AlfaProto

it's not a F scew so it should have IGPU.. remove the GPU and plug monitor cable in the mainboard and try again. 
 

First of all you cant boot the motherboard (PC) with only the 24 pin power connected to motherboard, you'll need to connect the 4 pin as well. Secondly your motherboard dosen't have a CMOS battery installed of the type CR2032:

 

UPS is the only solution, other than just having frequent backups of anything important on separate storage.

Install the M.2 and leave the motherboard heatsink off. Or exchange the SSD for one without a heatsink built in.

Here's what a 4-pin fan header look like, it doesn't matter if its AMD or Intel, just the pin-out matters.
 
3-pin, the Control is missing.

 
Some link(s) to read
https://www.cgdirector.com/3-pin-vs-4-pin-pc-case-fans/
 

 
In layman terms:

With 4-pin, there's a pulse (Control), which is turning your fan on/off very fast. The voltage supplied is still 12VDC.
 
With 3-pin, there's no pulse (Control). Your fan is running at full speed. The voltage supplied is still 12VDC.

However, some boards do have DC control mode for very specific fan header(s). This means there's a voltage regulator, if you wanna run your fan at lower speed, the voltage supplied will be lower, say 5V. This will lower the fan speed.
 
I'm not sure about your fan hub. It looks like there are 2 connectors, likely one of them is 4-pin and the other is extra power supply.

3-pin fans use a different method of control, instead of applying a digital signal the controller just changes the input voltage of the fan. This method is also supported by 4-pin fans.
Fan control will still be automatic, as long as the controller is connected to the motherboard.

yes, but the PWM signal will not work. so you must set the fanspeed using the old method.
should still work though.

Summary
Nvidia App is basically a merge of GeForce Experience and a modernised Nvidia Control Panel all in one package.
 
Quotes
 
My thoughts
Finally, after all these years, and maybe pressure from Nvidia users due to the fact that AMD has modernised their app, Nvidia decided to pull the trigger and modernised their Nvidia Control Panel.
 
This new app is now 2-in-1 package, rather than having 2 different apps.
 

 

Since this is in beta, there are some missing features. The entire Display section found in the Control Panel is missing.
 
Plus, this basically upgrades the GeForce Experience app.
 
Sources
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/geforce/news/nvidia-app-beta-download/
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/software/nvidia-app/

Summary
Nvidia App is basically a merge of GeForce Experience and a modernised Nvidia Control Panel all in one package.
 
Quotes
 
My thoughts
Finally, after all these years, and maybe pressure from Nvidia users due to the fact that AMD has modernised their app, Nvidia decided to pull the trigger and modernised their Nvidia Control Panel.
 
This new app is now 2-in-1 package, rather than having 2 different apps.
 

 

Since this is in beta, there are some missing features. The entire Display section found in the Control Panel is missing.
 
Plus, this basically upgrades the GeForce Experience app.
 
Sources
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/geforce/news/nvidia-app-beta-download/
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/software/nvidia-app/

Summary
Nvidia App is basically a merge of GeForce Experience and a modernised Nvidia Control Panel all in one package.
 
Quotes
 
My thoughts
Finally, after all these years, and maybe pressure from Nvidia users due to the fact that AMD has modernised their app, Nvidia decided to pull the trigger and modernised their Nvidia Control Panel.
 
This new app is now 2-in-1 package, rather than having 2 different apps.
 

 

Since this is in beta, there are some missing features. The entire Display section found in the Control Panel is missing.
 
Plus, this basically upgrades the GeForce Experience app.
 
Sources
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/geforce/news/nvidia-app-beta-download/
https://www.nvidia.com/en-my/software/nvidia-app/

I didn't pick the PSU this is a used PC I bought for christmas that stopped working and of all the things it could be I know I definatly need a new case as the one I'm currently using is badly damaged, I thought it was cosmetic only but it's actually causing problems. The simple fix would be to get a refund but I'm a idiot who bought it from a guy from facebook. This was my2nd gaming pc  and I didn't know much about parts besides recently learning about gpu's to make sure I didn't get a shit one like the first pc I bought years ago, I'm the sucker youtubers use as examples in there videos to beware of buying junk lmao. Thank you for the mobo link I do like mini cases but don't care if it fit in the HP case I just wanted to make sure one of the 2 cases I had would work before I attempt to move everything over. Thanks for replying man been posting a lot of questions trying to troubleshoot this pc on here/reddit/facebook and not getting many responses or help so I really really appreciate you replying 🙂

No, the HP case won't fit your B550-A Pro, it mATX case versus ATX.

