Offline Research Kangaroo

Can you revisit coil whine and how both psu and gpu choice combined affects it? Currently im trying to figure out a formula for buying hardware to have little to no coil whine. I dont have access to enough different hardware to check with. - It seems to help to buy a higher tier gpu than needed and run it at 70-90% power limit, slightly undervolt it and potentially even overclock it rather than underclocking it. (for some reason overclocking while powerlimiting it reduces coil whine but needs more testing and why, while underclocking it seems to sometimes increase coil whine instead?) - Lower end psu's combined with gpus that normaly had no coil whine will suddenly make them both have coil whine. But what part of the psu makes it coil whine to avoid buying a high end psu with the specific low end coil whine part or why does this happen?

mb i thought i wrote it broke in 2020 here but instead i just said a few months later. by the time it broke the second time it had alredy gone past 2 years so still wouldnt work but ok still tho point of post being to warn others to not buy vertagear stuff if they dont wanna hassle with support

You are missunderstanding a lot of stuff tbh. Seems you didnt real it fully understanding it. Bought it from overclockers uk. (they wouldnt do anything) The second breakdown happened between 2 and 3 years after i bought it, if the laws state 2 years then that doesnt apply either way?? You say they stopped responding to me but i could just start a new ticket and they would talk again, so it seemed as if they had a garbage system where if nothing happens after x time the mails just moves itself to solved which every other company seem to have, repeat new ticket every 6 months or so with sllow email chains trying to get a solution every time with info moving Theres nothing i can do in regards to laws on my own anyway and a lawyer would want 100$ to even speak to me. The resale value of the chair would be maybe max 300$ and probably cost 500$ for the lawyers time. Norway is not completely part of eu so i dont think theres anything i can do other than lawyers. Half the point of this thread is so that other people dont buy vertagear garbage without knowing the support doesnt work.

looked into it a little bit, looks to me it only applies to within 2 years where this happened a bit after 2 years so that wouldnt work. even if it was within the time, a lawyer is expensive af here and wouldnt be worth talking to for the value the chair would be worth used.

Its dusty because they have been put in storage after getting no responses for 2 years. i aint got space in my house for this garbage. I have tried looking for a new chair for a long time but i seem to have a set of requirements that no specific chair has all of them from what i found so far. One requirement being a neck rest that actually is a proper neck rest, and another being arm rests that doesnt interfere with table heights or piano keyboard distance to me. Cant really think of anything else right now tho im legit considering something silly like this https://www.mobelringen.no/stresslessr-reno-office-kontorstol-212120001

Bought a Triigger 350 Special Edition chair in 2018, its seat mechanism broke in 2019, and i got a replacement sent to me after a month. The new chair broke in 2020 the exact same way. Contacted them again and after a long email chain figuring out the problem and sharing info, they were going to send but that they didnt have stock of the part while complaining about their EU office being shut down. I waited 3 months and heard nothing, so i emailed them in the same email chain a couple times over the span of the next 3 months, and they never responded. I then opened a new email support ticket via their website where they responded, went throught all the information again, again got told they were sending me something and to wait for shipping number but heard nothing, again sent a follow up and heard nothing. Repeat 2 more times. Latest attempt in january/february. So they either cant send anything because of their eu office being a problem or they just dont want to send out support replacements anymore. It seems it went crashing down after they lost their eu office. For reference, im like 90kg and there was no usage reason for why the chair broke, it just seems like low quality parts or part defects they dont want to take responsibility for. https://www.vertagear.com/products/triigger-line-350-special-edition-gaming-chair I tried repairing it but since it broke in the same place on both chairs, its not really possible. Its more or less just a bolt snapped that tilted the chair and seems to have slightly deformed parts inside the seat mechanism.

Been playing a bit now and it seems that cod sounds is acting similar as it was with my mmx300 so i think im good hopefully thanks. i think the double layering effects is what borkd it, not sure why they decided it was a good idea to have that setting on default

i think maybe i found the issue...? direct mode was off so i think it tried to artificially make 3d sound which somewhat interfered with cod's 3d version of its sound? altho idk what im talking about, all i know is that things sound atleast a little bit more like normal now.

* EDIT * im pretty sure i fixed it, turned on direct sound setting as shown in pictures below as it seems cod and this program was conflicting with eachothers sound profiles and it seems i can now hear directions again. ---------- I had beyerdynamic MMX 300 headset before on its own, but it broke. So i replace it with beyerdynamic DT 1990 Pro and Sound BlasterX G6 soundcard/dac/amp combo. Now its difficult to tell the direction sounds come from in cod mw and i cant tell why? *I can tell obvious left and right but i cant tell behind me from in fornt of me, or under or over anymore, or even distance is sometimes difficult. I have installed the program/driver that came with the soundcard, called Sound Blaster Command, and been trying to change some settings altho i have no idea what is what but so far i havent found anything that really changes the issue. Is it the headphones or is it the sound blaster soundcard? Note that i have tried all the soundcard settings off and on and it doesnt change much. i like the headphones so i wanna keep it if i can make them sound more like the old headset, but dt1990 is open back vs mmx300 is closed back so i know it cant be the same but i dont expect it to, i just want to solve this directional issue. For reference The mmx300 comes with its own soundcard on its cable and plugs into the motherboard 3.5 port While this new headset into 3.5 port on soundcard and then the card plugged in with usb to the mobo.

well yes sure something like that, i still dont have the knowledge of how to do it and i heard you need to do soldering or something to get it done.

