KarathKasun

Work backwards, OP has 8gb of RAM.

You will need NVFlash 5.206.0.1, just tested, it works.
 
You need to put NVFlash and KBT in a folder with an easy name on the C drive as you will be using command prompt to read/flash the bios.
 
Run CMD as administrator
cd\(name of folder where nvflash is)
run "nvflash --save keplerstock.rom"
 
leave CMD open and switch to a file explorer window
navigate to your folder
copy keplerstock.rom and change the copies name to keplermod.rom
edit keplermod.rom with KBT.
 
Set memory speed in the first tab
Set fan max speed to 100 is the first tab
set the first two entries in the voltage tab to 1212.0mv - 1212.0mv and 1212.0mv - 1212.0mv
in the power table tab set the "max" settings for each entry to double the "def" value.
save to keplermod.rom
 
back to cmd...
run nvflash --protectoff
run nvflash keplermod.rom
reboot and cross your fingers
 
With a reference voltage regulator you will be stuck at 1.212v without hardware mods (voltage is driver locked).
This will give you a maximum power limit in Afterburner of 200%
This MAY result in ~1200 core clocks.  It is NOT worth the risk for 50mhz.  50mhz will NOT change your gaming experience.

Technically the "goods" are licenses, not games/software.
 
You OWN the license, not the underlying code.  The code IS the IP.
 
Also, modern licenses are not written as perpetual.  They are written as valid until the seller says they are not.  They can be revoked at any time.

Technically the "goods" are licenses, not games/software.
 
You OWN the license, not the underlying code.  The code IS the IP.
 
Also, modern licenses are not written as perpetual.  They are written as valid until the seller says they are not.  They can be revoked at any time.

Doom FPS problems are caused by 3gb VRAM.

If we see 12-16 cores in mainstream by the end of this year, that price will go down.  It will be an i5 at that point.

Nothing you can currently buy is going to have a good resale in a few years.

You could look up Voultar on YouTube. I don’t think anyone is as good as this guy.
 
 
You may not be able to fix it though. You can’t just get a new PCB as they vary depending on the game. You’d have to find someone that already has a pcb layout design of this exact game. I believe all the game data itself actually exists on the black chips though.
 
In my opinion, this isn’t worth fixing unless you just want to do it for a fun project and have soldering skills.
 
This may be really hard to do if you don’t have a proper desoldering tool. These things are pretty small. (If you do it, don’t use lead-free solder, use flux, clean with isopropyl, and don’t use hot glue.) a soldering iron in the 40-60w range would be good for this project.
 
My recommendation is to try to clean the corrosion with isopropyl and maybe electronic contact cleaner. What I’m afraid of is that the game got wet and was powered on which could have fried at least one of the chips, rendering it useless. It sure looks like it could have happened. If you look under the main ROM (the biggest black chip) there does appear to be some charring and the solder joints on the bottom right don’t look quite right. Maybe it looks different in person.
 
On the plus side, it does look like you got an original copy of the game and not a bootleg based on the board I see there.
 

Use the YouTube search feature.
 
You can NOT do multi-layer boards with simple at home tools though.

That requires equipment that costs a decent amount of money.
 
The practice soldering will be its own reward TBH.

No.  That is not going to help that cartridge.  You will, with almost 100% certainty, have to disassemble the chips from the board and repair the PCB.

Unsolder all of the parts, remove the solder mask over damaged traces, solder down wire where the tracks. are damaged.  Once everything tests good, re-solder the chips back onto the board.

You will, at minimum, need a new battery.  At most you will need to neutralize the corrosion and patch up any broken traces with wire and solder.

You will, at minimum, need a new battery.  At most you will need to neutralize the corrosion and patch up any broken traces with wire and solder.

They are not qualified on performance, they are qualified on compatibility, features, and stability.

Yeah, just like you can run x8/x8 with a PCIe 1.0/2.0 card and PCIe 2.0/3.0 card in the same system with both cards at their native link speeds.  PCIe negotiates link speed on a per-device basis.

Thermal pads have silicone grease in them, and that stuff can creep over time if they are cheap pads.
 
Look at the core in image 4, the thermal paste was not 100% covering the core when the cooler was removed.

No.  Look at the dry ring around the core.  Good coverage does not leave a gap like that with any thermal paste.  On a GPU you want 100%+ coverage, as there is no heat spreader.

The thermal paste was not covering the whole core.  It is likely a core failure due to excessive hot-spot temps.

Use Linux, that will tell you if its hardware or software.

Bearings are not everlasting and will eventually fail.  Good fans can last 6-10 years.

Bearings are not everlasting and will eventually fail.  Good fans can last 6-10 years.

It could be invalid output of the shader compiler for some reason, or maybe a timing problem.  I know that some motherboards implement HPET/system timer in non-standard ways, perhaps this is part of it?  Maybe it is a result of variation in timing from oscillators on GPU/MB caused by EMI.

I returned the device to the shop and ordered two USB 3.0 enclosures. They will arrive tomorrow
I also cancelled my Amazon order.
 
Thanks for all the help!

No, what I am saying is that the drives do not use the USB connection.  With the adapter you just end up with a USB3 extension cable and no drives.