Plus, I don't get why you have a no-name brand 1000W PSU, which is also overkill.
 
If you want to fit into that HP case, you should use this motherboard. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-A520M-PLUS-Motherboard-DisplayPort/dp/B0997N7P12/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3T7VJJM2SWXLI&keywords=X570m&qid=1707754191&sprefix=x570+matx%2Caps%2C428&sr=8-13

Except, you can get certified SATA Enterprise drive (which also works in consumer desktop, no need molex to SATA) about 8-14TB for US$90 more than new 3-4TB HDD.
 
You do know that in some other countries, they have slower ethernet connection and worst, capped (once exceed the cap, ISP charged you more), hoarding games is better than downloading 100GB+.
 
Even if you are working, you are using that 8TB+ storage as local storage project, before sending it to your NAS.
 
Once again, even if you're gaming, your still limited by your network.
This is like saying everyone shouldn't get AMD's B-series board (which is the most useless chipset from AMD).

I mean, hdds are still faster than most internet connections are these days, and playing games off of one sure beats deleting and reinstalling random games that you rarely play.

970 Evo is a PCIE 3.0 drive.
 
https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-970-evo-nvme-m-2-1tb-mz-v7e1t0bw/
 
It's perfectly normal.
 
Plus, it's always good to read the motherboard manual and know which M.2 slot to populate.

The PCIe 3.0 x8 will cut around 4% FPS, from it. 
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-pci-express-scaling/27.html

not great, not terrible. 

you can just use that PCIe switch, and have 5 more M.2 PCIe 3.0 x2, you could use that adapter only if you need that PCIe 3.0 x4 for second SSD. 
 

Except, unlike Intel, which is a true chipset maker, AMD isn't very straight forward with their datasheet.

Intel published their datasheet slightly more detail:
 

 
Intel at least shows that they have a dedicated PCIE lanes for the SSD. Meaning if you installed a PCIE 3.0 GPU and PCIE 4.0 SSD, each of them runs at their own specified max speed & specs.
 
And using my own mobo as a reference:

 
With AMD, anyone could straight up assume that they are all tied together, from the 'datasheet' and block diagram.

I own both MX500 1TB (OS drive, M.2, this is second PC) and 2 870 Evo 4TB (Game and Scratch disk), so far, I have 0 issues with it.
 
It doesn't matter which connection is it using, it's all based down to RNG.

Most of the links you've provided seems to be they are using them in homelabs or NAS or cache drive--outside their recommended usage. There is one outlier is Samsung drive had a bad batch, which fails prematurely in 2021 or manufactured within 2021.
 
Avoid BX500, they are MX500 but without DRAM and likely cheaper controller.

And QLC NAND in 500GB and up
https://www.techpowerup.com/ssd-specs/#BX500

like, they were never the same as MX500, they always had worst controller, always were DRAMless, and now they are getting QLC NAND.
 

Looks like a controller swap, not QLC. Still a fast ssd, and you likely won't notice the difference between any of these drives in normal use.
 
 

You've installed your SSD wrongly. That 'nut' is merely the stand off.

Use a piler and carefully unscrew the stand off.

It's meant to have been screwed in between the screw and the standoff. Looks like it was bent downwards, held between the standoff and motherboard.

Remove the standoff.

I think you need to reflash the bios chip externally.
 
Plus, I don't know the age of that board. I had 2 MSI board, Z77 and Z170 for 3 years, and they all failed after a day after their 2-3 years warranty period is up, and the best part: I didn't OC my CPU at all.

The two to seven days before, it randomly default my settings for no reason--display a warning on a cold boot.
 
Side note:
 
Since it's 1st gen AMD, have you tried even more JEDEC spec (no XMP profile at all, it literally runs at that speed and timings) memory, like 2.133 GT/s sticks instead?

Appreciate the replies. 
Evidently mSATA drives in 1tb are scarce and expensive. The best option looks the be a Samsung 860 Evo. 
 
But then i ran across a Reddit article that talked about the Samsung Portable T5 SSD which is available in 2tb and uses a mSATA card. Basically you just gut the card out of the T5 and drop it into the mSATA adapter housing. 
 

Yea I've noticed that "gaming motherboards" are usually just marking bs and best an ignored term