I have logitech powerplay mousemat and a logitech g903 mouse. They all have a issue where the mouses both left and right click double clicks randomly for some reason and im not technical/knowledgeable enough nor do i have time to learn how it works and how to fix it. i know there are plenty of videos on youtube and stuff about it though. Im very much considering just paying someone who know what they are doing to mod the mouse so that it permanently stops having the double clicking issues so i can actually use my favorite mouse. I would expect this mod to be a quality job that will last. For reference, i live in norway so highly preferably someone local but i think id be fine with anyone elsewhere and just mailing it (altho shipping might be expensive?) I really dont know what else i can do at this point?? I've had 4 logitech g903's and they all have had double clicking problems, and apparently EVERY other logitech lightspeed mouse also has this issue so i cant just change mouse either. And Logitech is the only wireless charging company as far as i can tell. razer's version cant be used normaly outside of its charge pad, and corsair and asus only has QI charging which is useless to me(might aswell just plug it in like i do now on my g900) (Currently sleeping, will reply in ~12 hours from post creation)

i need something like this for my drinking bottle but i donno how to make ltt see it tbh, idk where else to post. I dont know how possible it is to have it insulated with a drinking straw like the pic but it would be great.

I just thought i should add this here for possible info https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/variable_refresh.htm#g-sync The way i understand g sync working is that it doesnt matter if the game runs at higher fps than the refreshrate iirc reading from that link. So having to limit the games refresh doesnt really make sense and so the tearing ur getting might be from some other source i have no knowledge of. *side note that i have a pg348q 100hz gsync monitor and all my games are running at way over 100fps and i havent seen any tearing at mine, and im extremely sensitive to fps loss and tearing.

(I need help choosing a monitor and understanding what some of these specs are because after doing what research i manage to do, i still cant understand a lot of this with a brain disability) So i currently run Asus pg348q (100hz 3440x1440) as my main middle monitor. Also got a couple Asus pg279q (165hz 2560x1440) as my side monitors for reference. I decided a while ago i cant handle the 100hz anymore and need a upgrade. Have mostly been waiting for ASUS PG35VQ (200hz 3440x1440) for years now but it seems to have a couple of problems im not sure if i can handle or turn off. There are also acer x34p 120hz (1200$) option but i dont feel like 1200$ is worth 20hz more but will likely be the route i go if no other options currently good enough. And there is a LG 34GN850-B 160hz (1300$) "gsync compatible" but not having properly g sync seems a dealbreaker but its on the list of possibilities. - Upgrading simply because i need 160hz+ on my ultrawide. - For mostly productivity & gaming (minor photoshop, youtube/twitch watching, webbrowser, writing text docs, games like cod, starcraft, fh4*, minecraft. - I cant/shouldnt go 4k or 1080p (stick to 1440p in various wideness but prefer 3440x1440) - i dont think i really care about hdr but it could be nice sometimes maybe? - I believe i need gsync, always had it since it came out and its been amazing. - Obviously i wanna spend as little money as possible but the only real options are 1600$ and 3000$ as far as i can tell. ASUS PG35VQ - 200hz 3440x1440 - Price: ~3000$ - Apparently asus & acer have a flickering problem according to https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/573868/x35-flickering#latest However im not sure if i understand it correctly but is the flickering issue coming from a feature called "pwm"? and can that be turned off? what happens if i turn it off? link to "pwm" https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects - Light bleed(bloom) around bright objects due to FALD but can turn it off but lose HDR and a lot of color contrast. + Asus has a built in audio amp, i dont know how useful itll be for me but its there i guess if i wanna use it (i know very little about audio) ACER X35 & AOC AG353UCG - 200hz 3440x1440 - Price: ~3400$ - Acer doesnt have "smart control" on its built in fan which makes a really annoying fan that ramps up & down loudly so ill avoid acer i think, acer also isnt available right now for some reason so it doesnt matter? - AOC AG353UCG doesnt seem to have good availability and costs 400$ more than asus right now and i cant find much info on it so im *guessing* asus is a better option(?) *Acer and AOC are both priced at 400$ more than asus currently for me while i believe they are specced for and released at 2000$ so not worth?* Samsung Odyssey C49G95T - 240hz 5120x1440 - Price: ~1600$ - Doesnt have gsync, only "gsync compatible" which technicaly doesnt mean anything and might not even do much at all since nvidia brands good gsync monitors as "gsync certified" - Has wider than prefered resolution so some games might be played in windowed mode to avoid too much performance loss (untested?) and fullscreening anything on it takes up the whole space losing a lot of the monitor space and may be a bit difficult to use but i never tried so i dont know for sure. - According to comments in https://www.overclock3d.net/news/gpu_displays/samsung_s_odyssey_c49g95t_curved_display_is_a_49-inch_5120x1440_240hz_monster/1 this monitor cant run 240hz at 5120x1440 which i dont know how to validate if true or not? and if i cant run that spec then what do i do/how does it work? - Its possible its bordering too heavy for my ergotech freedom monitor arms but i dont know for sure yet. TLDR! - i think i wanna buy the ASUS PG35VQ monitor for higher refreshrate, but it has issues like flickering and fald lightbleed and pwm flickering which i need to know if i can get rid of without really bad consequences to be happy with it. Its also 2x the price of any other option that exists which i dislike. *or Samsung Odyssey C49G95T if non g sync module works ok and extra wide works ok for half price not dealing with fald/pwm/hdr *or LG 34GN850-B if non g sync module works but extra wide doesnt work *or Acer X34p if no other option works * maybe i could theoretically go with something like LG 38GL950G (175hz 3840x1600 2500$) but i cant tell if it has gsync v1 or v2 module (since it has higher res than i need but not too high, has gsync v2(?) module from what i can tell, is still 160hz+ and doesnt seem to have fald and flickering problems) * if you know any future monitors in the spec range of around 3440+x1440 160hz+ with gsync certification or gsync module i want to know about it

