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Navic

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    @NavicNick

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas, USA

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 1600
  • Motherboard
    MSI A320M BAZOOKA
  • RAM
    HyperX FURY 16GB
  • GPU
    Nvidia ASUS Dual series 1060 6GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define Mini C
  • Storage
    SanDisk 240GB & Seagate BarraCuda 1TB 7200RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair CX550M
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB241H
  • Cooling
    Stock Case Fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G810
  • Mouse
    Logitech G903
  • Sound
    Logitech G430 & Logitech Z333
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Home

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  1. So I should be fine if I run the 2080, and I dont have to worry about damage to the card/psu/any other component connected to the PSU?
  2. Could you explain what "dual forward" means, and if it is a problem and shouldn't run my 2080 on the PSU?
  3. It didn't sound like it was coming from the VRMs though, just where the power connectors are. Could there be something there that could be causing the whine? I also think it's good to mention that it didn't sound like typical coil whine, as it seemed way too loud to me, louder than anything else in my system. Could I still run the 2080s safely even with that noise?
  4. I have a Corsair CX550M power supply that is 80+ Bronze certified. I have had problems with this power supply (I'm on my third power supply of this variant now) in that the fan would make a lot of noise, like it was hitting the grill or osmething inside, so I'm used to it having problems. My current one has gone on for about one and a half years without problems, powering my OC Ryzen 5 1600 (3.8GHz @ 1.325V (I think)) and a 1060 6GB. I decided to get an EVGA 2080 super XC, but when I plugged it into my system and started up a CSGO FPS benchmark, I heard a really loud and concerning whine coming from where the PSU cables connect to the GPU. Is this because the PSU can't handle the 2080s, or that there is something wrong with the card? Questions welcome to get to a solution.
  5. @Alexsolo So I cloned my hard drive to my new SSD and expanded the partition on the SSD to be the full 2TB (instead of two 1TB partitions), and the drive letter is D, where my old HDD (the one I cloned) is still S, what I originally set it to. Can I just remove the HDD and leave the new SSD in have everything be fine? I used the Macrium Reflect tool if that means anything.
  6. Yeah thats my fault that I wasn't very clear. Typed it up really quickly and didn't check to see if I explained it good enough.
  7. I am moving all of the data from the HDD to the new SSD, and keeping the old 240GB SSD as my boot drive. In other words, I'm replacing my HDD. I will still have the old SSD for my boot drive (I will still have 2 drives). I will use cloning software unless copy/paste (with show hidden files on) would work, and will change the drive letter to what the old one was.
  8. Obviously I know that there are many pieces of software that make this possible, but I'm not sure about my situation. Most of the guides assume that it's just the one drive, but I have two, one ssd for my OS and some programs and a 1TB storage drive for games and other pieces of software. If I transfer all of the data from my 1TB hard drive to a new 2TB ssd, should everything work fine if I remove the 1TB hard drive and keep the 2TB ssd connected, or will I have to do other steps? Also, certain pieces of software I've ran out of downloads for the software.
  9. My motherboard (Asus ROG B450-I Gaming) has a built in WiFi and Bluetooth chip, which is nice for me because I don't have access to Ethernet where my computer is. The problem, is that every 12 seconds, the WiFi signal drops (stops downloading/uploading) for about 2 seconds, and then goes back to being normal, only for it to do the same thing 12 seconds later. I noticed this while playing Battlefield V, where everyone would stop moving for a brief moment, and once the internet decided to work again, my character would be pushed back to where they were when the internet cut out. I've re-installed the drivers for the chip (Realtek 8822BE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCI-E NIC), gone into the BIOS and disabled and then re-enabled (after a system restart) both the WiFi and Bluetooth settings and I get the same result. I've disabled just the Bluetooth setting and it's still the same problem. I've switched antennas to see if that was the problem, but it wasn't, and I still had the problem. I've updated the BIOS and reset everything to default, and the problem is still there. So how do I fix this? I don't want to have to RMA my motherboard unless I absolutely have to, and I don't know how well a USB WiFi adapter will help. Any suggestions? If the easeist way to get around this without RMAing my motherboard is a USB adapter, then please send me some good ones at a fair price.
  10. I "gamed" on a laptop keyboard (specifically a macbook air keyboard. Yes, I know, mock me later) for about 2 years, and it wasn't the best, but it was certainly usable. When I got my PC and a mechanical keyboard (the G810 from logitech) it was amazing, and it feels totally different from using a laptop keyboard. My suggestion is: if you have the space for a traditional keyboard, I would suggest going into a store and finding one that you like, and seeing if it is actually worth it for you.
  11. Okay, so I did what Nick (from Corsair I'm assuming) told me to do (mount the power supply with the fan facing up) and the noise has seemed to magically perish. I hear no clicking (which is what I head before the sound in the video) or what you heard in the video. Thank you! I will edit my post with this information, for anyone else that may have this problem in the future and come across this forum post.
  12. The power supply is mounted with the fan down. I will mount it the other way and reply with an update.
  13. Took a quick look, and everything seems to be fine. Nothing seems to be interfering with it, and dust doesn't look like it can be a factor.
  14. So this is my replacement power supply from Amazon, as the first one had the same issue, but it occurred a lot sooner (3 days after having it). This one started emitting the noise about 3 weeks after receiving the unit. What could be causing this noise? I assume this sound is originating from the fan, but I want to know how something like this could happen. Could this just my luck, or should I go with a different type of power supply/brand of power supply? The video of the noise can be found here: EDIT: So I had my power supply mounted with the fan facing down. A rep from Corsair replied to this post, telling me if that was the case, to change the orientation of the power supply, so the fan is facing up. This did work. I now hear no clicking (which is what I head before the sound in the video) or what you heard in the video. Thank you Nick from Corsair! (I'm assuming that is his name and he works for Corsair.)
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