Glennieboyyy007

sometimes some sata connections get turned of when specific pcie lanes are used (mostly for M.2). try a different sata port on your mobo

Samsung

So before this gets lost into oblivion, I did maintain this build to incoorporate dual-240 mm radiator with an unobstructed rear intake. I also changed out the feet of the original Ncase M1 so that the case can exhaust air through the bottom more effectively. Furthermore, I did also make custom cables for all the components so that there is significantly less clutter in the PSU area so that the drain port can be accessed better.
 
2 x Hardware Labs GTS 240 mm radiators. The bottom has 15 mm Noctua Fans, and are set in exhaust. I had to redo a lot of the tubing and also in the meantime ran out of black fittings, so you see the random nickel fitting on the left.

 
View of the rear side. While the custom length cables are easier in terms of being the right length, they are stiffer and so I had to resort to a bit of a janky routing behind the motherboard. However the cleanly available drain port is a huge plus

 
Equally clean front, with no excess SATA power. I guess if I wanted another one in future I would have to remake this cable, no biggie. You can also see my temperature probe on the left port as the other one I put in died shortly after moving.

 
Top view. The D5 pump and CPU block was replaced by a Eisbaer Solo LT. It really isn't powerful enough to be fully automonous in this kind of build. I in fact had to use a D5 pump/res to fill the system and then splice it out. Even after that there was a bit of air that you can see has accumulated in the top of this tubing. As this is a reservoir-less loop, I suppose that was to be expected. In future I could plumb in a smaller LT pump/res or just a T-valve up there so that I can remove this last bit of air.
 
Not immediately clear from the photo but I have a fan in the rear and intake just to balance some pressure and provide some minimal airflow to the board. Also I got a ARGB strip so that I could get rid of the bulky controller. Fans are also upgraded to Noctua A12x25 on exhaust. As an additional note, I had to move the power plug to the central position to clear the radiator and make space for the rear intake fan.

Use HWMonitor or MSI Afterburner to monitor usage. Task Manager numbers can be deceiving.
 
If you see the same there, do you have 1 or 2 CPU threads with high usage (100%) and the others lower? I do not recall how multi-threaded GTA V is, but this could be a CPU bottleneck due to low multi-threading support.

Depends on the need/budget. 

yes. junction temperature is a safety measure to prevent components from dying because of to much heat (meaning it's a setting kind of)

no problem. Juist they won't run on their 3200Mhz, rather only up to 2133Mhz. 

Ah, here we go again
 
From those two I'd always get the Corsair, even if it was just for the support, which is very nice. 
 
Edit: explaination, I've had an original H100 in the past. Then a couple years later it died but wasn't available anymore, so Corsair just send me their highest End Unit as a replacement. I also had one of their PSUs that died and then again, they gave me a top notch new one basically without asking questions. 

a 6th gen cpu will definitely work on a z270 mobo, the other way around will need a bios update.
So in your case it will work.
also if you go to the manufacturers page for the mobo it will definitly stand there as well

what are the specs of your previous build? did you disable v-sync? did you plug the fans into the correct plugs on your mobo?

The Corsair K95 and K70 have always seemed large to me, I have L-XL hands and I own the K70.

Depends on the game and graphic settings. I have a 1070 and I can get 144fps in some games, while in others I get 60-70fps. Your best bet would be the 2080 ot 2080ti to maximize the return on FPS at the highest available settings. 

Thanks brother. That helped a lot. Everything is working perfectly now! I hope you guys have a good one. If I knew you beer would be on me!

download the internet driver for your motherboard onto a usb stick and stick that into your new pc. i had the same problem and that solved it for me

Of course, but that part wasn't mentioned in the original post, so I was working with the info given and coming up with a solution based on what they said.
I often make the incorrect assumption that everyone has multiple PCs like I do, and this sort of thing doesn't come up, but I've run across posts here where their only system is the one they just built.
 
But yes, you are totally correct, download from another system if they have access to one

It finally happened.

Progress...
 





 

Powder coating is finished ...
 

So shiny
 

Get a used GTX 1080 or 1080 Ti instead lf the 2070.

MSI Optix G24/27C and Samsung 24/27CFG70/73, as they use VA panels rather than TN

i have a course about computer networking. it's kind of the same as your second part. the book i have has 800 pages explaining the layers and some security and wireless stuff.
it's called: computer networking A top-down approach. i have the 7th edition, but the sixth is still very viable. here is a link to an pdf of it

next time you get an BSOD, check the error code! the we know how to fix the BSOD.
however, did you OC anything, maybe that's the problem

you can do both! so feel free to choose what looks best to you