thanks for confirming you have the same gpu without issues, that tells me more closely that its a card issue specific to my card and makes me more hopeful for a succesful rma after much hassle but we'll see. i tried every single graphics setting meaning rtx on or off doesnt matter as i put in original post text but yeah it doesnt make sense as for overheating, definetely not a problem. for clocks i didnt check any and dont really know how to but i tried once to use msi afterburner to change sliders around to see if it did anything but every slider made it crash still, even the simple ones that shouldnt do anything so i kinda doubt theres anything there being issues.

unless theres something in windows, battlenet, geforce experience(not open but installed for driver), or cod itself causing any problems, no. i fresh install every time

as text says, i tried on 3 seperate pcs with all different parts so i alredy tested for hardwar combinations also completely fresh installed windows with only cod and latest nvidia driver every time. its been a problem since a month or 2 after cod came out i forgot to put in original text

Im thinking maybe i can tell the retailer that if i buy another card of the same type and the new card works fine to take that as proof that the card is bad? idk if that works i dont have enough knowledge of it. atleast doing this will tell me for sure wether cod is broken or my card is broken - also i dont understand how a game can cause the pc to comlpetely crash restart * forgot to add that im using a 980ti currently and it works fine

My asus 2080ti ROG-STRIX-RTX2080TI-O11G-GAMING (not overclocked) crashes in cod but only cod, every other game etc i tried seems fine. I can usualy play for 1-4 minutes before it either crashes by giving me the standard modern warfare error code 6068, or just completely crash the pc where all monitors go black, the cpu and or gpu fan (?didntcheck) starts running at 100% until i manualy press the powerbutton to restart the pc. (90% chance of giving error code, 10% of crashing the pc) Have tried every single graphics setting on the game, all lowest, all highest, mixed, rtx on and off, fullscreen, borderless, windowed. I tried this card alone on multiple pcs with every part different including fresh reinstalled windows ssd's (fx8350, i7 5960x, 9900k) + different monitors: asus pg348q + asus pg278q (1 monitor connected at a time) I returned it to the retailer and they said they tested furmark and 3dmark and so said there was nothing wrong with the card and they wont refund me it for being faulty and so im basicly wondering if there is something wrong with my card or if COD just simply doesnt want to play with any 2080ti or my specific model or something. have tried googling the issue and havent found anyone else having the crash issue with 2080ti and cod that i have. (Side note, i tried to use msi afterburner to see if there could be something i could do in there to fix the issue, but changing any of the setting in there just made the pc crash/shutdown every time after starting cod 1 min into the game no matter what setting i changed, even the settings that shouldnt even do anything. did not check any other games while messing with msi afterburner though.) *edit* forgot to add... im currently using a 980ti on cod and it works perfectly stable, altho ill have to run it at min specs and get low fps so that makes me sad This has been a problem ever since a month or 2 after cod came out. so it was working fine for the first month. Update; called the retailer, they said they will take it back in for testing specifically in cod and try to find out what the issue is so that i know if i need to buy a new different card or if its actually faulty or whatever

still need help to wether or not i can disable this bs

Every time i hit alt to make symbols like alt+2 = @ i also hit the key next to it FN and it messes something up every time requiring a restart of armoury 2 program or pc or resetting armoury altogether - How do i disable FN key or change it to not do random shortcut bs or whatever its doing i dont even know... @asus if i wanted to change stuff i would change stuff and not with 2 keys right besides eachother so i hit them both every time... theres a reason ctrl + alt + del are far away from eachother right now symbols like @ doesnt even work anymore cos whatever it did alt doesnt do what alt does anymore

fair enough guys ty for the infos. will consider for next time but for now just didnt feel like messing around with it anymore. wasnt a big refund anyway

gg just refunded

Anyone got more suggestions?

in the video you can see the cpu cooler isnt clamped on, its just loose put on it