page. From what I know some high end Gigabyte cards use dual ball bearings (but not the one meatfeastman mentioned) and most MSI cards although I wouldn't recommend the Ventus model cause it doesn't have a 0RPM mode and the cooling capabilities are propably a bit too limited. I'd recommend any of MSIs Triple fan designs, tho. Otherwise EVGA cards might be worth concidering - they all use Hydro Dynamic bearings, no matter which model. Personally I had an MSI GTX 960 4G which used Hydro Dynamic Bearings and it's still working like day 1 - no noise increase whatsoever and I still have a bunch of 120mm dual ball bearing casefans from the early 2000s I was using for years and I checked if they still work just a few weeks ago and they still run like day one. Sleeve Bearing fans are usually a bit more quiet out of the box (that's why cards with them get good reviews in terms of noise levels) but they can degrade pretty rapidly. Edit: I wouldn't recommend the high-end Gigabyte Aorus Cards either, tho - according to kidguru despite the ball bearing fans they get pretty hot and loud cause the fans have to spin very fast and they have a ton of sag cause they are too heavy. So, I'd stick to MSI or EVGA. And I'm really hesitant to say it, cause I don't want to look like a brand advocate but MSI seems to be the best choice overall right now when it comes to mid to high-end GPUs.
  3. Hans Power

    Do all the 2080 gpus perform the same?

    The cooler/fan design is actually very important for such an expensive card, imo - many cheaper GPU models use sleeve bearing fans and those are kinda crap and don't last that long - some only have a MTBF of 20.000hrs. And since GPU fans are much harder to come by and replace than case fans, it makes sense to pay a little extra to get a card with Hydro Dynamic or Ball Bearing fans. Especially the latter ones usually last an eternity. With sleeve bearing fans you can be unlucky and have rattling noises as soon as half a year after purchase and customer services often like to ignore fan noise and claim that the card works perfectly fine. I've been there personally. Ever since I base my purchase decision mainly on the bearing type of the fans.
  4. Hans Power

    Dead board or BIOS update needed.

    It's very important to know which board that is and a detailed describtion of what actually happens. For example Gigabyte uses an automatic Dual Bios and it restores the bios automatically when the main bios is corrupted, or it thinks it's corrupted or when the wind blows from the wrong direction, or the stars are in a certain constallation or at a full moon or whenever the heck it feels like it. And during the restauration process you usually don't get a monitor signal (only fans spinning) and you won't get any indication about what's happening. So the board might appear dead, but in reality you just have to give it like 30 minutes or so and it'll fix itself. Well, if that's your issue anyhow.
  5. Did you check your clockspeeds via GPU-Z or some other hardware monitoring tool? Seeing if the card boosts it's clocks correctly would be a good way to see if the card works properly or is stuck at a certain clock speed. Same method if you want to check your CPU.
  6. As a reference on my system (in my signature) I can play Monster Hunter World with everything maxed out at 1080p but I still get drops to ~55FPS in some situations and both CPU and GPU reach 100% load sometimes and this is with a +400Mhz Overclock on the CPU and a +200Mhz OC on the GPU. Completely maxed out settings can really grill your system in some games so going as fast as possible isn't as overkill as you might think. Initially I wanted to go for an RTX 2060 but I decided to go with an RTX 2070 instead in the end and I'm super happy that I did cause some games really need that edge for max settings at 1080p. Edit: To figure out if your system is performing as it should I'd download something like HWmonitor or HWInfo64 and then check CPU and GPU utilization. If one of those goes to 100% load when the framerate drops below 60 in Witcher 3 for example you know that your system is performing as it should and you'll also figure out if your CPU or your GPU acts as a bottleneck in certain situations during gameplay. Edit2: So, I just checked the Witcher and in 4K it drops to as low as 40FPS, so your performance seems about right.
  7. Those underclock and undervolt the CPU even further when the system sits on idle to save power. What I noticed was that when I left the system on over night and came back the next morning it was completely frozen - not even a bluescreen or an entry in the reliability report. I could leave the system on all day without it crashing, tho, while doing something with it - it had to be in idle state for over 2 hrs at least for that to happen. With those C-States disabled, tho, it didn't happen again. Here's an overclocking guide for Haswell, btw, which I found pretty useful. https://community.hwbot.org/topic/103948-sins-ultimate-gigabyte-z97x-overclocking-guide/ The guy recommends disabling those c-states I mentioned but doesn't explain, why. Well, I guess now I know.
  8. Just wanted to mention another thing I figured out while overclocking my i5 4690k - make sure to disable the C1E and C6/7 C-States (you can leave C3 on). With those on my system was stable under load but became unstable during long idle periods.
  9. Hans Power

    Are RTX 2070 cards still failing?

    My MSI RTX 2070 Armor has been rock solid since I bought it almost a month ago. Great overclocker, too. The issues only happened with Micron memory and those cards should be out of the system by now. Mine at least came with Samsung memory. Maybe you could get a bad one if you'd buy the crappiest, blower style RTX 2070 which sat on the shelf for months cause nobody else wanted it, or you have really bad luck and in that case you could go through warranty to get a good one. Just don't buy used.
  10. I edited my post. If he manages to post sometimes, he might have the chance to get into bios eventually.
  11. There might be an extra fast boot option for the RAM (NOT the normal fast boot feature in the bios feature settings) which should be located somewhere in the Memory/RAM related options in the bios. If it exists, deactivate it - it can interfere with memory detection and cause boot failures. Edit: The setting is called "memory boot mode" in my Gigabyte BIOS. For me it's essential to boot up properly - if not it can take an eternity to get the system to post and unfortunately it's on by default even if I restore fail save defaults.
  12. Well, that would mean you'd overclock the memory which means that it might crash with a bluescreen or other instabilities but without a voltage increase you won't damage your RAM permanently.
  13. Offset works fine for my i5 4690k. But the correct value isn't obvious because the stock VCore (or the offset) might show the wrong value in the BIOS. For me it said that the stock voltage was at 1.080v but I had to increase offset to +0.060v to get to 1.210v max voltage which obviously doesn't quite add up. It's 100% stable, tho, even for AVX workloads.
  14. Hans Power

    New Motherboard

    This ASUS board is appearently also an excellent choise - at least according to Buildzoid who is the authority to go with when it comes to mainboard evaluations:
  15. Hans Power

    i5 9600K RTX2060 / i5 8400 RTX2070

    Hmm, when I bought the MSI RTX 2070 Armor I actually bought it for the cooler/fan design. Thing is - the cheaper 2060s (350-360€) either had bad IO or a rather terrible cooler design and the good 2060s were all way above 400€. At the same time I could get the MSI 2070 Armor for 500€ (among the cheapest 2070s) and what I got was a massively overbuild board and a cooler with dual ball bearings for high longevity + a 0 RPM fanmode (not a given with RTX cards anymore) and my particular model is even a great overclocker. Since the fans are usually the part which breaks first the fan bearings are always the thing I concider most. If a manufacturer doesn't advertise with Ball Bearings or Fluid-Dynamic bearings they usually use sleeve bearings and those aren't great - some of them have a MTBF of only 20.000 hrs and that might get you through the warranty but not far beyond that before the fan gets unbearably noisy - especially if the cooler design is also crap so that the fans often spin at a high RPM of ~2000RPM.
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